Engine swap or rebuild.

[Antonio757]

I currently drive a 2002 Tahoe with a 5.3 engine. I’d be the first to admit I’m not an expert at this topic. I do know that it’ll probably be cheaper to rebuild what I have. So my question is what would be the better option if money wasn’t an issue. To rebuild or do a swap? Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[B-train]

Give us some more info to go off of please.
1. Current mileage
2. Overall condition- rusty, etc
3. Overall service history
4. Financial perspective
5. Any sentimental reason to keep vs just replacing with a newer and/or lower mile unit?

 

[strutaeng]

What do you mean "swap?" Like a junkyard swap? Or a crate engine swap? What is wrong with your engine?

The cheapest option is to swap a running 5.3 from the wrecking yard. Around $800-$1500. Add a premium for something larger, like a 6.0 if that's what you want. Will require a PCM reflash, then you'll probably blow up your transmission if you drive like a mad man.

My brother just got a 6.0 LQ4 overhauled he'd swap into his truck. Engine knocked and smoked when he got it running. Overhaul cost was $2500 from a local guy (0.030 overbore, new pistons, rings, cam, lifters, bearings, gaskets, etc.) I think overhaul costs are similar if overhauling any v8.

Most expensive option is probably a crate engine. $5k or more.

 

[nonickatall]

I have rebuild several engines in Germany, mostly german cars like BMW, Audi, Mercedes.

I would say the LS or LQ are very good to rebuild, because the where made for eternity, if you compare with modern shit.

All parts are available, the block is a rock, the enginge is from a tecnical view very simple, so it is absolutely a good idea to rebuild.

But as struateng and b-train correctly correctly noted, it depends on the circumstances.

What condition is the engine in, what was broken, what can you do yourself?
Do you have someone on hand who you trust will overhaul the engine well and economically?

Personally, I would remove my engine myself, disassemble it, inspect it and then see what I need.

Of course, I would have things like refinishing the cylinders done if necessary, but I can do the rest myself and could build my engine into a practical new machine with relatively manageable money.

But it takes a little experience, tools and workspace and then you have to decide for yourself, whether you should install a new oil pump, or the old one is still good. You have to make sure that all the work steps such as measuring crankshaft bearings, assembling with the correct torques, preparing the sealing surfaces and so on are carried out properly.

One mistake at such a rebuild will wreck possibly everthing.

And what the previous speakers said is also correct. It's probably best if you have the money to buy a reconditioned engine and have it installed. Then you have peace of mind and guarantee.

If the engine is in good condition and you have someone who can do it, that's also a good option.

If you don't have much budget, it might be better to get one from the junkyard and install it, but in any case it makes sense to see if the old engine needs to be replaced at all, or whether there is another problem.

So please give us more details...

 

[Antonio757]

Give us some more info to go off of please.
1. Current mileage
2. Overall condition- rusty, etc
3. Overall service history
4. Financial perspective
5. Any sentimental reason to keep vs just replacing with a newer and/or lower mile unit?

My current motor has over 371,000 miles in it and as most of these motors the lifters is ticking. I’m looking to add more power. I also have a small oil leak somewhere. As far as the service history I’ve just done the regular maintenance like, oil change, alternator, starter, water pump, rear main seal.

 

[Antonio757]

What do you mean "swap?" Like a junkyard swap? Or a crate engine swap? What is wrong with your engine?

The cheapest option is to swap a running 5.3 from the wrecking yard. Around $800-$1500. Add a premium for something larger, like a 6.0 if that's what you want. Will require a PCM reflash, then you'll probably blow up your transmission if you drive like a mad man.

My brother just got a 6.0 LQ4 overhauled he'd swap into his truck. Engine knocked and smoked when he got it running. Overhaul cost was $2500 from a local guy (0.030 overbore, new pistons, rings, cam, lifters, bearings, gaskets, etc.) I think overhaul costs are similar if overhauling any v8.

Most expensive option is probably a crate engine. $5k or more.

