Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida

[bobby2175]

Hi Everyone,

I'm not a mechanic, but starting to do some very basic things on the truck to fix some random issues.

I'm the original owner and have kept up generally on all maintenance. The last major maintenance took place around 120K miles where I had the GM dealer do their typical 100K mile service.

The only major issue I've run into over the past 5 years is the electrical issue that's all over the internet and this forum with gauges acting up, no start, under powered engine, etc. I've gone through and replaced the battery, battery cables, cleaned up/replaced the ground wires, and fuse block under the hood and now am about 800 miles in with no issues!

I have a few concerns:
1. I believe there is an engine oil leak (I have to top off oil to get to my next oil change - about a half bottle) and there is definitely evidence of it in the engine compartment
2. Someone mentioned years ago that I have a differential leak (have not done anything with this).
3. I can feel at idle that the car isn't fully smooth - I can feel a little bit of "shake" during idle (sorry, not sure how to describe it)
4. When I hit the gas, the truck hesitates for a split second where it feelslike it hits gear a little hard (gear is a complete assumption). If I'm gentle on the accelerator going from stop, it's perfectly smooth - but even knowing this, sometimes I forget.

Other than these issues (which up until now when I'm planning a long trip), I'd considered nuisance items. The vehicle itself runs great and I'm often traveling between a couple of states - think 2 hour drives each way a couple times a month and it's always an awesome drive and I'm never worried about it.

So, what should I address before I hit the road? I'm also afraid to do too much (like a trans flush) and run into issues on the way?

What stuff should I pack with me like extra fuses, jumper cables, etc to solve an issue in a pinch?

Thanks for all of your help. I really appreciate it!

Bobby

 

[Doubeleive]

well, it really depends on what all has been done already and how much you are willing to spend
transmission aside
I would replace the heater hoses and "T"'s (with oem) if they have not been done already
plugs and wires and clean the maf and throttle body
those item's above would be "bare minimum" in my suggestion box

 

[bobby2175]

well, it really depends on what all has been done already and how much you are willing to spend
transmission aside
I would replace the heater hoses and "T"'s (with oem) if they have not been done already
plugs and wires and clean the maf and throttle body
those item's above would be "bare minimum" in my suggestion box

I'm willing to spend some money - my hope is to push this truck to 300,000 miles if possible, so I'm not only looking at this as an investment for the trip, but long term as well.

I have not done any major maintenance on the truck other than what's mentioned above.

I haven't looked at it yet, but will do some research - is this something a non-mechanic with very, very basic vehicle skills can handle, but willing to research and learn?

 

[Doubeleive]

I'm willing to spend some money - my hope is to push this truck to 300,000 miles if possible, so I'm not only looking at this as an investment for the trip, but long term as well.

I have not done any major maintenance on the truck other than what's mentioned above.

I haven't looked at it yet, but will do some research - is this something a non-mechanic with very, very basic vehicle skills can handle?

yes for the most part, the heater hose t's on the firewall tend to be a headache but the easiest way is to cut the old ones off with some long needlenose pliers, there is a tool to take them off but it can still be difficult since you have to push and pull while applying the tool at the same time.
the #8 spark plug tends to be hard for some people but if you use your brain and a couple of adapters it's super easy.
the rest is a walk in the park.

 

[bobby2175]

yes for the most part, the heater hose t's on the firewall tend to be a headache but the easiest way is to cut the old ones off with some long needlenose pliers, there is a tool to take them off but it can still be difficult since you have to push and pull while applying the tool at the same time.
the #8 spark plug tends to be hard for some people but if you use your brain and a couple of adapters it's super easy.
the rest is a walk in the park.

Thanks! I'll look at this - I've not done spark plugs before (on any vehicle) but have started researching it and have seen the comments on #8.

You mentioned a couple of posts up - "really depends on what all has been done already and how much you are willing to spend" - should I consider anything else since I'm ok putting money into the truck?

 

[Doubeleive]

some other things would be
serpentine and ac belt
flush all fluids power steering, brake, coolant (while doing the aforementioned hoses), front & rear diff, transfer case.
@180k on original transmission?
how old is the battery?

 

[bobby2175]

some other things would be
serpentine and ac belt
flush all fluids power steering, brake, coolant (while doing the aforementioned hoses), front & rear diff, transfer case.
@180k on original transmission?
how old is the battery?

