my last 6L80 post :(

[denalilex]

i forgot about that. Getting off at aramingo is a shit show and they should have kept bridge st.. I used to live like minutes from the bridge st exit so that would be extremely inconvenient. I’m up in Bensalem now.

Idk if you’re on Facebook but if you get on marketplace, just search Tahoe parts and you’ll see post by Matt Mancuso or something like that. He has all the truck parts you’ll ever need.

And funny you ask about my wheels. I was in Sharon hill this morning. The roads are F*CKED! And I was saying to myself, is this why people always complain about the roads in Philly? Lol

hahaha I keep a couple extra tires on ice ... one spare ain't enough... omg Sharon Hill. im 10 min from there. Bartram wawa... Bartram ave is a suicide mission for my wheels. I try to avoid it at all costs. that 95 exit makes my entire truck skip to the next lane its so bad. so yes , this is what everyone in Philly is talking about... good luck after winter. I tried to source those big beach ice cream cart floatie wheels for my truck but for some reason they don't make them.


thats funny. I lived in Bensalem a while. right on street road. right when you get off the exit by the dunkin. [that dunkin ducks BTW] ... bucks County. my dog got out my front door the day I moved into my place there when I was getting the couch in the front door & I could be seen from everywhere on parx front lawn chasing him in circles for like an hour. good times.

aramingo blows. but it's got good people watching to offer. that is a solid time. that ramp closing down already sucks. Betsy Ross is sketch city. it's all dark & questionable. I try to avoid it. now it's unavoidable. apparently they closed it cause people don't know how to drive here & were crashing into either each other , the overpass pillars or the concrete median. that's saying something fierce. if people in this city suck at driving so bad that the only remedy is to CLOSE an entire part of the interstate... that's sad lmaoooo ugh. Philly.

 

[denalilex]

i forgot about that. Getting off at aramingo is a shit show and they should have kept bridge st.. I used to live like minutes from the bridge st exit so that would be extremely inconvenient. I’m up in Bensalem now.

Idk if you’re on Facebook but if you get on marketplace, just search Tahoe parts and you’ll see post by Matt Mancuso or something like that. He has all the truck parts you’ll ever need.

And funny you ask about my wheels. I was in Sharon hill this morning. The roads are F*CKED! And I was saying to myself, is this why people always complain about the roads in Philly? Lol

also I live on marketplace. I have a problem on marketplace. I have to stop but I can't.

I just got all new stock air shocks & struts front & rear all around with 10k miles on them for $250. granted i bought them 4 hours before my transmission blew but thats how things go for me. I bought a driver rear shock new since mine is torn. the same day I bought it - the passenger tore ... if I didn't have bad luck I'd just have none lolol

 

[NickTransmissions]

I know you're trying to help people and that's all good. But many of us simply can't do any of that. I don't even have the lifts to get the vehicle high enough to work under it.

What's worse is we do not have a single shop within 100 miles, maybe more that will open a transmission. They'll drop and install, but they will not work on them. All are sent out to a distant rebuilder or factory rebuilts are used.

You'd be surprised what you're capable of doing when properly motivated.

Removing and reinstalling a transmission isn't difficult as long as you have your basic tools, reasonably flat work surface, 6-ton jack stands (4), trans jack and a 15mm wobble socket (1/2 inch drive) and 24-36" 1/2 drive extension for the bell housing bolt at 12 o'clock (or just string a whole bunch of 9-12" extensions together though not as desirable).

If you don't have any shops around you for trans work, that's all the more reason to teach yourself how to build them yourself so you don't have to worry about it...It's not that difficult. I didn't go to any tech school to learn these things. I taught myself. If you're physically not capable that's one thing - unfortunately no getting around that. Otherwise, it can be done.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

@NickTransmissions this thread mentioned that 1-2 shifting “breaking your neck”

This is probably the most common issue I have on my ‘14 and only happens when it’s cold out, or just when the transmission is cold and it warmed up.

Glad I found this thread, rest in peace to your Tahoe!

