What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[blueinkd]

Looking forward to the results!

I just ordered some 1/2 heater hose brackets clamps for routing purposes

 

[Scott in AZ]

All new rear brakes. Calipers, rotors and pads. Going to have the emergency brake assembly done next week and front pads. Doing a big refurbish on her.
Milestone this morning:

View attachment 404353

300K, respect.

 

[Mudsport96]

Rear brakes. And run through the automatic wash. Not much but something

 

[Scott in AZ]

Basic driveway car wash for my 2001 Yukon. Nothing fancy. Original paint has some dings for sure but this SUV cleans up well even after twenty years.

 

[Logan5]

Put the Dorman cheater clamp on to secure that rearmost part of the exhaust manifold. Was a b*tch to get in, went from underneath and put a bend in one of my wrenches to get it tightened. But seems like it worked and haven't heard the ticking since.

Gotta say having a few crappy wrenches around that I can 'modify' with strange bends to get in hard places is pretty useful.

 

[5x10]

What is involved in this ? Anybody got pics? Seems like I’m on borrowed time at 171K miles in my 2001. Any advice appreciated.

Super easy, just YouTube it
5-10 min job

 

[5x10]

my dash has cracked, all the way on the left hand side
detached piece rattles

most likely gonn tape it and by a plastic cover(not a fan of carpet)

‘’any recommendations?

 

[Tonyrodz]

my dash has cracked, all the way on the left hand side
detached piece rattles

most likely gonn tape it and by a plastic cover(not a fan of carpet)

‘’any recommendations?

Why not buy a used one?

 

[Fless]

Drove it to the orifice and topped off with E85 (E70, actually) on the way in. When I pulled in to the station the gauge was just over half full. Pegged when I left!

 

[clandr1]

Got my oil analysis via email a few minutes ago, and unfortunately lead content has spiked based on historical data. Despite me having done quite a few repairs and maintenance myself, I know next to nothing about how to rebuild a motor. What are my next steps? Keep driving it and don't worry about it, or start thinking about having the motor rebuilt?

 

[iamdub]

Got my oil analysis via email a few minutes ago, and unfortunately lead content has spiked based on historical data. Despite me having done quite a few repairs and maintenance myself, I know next to nothing about how to rebuild a motor. What are my next steps? Keep driving it and don't worry about it, or start thinking about having the motor rebuilt?

Added anything new or replaced anything that engine oil would contact?

 

[clandr1]

Added anything new or replaced anything that engine oil would contact?

In May of 2021 I replaced the oil pressure sender (at 227k miles) but I doubt that would be the culprit since I've changed the oil several times since then. I did make a ~1,900 total mile road trip to southern CO and back the last week of June, I wonder if running the motor that hard that long might have had something to do with it. I changed the oil when I got home and sent it off to Blackstone which is what I posted above.

 

[the 18th letter]

Got my oil analysis via email a few minutes ago, and unfortunately lead content has spiked based on historical data. Despite me having done quite a few repairs and maintenance myself, I know next to nothing about how to rebuild a motor. What are my next steps? Keep driving it and don't worry about it, or start thinking about having the motor rebuilt?

Do both. Keep driving it and start an engine fund with the hope its fully funded before its needed. Have you noticed any difference in driveability?

 

[Scott in AZ]

Super easy, just YouTube it
5-10 min job

Ok, I got my got my blower motor resistor annd harness and will proactively replace the 22-y/o set on my Yukon. Should I change out the blower motor too? Mine seems noisy (loud air, not loud mechanical) but I can’t remember how it’s supposed to sound.

 

[ScottyBoy]

On Monday I changed the oil in the ole Burban. Gave her a full belly of 6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum and a Wix filter. I bought out Tractor Supply last month when they had a bunch of oil on clearance. I have enough oil for the next two years or so, enough for both my truck and the wife's Traverse. I have enough Pennzoil for 2 more oil changes, and Castrol for 5 more oil changes. A total of NINE oil changes for just barely $100. Plus I ordered about $70 worth of Wix filters from Rockauto to go with it. My wife says I'm a hoarder, i say I'm just being frugal. Lol!!!

 

[ScottyBoy]

Do both. Keep driving it and start an engine fund with the hope its fully funded before its needed. Have you noticed any difference in driveability?

I just went thru the same thing. I kept getting more and more traces of potassium in my oil, which is only possible if coolant is getting in. I check all my bases, looked for any possible cases (like Castech heads for instance) but I couldn't find ANY coolant leaks. So I just kept driving it and regularly changing the oil. I got another 4 years, and almost 40k miles out of it from the first reported instance of traces of coolant in my oil. If I had babied it, I probably could have gotten far more life out it. But I drive it live I stole it, and it bit me in the ass because I floored it one day then lost all oil pressure. Long story short, I slipped a cam bearing, go figure.
I ended up getting a crate 5.3 engine from O'Reilly auto parts, and had it installed a few months ago. I have almost 5,000 miles on it and not only is it running great, I'm getting a LOT more fuel mileage than I did with the last engine. I would be lucky to get 13mpg before, now I've been consistently seeing 17-18mpg.

 

[blueinkd]

I see no problem other than you'll have a rubber hose passing near the header tube instead of an aluminum tube. If you can route it far enough away, sure. Yes, definitely flare the tube or a leak will be highly probable. Personally, I'd drain the line and solder/"weld" it closed and bend it away from the header.

I need to put a bead in mine but the tools to do it are pricey compared to double clamping it.

*EDIT* Found this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=31586

This tool is not good for those 1/2 heater lines. It did not slide into the line even after I spit on it and hit it with the sauce. So I did what i should have done Sunday, cut the section of below the ac drier, ran 1/2" gates heater hose and some clamps. Problem solved. I'm just going to use some of the hose clamps I ordered tomorrow to tidy up the routing of the new hose. Probably get some pics up also.

 

[clandr1]

Do both. Keep driving it and start an engine fund with the hope its fully funded before its needed. Have you noticed any difference in driveability?

Nope, hasn’t changed a bit. I’ll keep driving it and just prepare myself for an eventual rebuild/replacement.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Nope, hasn’t changed a bit. I’ll keep driving it and just prepare myself for an eventual rebuild/replacement.

When the time comes that'll be your excuse to get a 6.0! Bigger is better.

 

[5x10]

Ok, I got my got my blower motor resistor annd harness and will proactively replace the 22-y/o set on my Yukon. Should I change out the blower motor too? Mine seems noisy (loud air, not loud mechanical) but I can’t remember how it’s supposed to sound.

It’s weird, when I fixed my resistor, my motor started knocking a little bit. But it still works, so I’ll run it till it dies
i probably need to switch out the blower motor too