Ball Joints and Sway Bar links

[gooffeyguy]

Curious, why did you go with two different brands of tie rods?

The tie rod bellows are of varying qualities; the GM OE stuff the best and uses the proper clamps to keep the boot waterproof.

I don't think the GM inners come with new bellows, only new clamps

 

[MarshMarlowe]

I don't think the GM inners come with new bellows, only new clamps

Correct. I had to reuse the original bellows

 

[gooffeyguy]

They are available seperately though if needed, but don't come with the inner rod ends.

 

[swathdiver]

I don't think the GM inners come with new bellows, only new clamps

Correct, I bought them separate and have two sets of clamps now.

 

[iamdub]

You said you replaced the rear shocks also. I think there's a wire harness/connector near where the upper shock bolt goes on the back side of the frame. This sometimes gets disconnected when removing that shock bolt.

There is, on top of the frame, almost right in line with the bolt head. If you even so much as think of removing that bolt, the connector comes unplugged.

*EDIT* I see this was covered a few posts later.

 

[gooffeyguy]

There is, on top of the frame, almost right in line with the bolt head. If you even so much as think of removing that bolt, the connector comes unplugged.

*EDIT* I see this was covered a few posts later.

When I replaced my rear shocks a couple years ago I didn't have a problem with that connector coming unplugged.

The shock instructions did warn about it though, and many people on here have had the problem, so I went into the job aware of it and was just careful when messing with that top bolt. Using the correct combination of socket and extention might have helped also.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

There is, on top of the frame, almost right in line with the bolt head. If you even so much as think of removing that bolt, the connector comes unplugged.

*EDIT* I see this was covered a few posts later.

It's amazing that the connector doesn't just jiggle loose on its own

 

[iamdub]

When I replaced my rear shocks a couple years ago I didn't have a problem with that connector coming unplugged.

The shock instructions did warn about it though, and many people on here have had the problem, so I went into the job aware of it and was just careful when messing with that top bolt. Using the correct combination of socket and extention might have helped also.

Show off.

I knew about it and still knocked it loose during my lowering job. Of course, I used an impact fed by a 3/8" hose from a 60-gallon compressor at 150 psi and immediately went WOT to vehemently release all of its ugga duggas on that bolt. Because wrench monkey.

 

[iamdub]

It's amazing that the connector doesn't just jiggle loose on its own

Indeed. At least it's a well-known and documented issue with an easy fix.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Hey again everyone. I just got the Tahoe back from the shop

They did an alignment and an AC diagnosis. They found the AC held pressure, but it had just under a pound of freon, so they recharged it. All seems well now

I'm not sure how long the ball joints, tie rods, Sway Bar links, and shocks were bad, but the truck feels better than ever now. It used to handle like a covered wagon hauling a bathtub half full of water, but now it's so stable on the road.

Man what a difference

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you for reporting back on the results of your project. Congratulations on completing it.

I had the same issue of a disconnected electrical connector when I changed out my rear shocks. My Tech 2 lead me directly to the source of the issue.

 

[OR VietVet]

Great you got work done and handles great.

Be aware, the a/c system has a leak and now with a full charge the system has more pressure and will leak again, but how quick, I have no idea. The system is designed to not run low on refrigerant unless it has a leak. If that slow and was not empty, I suspect a shrader vale that leaks slow under the caps or another seal on a connection(s).

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Great you got work done and handles great.

Be aware, the a/c system has a leak and now with a full charge the system has more pressure and will leak again, but how quick, I have no idea. The system is designed to not run low on refrigerant unless it has a leak. If that slow and was not empty, I suspect a shrader vale that leaks slow under the caps or another seal on a connection(s).

Yeah. They added some dye to the system and advised I bring it back if it stops blowing cool again

 

[OR VietVet]

Yeah. They added some dye to the system and advised I bring it back if it stops blowing cool again

That is good info. Might want to not wait that long for the check. Maybe drive a month and check. You can also look at any connections and at center front of a/c compressor for wet looking dirt. When it leaks, a/c oil comes out and will look wet and dirt under hood will cling there.