My Project Tahoe

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MassHoe04

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I was active in a Jeep forum over the previous three years, going from an 05 Wrangler Rubicon to my current 04 Tahoe Z71... There was constant chatter about "Death Wobble" on there and people having to change underwear as a result.

In a lot of those cases with the Jeeps, the main causes came back to either: 1) Bad Track Bar (worn bushings, missing bushings, or damaged bar) or worn drag bar connections between the pitman arm and the tie rod.

Driving slow, things would be fine. Hit a bump or road defect at a certain speed, then all hell breaks loose with the steering wheel shaking side to side until you slow down or come to complete stop.

Issue with the Jeeps that were lifted seemed to amplify the problem of the worn or damaged parts by changing the alignments of things like the track bar, tie rod and drag link.

Our trucks don't have live axles using a track bar to keep it centered. But, maybe you do have something going on in the front end that is amplifying a reaction to worn or damaged parts that are now in an alignment that is out of normal factory specifications.

The drop may be pointing to something else needing attention.

I'll be interested to see what you find out! Keep us posted.
 

Rocket Man

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Hope you get that wobble figured out. When I dropped mine 2/4 I went with Belltech stuff and it drives straight as an arrow. I’m using Belltech shocks in the front and Arnott air springs in the rear to maintain self leveling for towing. Mine has the Z55 RPO though. For your ZW7 RPO you’ll need the correct premium smooth ride shocks which are expensive as hell or possibly you can run Bilsteins but either way the springs probably need to be different. I would check to see if Bliistein has lowering springs that work with the ZW7. Also, it’s important to use shock extenders which increase the distance between the shock mounts to make up for the lowering or else your shocks bottom out. I’m not a fan of Crown Suspension myself but others have had good success with it. I’d say those rear springs you have aren’t right for your truck though.
 
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DadsToy

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So have new shocks on order and should be here today. So just in time for a good weekend project and another good work out. Will see if the shocks improve the ride. I have no doubt that is the issue. But I think the rear springs are not strong enough. I would be better off cutting the original springs down. I have shock extenders on already. I also increase the air pressure in the bags. That help, but it raised the height up. Will be good for the tow. Another issue is still the front steering. After the alignment done and have been driving for awhile. Things have settled in. Now its gone loose again. So tighten up the steering box some. That help. Its the play in the steering wheel is the issue. So dumb me I didn't replace the center drag link. That's next on the list. Then everything will be new.
Also found out I don't have heat. No air coming out of the floor. So figure its the blend door actuator motor not working. Should be an easy fix.
 
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DadsToy

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Was a pretty day so took on the project of installing my New shocks. Got a good work out and only took about 1 1/2 hours. Installed KYB Mono-Max shocks. I have to say it improved the handling quit a bit. When you turn into a corner it doesn't lean and doesn't stay in the corner. Levels out as soon as you go straight. Added about 16 lbs to the bags. I think I might have a leak. With air in the bags it raises up the back about 2". But once you put a load on the back it levels out where its supposed to go. I had to move my Daughter into her new house today. Was a good test to see how it performed. You can really load up the back with a lot of weight!! Without the back weighed down. It has a bounce. Believe that is the cause of the new springs. The old shocks where bad. I could push them down with no or little resistance. The front ones you could push in and wouldn't recoil back. Also the rubber bushings were wasted. Only concern with the KYB shocks is they didn't take the metal insert on the front shocks that the original ones had. But the new rubbers fit into the mounting holes just fine. So in short looks like I fix part of my issue. Adjust the air in the bags so they don't bounce,8lbs. Still have the issue with the front steering loose. Progress is always good.
IMG_2558.JPG
 

Rocket Man

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Was a pretty day so took on the project of installing my New shocks. Got a good work out and only took about 1 1/2 hours. Installed KYB Mono-Max shocks. I have to say it improved the handling quit a bit. When you turn into a corner it doesn't lean and doesn't stay in the corner. Levels out as soon as you go straight. Added about 16 lbs to the bags. I think I might have a leak. With air in the bags it raises up the back about 2". But once you put a load on the back it levels out where its supposed to go. I had to move my Daughter into her new house today. Was a good test to see how it performed. You can really load up the back with a lot of weight!! Without the back weighed down. It has a bounce. Believe that is the cause of the new springs. The old shocks where bad. I could push them down with no or little resistance. The front ones you could push in and wouldn't recoil back. Also the rubber bushings were wasted. Only concern with the KYB shocks is they didn't take the metal insert on the front shocks that the original ones had. But the new rubbers fit into the mounting holes just fine. So in short looks like I fix part of my issue. Adjust the air in the bags so they don't bounce,8lbs. Still have the issue with the front steering loose. Progress is always good.
View attachment 386072
Any reason you didn’t go with the Bilsteins recommended by a few of us?
 
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DadsToy

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Any reason you didn’t go with the Bilsteins recommended by a few of us?
Yes, Couple of reasons. One was price. This is a budget build and trying to get the most done with what little money I can get by with. Save over $100 by not going with Bilsteins. I compared both shocks and they seemed to be the same. Remember I am going to be towing. The Mono-Max shocks are designed for trucks and heavy loads. And Vehicles that weigh more and have a bigger foot print. Plus they are rated for off road. So when I am towing the camper over gravel roads they self adjust for a smooth ride. So far they are performing as designed. It takes corners really good and rebounds / recover great. Step in the right direction....lol
 

Rocket Man

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Yes, Couple of reasons. One was price. This is a budget build and trying to get the most done with what little money I can get by with. Save over $100 by not going with Bilsteins. I compared both shocks and they seemed to be the same. Remember I am going to be towing. The Mono-Max shocks are designed for trucks and heavy loads. And Vehicles that weigh more and have a bigger foot print. Plus they are rated for off road. So when I am towing the camper over gravel roads they self adjust for a smooth ride. So far they are performing as designed. It takes corners really good and rebounds / recover great. Step in the right direction....lol
Fair enough. The Bilsteins work great for towing too especially when combined with helper bags like you have but I totally understand the cost decision. Are you still looking at getting different springs?
 
