What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Rocket Man

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Drill a tiny hole right at the very end of the crack and epoxy it all back together. I'd suggest the black J-B Weld Plastic Bonder since it matches the factory Ebony dash so well. But if your interior is any other color- good luck!

Fixing the crack and adding support under the center (folded spare rag or towel) will really help to prevent further cracking.
I know people have had varying degrees of success fixing these cracks. I tried and I’m pretty good at that stuff. I even bought the hot stapler that melts wire staples into the plastic, pulled the dash, and used about 50 of those on the underside to fix the 3 cracks- 2 by the airbag and one long one by the instrument cluster. While working on it I noticed the plastic in those areas was darker than the rest. It had “ rivers” of dark plastic where the cracking occurred. I’m not sure if that was a result or cause of the cracking. I also noticed the part that goes between the windshield and dash was brittle and broke in 2 places when I tried to remove it.

I reinstalled the main dash and ordered the other part. Within a week there was a new long crack near where the other one was by the instrument cluster. And when I pulled that dash again to replace it, I experimented with the different areas. I cut pieces out and played around a bit. That darker plastic snapped super easy, it was real brittle. The rest of it…I could bend it back and forth and couldn’t get it to break, which is what you’d expect of plastic.

So I guess what I’m trying to say is…I don’t think it’s worth trying to repair most of these. My thoughts are that there is some defect in the manufacturing process that created weaker plastic in those areas. That’s the only thing in my mind that could cause the different characteristics of the material. If it was sun doing it, I think the entire dash would be brittle and would break in more areas other than the 2 common ones. Or would be brittle in more areas.

Of course, theses are only the opinions of some guy on the internet so take it as you may. I posted pics of my findings in my build Silverado thread but it was a ways back. I did find the discoloration and brittleness pretty interesting. The top of the dash didn’t show any difference in color or texture. This was the Ebony color so it was black however on the underside it was black and then super black in the brittle areas.
 

Bill 1960

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My dash was in bad shape when purchased, and my observation was akin to @Rocket Man , the material in many places was brittle and so weak that my attempts at repair were just enlarging the damage as often as not.

I bit the bullet and replaced it with a new one as well as the part in front under the windshield. Expensive, but now it’s durable again and I don’t have to baby it.
 

George B

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I know people have had varying degrees of success fixing these cracks. I tried and I’m pretty good at that stuff. I even bought the hot stapler that melts wire staples into the plastic, pulled the dash, and used about 50 of those on the underside to fix the 3 cracks- 2 by the airbag and one long one by the instrument cluster. While working on it I noticed the plastic in those areas was darker than the rest. It had “ rivers” of dark plastic where the cracking occurred. I’m not sure if that was a result or cause of the cracking. I also noticed the part that goes between the windshield and dash was brittle and broke in 2 places when I tried to remove it.

I reinstalled the main dash and ordered the other part. Within a week there was a new long crack near where the other one was by the instrument cluster. And when I pulled that dash again to replace it, I experimented with the different areas. I cut pieces out and played around a bit. That darker plastic snapped super easy, it was real brittle. The rest of it…I could bend it back and forth and couldn’t get it to break, which is what you’d expect of plastic.

So I guess what I’m trying to say is…I don’t think it’s worth trying to repair most of these. My thoughts are that there is some defect in the manufacturing process that created weaker plastic in those areas. That’s the only thing in my mind that could cause the different characteristics of the material. If it was sun doing it, I think the entire dash would be brittle and would break in more areas other than the 2 common ones. Or would be brittle in more areas.

Of course, theses are only the opinions of some guy on the internet so take it as you may. I posted pics of my findings in my build Silverado thread but it was a ways back. I did find the discoloration and brittleness pretty interesting. The top of the dash didn’t show any difference in color or texture. This was the Ebony color so it was black however on the underside it was black and then super black in the brittle areas.

My dash was in bad shape when purchased, and my observation was akin to @Rocket Man , the material in many places was brittle and so weak that my attempts at repair were just enlarging the damage as often as not.

