Input or advice from others on cam swap for 6.2L 2011 Yukon Denali

[JPS0284]

Vvt engines run a higher pressure pump than non vvt, that is why people change them out when deleting. That being said, it depends on the mileage on your engine. Anything over 60k, I would change it while I was in there. You can do it without pulling the pan, just need to lower it down and fiddle F,ck you fingers in there to get at the bolt. Just pack the opening with clean towels incase you drop the bolt. Also, don't change to the dog bone tensioner like is common, I just replace with a new gm tensioner assembly. The vvt systems don't like the play in the traditional dog bone conversion a guy does when doing a cam.

I thought the L94’s got a different oil pump than a L92 because of the AFM? The trucks got 120k and it’s almost ready for an oil change so I was thinking it would be a good time to take care of it. It wouldn’t be a big deal to drop the pan because I plan on putting on speed engineering 1 7/8 long tube headers and Y pipe. I check the PIN on rockauto or just order up a oem L92 oil pump

 

[hagar]

I thought the L94’s got a different oil pump than a L92 because of the AFM? The trucks got 120k and it’s almost ready for an oil change so I was thinking it would be a good time to take care of it. It wouldn’t be a big deal to drop the pan because I plan on putting on speed engineering 1 7/8 long tube headers and Y pipe. I check the PIN on rockauto or just order up a oem L92 oil pump

I don't change oil pumps when doing a dod delete and keeping the vvt. It is the pressure to work the vvt system that is important, not for the dod.

 

[JPS0284]

I don't change oil pumps when doing a dod delete and keeping the vvt. It is the pressure to work the vvt system that is important, not for the dod.

Perfect I’ll skip it, the wallet bleeding is starting to stop

 

[Geotrash]

I thought the L94’s got a different oil pump than a L92 because of the AFM? The trucks got 120k and it’s almost ready for an oil change so I was thinking it would be a good time to take care of it. It wouldn’t be a big deal to drop the pan because I plan on putting on speed engineering 1 7/8 long tube headers and Y pipe. I check the PIN on rockauto or just order up a oem L92 oil pump

My understanding is that the high volume pump is required because the tolerances in the aluminum block open up further with heat than in a cast iron block because aluminum has a greater thermal expansion rate. When I did mine, I installed the Melling high volume pump (same as the factory spec), even though I was deleting both VVT and AFM. And I'm glad I did because when my engine is hot when towing on a hot day, my oil pressure stays right in the slot at 42-45 psi. But I also see no problem with keeping the pump you have - they'll usually last the life of the engine if they don't get damaged by debris. What I would definitely do though is change the o-ring on the oil pick-up tube because they get hard over time and start sucking air, dropping oil pressure. Buy the fat green one from Melling. You'll need to drop the front of the oil pan to do this, and at that point you might as well take the whole thing off so you can clean it out and apply RTV to the corners so it seals up right when you're done.

Thanks I appreciate your honesty, I’ll go with the stage 1 then. Now that’s settled, I originally set down this path to do a AFM delete on my L94, do I need to swap out oil pumps I heard something about needing to block passages in the sump? I think goetrash had it in his list when he did his swap.

In the oil pan is a pop-off valve to relieve oil pressure spikes as the AFM system operates. Some folks choose to either replace it with a new one (what I did), or install a plug to eliminate the possibility of problems with it later. It's purely optional though and I wouldn't sweat leaving the original. The L94 already has the deflector installed on it to prevent piston ring sticking problems.

 

[JPS0284]

Th

My understanding is that the high volume pump is required because the tolerances in the aluminum block open up further with heat than in a cast iron block because aluminum has a greater thermal expansion rate. When I did mine, I installed the Melling high volume pump (same as the factory spec), even though I was deleting both VVT and AFM. And I'm glad I did because when my engine is hot when towing on a hot day, my oil pressure stays right in the slot at 42-45 psi. But I also see no problem with keeping the pump you have - they'll usually last the life of the engine if they don't get damaged by debris. What I would definitely do though is change the o-ring on the oil pick-up tube because they get hard over time and start sucking air, dropping oil pressure. Buy the fat green one from Melling. You'll need to drop the front of the oil pan to do this, and at that point you might as well take the whole thing off so you can clean it out and apply RTV to the corners so it seals up right when you're done.