Yes, original transmission and I replaced the battery at the end of 2021.

Do I need to think about anything on the transmission?

That's a great list - any of those fluid flushes things I can handle myself? I was looking at the belts the other day when I was working on electrical stuff and wondering if I could do it, but it looked pretty complicated.

 

[iamdub]

What all was done at the 100K service? If the plugs were done, I wouldn't worry with those with only 80K on 'em. The OEM-spec platinum (or iridium, if used) can easily go twice that long. I'd definitely look at the "soft" parts Wes listed out. Don't overlook the simple basics such as tire pressures. Check the pressure of the spare and its condition. The spare is all too often forgotten about.

 

[swathdiver]

Bobby, I've been doing the same thing. Getting my 2009 Yukon XL with 191K ready for a trip from Florida to Monument Valley and back.

Your number 3 and 4 is probably because your driver's side engine mount is broken. They are fluid filled and only last so long under the power of that glorious 6.2.

If you have external engine oil cooler and transmission coolers, make sure the lines are not leaking. Sweating and weeping is ok, leaking is bad. Engine oil cooler would be lines going into driver's side tank on the radiator.

Fresh fluids will make the truck more efficient. Your "To Do" list can get out of hand and you can still have an alternator fail or radiator tank crack so don't worry about much under the hood if she's running well. In our case, we have enough set aside to leave the truck at a shop for a transmission overhaul while we rent another Yukon XL and continue on with our trip if necessary.

I did replace my heater hoses and Ts, even bought the tool to remove them but discovered it was not necessary with a firm grip and the push/squeeze/pull method. Popped right off.

Unlike you, I'll be using washer fluid that won't freeze and made sure my coolant mixture can handle freezing weather!

What part of Florida are you headed for?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Hi Everyone,

I'm not a mechanic, but starting to do some very basic things on the truck to fix some random issues.

I'm the original owner and have kept up generally on all maintenance. The last major maintenance took place around 120K miles where I had the GM dealer do their typical 100K mile service.

The only major issue I've run into over the past 5 years is the electrical issue that's all over the internet and this forum with gauges acting up, no start, under powered engine, etc. I've gone through and replaced the battery, battery cables, cleaned up/replaced the ground wires, and fuse block under the hood and now am about 800 miles in with no issues!

I have a few concerns:
1. I believe there is an engine oil leak (I have to top off oil to get to my next oil change - about a half bottle) and there is definitely evidence of it in the engine compartment
2. Someone mentioned years ago that I have a differential leak (have not done anything with this).
3. I can feel at idle that the car isn't fully smooth - I can feel a little bit of "shake" during idle (sorry, not sure how to describe it)
4. When I hit the gas, the truck hesitates for a split second where it feelslike it hits gear a little hard (gear is a complete assumption). If I'm gentle on the accelerator going from stop, it's perfectly smooth - but even knowing this, sometimes I forget.

Other than these issues (which up until now when I'm planning a long trip), I'd considered nuisance items. The vehicle itself runs great and I'm often traveling between a couple of states - think 2 hour drives each way a couple times a month and it's always an awesome drive and I'm never worried about it.

So, what should I address before I hit the road? I'm also afraid to do too much (like a trans flush) and run into issues on the way?

What stuff should I pack with me like extra fuses, jumper cables, etc to solve an issue in a pinch?

Thanks for all of your help. I really appreciate it!

Bobby

You have received great advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

If you have a local shop in your area that you trust, you can have some of these recommended maintenance items done for a much lower cost that going to the dealer.

Check all fluid levels, particularly the differential (which you said may have a leak).
Change ALL coolant hoses, including the 2 Tees, as mentioned above. (I had a coolant hose rupture on my Denali, and the coolant was pumped out on the road in a matter of seconds.)

 

[Doubeleive]

Yes, original transmission and I replaced the battery at the end of 2021.

Do I need to think about anything on the transmission?

That's a great list - any of those fluid flushes things I can handle myself? I was looking at the belts the other day when I was working on electrical stuff and wondering if I could do it, but it looked pretty complicated.

With some basic tools yes

 

[bobby2175]

What all was done at the 100K service? If the plugs were done, I wouldn't worry with those with only 80K on 'em. The OEM-spec platinum (or iridium, if used) can easily go twice that long. I'd definitely look at the "soft" parts Wes listed out. Don't overlook the simple basics such as tire pressures. Check the pressure of the spare and its condition. The spare is all too often forgotten about.

