My 2022 Tahoe Bose Audio Mods

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ddubdb3

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Hey all, Great thread here! I just picked up a 2023 Tahoe Premier - 10 Speaker Bose system. Like you all I find the bass non existent so ordered up the 84877614 sub box. Looking around today peeking at the left rear quarter where this box will go just to look at mounting points etc. Come to find out there's no stock sub there? Does anyone know where the Bose sub is? Is it located in the center console? Also where are most of you tapping in to get sub signal?
 
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JimJones

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Hey all, Great thread here! I just picked up a 2023 Tahoe Premier - 10 Speaker Bose system. Like you all I find the bass non existent so ordered up the 84877614 sub box. Looking around today peeking at the left rear quarter where this box will go just to look at mounting points etc. Come to find out there's no stock sub there? Does anyone know where the Bose sub is? Is it located in the center console? Also where are most of you tapping in to get sub signal?
I have the same question. I have a 2021 Tahoe Premier with the 10 speaker Bose and I don't have a sub in the rear left quarter.

I also want to say thank you to everyone for sharing their knowledge in this thread. I am looking forward to undertaking this mod!
 

Jdsmooth

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This is an awesome thread, and thanks to all for inspiring my Subwoofer add to my 2023 Suburban RST. I have a couple of questions after reading the entire thread:

- I am thinking it would be best to use an Audiocontrol LC2i to correct the Bose bass attenuation. I’ve used this device successfully a few times in the past. What speaker leads do I want to tap? The rear speakers or the subwoofer output?
- what hardware do I need to attach the Escalade box (already ordered) to an RST with no rear sub?
- can I use a power lead in the rear of the truck as opposed to running a power line to the battery? I’m going to be using a smaller amp, maybe class D even.
- a side benefit to using the audio control LC2i is that it auto senses audio for turn on and provides and amp turn on wire.
- what grommet do I need to run the wires into the stock Escalade box?
- did everyone leave the small front console Bose sun functional after adding the rear sub? I figured I would as it would fill in the mid bass.

Thanks in advance, and once I get going I will pay it forward.
 

JimJones

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This is an awesome thread, and thanks to all for inspiring my Subwoofer add to my 2023 Suburban RST. I have a couple of questions after reading the entire thread:

- I am thinking it would be best to use an Audiocontrol LC2i to correct the Bose bass attenuation. I’ve used this device successfully a few times in the past. What speaker leads do I want to tap? The rear speakers or the subwoofer output?
- what hardware do I need to attach the Escalade box (already ordered) to an RST with no rear sub?
- can I use a power lead in the rear of the truck as opposed to running a power line to the battery? I’m going to be using a smaller amp, maybe class D even.
- a side benefit to using the audio control LC2i is that it auto senses audio for turn on and provides and amp turn on wire.
- what grommet do I need to run the wires into the stock Escalade box?
- did everyone leave the small front console Bose sun functional after adding the rear sub? I figured I would as it would fill in the mid bass.

Thanks in advance, and once I get going I will pay it forward.

I recently completed this mod on my 2021 Tahoe Premier. I did the Alpine sub with the boss audio Amp to keep the cost down. I got the box off of Ebay as a lot of the online parts sites did not have it in stock and didn't know when they would get it because of the strike. I ended up paying about $180 shipped.

I will try and answer your questions.

-LC2i - I originally skipped doing the LC2i, but ended up adding it to the mix. The bass roll-off or attenuation is pretty significant. It should be here tomorrow and I plan to hook it up this weekend.
- Speaker wire to tap - Lancecc1 posted a youtube video on page 5 of this thread that shows tapping the speaker wires in a silverado. I did exactly as they did in the video
- Hardware - There are two existing bolts on the floor behind the side panel you used to attach the box at the bottom. Then I got a few washers and nuts from Home Depot to help secure the box on the top. That was it.
- I don't know about using a power lead in the rear. I did mine from the battery as in the video. It was pretty easy to pass through the firewall and then I used fish tape to run the wires from the front to the back.
- I used the existing Grommet to run the wires in to the box. You can pop it out pretty easily and then do what you need to do with it before popping it back in. I used a drill to make the holes bigger to pass the speaker wires through.
- Yes, I left the front console sub alone.

