24mm Ball Joint Separator?

[swathdiver]

I bought the same tool, but with no branding. The bolt ends up slipping off the end and butchering up the surface.

In Post #16, see the stud sticking down with the hole through it? We had to saw that off to get that tool to fit over it and finally get it to work. We were using the Harbor Freight one after two days of grinding on it with a Dremel Tool to make it fit.

 

[OR VietVet]

@mhaywoodcz has the answer. The way I did it and with a pickle fork. I don't live in a rust state but did use penetrant ahead of time. The key is the jack under the nut/ball joint. Put the load on it with the jack pushing it up and a jarring action with the fork and it popped. Rust would make it more difficult but penetrant ahead of times, and several applications of it, should work fine because of the load put on it with the jack.

 

[swathdiver]

@mhaywoodcz has the answer. The way I did it and with a pickle fork. I don't live in a rust state but did use penetrant ahead of time. The key is the jack under the nut/ball joint. Put the load on it with the jack pushing it up and a jarring action with the fork and it popped. Rust would make it more difficult but penetrant ahead of times, and several applications of it, should work fine because of the load put on it with the jack.

I wrecked a couple pickle forks trying to get mine to pop.

Have you seen the Kittyhawk lately Ron? She's down in Brownsville behind cut up. There's a guy doing video updates with a drone every so often on youtube. Sad to see.

 

[89Suburban]

Following this.

*ball joint tool

 

[OR VietVet]

I wrecked a couple pickle forks trying to get mine to pop.

Have you seen the Kittyhawk lately Ron? She's down in Brownsville behind cut up. There's a guy doing video updates with a drone every so often on youtube. Sad to see.

Hey, the key to this is the ball joint nut being backed off and the jack under it all and lifting to where the weight of the vehicle is helping push the ball joint taper and the pickle fork coaxes it.

About the Kitty Hawk, Have not seen it since I got the letter from the US Government about what was going on with it. I was ship's company, so I got a letter. It said I was invited to Brownsville to see it come in to port. that salvage company bought the ship/carrier for $.01. No doubt they are cutting open many many many places I have been in and walked on. I will look up the drone stuff on you tube. My berthing compartment was just below the flight deck at the front/bow area where the steam catapults would slam in to the water to stop them, right after the launched jet was released. I learned to sleep through all of that. If you see the flight deck and look where the carrier number 63 is at the bow, that is where I slept, under there.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, so I went to the you tube video and here is a link from that:

All that white area up front where the flight deck has been cut away, is where they are stacking all the stuff they are tearing up under there and that looks like berthing compartment bunks. If it is bunks, one of those SOB's is mine.

 

[OR VietVet]

@Fless, I added some more Kitty Hawk info to my military thread if you want to move this.

 

[Fless]

@Fless, I added some more Kitty Hawk info to my military thread if you want to move this.

I don't see a way to move a single post to another thread. Might just be my inexperience.

You could replicate your post over there if you want.

 

[OR VietVet]

I don't see a way to move a single post to another thread. Might just be my inexperience.

You could replicate your post over there if you want.

I pretty much did. Thanks. I didn't want to get off the thread topic.

 

[gooffeyguy]

When I recently replaced my upper and lower control arms this past fall on my 2012, I didn't use anything special, just whacked the side a couple times with a 2lb hand sledge and they popped loose.

 

[swathdiver]

When I recently replaced my upper and lower control arms this past fall on my 2012, I didn't use anything special, just whacked the side a couple times with a 2lb hand sledge and they popped loose.

Lucky dog!

I even tried jacking like Ron suggested, only wound up lifting the truck up!

Got the right tool for the other two trucks, no more wasted time!

 

[OR VietVet]

Lucky dog!

I even tried jacking like Ron suggested, only wound up lifting the truck up!

Got the right tool for the other two trucks, no more wasted time!

Before the jack lifted the truck, it would have changed the control arm angles from full droop to the arms being more like when they are on the road, loaded. That is the sweet spot. I have only ever used a pickle fork or a bang or two at the spindle where the ball joint stem inserts at.

 

[Rael]

This is the tool you need. It's model 25112. Worked on my 99 Yukon. I searched this thread a few weeks ago and didn't see it mentioned. It's $50 on Amazon. I tried the silver looking one that looks like a jaw, those didn't open wide enough.

The nut on the end of the thread comes off, if you take that off the bolt and leave the castle nut on a few threads the bolt will go up into the nut and help hold it in place. With the nut on the tool it wants to slide off the castle nut.

I replaced ball joints few weeks ago and could not get the ball joint to separate from the knuckle with a pickle fork or hammer. This makes it a lot easier. You might need to cut the boot on the old ball joint to help it fit in place. Then start turning the bolt on the tool. If it is still stubborn you can try just leaving the tool on for a bit. When I removed the second ball joint, I tightened it down and got tired and stopped for a minute, and then the thing suddenly POPPED and broke it loose.

 

[OR VietVet]

This is the tool you need. It's model 25112. Worked on my 99 Yukon. I searched this thread a few weeks ago and didn't see it mentioned. It's $50 on Amazon. I tried the silver looking one that looks like a jaw, those didn't open wide enough.

The nut on the end of the thread comes off, if you take that off the bolt and leave the castle nut on a few threads the bolt will go up into the nut and help hold it in place. With the nut on the tool it wants to slide off the castle nut.

I replaced ball joints few weeks ago and could not get the ball joint to separate from the knuckle with a pickle fork or hammer. This makes it a lot easier. You might need to cut the boot on the old ball joint to help it fit in place. Then start turning the bolt on the tool. If it is still stubborn you can try just leaving the tool on for a bit. When I removed the second ball joint, I tightened it down and got tired and stopped for a minute, and then the thing suddenly POPPED and broke it loose.

View attachment 411708

Or just do the whole arm.