When the 100K service was done, plugs and wires were replaced.

Great idea on the spare - I didn't even think of that!

 

[bobby2175]

Bobby, I've been doing the same thing. Getting my 2009 Yukon XL with 191K ready for a trip from Florida to Monument Valley and back.

Your number 3 and 4 is probably because your driver's side engine mount is broken. They are fluid filled and only last so long under the power of that glorious 6.2.

If you have external engine oil cooler and transmission coolers, make sure the lines are not leaking. Sweating and weeping is ok, leaking is bad. Engine oil cooler would be lines going into driver's side tank on the radiator.

Fresh fluids will make the truck more efficient. Your "To Do" list can get out of hand and you can still have an alternator fail or radiator tank crack so don't worry about much under the hood if she's running well. In our case, we have enough set aside to leave the truck at a shop for a transmission overhaul while we rent another Yukon XL and continue on with our trip if necessary.

I did replace my heater hoses and Ts, even bought the tool to remove them but discovered it was not necessary with a firm grip and the push/squeeze/pull method. Popped right off.

Unlike you, I'll be using washer fluid that won't freeze and made sure my coolant mixture can handle freezing weather!

What part of Florida are you headed for?

We're actually headed to the Orlando area and then jumping onto a cruise! How about you?

 

[bobby2175]

Thanks, everyone for the great advice! I just went and picked up the heater hoses and the Ts to get those done and I'll get through the list of things here. I may come back with more questions and how to do questions.

 

[Doubeleive]

i mentioned plugs and wires because you noted some rough idle or "shake" which could be related but cleaning the intake and replacing the plugs may help smooth out the idle and might also give a pinch more fuel economy. I would also throw in some fuel injector cleaner for the foreseeable future, some at each of the next 4-5 tank fulls at least or have a injector service done. as james mentioned could be the motor mounts also but if you do not regularly clean the intake and/or fuel injector cleaner then you might be surprised how much difference it can make.

 

[bobby2175]

I have not regularly cleaned the intake or throttle body - it's probably been about 80K-100K miles. You mentioned clean MAF before - what was this?

Also, is fuel injector cleaner the best way (meaning will accomplish the job and not damage anything) or is one of the induction cleaning services like offered at the dealer better? I actually have some older bottles of injector cleaner I can use as long as they don't degrade after sitting on the shelf for a while.

Is the process for those to put injector cleaner in (I'm assuming would need 2 bottles) while filling tank, let the tank run until low and then repeat, or do I run it low, then add the bottle and when I get really low, add a little fuel and then another bottle?

 

[bobby2175]

What all was done at the 100K service? If the plugs were done, I wouldn't worry with those with only 80K on 'em. The OEM-spec platinum (or iridium, if used) can easily go twice that long. I'd definitely look at the "soft" parts Wes listed out. Don't overlook the simple basics such as tire pressures. Check the pressure of the spare and its condition. The spare is all too often forgotten about.

Question on the spare - it's located under the vehicle - it's been exposed to the elements since it was new 13 years ago, should I assume that it's degraded/rotted to the point of needing to just be replaced? I also have to figure out how to get it down as well but I'm sure I can find info online.

 

[bobby2175]

Bobby, I've been doing the same thing. Getting my 2009 Yukon XL with 191K ready for a trip from Florida to Monument Valley and back.

Your number 3 and 4 is probably because your driver's side engine mount is broken. They are fluid filled and only last so long under the power of that glorious 6.2.

If you have external engine oil cooler and transmission coolers, make sure the lines are not leaking. Sweating and weeping is ok, leaking is bad. Engine oil cooler would be lines going into driver's side tank on the radiator.

Fresh fluids will make the truck more efficient. Your "To Do" list can get out of hand and you can still have an alternator fail or radiator tank crack so don't worry about much under the hood if she's running well. In our case, we have enough set aside to leave the truck at a shop for a transmission overhaul while we rent another Yukon XL and continue on with our trip if necessary.

I did replace my heater hoses and Ts, even bought the tool to remove them but discovered it was not necessary with a firm grip and the push/squeeze/pull method. Popped right off.

Unlike you, I'll be using washer fluid that won't freeze and made sure my coolant mixture can handle freezing weather!

What part of Florida are you headed for?

You mentioned "firm grip and the push/squeeze/pull method" when pulling the Ts off. Can you elaborate on this?

