Lowered Tahoe

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Edwardnavalo

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Ok I recently bought this Tahoe , it has a 4 inch drop in the rear , do you think as long as I get the correct shock it would get rid of the moving side to side when I’m at around 65 mph
I will be checking the front just as you have told me
 
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Edwardnavalo

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iamdub

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The front doesn’t feel bad , the front is lowered an inch . In the rear it feels as if there is no shock , it makes sense now that tonyrodz explained it to me , how the shocks that are on it right now are no good , I’m going to get the bilsteins.

Them KYB Excel-G shocks seem to be junk in any form. I put some Excel-G struts on a compact car- super stiff.

I meant have you checked the end links in the front, regardless of the amount of lowering. They're a common wear item and are often broken and not even noticed. Check the condition of the jounce stops. They look like bump stops.


*EDIT* I see Fless has already got your back on this.
 

LordWayback

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Them KYB Excel-G shocks seem to be junk in any form. I put some Excel-G struts on a compact car- super stiff.

I meant have you checked the end links in the front, regardless of the amount of lowering. They're a common wear item and are often broken and not even noticed. Check the condition of the jounce stops. They look like bump stops.


*EDIT* I see Fless has already got your back on this.

I crashed a shitbox with those things the steering reaction is garbage.
 

Tonyrodz

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I honestly don't remember what part number I got. Will you keep the current springs that you have now? If they're the stock ZW7 springs that's probably the other half of your issue. You need to know what springs you have to know which shock to order.
 
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Edwardnavalo

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I use an adjustable set that came with my Hellwig swaybars.View attachment 378811View attachment 378812
I honestly don't remember what part number I got. Will you keep the current springs that you have now? If they're the stock ZW7 springs that's probably the other half of your issue. You need to know what springs you have to know which shock to order.
Im honestly not sure which ones I have ,all the previous owner told me it was on a 4 inch drop in the rear . Do you think I should just get the ones that pop up for the year make and model of my Tahoe ? Do I need shorter shocks ? Or would the ones with the Oem length be ok? As long as they are for zw7 suspension . I’m guessing I still have the zw7 and maybe that’s why I’m having the problems I have
 

Tonyrodz

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Im honestly not sure which ones I have ,all the previous owner told me it was on a 4 inch drop in the rear . Do you think I should just get the ones that pop up for the year make and model of my Tahoe ? Do I need shorter shocks ? Or would the ones with the Oem length be ok? As long as they are for zw7 suspension . I’m guessing I still have the zw7 and maybe that’s why I’m having the problems I have
Can you ask the former owner what springs are in it? I totally deleted all of the ZW7 rear components from mine. I bought a lowering kit from crownsuspension.com. Iirc, it was a 2/3 kit. Came with front lowering keys, rear lowering springs and lowering shock brackets. Think everything was under $300. You can use stock length rear shocks if you use those shock brackets. It rides ok, but if you hit a big bump or dip at speed it'll bottom out, so you just need to go slow over those. Once I did all this I've had no issues. You might have to start from scratch--which might not be a bad thing. At least you'll know what's there.
 
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Edwardnavalo

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Check the front sway bar links and make sure they're in place and in good condition. Also the front jounce stops need to be contacting the lower control arms.

Lots of people make the mistake of changing the ZW7 suspension by replacing the Nivomat shocks (the G65 RPO code) with standard shocks, and without going to a firmer spring. Makes things really squirrely.

@Tonyrodz that driver's side parking brake cable should be under the sway bar (same as the passenger cable there). Like this:

View attachment 378820
 

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Edwardnavalo

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Yup, those kyb's are terrible. Does it ride stiffer now? Still low, or did the rearend raise up?
Yeah they were , those shocks that were on there were from a Mitsubishi montero and yeah a little stiff and it did raise up a little bit but I am happy how it got rid of that moving side to side on the freeway
 

thingraylinetah

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Them KYB Excel-G shocks seem to be junk in any form. I put some Excel-G struts on a compact car- super stiff.

I meant have you checked the end links in the front, regardless of the amount of lowering. They're a common wear item and are often broken and not even noticed. Check the condition of the jounce stops. They look like bump stops.


*EDIT* I see Fless has already got your back on this.

Well on my subaru forester I used wrx kyb excel g shock bodies with Koni yellow inserts with wrx/sti springs that with the two upgraded sway bars and front and rear end link up grade worked really good together.
 

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