I don’t wanna be this guy

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I love this post! Ditto. These guys almsot make me feel confident enough to pull my trans and rebuild it (if I just had the $1000 dollars of tools) lol

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

also I live on marketplace. I have a problem on marketplace. I have to stop but I can't.

I just got all new stock air shocks & struts front & rear all around with 10k miles on them for $250. granted i bought them 4 hours before my transmission blew but thats how things go for me. I bought a driver rear shock new since mine is torn. the same day I bought it - the passenger tore ... if I didn't have bad luck I'd just have none lolol

So did you have any codes thrown? Or does it just kinda happen at the worse time?

 

[Just Fishing]

I have a set of 12 ton jack stands that I used to remove my transmission, I used a harbor freight motorcycle jack modified with some 2x4's in order to support the transmission + transfer case.
That combo is one heavy sob.
those 12 ton jackstands have a huge footprint, very solid with the tahoe up in the air!

I'll say you should have somewhere clean to work, and you will want to be able to keep stuff very organized.
You will also need an air compressor to do air checks.

And I'll go out on a limb and say that your 1-2-3-4/3-5-R Housing cracked or the piston cracked.
Same symptoms either way.

Rebuild manual,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012GWF8P6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will want one of these, loaded with clutches!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FRF5TUI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Having done one, I'll say if you don't have a garage or somewhere to keep stuff clean, then try and find a used one.
you can rebuild your transmission control module for new laminates and seals, and avoid any computer related issues.

Rebuilding my own, I easily got up and over 1k, probably close to the $2k price tag just for parts, seals, some tools, and a brand new transmission pump (housings and pump kit).

 

[NickTransmissions]

And I'll go out on a limb and say that your 1-2-3-4/3-5-R Housing cracked or the piston cracked.
Same symptoms either way.

Rebuild manual,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012GWF8P6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you can rebuild your transmission control module for new laminates and seals, and avoid any computer related issues.

Rebuilding my own, I easily got up and over 1k, probably close to the $2k price tag just for parts, seals, some tools, and a brand new transmission pump (housings and pump kit).

Good post re tools and workspace but he's likely not buying them anytime soon (i hope he proves me wrong).

It's possible his fwd piston (1-2-3-4) is cracked but that invariably produces a slip or flare condition (so far he's only mentioned harsh 1-2 shift when cold) which is usually valve body. Plus we see those issues (piston and drum) in pre-2012 units moreso than units like his (2014+).

Point of clarification re the TEHCM pressure switches: you can service them by replacing the seals and diaphragms but if the switches are electrically compromised, the TEHCM has to be tossed/replaced.

Did you replace your parking rod assembly (assuming your unit is a 2017 or earlier)?

 

[Just Fishing]

Good post re tools and workspace but he's likely not buying them anytime soon (i hope he proves me wrong).

It's possible his fwd piston (1-2-3-4) is cracked but that invariably produces a slip or flare condition (so far he's only mentioned harsh 1-2 shift when cold) which is usually valve body. Plus we see those issues (piston and drum) in pre-2012 units moreso than units like his (2014+).

Point of clarification re the TEHCM pressure switches: you can service them by replacing the seals and diaphragms but if the switches are electrically compromised, the TEHCM has to be tossed/replaced.

Did you replace your parking rod assembly (assuming your unit is a 2017 or earlier)?

Parking rod assembly?

I didn't find anything about an issue or an updated part for anything related to the "park" functionality?

 

[NickTransmissions]

Parking rod assembly?

I didn't find anything about an issue or an updated part for anything related to the "park" functionality?

Here you go

 

[Just Fishing]

Here you go

Something to inspect the next time I have the pan off for sure!

Not that I ever trust park, as a kid a neighbor ford had a park failure and it came rolling backwards down a hill, saved by a parked car and the basketball hoop/pole that we were playing on.

I scold the wife if I see her ever use just "Park" w/o the parking brake.

 

[Just Fishing]

ETA: it looks like it's on the end that I never could get out to replace an O-Ring.


