High idle after changing PCV hose

[drewtx154]

Good evening all! I have a 2002 Tahoe 5.3 2wd that I just got back into acceptable running quality the day before Thanksgiving. Took me a while but I got it done. Before hand I had Service engine soon light on and bought a cheap code reader and it showed low voltage to knock sensors bank 1 & 2 along with a cylinder 8 misfire code about 2 weeks later.... Started running super rough so I parked it and started researching and gathering all parts I needed. I ended up getting both knock sensors, along with harness, new valley cover gasket, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gaskets, new oil pressure sensor, new heater hose connectors (cuz one of them was leaking into the ignition coil underneath it and a few other small things. Started working on it after I got out of work on the weekdays and on the weekends. Took me about a week and a half cuz I'm a single dad, and I'm not a mechanic but I'm also not an idiot and can learn when applying myself. Anyway all was good and during the time of working on vehicle I read about the oil consumption issue and saw how it gets into intake man, and the like. I order a new fixed office PCV hose cuz I have the rattle variety and was pretty dirty with oil and thought would be a good idea to change that as well. So while waiting for hose cuz that took the longest to get I fixed everything and everything turned out great, vehicle was running strong and everything seemed well. I got the new PCV hose in Friday and I got around to changing it last night and as I was doing that I went ahead and rerouted my throttle cables cuz they were running underneath my engine wire harness and that was making the harness sit up a little high to have my top engine cover installed a little crooked. Also the new PCV hose of course was a nice tight seal coming from the intake, the old was had a little crack on that end and was a lot easier to remove/install. Anyway I did that and closed the hood and went to bed. This afternoon I went for a trip to the local Wally world and upon starting my Tahoe it was idling over 2000 rpm and not at all coming down. Thinking it just needed to break in the new PCV hose just installed I put it into reverse to leave and it shifted hard and made a huge thump. Enough for my 6 year old to say "dad what was that?" So I put it back into park and shut it down. I went ahead and put my old PCV hose back on cuz all was good before I changed that and messed with the throttle cables, but now it's still idling high. Not as high as when I had the new PCV hose but it will not come down under 1000 rpm and is still shifting hard into reverse and when I put it in park the roma creep back up close to 2000... I'm gonna go out there and mess with the throttle cables again and see if maybe I set the adjustment screw too tight because I failed to mention that last night I did adjust it from it's original position but I'm kinda freaked out now cuz I just got it back into good shape and I regret messing with that hose last night and should of just kept well alone cuz all was good in my world.... Yes I have other issues to tend to on the Tahoe but doin what I did last night was not at all a priority until I made it one and I need my vehicle as it's my only one. So any advice, knowledge, clues, etc is super welcomed and encouraged and very much appreciated... If anyone needs more info or pics or whatever please don't hesitate to ask cuz with every notification I get on my phone I will be checking it promptly cuz I just want to get it back to good running quality like I had it... Thank you and God bless!!

 

[rockola1971]

What "adjustment screw" are you talking about? PCV hose aint causing the high idle. Put the new one back on.

 

[OR VietVet]

I agree with @rockola1971, put the new hose back on. You messed with throttle cables and moved from where they were factory mounted? Is that what you are saying? Take a pic and show us what you did and this screw you talk about. If you do adjust "A" screw, does the idle change? You have the throttle cable design and not the drive by wire set up on the newer NBS rigs. Sounds like a binding cable?

 

[drewtx154]

Im an idiot I forgot to take off the neg battery cable when I changed the hose and messed with the throttle cables. I got to thinking about it last night after I made this post. So I went out and took it off and went to bed. Woke up and connected it and all good now. Sorry for being a noob lol... Lesson learned! Thanks tho!!! I will put the hose back on when I get home from work

 

[drewtx154]

Im an idiot I forgot to take off the neg battery cable when I changed the hose and messed with the throttle cables. I got to thinking about it last night after I made this post. So I went out and took it off and went to bed. Woke up and connected it and all good now. Sorry for being a noob lol... Lesson learned! Thanks tho!!! I will put the hose back on when I get home from work

Edit: put the new PCV hose back on. I have the old one on there now

 

[OR VietVet]

Edit: put the new PCV hose back on. I have the old one on there now

I am completely confused by this statement. What am I missing?

Hold it, I think I get it now. You are referring to your last sentence about the promise to put "the hose" back on. I am old. Just "edit" instead of confusing me. I still say you should not mess with the factory location of the throttle cable mounting, unless you are trying to actually put back to factory set up after all the reassembly from all the previous work you did.

 

[Sam Harris]

I am completely confused by this statement. What am I missing?

Hold it, I think I get it now. You are referring to your last sentence about the promise to put "the hose" back on. I am old. Just "edit" instead of confusing me. I still say you should not mess with the factory location of the throttle cable mounting, unless you are trying to actually put back to factory set up after all the reassembly from all the previous work you did.

Agree. There shouldn’t be any reason to move it. I guess til he ‘02 and older rigs were still DBC. My ‘03 is a DBW. Either way, moving that cable seems like an invitation for trouble, unless it wasn’t in the factory location before..?

 

[drewtx154]

Well sorry to confuse anybody with my statements or "edits". But I guess to confuse anyone/everyone a little bit more when I left work today I notice I'm still idling high , not as bad but I know it's not normal operating idle.... So let me get a picture of that "screw" I was adjusting on the throttle cable and also show you how it is positioned as of now and then y'all can correct me if I'm totally messing up the factory location or not. I appreciate any help or constructive criticism from the knowledgeable folks on the forum. Thank you




adjustment screw I was talking about and below is how throttle cables are currently positioned

 

[drewtx154]

I will add a couple more details. my CEL is not on, and I do have generic access to live data. What should I be on the lookout for in terms of the data? Also when replacing the intake manifold during previous work I did rip one of the bolt grommets and it does "pancake" out on one side of the bolt head.... And my MAP sensor has a little small rip on the orange rubber ring that seals it? Maybe that new PCV some manage to cause one of these to start acting up?? ... Idk I'm just trying to give as much detailed info as I can. Thank you again heses a pic of new and old PCV

 

[OR VietVet]

When at idle, is the throttle plate completely closed? Turn that "screw" and loosen that cable tension slightly and see if throttle speed drops.