Is there a good way to diagnose a failed engine mount?

 

[swathdiver]

We're actually headed to the Orlando area and then jumping onto a cruise! How about you?

Cruising out of Port Canaveral is nice, did that earlier this year. We live about 90 minutes south of there in Port Saint Lucie. Since I just survived a Saddle PE, Monument Valley will have to wait but we're still going to Texas.

I have not regularly cleaned the intake or throttle body - it's probably been about 80K-100K miles. You mentioned clean MAF before - what was this?

Also, is fuel injector cleaner the best way (meaning will accomplish the job and not damage anything) or is one of the induction cleaning services like offered at the dealer better? I actually have some older bottles of injector cleaner I can use as long as they don't degrade after sitting on the shelf for a while.

Is the process for those to put injector cleaner in while filling tank, let the tank run until low and then repeat?

The easiest way to clean the injectors is to run the truck on E85 for 5-6 tanks of fuel. Only do this with factory oxygen sensors with less than 100K miles on them. Otherwise it may mess up your alcohol content and lead to driveability issues until the proper scan tool can get everything back in order.

Question on the spare - it's located under the vehicle - it's been exposed to the elements since it was new 13 years ago, should I assume that it's degraded/rotted to the point of needing to just be replaced? I also have to figure out how to get it down as well but I'm sure I can find info online.

The tire will be fine unless it was struck by something. It's the wheel and corrosion you have to be careful of. When was the last time you ran the hoist up and down? We do ours twice a year, Independence Day and New Year's Day and thankfully have never had to use it. If the hoist is rotted out, well then the condition of the tire doesn't matter!

You mentioned "firm grip and the push/squeeze/pull method" when pulling the Ts off. Can you elaborate on this?

Is there a good way to diagnose a failed engine mount?

You push towards the firewall on the hose and pinch the white locking tabs on both sides, might need to wiggle a little, then pull straight back and off the heater core. Disconnect the hoses to the water pump so you can rotate them when disconnecting the lines that run to the rear heater core. Tons of videos on youtube. Many find it easier to remove the hoses from the Ts to the water pump and then remove the Ts from the heater core.

Your description of how the car runs in 3 and 4 are signs of a failed mount. You may also see fluid stains on the rubber where it leaked out. The most definite test is to have someone power-brake the engine (hold brakes and rev the motor up while in gear) while another watches whether the engine rises or not. A little movement is normal, more than an inch it's time for replacement. Lots of threads on here on how to do them. I put solid mounts on one of my pickups and kept fluid filled mounts for my wagon.

 

[bobby2175]

Cruising out of Port Canaveral is nice, did that earlier this year. We live about 90 minutes south of there in Port Saint Lucie. Since I just survived a Saddle PE, Monument Valley will have to wait but we're still going to Texas.



The easiest way to clean the injectors is to run the truck on E85 for 5-6 tanks of fuel. Only do this with factory oxygen sensors with less than 100K miles on them. Otherwise it may mess up your alcohol content and lead to driveability issues until the proper scan tool can get everything back in order.



The tire will be fine unless it was struck by something. It's the wheel and corrosion you have to be careful of. When was the last time you ran the hoist up and down? We do ours twice a year, Independence Day and New Year's Day and thankfully have never had to use it. If the hoist is rotted out, well then the condition of the tire doesn't matter!



You push towards the firewall on the hose and pinch the white locking tabs on both sides, might need to wiggle a little, then pull straight back and off the heater core. Disconnect the hoses to the water pump so you can rotate them when disconnecting the lines that run to the rear heater core. Tons of videos on youtube. Many find it easier to remove the hoses from the Ts to the water pump and then remove the Ts from the heater core.

Your description of how the car runs in 3 and 4 are signs of a failed mount. You may also see fluid stains on the rubber where it leaked out. The most definite test is to have someone power-brake the engine (hold brakes and rev the motor up while in gear) while another watches whether the engine rises or not. A little movement is normal, more than an inch it's time for replacement. Lots of threads on here on how to do them. I put solid mounts on one of my pickups and kept fluid filled mounts for my wagon.

Thanks for all of this info!

So, I don't remember O2 sensor changes yet - I believe they are original and now with 180K miles, should I avoid the E85?

Had no idea there was a hoist for the spare...now you can see the extent of my knowledge...but I'm learning!

I'll try the brake test this weekend to check the mount.