The youtube video showed how they tapped the front fuse for the remote wire. In my Tahoe the fuse they used provides a constant 12V, which would make the amp never turn off and drain the battery over time. I ended up using a Micro3 fuse tap on fuse F26 for on/off functionality

The only other issue had was figuring out how to detach the USB wire holder from the side panel. I was afraid to break it, and it took an embarrassingly long time to figure it out, but I did.

Thanks again to everyone who shared their knowledge on doing this mod. I am not super handy and have only done one other car audio install back in 2018. So, if I can do it, you can too.
 
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ddubdb3

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You can also tap the solid yellow and yellow/black wires at the amplifier. Finished my install this past weekend. Looking at the amp while it’s mounted you’ll see the twisted yellow wires on the right connector.
 

Jdsmooth

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I recently completed this mod on my 2021 Tahoe Premier. I did the Alpine sub with the boss audio Amp to keep the cost down. I got the box off of Ebay as a lot of the online parts sites did not have it in stock and didn't know when they would get it because of the strike. I ended up paying about $180 shipped.

I will try and answer your questions.

-LC2i - I originally skipped doing the LC2i, but ended up adding it to the mix. The bass roll-off or attenuation is pretty significant. It should be here tomorrow and I plan to hook it up this weekend.
- Speaker wire to tap - Lancecc1 posted a youtube video on page 5 of this thread that shows tapping the speaker wires in a silverado. I did exactly as they did in the video
- Hardware - There are two existing bolts on the floor behind the side panel you used to attach the box at the bottom. Then I got a few washers and nuts from Home Depot to help secure the box on the top. That was it.
- I don't know about using a power lead in the rear. I did mine from the battery as in the video. It was pretty easy to pass through the firewall and then I used fish tape to run the wires from the front to the back.
- I used the existing Grommet to run the wires in to the box. You can pop it out pretty easily and then do what you need to do with it before popping it back in. I used a drill to make the holes bigger to pass the speaker wires through.
- Yes, I left the front console sub alone.

The youtube video showed how they tapped the front fuse for the remote wire. In my Tahoe the fuse they used provides a constant 12V, which would make the amp never turn off and drain the battery over time. I ended up using a Micro3 fuse tap on fuse F26 for on/off functionality

The only other issue had was figuring out how to detach the USB wire holder from the side panel. I was afraid to break it, and it took an embarrassingly long time to figure it out, but I did.

Thanks again to everyone who shared their knowledge on doing this mod. I am not super handy and have only done one other car audio install back in 2018. So, if I can do it, you can too.
Thank you for an awesome and detailed reply. I appreciate the time and effort. One last question…. Do you remember the nut size you got from Home Depot? M6 perhaps?

I’m wondering what signal the yellow twisted wires are exactly, but if it works, it works.

Will you post in this thread and let me know how the LC2i works for you? I’ve had good luck with it in these Bose systems before. I may go with the pro to get the extra tuning ability and the bass knob.

I am assembling all of my parts now, ordered the sub tonight.

Thanks again for taking the time to help!
 

JimJones

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Thank you for an awesome and detailed reply. I appreciate the time and effort. One last question…. Do you remember the nut size you got from Home Depot? M6 perhaps?

I’m wondering what signal the yellow twisted wires are exactly, but if it works, it works.

Will you post in this thread and let me know how the LC2i works for you? I’ve had good luck with it in these Bose systems before. I may go with the pro to get the extra tuning ability and the bass knob.

I am assembling all of my parts now, ordered the sub tonight.

Thanks again for taking the time to help!
You're welcome. We all should pay it forward!.