I currently have more than 371,000 miles on my engine. It runs strong other than the lifters knocking. I’ve replaced things like the alternator, starter, water pump, and the rear mail seal has been done before. I’m looking to add more power.

 

[B-train]

Wow! You've gotten your money worth for sure.

If I were in your shoes at that mileage, I'd look at the whole picture of the truck, not just the engine. Transmission original? Suspension original, or up for second redo? Fuel pump, lines, brakes, etc.

If it came from a salt state, then I'd probably move on and not even look back - replace with the same lower mile from a rust free area. If you do live in a rust free area, then refer to the beginning and look at the value of what you have vs trying to do.

You stated more power - do you have a second vehicle to drive while this is being modified and rebuilt? Do you have the area to cleanly do this work? Will this be a show type truck when done?

If the opposite of any of these ideas are true and it's a daily driver on a budget, then personally I'd limp it along until I found a suitable/affordable replacement and then sell it to someone who wants a project, or part it out for extra cash.

 

[strutaeng]

Good points on overall condition of the vehicle.

The other key question is what is your budget? Everyone wants to make 500 HP and only have $1000 in their bank account (me included). Well, that ain't really happening.

If you do rebuild your engine, you can bore the cylinders to LS1 5.7 size. Or go with a stroker to get a 383 out of it. Stroker requires a different crank, rods, pistons and balancing. The rotating assembly is around $1500, then add that to your standard rebuild cost.

Lastly, are you paying someone to do the work? Or are you going to DIY? That will affect the cost considerably. Have you replaced and engine before? Have you done an engine overhaul and have access to tooling? And doing this takes a good amount of time.

 

[blackelky]

I currently drive a 2002 Tahoe with a 5.3 engine. I’d be the first to admit I’m not an expert at this topic. I do know that it’ll probably be cheaper to rebuild what I have. So my question is what would be the better option if money wasn’t an issue. To rebuild or do a swap? Thanks in advance for any input.

There was an episode on trucks or horspower tv where they did a 5.3 junkyard build. I would do something along those lines. There should be a lsx specialist shop somewhere near you.

 

[Antonio757]

Good points on overall condition of the vehicle.

The other key question is what is your budget? Everyone wants to make 500 HP and only have $1000 in their bank account (me included). Well, that ain't really happening.

If you do rebuild your engine, you can bore the cylinders to LS1 5.7 size. Or go with a stroker to get a 383 out of it. Stroker requires a different crank, rods, pistons and balancing. The rotating assembly is around $1500, then add that to your standard rebuild cost.

Lastly, are you paying someone to do the work? Or are you going to DIY? That will affect the cost considerably. Have you replaced and engine before? Have you done an engine overhaul and have access to tooling? And doing this takes a good amount of time.

I’m fully committed to the whole process of redoing everything on this truck. The transmission has been rebuilt about a couple years ago. I’ll be looking to pay someone to do this job for me. I’ll be doing the brakes(21 Silverado upgrade), stainless steel brake lines, cat back exhaust(magnaflow), suspension(I already have it lifted((6” with 22”rims), cams, headers, etc. It’s my dad and I’ll make arrangements for the work to be completed one project at a time.

 

[Antonio757]

Wow! You've gotten your money worth for sure.

If I were in your shoes at that mileage, I'd look at the whole picture of the truck, not just the engine. Transmission original? Suspension original, or up for second redo? Fuel pump, lines, brakes, etc.

If it came from a salt state, then I'd probably move on and not even look back - replace with the same lower mile from a rust free area. If you do live in a rust free area, then refer to the beginning and look at the value of what you have vs trying to do.

You stated more power - do you have a second vehicle to drive while this is being modified and rebuilt? Do you have the area to cleanly do this work? Will this be a show type truck when done?

If the opposite of any of these ideas are true and it's a daily driver on a budget, then personally I'd limp it along until I found a suitable/affordable replacement and then sell it to someone who wants a project, or part it out for extra cash.