In the oil pan is a pop-off valve to relieve oil pressure spikes as the AFM system operates. Some folks choose to either replace it with a new one (what I did), or install a plug to eliminate the possibility of problems with it later. It's purely optional though and I wouldn't sweat leaving the original. The L94 already has the deflector installed on it to prevent piston ring sticking problems.

Thanks so much I really appreciate your advice it’s definitely taken some of the anxiety off doing the swap. Thanks again everyone!

 

[hagar]

My understanding is that the high volume pump is required because the tolerances in the aluminum block open up further with heat than in a cast iron block because aluminum has a greater thermal expansion rate. When I did mine, I installed the Melling high volume pump (same as the factory spec), even though I was deleting both VVT and AFM. And I'm glad I did because when my engine is hot when towing on a hot day, my oil pressure stays right in the slot at 42-45 psi. But I also see no problem with keeping the pump you have - they'll usually last the life of the engine if they don't get damaged by debris. What I would definitely do though is change the o-ring on the oil pick-up tube because they get hard over time and start sucking air, dropping oil pressure. Buy the fat green one from Melling. You'll need to drop the front of the oil pan to do this, and at that point you might as well take the whole thing off so you can clean it out and apply RTV to the corners so it seals up right when you're done.


In the oil pan is a pop-off valve to relieve oil pressure spikes as the AFM system operates. Some folks choose to either replace it with a new one (what I did), or install a plug to eliminate the possibility of problems with it later. It's purely optional though and I wouldn't sweat leaving the original. The L94 already has the deflector installed on it to prevent piston ring sticking problems.

That is really good to know! I ass backwards myself into always running a high pressure/volume pump on aluminum engines I guess! Haha!
I always run higher pressure/volume melling pumps on engine builds as well, learned something new today thanks!
Not sure if you have ever seen the pressure on a dry sump gm engine, they pretty much peg the Guage when cold, super high pressure, so it never scared me to run a high pressure pump, especially with how tight the bearings are on these things.

 

[JPS0284]

That is really good to know! I ass backwards myself into always running a high pressure/volume pump on aluminum engines I guess! Haha!
I always run higher pressure/volume melling pumps on engine builds as well, learned something new today thanks!
Not sure if you have ever seen the pressure on a dry sump gm engine, they pretty much peg the Guage when cold, super high pressure, so it never scared me to run a high pressure pump, especially with how tight the bearings are on these things.

Probably a dumb question but the cam swap wouldn’t have any effect over fuel choices? I mainly run E85 in the truck because its usually 30-40% cheaper than 92 and I like how the truck responds to it.

 

[hagar]

Probably a dumb question but the cam swap wouldn’t have any effect over fuel choices? I mainly run E85 in the truck because its usually 30-40% cheaper than 92 and I like how the truck responds to it.

Na, nothing to worry about.

 

[Geotrash]

Na, nothing to worry about.

+1. E85 has a higher octane rating between 100 and 105, so you’re good there. But you will need to run at least 91 from now on after the cam swap and tune if you’re not running E85. Lots of examples of grenaded 6.2’s run on lower octane fuel under load. And that goes double after a cam swap and tune.

 

[JPS0284]

+1. E85 has a higher octane rating between 100 and 105, so you’re good there. But you will need to run at least 91 from now on after the cam swap and tune if you’re not running E85. Lots of examples of grenaded 6.2’s run on lower octane fuel under load. And that goes double after a cam swap and tune.

I’ll let the wife know it’ll be much more critical after the works done but she knows not to put anything other then E85/92+. I’m usually the one filling it up anyways, she just brings it back like a rental car with a 1/4 tank that’s been rode hard and put away wet…

 

[Geotrash]

I’ll let the wife know it’ll be much more critical after the works done but she knows not to put anything other then E85/92+. I’m usually the one filling it up anyways, she just brings it back like a rental car with a 1/4 tank that’s been rode hard and put away wet…

I'm married to her sister.

 

[JPS0284]

I'm married to her sister.

Its gratifying knowing I’m not alone

 

[JPS0284]

Na, nothing to worry about.

So I just got all my cam and a bunch of AFM delete goodies. So I unboxed the cam looking for more paperwork and all that was in the box is this, I thought there was supposed to be a info table or something to give to Black bear?

