Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

Then onto the Hoist.

Since I decided i didn't want to fight that old beat hydraulic ram, I decided I wanted a new one.
And the new one, I decided to spring for the Pnuematic version at HF.

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

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This thing was an absolute delight to use.

Doing this myself, it was like having a third hand.
I could work the handles in the back and lift at the same time.
Fantastic!

 

[Just Fishing]

And of course, the heater.
It's working fantastic in my garage.
It takes a while to get the garage up to temp.
but with it 20 degrees outside, I had no problem getting my garage to a comfortable 73 degrees.

I found it seems to work best if I let it heat the fk out of the top of the garage for a while, and then kick on a fan to spread it out.
After it gets the temp above freezing, it warms up quickly.

 

[Just Fishing]

Well some of what I thought was metal, actually looked "Creamy" to me.
So I'm like ??!?!

Stuck my finger in it, and it hit me.
White Molly lube that i used on the new bearings i installed for the last test!

Phew!
Looking much better.

 

[Just Fishing]

Last night I decided to cut open the last filter.
I noticed some color coming out of the filter when draining upside down in the pan.

Cut it open and confirmed, no metal!

I'm feeling much better about this.

One concern, the blocked/restricted cooler line is supposed to feed "Rear lube"
I was concerned that if i do have a damaged pump, and that i bypassed the coolers.
I could have pushed some of that right into the lube circuit.

Reviewing my ATSG manual, I see that the cooler line circuit feeds right into the valve body.
I didn't do much digging past that, but the hope is the screen in the valve body protected the fragile parts.

There is also the possibility that the metal i found was a leftover of the old converter.
I did hear some sounds that could have been coming from the original converter when this all started with the 5.3.
But I won't know until i'm ready to dig into the transmission.

Either way, I'm feeling pretty confident about the possibility of me doing a rebuild of the transmission.
I'm going to need a few special tools beyond what I already have.
Mainly the massive snap ring tool required for the rear of the transmission.

When this all started, I had issues with the engine breaking of the transmission feeling like it disappeared.
So i'm concerned that i'll have damaged clutches.
If i need to replace a planetary set, then I have to prepare for some $$
Looking at them, it's not cheap.

 

[Just Fishing]

and then moving on to plans with the cooler lines.

I had some need to debur things + I hate working on vehicles with sharp edges.
I prefer to smooth edges wherever possible.

Especially where my hands are likely to end up during assembly or even maintenance down the road.
Usually, i do this with some somewhat fine files that i have.
Often not perfect, but good enough.

Then i watched a YouTube video where they used a debur tool
they used it to cut edges of the inside of tubes, and parts like a cylinder head.

I found this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2XR4P2?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I gave it a test on a few parts I have laying around.
And a big one was my new cold case radiator, tons of sharp edges, inside radius and outside flat corners.

The blade that came inserted into the tool worked fine, but i noticed it was not a smooth swivel.
So, i decided to try one of the replacement blades it came with.
Much better of a blade!
looks like the one that came installed in the tool is from a different supplier...

Working with tubing, I usually use a sharp bit and a fine round file to clean up the bur that's left over when using a rolling cutting tool
I'm expecting this to work much better and cleaner.
With AN, less scratches from what will end up as the sealing surface of the tube should be a good thing.

One thing I haven't found yet, a seller with the different types of blades that doesn't include the actual tool.


And then onto the radiator, the bottom mounts that were attached to the original was nasty.
Looked like I needed to replace them, but I decided to toss into the ultrasonic cleaner.

Currently this is loaded with mineral spirits and a half quart of transmission fluid.
I let it sit for a good hour with the heat on and vibrating doing its thing.
Came out clean and white!!

Turns out it's rubber lined plastic.
I assumed it was just a hard plastic mount.

Adding transmission fluid to the cleaner actually helped quite a bit for other things.
Originally, I did that to see if it would help loosen a stuck screw in that old Colt I picked up.

Answer was nope.

But it did help to free up the action quite a bit.
I forgot that I wanted to try Recyling some of the transmission fluid for to test in the cleaner.
but I should have enough left in the converter when I pull it...
I want to try a good 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and some other cleaner like mineral spirits or acetone...

 

[Just Fishing]

And I'm still pending pictures of the transmission pump, I'm still waiting for the pump rotor kit before i do a full assembly.
I'll get some pictures at that point.

I also have plans to clean up that new bellhousing before I put it together.

I had noticed some sharp edges and casting marks that I want to smooth out
Some of it will be a good test for my new deburring tool.

otherwise, it's getting some action from my wee belt sander.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OXJ8R0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love this thing; I have found so many uses for it.

Originally, I used it to help me remove some sealant for my motorhome re-roof project.
it worked pretty well, but the spinny parts got gummed up pretty badly as it worked its way through the hard sealant.