I’m fully committed to the whole process of redoing everything on this truck. The transmission has been rebuilt about a couple years ago. I’ll be looking to pay someone to do this job for me. I’ll be doing the brakes(21 Silverado upgrade), stainless steel brake lines, cat back exhaust(magnaflow), suspension(I already have it lifted((6” with 22”rims), cams, headers, etc. It’s my dad and I’ll make arrangements for the work to be completed one project at a time.

 

[S33k3r]

What are your power goals? That's going to tell you what to do about the engine block. Good luck, and please keep your project going. Maybe even start a build thread. Though my own is temporarily stalled, I have a link in my signature to it. I am *far* from done.

 

[Antonio757]

What are your power goals? That's going to tell you what to do about the engine block. Good luck, and please keep your project going. Maybe even start a build thread. Though my own is temporarily stalled, I have a link in my signature to it. I am *far* from done.

I’m not totally sure but I want enough to tow my work trailer when necessary. I’m not trying to drag race in a suv!

 

[S33k3r]

I’m not totally sure but I want enough to tow my work trailer when necessary. I’m not trying to drag race in a suv!

Honestly, unless it is a huge or super heavy trailer, you already have "enough" power for that. I want enough power, myself, to roast some tires. Not that I want to pay for roasted tired, mind you...

Take a look at your truck. If it accelerates enough now, to make you happy, look at the ratio between the weight of the truck and the power it produces. Pay attention to the entire power band! It can be really frustrating if you do not. If it doesn't make you smile -- and you want to smile -- figure out how much power that is going to take. Once again, when happy, determine your power ratio.

Next, figure out how much weight the trailer has to it, fully loaded. With your existing ratio, you can get a ballpark for the power you will want. Don't forget that your trailer will likely act as drag when towing it, so you might want to factor in a little extra OOMPH for that as well.

Once you know the power you want, look at how easy it is to get to that level with the 5.3 with forced induction or the 6.0. Don't forget the part played by gearing as well.

Then you'll know where to go next.

 

[Marky Dissod]

TL, DR: 6.0L & 4.10 or 4.30 axle.

I’m not totally sure but I want enough to tow my work trailer when necessary.

If you are serious about towing anything near the weight of your '02 Tahoe, your axle ratio(s) should be 4.10, at least.
Anything HEAVIER, seriously consider 4.30. Your 4L60E go much farther between rebuilds with either of those ratios.
What axle ratio is yours presently?

If your truck accelerates enough now, to make you happy, look at the ratio between the weight of the truck and the power it produces.
Pay attention to the entire power band! It can be really frustrating if you do not.
If it doesn't make you smile -- and you want to smile -- figure out how much power that is going to take.
Once again, when happy, determine your power ratio.

Beg to differ here; let me explain.
Had a '94 Caprice wagon (LT1). With 2.56, top speed was 130MpH.
With 3.42, top speed and/or my courage exceeded 141MpH - and it took 3.42 less time to hit 141MpH than it took 2.56 to reach 130MpH.
Very roughly speaking, the axle upgrade from 2.56 to 3.42 was worth quite a bit of power to the ground.
Sure, the upgrade from 3.42 to 4.10 or 4.30 won't be as steep as 2.56 to 3.42, but it's not just about engine power.

FYI, LT1 Caprices with 2.93 or 3.08 were rated to tow 5,000lb with the shifter locking out 4th gear in 'D'.
V4P Fleetwoods with 3.42 were rated to tow 7,000 in 'OD, all with the same LT1 5.7L V8.

Next, figure out how much weight the trailer has to it, fully loaded. With your existing ratio, you can get a ballpark for the power you will want.
Don't forget that your trailer will likely act as drag when towing it, so you might want to factor in a little extra OOMPH for that as well.

Once you know the power you want, look at how easy it is to get to that level with the 5.3L with forced induction, or the 6.0L.