 

[Sam Harris]

Pretty sure any intake leak is a quite common cause for a high idle. That was my first thought, but you threw me off with the throttle cable / linkage info.

 

[rockola1971]

When at idle, is the throttle plate completely closed? Turn that "screw" and loosen that cable tension slightly and see if throttle speed drops.

Yep. That screw is there as a connection point between the cable and the throttle plate. It allows adjustment for a slack/stretched cable. It is NOT to be used as a idle adjustment. The days of idle screw adjustment are long gone since carbs have been replaced with fuel injection. The PCM adjusts the idle via the IAC (Idle Air Control Motor). Likely his high idle problem is because he has that screw adjusted to where it is pulling the throttle plate open. The throttle plate should be fully closed while in park at idle. Adjust that screw out until it is.

 

[SpineDock]

So what was the verdict @drewtx154??

 

[Doubeleive]

So what was the verdict @drewtx154??

my guess besides the cable being messed with and/or a dirty iac, they get coated with carbon just like the throttle it can be taken off and and cleaned and the cavity inside the housing can be cleaned as well

 

[nonickatall]

When at idle, is the throttle plate completely closed? Turn that "screw" and loosen that cable tension slightly and see if throttle speed drops.

I think as well at this is the problem.
I would remove the cable from the throttle again and start the engine without the cable.

if you then still have a high idle, you have an air leakage or a problem with the iac.

If the idle is okay, you have tension on the throttle or cruise control cable.

 

[drewtx154]

my guess besides the cable being messed with and/or a dirty iac, they get coated with carbon just like the throttle it can be taken off and and cleaned and the cavity inside the housing can be cleaned as well

Haha verdict is that I'm an idiot... But seriously after I read over one some of the initial comments posted on my thread I went and looked over the throttle cable adjustment screw and realized I had taken pictures of my engine before I ever put my hands on it and was able to determine that I had my throttle cable adjustment "screw" (idk if that's the proper term or not) set in the opposite end of the spectrum. So I readjusted according to my pic and everything was all good. Sometimes I jump to conclusions way too early! That's a personal problem I gota learn to tone down lol. But thanks for asking... And thanks to those that chimed in to help a novice

 

[drewtx154]

But I got another issue (several actually)....but one I'm kinda stumped on.... Idk if I should start another thread or just keep goin on this one??? But I can't seem to figure out how to release my spare tire. I've watched plenty of videos and read several threads on the crappy design of the safety latch mechanism being rusty and etc.... Problem is I can't get mine to come down at all. It is completely stuck at the very top with zero slack in the cable. I've jammed a screwdriver up inside the mechanism like the videos show after spraying it down with PB blaster and couldn't get it to release. Only thing I can think of to do next is to somehow either cut the cable holding up the spare tire or unbolt the winch mechanism but I can't get anything close to the bolt where it is mounted on. There seems to be no room from the top side of spare to get to the winch... So idk what to do... Every video I've seen has been able to slightly lower their tire a few inches or so but mine won't move a millimeter.

 

[Sam Harris]

But I got another issue (several actually)....but one I'm kinda stumped on.... Idk if I should start another thread or just keep goin on this one??? But I can't seem to figure out how to release my spare tire. I've watched plenty of videos and read several threads on the crappy design of the safety latch mechanism being rusty and etc.... Problem is I can't get mine to come down at all. It is completely stuck at the very top with zero slack in the cable. I've jammed a screwdriver up inside the mechanism like the videos show after spraying it down with PB blaster and couldn't get it to release. Only thing I can think of to do next is to somehow either cut the cable holding up the spare tire or unbolt the winch mechanism but I can't get anything close to the bolt where it is mounted on. There seems to be no room from the top side of spare to get to the winch... So idk what to do... Every video I've seen has been able to slightly lower their tire a few inches or so but mine won't move a millimeter.

Are you using the spare tire kit? It’s a square rod on the end. I believe a 1/2”

 

[Doubeleive]

But I got another issue (several actually)....but one I'm kinda stumped on.... Idk if I should start another thread or just keep goin on this one??? But I can't seem to figure out how to release my spare tire. I've watched plenty of videos and read several threads on the crappy design of the safety latch mechanism being rusty and etc.... Problem is I can't get mine to come down at all. It is completely stuck at the very top with zero slack in the cable. I've jammed a screwdriver up inside the mechanism like the videos show after spraying it down with PB blaster and couldn't get it to release. Only thing I can think of to do next is to somehow either cut the cable holding up the spare tire or unbolt the winch mechanism but I can't get anything close to the bolt where it is mounted on. There seems to be no room from the top side of spare to get to the winch... So idk what to do... Every video I've seen has been able to slightly lower their tire a few inches or so but mine won't move a millimeter.

square female end goes in the hole, put 2 links together shove the female end in the hole, turn the rod slowly and push at the same time and you will feel it slip in and lock in place.
if that does not happen pull the rod out and look in there with a flashlight and see if there is anything blocking the hole, dirt/rock, whatever.
once the rod is in place turn it counterclockwise
if that doesn't work then try this

 

[OR VietVet]

Hopefully @Fless sees this and starts another thread. don't really want a completely, non engine/drivetrain problem, mixed with this thread.