I got the shaft seal on the side, but I never could get that roll pin removed..

 

[Just Fishing]

Going through my images to see if I ever had that rod out, and if I happened to snap a picture...
Here is my make shift transmission jack.

Turbine shaft Teflon seal install if you don't have the proper tool to compress those seals.
Expanded using a funnel.

After

Those seals were just about worn out at 180k, still sealing but they were pretty thin...

 

[NickTransmissions]

ETA: it looks like it's on the end that I never could get out to replace an O-Ring.


I got the shaft seal on the side, but I never could get that roll pin removed..
View attachment 403257

See my "6L80E Special Tools" video where i show the little slide hammer/collet puller used to grab that roll pin. Its a pain in the ass, even with the tool. You'd remember using it...that said, you dont need to remove the rear roll pin unless you want to pull the housing to replace the o-rings.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Going through my images to see if I ever had that rod out, and if I happened to snap a picture...
Here is my make shift transmission jack.
View attachment 403259


Turbine shaft Teflon seal install if you don't have the proper tool to compress those seals.
Expanded using a funnel.

View attachment 403260

After
View attachment 403261



Those seals were just about worn out at 180k, still sealing but they were pretty thin...

Nice work, man! Glad to see folks take these on. IMO, they are relatively easy transmissions to take apart and rebuild as long as you have the right tools...

 

[Just Fishing]

I did this with some general tools, hardest part was pressing the pistons back in place.
I used a cheap amazon tranmission press modified to have a larger base and screwed down to a table...
I really went heavy on the assembly Gel due to fears of tearing a piston seal

For bushings I used a generic bushing install kit, lots of pictures and measurements to ensure I installed the bushings at the exact same depth.

The best installed bushings were ones that I needed to make up some missing space for the inside of the bushing with electrical tape.
Used super 33 for the smaller spaces, and super 88 when slightly more space was needed.
For some reason those bushings were the best fitting.

The one Official 6l80 tool I bought was for the giant snap ring.


As a novice w/o all the correct tools, the trick is to go real slow and take your time.
Blue print the fk out of it, detail everything.

And I had fun with this.
Last/first transmission was a 700R4 on my C4 vette, I replaced all of the internals, only the valve body, output shaft, and the transmission case is orignal.
the 6l80 was much better experience.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I d

The best installed bushings were ones that I needed to make up some missing space for the inside of the bushing with electrical tape.
Used super 33 for the smaller spaces, and super 88 when slightly more space was needed.
For some reason those bushings were the best fitting.

Do you have any pics of this? Perhaps I’m misunderstanding but are you saying you put electrical tape on the inside diameter of a bushing?

 

[Just Fishing]

Do you have any pics of this? Perhaps I’m misunderstanding but are you saying you put electrical tape on the inside diameter of a bushing?

lmc if i snapped a picture,
A few random pictures,

The cheap pos press that I nearly threw out the window a few times, installing the billet piston in that pesky 1-2-3-4 drum.

POS but it worked,

Fun with the transmission pump, I had to buy it in pieces so I had some really confusing instructions telling me what pump kit to buy, so me confirming I did it right so I don't destroy one expensive housing.

I used a feeler gauge and some plastigauge to double confirm I didn't do it wrong.

 

[Just Fishing]

Pretty once it's together.

I also used durabond one piece bushings throughout.
I gouged the ones that came in the pump doing the end play checks, so they got replaced before the final install.


Memory lane here...

End play was too loose, so I made my own shim since I couldn't source one during rona.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Not concerned about any of the above.

Only what you said about putting electrical tape on the bushings. Here's how im interpreting what you said:

You thought there was too much clearance between the Id of the bushing and OD of it's journal in whichever part the bushing was installed. So you elected to put electrical tape on the inner diameter of the bushing to reduce the clearance. And you installed these bushings with tape on them into the transmission.

Is that correct or no?

I suspect im simply misinterpreting what you're saying but want to be sure.