Beyond that i have found it's useful for many things and using the many different grits available for the belts, I can polish and sharpen things very quickly.
If I were to order it again, I would spring for the 1/2in belt version.

Its main uses is to sharpen my mower blades to a perfect razor sharpness every spring.
I even went as far as to extend the blade surface area, and to balance the blade afterwards.
Very handy little tool.
Like a file, but power!



And if you haven't noticed, I have an addiction to tools.
Especially air powered ones.

Another fine example of my addiction is my rivnut tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-PRN516-Quick-Change/dp/B01CYD2NS2

the one I have was a used unit I picked up off of Ebay for about $40.

This tool requires some careful thought when using.
Especially when setting smaller sized rivnuts.
It has more than enough power to break the setting mandrels.

And of course, it's an oddball size for the Allen key built into the head.

I was fortunate enough to receive a used unit where the prior owner had already modified the bit to accept common hardware store grade 8 bolts.
I keep several spares on hand, even knowing to use the minimum setting on the built-in regulator that will set the rivnut, it's very easy to give it too much power.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Last night I decided to cut open the last filter.
I noticed some color coming out of the filter when draining upside down in the pan.

Cut it open and confirmed, no metal!

I'm feeling much better about this.

One concern, the blocked/restricted cooler line is supposed to feed "Rear lube"
I was concerned that if i do have a damaged pump, and that i bypassed the coolers.
I could have pushed some of that right into the lube circuit.

Reviewing my ATSG manual, I see that the cooler line circuit feeds right into the valve body.
I didn't do much digging past that, but the hope is the screen in the valve body protected the fragile parts.

There is also the possibility that the metal i found was a leftover of the old converter.
I did hear some sounds that could have been coming from the original converter when this all started with the 5.3.
But I won't know until i'm ready to dig into the transmission.

Either way, I'm feeling pretty confident about the possibility of me doing a rebuild of the transmission.
I'm going to need a few special tools beyond what I already have.
Mainly the massive snap ring tool required for the rear of the transmission.

When this all started, I had issues with the engine breaking of the transmission feeling like it disappeared.
So i'm concerned that i'll have damaged clutches.
If i need to replace a planetary set, then I have to prepare for some $$
Looking at them, it's not cheap.

If you're that close, I'd go ahead and do the pump upgrades and maybe even replace the "valve body"on it. They say the 6 speeds are pretty simple to freshen up. I'm interested in the photos when you do it.

Do you have the manual showing how to rebuild it and what the tolerances and everything are? I have one for the 4L60 and its been super helpful, even have a video on it. I use it every time i build one.

We used one of those belt sanders to grind spot welds down. Works like a champ for that

 

[Just Fishing]

If you're that close, I'd go ahead and do the pump upgrades and maybe even replace the "valve body"on it. They say the 6 speeds are pretty simple to freshen up. I'm interested in the photos when you do it.

Do you have the manual showing how to rebuild it and what the tolerances and everything are? I have one for the 4L60 and its been super helpful, even have a video on it. I use it every time i build one.

We used one of those belt sanders to grind spot welds down. Works like a champ for that

Yeah, when I got this thing, I did the valve body work on it.
parts list is buried somewhere in this thread...
I pulled it for someone else and decided to drop it in here while I had the list handy.

I am for sure going to go through the valve body once more, cleaning and inspection.
I also want to check the pressure switches once more.
I did buy a refresh kit with seals and stuff, and I already have the Sonnax tool for installing them.

When I get there, I'll see if I can't dig up the part lists once more.

For the transmission, I located a few very detailed YouTube videos.
I also have the factory service manual that covers it in some detail, + i have the ATSG manual in both digital form and the book.
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012GWF8P6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I'll post some pictures when i dig into this thing.
At a minimum the pump is coming off.
Reviewing videos and the manual, it looks like I should be able to get away with it with the transmission on its side.
but if that drum sitting behind the pump moves forward, then I'm going to have issues with the clutches aligning with the splines...

So, I'm thinking I'll probably want to pull the transmission for good measure....

Shall see what happens in the end.
I would love to have this thing back on the road by April...

 

[pwtr02ss]

Yeah, when I got this thing, I did the valve body work on it.
parts list is buried somewhere in this thread...
I pulled it for someone else and decided to drop it in here while I had the list handy.

I am for sure going to go through the valve body once more, cleaning and inspection.
I also want to check the pressure switches once more.
I did buy a refresh kit with seals and stuff, and I already have the Sonnax tool for installing them.

When I get there, I'll see if I can't dig up the part lists once more.

For the transmission, I located a few very detailed YouTube videos.
I also have the factory service manual that covers it in some detail, + i have the ATSG manual in both digital form and the book.
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012GWF8P6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I'll post some pictures when i dig into this thing.
At a minimum the pump is coming off.
Reviewing videos and the manual, it looks like I should be able to get away with it with the transmission on its side.
but if that drum sitting behind the pump moves forward, then I'm going to have issues with the clutches aligning with the splines...