You are spot on. They were M6 nuts 1.0mm. My LC2i arrived last night. Now I just gotta find time to install.
 

Jdsmooth

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You're welcome. We all should pay it forward!.

You are spot on. They were M6 nuts 1.0mm. My LC2i arrived last night. Now I just gotta find time to install.
I think I am going to do the LC2i and the Epicenter processor. I have an Epicenter from an old install I can reuse. Ordering the LC2i now. Looking forward to hearing how it works for you. I’m thinking/hoping it will make a dramatic difference.
 

JimJones

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I think I am going to do the LC2i and the Epicenter processor. I have an Epicenter from an old install I can reuse. Ordering the LC2i now. Looking forward to hearing how it works for you. I’m thinking/hoping it will make a dramatic difference.
I just wrapped up installing my LC2i and man what a difference. before it felt like the sub was under powered and I even remember someone else making that comment. Well, its not under powered now. The thump its for real. Is it gonna wake my neighbors up coming down the block...no, but its make as serious difference. I was a little underwhelmed before adding it, but couldn't be happier now. Highly recommended for anyone looking do to this mod. My opinion is to skip the SNI-35 and just go with the LC2i.
 

kerlyb

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With the dual voice coil 4 ohm Fosgate subwoofer, which wiring is best for this setup...2 ohm or 8 ohm?
 

Jdsmooth

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Well, I got my install done today. This thread really provides everything you need for a really nice, affordable upgrade. I went with the Rockford R2 sub in the Escalade box mentioned early in this thread, the LC2i Pro and an audiocontrol Epicenter “bass restorer”. It got really cold, so I haven’t cleaned up my wiring or tuned the system, but even untuned and right out of the box, the low end is hugely improved.

I’m going to figure out the best settings on the LC2i and Epicenter and clean up my wiring over the next week. I’ll report back with my settings and the final result. Thank again to everyone who contributed to this thread.
 

iamlegion

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Unfortunately this was while they were installing it and how it looked after they finished. Once they replaced all the interior molding and trims you can't tell anything was done. You can see the JL Audio subwoofer through the factory grill a bit. The bass controller was mounted up front on the center console side cubby pockets. Very discreet! Only evidence of anything done is the sound of bass when playing music. Rumbles through the vehicle! In a nice way!
Stone - I want to do this verbatim. Some box, amp, high level converter. I don’t want to **** around shoving a sub in some other box.

my only problem is nobody on the internet is really clear what system they had and if/how they handled the noise cancellation.

i have the ~14 speaker “Centerpoint” system and from what I keep reading if you just run the stock high level inputs to an aftermarket system the OEM anc will just add noise to the sub. Did you have ANC on your ride before, and what did the installer do about it?

if you happen to know how they ran your power that would be a bonus, if not I’ll figure it out. I assume they ran from battery up front.
 

iamlegion

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FYI the JL 10TW3-D4 does not fit into the esky stock box unless you are stubborn and used to making bad decisions like I am.

The cutout diameter is 9 1/8" and the maximum size of the bezel is 11". The JL exceeds both of those dimensions but I do own a router and Dremel.

The mounting surface isn't perfectly flat either so it would be best to choose a sub that has even mounting points - unlike the JL which only effectively has four. I supplemented sealing and securing with RTV.


View attachment 396387View attachment 396388View attachment 396389

That's pretty big box, probably larger than the JL calls for but I'm of the opinion that most subs speck smaller volume boxes than ideal for marketing purposes...

Also, my vehicle amplifier was mounted with 3 M10's and one plastic push on clip which created a massive resonate vibration so be sure everything in that area is bolted down and secured properly.
Has anyone thought of fitting the 10TW1-2 in the Escalade box? The dimensions seem to line up better than the TW3.

That combo is about $625 cheaper than the JL stealth box. I bet that with any aftermarket amp is light years better than the ~6.5” Bose and still twice as good as the AKG system in the Escalade.