Peruse the tow ratings of Suburhokonbalades with different engine and axle combos. Note how important the axle ratio is.
All that said, you'll get LOTS more bang for your buck out of a reasonably lower-mile 6.0L, than a huffnpuffn 5.3L - but superchargers are admittedly lots more fun-to-drive.

Either way, your engine will spend the vast majority of its time UNDER 3000RpM, especially since you are NOT interested in drag racing.
I still drive like an arsejack once in a while, but I don't remember the last time my engine saw 4,000RpM. Do you?

Don't forget the part played by gearing as well.

 

[S33k3r]

TL, DR: 6.0L & 4.10 or 4.30 axle.If you are serious about towing anything near the weight of your '02 Tahoe, your axle ratio(s) should be 4.10, at least.
Anything HEAVIER, seriously consider 4.30. Your 4L60E go much farther between rebuilds with either of those ratios.
What axle ratio is yours presently?Beg to differ here; let me explain.
Had a '94 Caprice wagon (LT1). With 2.56, top speed was 130MpH.
With 3.42, top speed and/or my courage exceeded 141MpH - and it took 3.42 less time to hit 141MpH than it took 2.56 to reach 130MpH.
Very roughly speaking, the axle upgrade from 2.56 to 3.42 was worth quite a bit of power to the ground.
Sure, the upgrade from 3.42 to 4.10 or 4.30 won't be as steep as 2.56 to 3.42, but it's not just about engine power.

FYI, LT1 Caprices with 2.93 or 3.08 were rated to tow 5,000lb with the shifter locking out 4th gear in 'D'.
V4P Fleetwoods with 3.42 were rated to tow 7,000 in 'OD, all with the same LT1 5.7L V8.Peruse the tow ratings of Suburhokonbalades with different engine and axle combos. Note how important the axle ratio is.
All that said, you'll get LOTS more bang for your buck out of a reasonably lower-mile 6.0L, than a huffnpuffn 5.3L - but superchargers are admittedly lots more fun-to-drive.

Either way, your engine will spend the vast majority of its time UNDER 3000RpM, especially since you are NOT interested in drag racing.
I still drive like an arsejack once in a while, but I don't remember the last time my engine saw 4,000RpM. Do you?

Well, if you are asking me, for sure. My new-to-me Duramax has a 6 inch lift, 37/13.5R18s, and 3.73 gears. I've been bummed for the past 3 years because my 6.0 wouldn't even spin my tires (it isn't tuned worth a shit). The Duramax spun its wheels. Since I want to sell the tires and rims... As soon as I broke loose, I dropped off the throttle. But the smile was so worth it.

 

[ejf2461]

I currently drive a 2002 Tahoe with a 5.3 engine. I’d be the first to admit I’m not an expert at this topic. I do know that it’ll probably be cheaper to rebuild what I have. So my question is what would be the better option if money wasn’t an issue. To rebuild or do a swap? Thanks in advance for any input.

Rebuild is a little cheaper but make sure your shop does good work. I am a police chief in Indiana and we have drove Tahoe's since 1999 so I have replaced, and rebuilt 100's of engine and transmissions. The inflation has killed the crate engine prices. less than a month ago we bought a Jasper 5.3L with DOD Delete already installed $5500 for the engine, install kit with all belts and gaskets and a diablo programmer to program the ecu since we got rid of DOD/AFM $7K out the door. About a year ago we had a 5.3 rebuilt and also did the dod delete, hotter cam, truion, springs and all new internals and a set of JBA headers with an h-pipe with new hi flo cats and flowmaster exhaust. I mainly did this because the insurance company wouldnt cover the new crate engine and the exhaust was ruined while chasing a juvenile off road. I figured while I was getting a rebuild why not add some power. In the end the rebuilt motor had about 100 more rear wheel HP than stock 284hp stock and 381hp after. We like crate motors because we need the vehicles back in service ASAP. If you need to rebuild it isnt alot cheaper and if your machine shop or installer isn't a veteran it can end badly. I don't ask price anymore just experience and referalls.