So, I'm thinking I'll probably want to pull the transmission for good measure....

Shall see what happens in the end.
I would love to have this thing back on the road by April...

You dug all that info up for me lol. Dads trans is doing ok so far. I think he's juts going to buy a new one and have it put in if something happens to it. I told him we could do the valve body stuff and see. He doesn't want to mess with it so it is what it is.

 

[Just Fishing]

as i'm slowly finding time to take things apart.
I finally tore the bandaid off and removed the heads.

Decided I have to do it.
Cam needs to come out so i can inspect the bearings.

I also noticed what appeared to be dirty looking oil, like it was left over from seating something.

Most seemed to come out around where the #1 cylinder spring sits.
So, I popped the spring out to have a look.

No issues found.
No weird wear looking stuff on the spring.
The double springs sit together very tightly.
So, I'm thinking it's from that...

Reading up, the fitment is normal and a good thing.
if they were loose, then the springs would be suspect...


I also have this weird tappy/rattle sound at light throttle and little to no load.
I'm starting to suspect it might be a side effect of the double springs.
Or it's the transmission pump...

Another thought is a bad lifter.
So, I focused on that one cylinder, I found this video talking about disassembly and cleaning of the LS7 lifters.

so far, no issues.
I went through 8 so far.
All had the same amount of black stuff at the bottom of the lifter.
Not much there, but more of a coating.

I assume it's left over from the break-in of the lifters...
So, I'm cleaning and inspecting each one as a part of this.

 

[Just Fishing]

Oh and my lifter trays that i modded look great still.
I have new ones on hand since i'm dumping that high volume oil pump.

 

[Just Fishing]

Making a slight edit to my transmission cooler line filter.

Pardon Our Interruption

www.summitracing.com

Since I was looking to add a power steering filter, I started looking at options.
It seems Derale has their own line that looks nearly identical to the true cooler ones.
This one uses more common filters, and it says it has 1/2in npt ports vs the 1/4 npt ports of the true cool one.

Big selling point is a filter like this bad boy.

Pardon Our Interruption

www.summitracing.com

I don't know if it will even clearance.
So, I ordered it as a test.

From there I can use wix's little filter search tool to tailor the length to match my needs.

 

[Just Fishing]

Engine torn apart, cam bearings look good.

Cylinder walls show some light streaking.
I noticed the same thing on the pistons.

Looks like some of the thrust bearing probably got thrown up into the cylinders and did some light damage.

It's not bad, but the cross hatching from the factory hone job was also pretty light.
So, I'm thinking a ding le berry hone is in order.

Since I know the cylinder is round, and nothing funky with it requiring a line hone.
the ding le berry hone should do perfect since it won't change any of the shape of the cylinder from what i read.

And I'm thinking about tossing a new set of piston rings for good measure, but the question is if i should even bother...
It's another $70...

But I don't see any damage to the piston other than the skirt.
Making me think it didn't get past the rings.
But it might have damaged the lower part of the oil ring....

Thoughts?

Or am I just over thinking this again?

ETA: Ding "le" is blocked?
we can try "ball hone" maybe?

 

[Just Fishing]

Oh, and I got the new filter housing.

Much better!
I did some light flowing of the housing.
Lots of material that's not used.

Probably not an issue, but since I have the tools...
The new filter is amazing.

I'll test fit it later and get some pictures.


I also decided to get some black 90's for the -8 AN fittings.

The colorful ones look cool under the hood, but I don't want it to stand out in the grill view...


And i got one of the transmission cooler lines made.
Calling it v1.1 beta.

Always fun to attempt to copy an existing line.
Not perfect so I had to do some manual straighten of the tube and re-bending

Not great looking but it will flow.
Now I get to copy that run for the return.
and if I get it figured out, then I'll probably try one more for a cleaner bend of the original.

But before I go much further, I'm waiting for the engine to be installed.
I need to make sure the new run clearances everything before I commit another long run of tubing...

I also needed to buy a new tubing bender.

My summit racing branded 37 degree flaring tool luckily does 1/2in tube, but my $11 bending tool does not.

So i went on the search for something that would do 1/2in.


Lead me here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P8UUD2?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Compared to my old bender, this thing is amazing!

I made a mistake when I originally ordered it, and bought the other one with "roto lock indexing"
but when received, I noticed it only goes to 3/8in tube.


I had hoped to do a quick cleaning and inspection of the engine, and then a reassemble this weekend.
But I'm held up on a decision.


And I also noticed some signs of oil burning.
Build up on the plugs, pistons, and exhaust port.

So, I need to find something to clean up the carbon before I reinstall.
But won't damage the ceramic coating on the top of the pistons.

