2012 Yukon XL SLT1500 Rotors & Brakes

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solosys

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My '12 Yukon XL has reached about 160K (acquired with 140k) and it's time to change the front brakes. I've decided to purchase the GM OE front rotors and pads.

I was able to find the rotors: 22950036, and Front brakes kit: 19369415, at GMPartsGiant, and looking to do the work myself. Other than greasing components properly, should I resurface the hub as well? I haven't taken a look at it so I'm not sure if that's required yet. Is there anything else that is recommended to do or precautions I should take?
 

Geotrash

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My '12 Yukon XL has reached about 160K (acquired with 140k) and it's time to change the front brakes. I've decided to purchase the GM OE front rotors and pads.

I was able to find the rotors: 22950036, and Front brakes kit: 19369415, at GMPartsGiant, and looking to do the work myself. Other than greasing components properly, should I resurface the hub as well? I haven't taken a look at it so I'm not sure if that's required yet. Is there anything else that is recommended to do or precautions I should take?
+1^^^ to the post above mine. You're right at the point that the front wheel bearings start to go south. Might as well replace those while you're in there. Timken or OEM only.

Take a close look at the ball joints and tie rod ends as well. Make sure they're tight and that their grease boots are still intact. Now would be a good time to also replace the front sway bar bushings and links. Easy job, and yours are probably about done.
 

swathdiver

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My '12 Yukon XL has reached about 160K (acquired with 140k) and it's time to change the front brakes. I've decided to purchase the GM OE front rotors and pads.

I was able to find the rotors: 22950036, and Front brakes kit: 19369415, at GMPartsGiant, and looking to do the work myself. Other than greasing components properly, should I resurface the hub as well? I haven't taken a look at it so I'm not sure if that's required yet. Is there anything else that is recommended to do or precautions I should take?

Consider rebuilding your calipers or replacing them with new ones. I did just the fronts and a year later a piston hung up on one side and had to it all over again.

Also consider putting in new bushings in the caliper bracket, either 18K1169 or 18K1863 or 25910433, you decide.

Drag reduction clips are good for about a quarter mpg. I have the old uncoated ones and they are probably worn out now, new ones should last longer.

It's about time for control arms, inner and outer tie rods and well, everything in each wheel well! No, the hubs don't require resurfacing, just use a wire brush to clean them and don't forget that little screw that locks the disc to the hub, it is supposed to be there and not optional. Pain to get out, had to use an impact screwdriver.

Bolt, Brake Rotor 11609271 M8 x 1.25 x 20 Hillman 44538 Crown Bolt 15888 Everbilt 844118

If yours is AWD/4x4 the spindle nut is one time use only. Takes a 35mm socket. Dorman replacement is 36mm. 177 foot pounds of torque.
 
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solosys

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Consider rebuilding your calipers or replacing them with new ones. I did just the fronts and a year later a piston hung up on one side and had to it all over again.

Also consider putting in new bushings in the caliper bracket, either 18K1169 or 18K1863 or 25910433, you decide.

Drag reduction clips are good for about a quarter mpg. I have the old uncoated ones and they are probably worn out now, new ones should last longer.

It's about time for control arms, inner and outer tie rods and well, everything in each wheel well! No, the hubs don't require resurfacing, just use a wire brush to clean them and don't forget that little screw that locks the disc to the hub, it is supposed to be there and not optional. Pain to get out, had to use an impact screwdriver.

Bolt, Brake Rotor 11609271 M8 x 1.25 x 20 Hillman 44538 Crown Bolt 15888 Everbilt 844118

If yours is AWD/4x4 the spindle nut is one time use only. Takes a 35mm socket. Dorman replacement is 36mm. 177 foot pounds of torque.
Yes mine is 4WD. Thanks for the heads up on th spindle but.

By the way I went with GM OE rotors and the following brake pads: Disc Brake Pad Set-Performance Ultra Premium Ceramic Pads Front Akebono ASP1363.

I'm still trying to locate OEM hubs.
 

swathdiver

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Yes mine is 4WD. Thanks for the heads up on th spindle but.

By the way I went with GM OE rotors and the following brake pads: Disc Brake Pad Set-Performance Ultra Premium Ceramic Pads Front Akebono ASP1363.

I'm still trying to locate OEM hubs.
Think nothing of using the Timken SP500301 hubs.
 
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solosys

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Actually went with the Bosch QuietCast rotors with the Akebono pads. Discovered yesterday that one of my sway bar links is broken. Replacing with Energy Suspension is the general consensus or OEM?

As with other bushings, etc mentioned above, yes I will eventually get to them.
 

repairman54

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I have had Timkens and Moogs not last 25k miles in Malibu's and other cars and my Tahoe.
Hubs are hit and miss quality today, mostly made of Chinesium. OEM hubs didn't make it to 75k in my truck.
Currently testing a MEVO HD super duper one now in the RF. Has lasted 25k so far.
 

Dlayne

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Agreed with the bearing service / replacement. Right after I did my brakes, bearings went at 125k….
 

swathdiver

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I have had Timkens and Moogs not last 25k miles in Malibu's and other cars and my Tahoe.
Hubs are hit and miss quality today, mostly made of Chinesium. OEM hubs didn't make it to 75k in my truck.
Currently testing a MEVO HD super duper one now in the RF. Has lasted 25k so far.
It's critical that the new spindle nut be torqued to 177 foot pounds and not just tight. They fail earlier when not tightened properly.

In my case, the Yukon's OE hubs went 117K and 136K and their Timkin replacements are around 45K and 64K. Curiously, the lifted Sierra is still wearing her original hubs and she's at around 150k now and been lifted most of that time.
 

Dustin Jackson

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It's critical that the new spindle nut be torqued to 177 foot pounds and not just tight. They fail earlier when not tightened properly.

In my case, the Yukon's OE hubs went 117K and 136K and their Timkin replacements are around 45K and 64K. Curiously, the lifted Sierra is still wearing her original hubs and she's at around 150k now and been lifted most of that time.
@swathdiver What part is the spindle nut? I am not familiar with that term?
 

swathdiver

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@swathdiver What part is the spindle nut? I am not familiar with that term?

The spindle is the end of the CV Shaft that goes through the hub. 11609826 and 15522089. Dorman 05177 or 615-095 and 618-057. Also known as M24 x 2 x 22

Stock socket size is 35mm, Dorman are 36mm.

I've noticed that there's usually no dust covers over the nut, at least on the 4wd models

My 2009 doesn't have the covers but both pickups have them. Lost over the years or never had them to begin with?
 

tungsten

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The spindle is the end of the CV Shaft that goes through the hub. 11609826 and 15522089. Dorman 05177 or 615-095 and 618-057. Also known as M24 x 2 x 22

Stock socket size is 35mm, Dorman are 36mm.



My 2009 doesn't have the covers but both pickups have them. Lost over the years or never had them to begin with?
All my trucks have them but my 2500 yukon doesn't.Thought they were lost also.Weird.
 
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My 2009 doesn't have the covers but both pickups have them. Lost over the years or never had them to begin with?
My 2011 didn't have them but I bought some Dorman ones and put them on.

My 2012 doesn't have them either.

I can't remember specifically if my 2001 has them or not, but I'm thinking not.
 

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