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DadsToy

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Fair enough. The Bilsteins work great for towing too especially when combined with helper bags like you have but I totally understand the cost decision. Are you still looking at getting different springs?
Haven't decided about getting different springs just yet. If I do, I don't know which ones to get. Everyone said the bilsteins are softer. I don't need softer. Worst case would be take the originals and cut them down.
 
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DadsToy

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Today's project; Side Mirrors not working.
Sometimes the mirrors would work and other times they would only work in one direction. Thought about going to the PPL and getting an old switch. Problem with that is the old unit is out in the rain. Or you don't know if it works. If it did work you don't know how long it would work after installing. A quick trip to Amazon, $11 and 2 day shipping solved the problem. New is always good. Was going to cost the same as the old PPL unit.
20221128_131525.jpg

Good old Harbor Freight Interior tool. There are 2 clips under this panel. Just pry up and it should pop out.
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Once you have the panel out. Use small screw drivers to release the tabs on the mirror switch. But remove the wire connector first. Then Push on the switch to pop it out.
20221128_131905 (3).jpg

Now my clips came off the panel. Had to remove them from the door card and place them back onto the panel. Just pop the panel back into place and all done. I did test the switch before mounting everything back. Works, have side mirror control again. Cheap fix and only took 10min.
 

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Tonyrodz

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Today's project; Side Mirrors not working.
Sometimes the mirrors would work and other times they would only work in one direction. Thought about going to the PPL and getting an old switch. Problem with that is the old unit is out in the rain. Or you don't know if it works. If it did work you don't know how long it would work after installing. A quick trip to Amazon, $11 and 2 day shipping solved the problem. New is always good. Was going to cost the same as the old PPL unit.
View attachment 386180
Good old Harbor Freight Interior tool. There are 2 clips under this panel. Just pry up and it should pop out.
View attachment 386181
View attachment 386182
Once you have the panel out. Use small screw drivers to release the tabs on the mirror switch. But remove the wire connector first. Then Push on the switch to pop it out.
View attachment 386183
Now my clips came off the panel. Had to remove them from the door card and place them back onto the panel. Just pop the panel back into place and all done. I did test the switch before mounting everything back. Works, have side mirror control again. Cheap fix and only took 10min.
Take the old one apart and clean the contacts for the mirror switch. Should be gtg after that.
 

Rocket Man

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Haven't decided about getting different springs just yet. If I do, I don't know which ones to get. Everyone said the bilsteins are softer. I don't need softer. Worst case would be take the originals and cut them down.
As far as lowering springs, they should state they’re compatible with the Premium Smooth Ride that your truck has. Cutting down your originals will result in unknown ride quality and height. I know you said your doing a budget build but suspension and steering should be priority. It’s pretty important. Here’s some Belltech that are advertised for a 3” drop with your truck. They’re not cheap but if you’re getting a high speed wobble you could lose control in the wrong situation and that would really cost you.

 

Rocket Man

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Take the old one apart and clean the contacts for the mirror switch. Should be gtg after that.
That’s what I did to mine a few months ago, now they work every time. I’ve bought those cheap switches before, for my Silverado, and they didn’t last long. Don’t throw those old OEM switches away!
 

TollKeeper

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I am wondering if the death wobble if its not your pitman arm, or the idler arm.. The idler arm is a known common wear item, and does a lot for a death wobble situation. Cheap, and easy to replace.. But I would think the alignment shop would have caught that if it was the issue... If they were making sure the steering was in good shape first.
 

Rocket Man

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I totally agree with @Rocket Man , I would not try to save a few bucks on a supper critical component.
We have had at least one other member here I can remember who had a similar death wobble after he put too soft of springs in the rear. It makes the read end feel “squishy” and it starts to sway back and forth iirc.
 
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DadsToy

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We have had at least one other member here I can remember who had a similar death wobble after he put too soft of springs in the rear. It makes the read end feel “squishy” and it starts to sway back and forth iirc.
Makes since. I'll have to check out the other lowering springs and see if it makes a difference. Its ok in town for right now. But worry about highway speeds would intensify the issue.
 
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DadsToy

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I am wondering if the death wobble if its not your pitman arm, or the idler arm.. The idler arm is a known common wear item, and does a lot for a death wobble situation. Cheap, and easy to replace.. But I would think the alignment shop would have caught that if it was the issue... If they were making sure the steering was in good shape first.
That is my next step. If that doesn't improve things, I'll try the steering box.
 
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DadsToy

DadsToy

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As far as lowering springs, they should state they’re compatible with the Premium Smooth Ride that your truck has. Cutting down your originals will result in unknown ride quality and height. I know you said your doing a budget build but suspension and steering should be priority. It’s pretty important. Here’s some Belltech that are advertised for a 3” drop with your truck. They’re not cheap but if you’re getting a high speed wobble you could lose control in the wrong situation and that would really cost you.

Thanks so much for the link. The price of just those springs is the total price of my Crown kit with the drop spindles...lol Would like to get them and try them out. But what to do with the other ones. Plus I have my air bag system in the springs. Be a challenge to get them out out of the springs.
 

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