For the oil burning, I don't see any signs that it came from the streaking in the cylinders.
I believe it came from the original intake since i saw a nice oil film on the cylinder head intake ports.
And i don't see any signs that the oil came from the PCV + i have a catch can.

Meaning I'm feeling pretty sure that it's left over from that oil puddle mess that the intake was holding somewhere inside of it.
While I thought I got it all out, I also found some of my engine degreaser and water coming out of it when I laid it on its side...

So I'm thinking pretty seriously about a new intake to prevent this crap from causing any pinging...

So, I can either go with a factory new intake, or some aftermarket one.
Thoughts, suggestions, etc.?

 

[iamdub]

...Meaning I'm feeling pretty sure that it's left over from that oil puddle mess that the intake was holding somewhere inside of it.
While I thought I got it all out, I also found some of my engine degreaser and water coming out of it when I laid it on its side...

So I'm thinking pretty seriously about a new intake to prevent this crap from causing any pinging...

So, I can either go with a factory new intake, or some aftermarket one.
Thoughts, suggestions, etc.?

I sprayed Super Tech engine degreaser inside my intake- through the throttle body and into each port. I let it soak, flipped and rolled it around then used a baby bottle cleaning brush to scrub each port in its entirety. Flushed it out with a sprayer on the garden hose (again, through all ports) and repeated until I used the whole can of degreaser. Sprayed brake cleaner into each port, flipped and rolled it, hosed it, then shot air through it with my Dirty Harry blow gun in both directions. It was factory fresh after that.

Oh, I did this to it just as it came off the engine. Throttle body, injectors, fuel rails, sensors, hoses, etc. all in place.

 

[Just Fishing]

I sprayed Super Tech engine degreaser inside my intake- through the throttle body and into each port. I let it soak, flipped and rolled it around then used a baby bottle cleaning brush to scrub each port in its entirety. Flushed it out with a sprayer on the garden hose (again, through all ports) and repeated until I used the whole can of degreaser. Sprayed brake cleaner into each port, flipped and rolled it, hosed it, then shot air through it with my Dirty Harry blow gun in both directions. It was factory fresh after that.

Oh, I did this to it just as it came off the engine. Throttle body, injectors, fuel rails, sensors, hoses, etc. all in place.

Yeah, i went crazy with mine.
Did it twice.

Once with the AFM delete.
Added a catch can at that time.

Then with the new engine, more oil managed to come out?!!

now I'm looking at this again...

I sorta want to cut one of these intakes open to understand wtf is happening in there.


Weirdest thing was the degreaser and water, and that was after driving this for a good 1k miles in summer heat.

Very good chance this is the final, and it just had this little bit left...

 

[Just Fishing]

Did some research last night, and it looks like the preferred method for carbon removal is ATF + Acetone.
So, I picked up some last night, and mixed up some of that + as much ATF as I was willing to spare.

Probably near 50/50 mix

I left the pistons soaking last night, and one of them is nearly cleaned.
the other is slowly getting there.

So, I have the heat on in my ultrasonic @ 50c and running its vibrating magic.

I sure hope this works faster than 24hrs per.
I can do two pistons at once, no more than that.


I also noticed that the ATF and acetone didn't mix well, kept separating.
But ATF and mineral spirts mix fine...
I added a dash of Mineral spirits to see if it helps.
So far, I'm seeing less separation...

But I'll see how it looks after an hour or so.

 

[pwtr02ss]

You're making some great progress on this thing. I'm glad the cam bearings looked good. This time, she'll be perfect!

 

[Just Fishing]

You're making some great progress on this thing. I'm glad the cam bearings looked good. This time, she'll be perfect!

Yeah, and in a strange way, this was a good thing.

This allowed me to notice an issue with the crank "polish" where it was killing the rod and main bearings.

I still remember, they told me to run "Race" bearings for the rods...

I believe that would have resulted in a rod bearing failure eventually since the race bearings won't "polish" like standard bearings will.
(Assuming I understood that correctly that is)

Gordan Johnsons machine shop.
I don't think I'll use them again.
But I do plan on having them look at the old crank.


And mineral spirits did the trick, now acetone and ATF mix together just fine.
In the back of my mind i was worried it would react somehow... lol

 

[pwtr02ss]

Yeah, and in a strange way, this was a good thing.

This allowed me to notice an issue with the crank "polish" where it was killing the rod and main bearings.

I still remember, they told me to run "Race" bearings for the rods...

I believe that would have resulted in a rod bearing failure eventually since the race bearings won't "polish" like standard bearings will.
(Assuming I understood that correctly that is)

Gordan Johnsons machine shop.
I don't think I'll use them again.
But I do plan on having them look at the old crank.


And mineral spirits did the trick, now acetone and ATF mix together just fine.
In the back of my mind i was worried it would react somehow... lol

Definitely wouldn't be using them again after the bs you've gone through with it. Sucks having to do things twice