 

[hagar]

So I just got all my cam and a bunch of AFM delete goodies. So I unboxed the cam looking for more paperwork and all that was in the box is this, I thought there was supposed to be a info table or something to give to Black bear?

You have to email tsp for the tables, or blackbear can.

 

[JPS0284]

You have to email tsp for the tables, or blackbear can.

Nice, I got everything ready to go except the headers and the y pipe should be in by the middle of next week. Hoping all goes well and I don’t have to dig out to many busted manifold bolts. Any secret strategies for dealing with that particular issue?

 

[hagar]

Nice, I got everything ready to go except the headers and the y pipe should be in by the middle of next week. Hoping all goes well and I don’t have to dig out to many busted manifold bolts. Any secret strategies for dealing with that particular issue?

I use a welder and Weld a nut on the broken bolts if they are flush or better or slightly below the surface. They come out pretty easy, just need to get onto them. Easy put works as well, but keep a super hawk eye on your angles so you don't go off course and hit water. The easy out way is not for beer drinking time, the welding way works with beers.
One other note. The absolute number one screw up people make with the vvt set up is missing the dowel on the camshaft. It goes on pretty blind, so I like to pull it and put it on a few times to be super sure. If the dowel misses the hole, it will at best misfire like crazy, at worst, smack some valves. Other than that, make sure you get all the coolant out of the head bolt holes before bolting down the heads.
Good luck!

 

[JPS0284]

I use a welder and Weld a nut on the broken bolts if they are flush or better or slightly below the surface. They come out pretty easy, just need to get onto them. Easy put works as well, but keep a super hawk eye on your angles so you don't go off course and hit water. The easy out way is not for beer drinking time, the welding way works with beers.
One other note. The absolute number one screw up people make with the vvt set up is missing the dowel on the camshaft. It goes on pretty blind, so I like to pull it and put it on a few times to be super sure. If the dowel misses the hole, it will at best misfire like crazy, at worst, smack some valves. Other than that, make sure you get all the coolant out of the head bolt holes before bolting down the heads.
Good luck!

Shop vac the head bolt holes, check. No beers with easyouts, check. For the cams …think I know what your talking about lol, but I’ll try to find some more videos on it tonight.

 

[hagar]

Shop vac the head bolt holes, check. No beers with easyouts, check. For the cams …think I know what your talking about lol, but I’ll try to find some more videos on it tonight.

Best to blow them out with compressed air if you have it, unless you have some sort of super skinny ant eater type vac that can reach down 6 inches into a 3/8 hole. Just make sure you wear safety glasses or close your eyes when you give it a shot. No matter how hard you try, coolant always makes it into the holes. On that note. If you ever feel a head bolt feel squishy and not torguing right, stop and check the hole again. If you push through, you can hydraulic it and brake stuff. Every once in a while it happens even if you are careful. Coolant sloshes out of the block passage and into the hole after you thought it was clean. If it feels weird while torque, like it feels like the bolt is spring loaded, stop, and re check.
.

 

[JPS0284]

Best to blow them out with compressed air if you have it, unless you have some sort of super skinny ant eater type vac that can reach down 6 inches into a 3/8 hole. Just make sure you wear safety glasses or close your eyes when you give it a shot. No matter how hard you try, coolant always makes it into the holes. On that note. If you ever feel a head bolt feel squishy and not torguing right, stop and check the hole again. If you push through, you can hydraulic it and brake stuff. Every once in a while it happens even if you are careful. Coolant sloshes out of the block passage and into the hole after you thought it was clean. If it feels weird while torque, like it feels like the bolt is spring loaded, stop, and re check.
.

Thanks for the tips I really appreciate it, what pin are you talking about in the cam? Is in the new one now? Ill start looking into after the kids go to bed

 

[hagar]

Thanks for the tips I really appreciate it, what pin are you talking about in the cam? Is in the new one now? Ill start looking into after the kids go to bed

Yeah it comes in the cam. It indexes the cam phaser to the camshaft. On a traditional cam sprocket that is non variable timing, you can see the pin on the camshaft go into the sprocket for indexing clear as day. There is zero doubt it is installed because you can see the tip of the pin coming through the hole of the cam sprocket. With the vvt version, it's blind.