 

Jdsmooth

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Stone - I want to do this verbatim. Some box, amp, high level converter. I don’t want to **** around shoving a sub in some other box.

my only problem is nobody on the internet is really clear what system they had and if/how they handled the noise cancellation.

i have the ~14 speaker “Centerpoint” system and from what I keep reading if you just run the stock high level inputs to an aftermarket system the OEM anc will just add noise to the sub. Did you have ANC on your ride before, and what did the installer do about it?

if you happen to know how they ran your power that would be a bonus, if not I’ll figure it out. I assume they ran from battery up front.
I did not have ANC, I have the lower level Bose system without the rear sub or the center dash speaker. I’ve heard varying opinions on whether certain year higher end Bose systems still have ANC, but can’t really help you there.
 

Jdsmooth

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I’ve cleaned up my install, installed the bass knob and took some photos to share with the group. Thanks again to everyone for the help and guidance.
 

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K5-Z71

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Has anyone thought of fitting the 10TW1-2 in the Escalade box? The dimensions seem to line up better than the TW3.

That combo is about $625 cheaper than the JL stealth box. I bet that with any aftermarket amp is light years better than the ~6.5” Bose and still twice as good as the AKG system in the Escalade.


Don’t think that one will fit. I did not measure the mounding depth of the enclosure as it will depend on the width of the subwoofer magnet. The box follows the contour of the wheel well, shallow at the corner and sloping down towards the center.

The TW3 had to be clocked precisely so the basket straddled that contour and the magnet barely cleared it as well.
 

iamlegion

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Don’t think that one will fit. I did not measure the mounding depth of the enclosure as it will depend on the width of the subwoofer magnet. The box follows the contour of the wheel well, shallow at the corner and sloping down towards the center.

The TW3 had to be clocked precisely so the basket straddled that contour and the magnet barely cleared it as well.
I was afraid of that. I have all the stuff coming… I think when I saw past pictures where someone showed the mounting depth I foolishly assumed that was the minimum depth since that’s the obviously important measurement.

I am hoping I could use a heat gun and mold the hump down a little to make room, then fabricate a thick rubber gasket to mount between the sub box and speaker to buy me 1/8”-1/4”.

I do see the TW3 is a good 1” shallower than the T1 but I was really hoping to avoid cutting the box or the speaker. The box is also too large for either speaker so maybe between that problem and mounting a speaker I’ll just bite the bullet and order the stealth box…
 

K5-Z71

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I considered mapping the mounting depth relative to the edge distance but it seemed more trouble than it’s worth since most drivers do not include the dimms of the magnet. The TW3 has a very wide magnet compared to other 10’s I’ve worked with so maybe a more traditional design will fit better.

If I were to do it again I’d get the stealth box or just one of the woofers others have confirmed to fit. I don’t think there is much benefit to a larger driver as it’s installed behind a sidewall in a relatively poor position to start with. However, bigger is better and nothing sounds better than your own custom work!
 
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iamlegion

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I considered mapping the mounting depth relative to the edge distance but it seemed more trouble than it’s worth since most drivers do not include the dimms of the magnet. The TW3 has a very wide magnet compared to other 10’s I’ve worked with so maybe a more traditional design will fit better.

If I were to do it again I’d get the stealth box or just one of the woofers others have confirmed to fit. I don’t think there is much benefit to a larger driver as it’s installed behind a sidewall in a relatively poor position to start with. However, bigger is better and nothing sounds better than your own custom work!

I decided to go with the stealth box, I don’t have time to fart around with mating a speaker to the Escalade box.

The LC2i almost threw me for a loop - when I was setting the sub level it kept clipping really early until I realized the main level out was also up… they should have you turn that down in the instructions.

it took a good 15-30 minutes to set the accubass, loc out levels, and the amp input level. I used an ANC termination harness.. worked like a charm. I left the loc knob by the jack access since I don’t foresee adjusting it all the time.

Sounds fantastic. Let me know if anyone has any questions.
 

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