I bit the bullet and replaced it with a new one as well as the part in front under the windshield. Expensive, but now it’s durable again and I don’t have to baby it.
Gm should have stood behind these. It is an obvious defect.
 

the_tool_man

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Gm should have stood behind these. It is an obvious defect.
Agreed. I'm not sure GM could survive too many more hits. But in my opinion, they could have at least offered a discounted price to owners with cracked dashes, or a rebate, or...something. Instead, they ignored it, and used their legal team to get the class-action lawsuit dismissed. That's probably the worst possible thing they could have done from a customer service standpoint.
 

swathdiver

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Dropped the Sierra off at the local GMC dealership this morning to have the throttle body and transmission replaced under warranty. It's an aftermarket warranty sold by GM dealers so we'll see how they take to putting a new transmission in the Sierra. Was able to baby it to the dealer by using the cruise control to increase speed in 1 mph increments so the motor didn't rev up and trans slip. The P0796 code did not come back to my dismay after I cleared it.
 

Just Fishing

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I got pretty far on the hoe last night.
Transmission is pretty much free right now.
Noticed what appears to be some slight leakage at the transfer csse.

Tiny bit of wet at the output shaft.

And i was able to get all of the trans to engine bolts from the underside of the vehicle.

Access is amazing with the exhaust out, and the front drive shaft removed...

I thought i was going to need to clip the metal clamp around the front driveshaft seal.

But then i found a video where it showed them just slowly prying the seal off as to not damage it.

Worked like a charm!!

I removed too many bolts on the transmission bell housing, and had it start ro "V" on me.. lol

Not worried about that bell housing, but i would cry if the block got damaged.

I have it supported temporarily.
I think the transmission cross member needs to go back in there with a block of wood acting as a spacer.

Otherwise, the engine is coming out next weekend.
 

Charlie207

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I was looking at this and thinking wth happened?!
View attachment 363481

But I just looked at mine, same cut.
weird!!

Maybe that prevents warpage when they weld this thing together? :hmmm2:


I literally just unboxed mine (screw work...) and Saw the cuts in my Champion Radiator. I looked over the box for damage, and assumed that they were manufacturing defects, or some shmuck with a bandsaw messing with Americans.

5TnKqW48ktU9nlFSaIL30cYQ=w2840-h1598-no?authuser=0.jpg

Xhln-_hdHYVc3-ZjK98KwLvw=w2840-h1598-no?authuser=0.jpg

zWhKWSxLM4TXZPI9cuAwMv-Q=w2840-h1598-no?authuser=0.jpg


So this is normal? There is no manual or cool sticker in the box with my new radiator.
 

89Suburban

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Charlie207

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What the flying fu*k!!!!!! :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :Angry::Angry:

I emailed the seller - Big Dog Aftermarket - and they just responded to my question about the cuts:

"Charlie207,

I am going to forward your photos to Champion as we do not know if the
cuts are supposed to be there or not. We have never seen that before...

I will let you know what they say."


If you guys are seeing them, and to my uncalibrated eyes they look evenly offset top to bottom, then I am assuming they are meant to be there.
 

Geotrash

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I emailed the seller - Big Dog Aftermarket - and they just responded to my question about the cuts:

"Charlie207,

I am going to forward your photos to Champion as we do not know if the
cuts are supposed to be there or not. We have never seen that before...

I will let you know what they say."


If you guys are seeing them, and to my uncalibrated eyes they look evenly offset top to bottom, then I am assuming they are meant to be there.
I've seen them in radiators before and always assumed that they are there to serve as expansion joints and protect the coils from separating with temperature changes.
 

Sparksalot

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I literally just unboxed mine (screw work...) and Saw the cuts in my Champion Radiator. I looked over the box for damage, and assumed that they were manufacturing defects, or some shmuck with a bandsaw messing with Americans.

View attachment 363995
View attachment 363996
View attachment 363997

So this is normal? There is no manual or cool sticker in the box with my new radiator.
Those look similar to what my coldcase has. Except they had inserted a flyer in the box explaining what those are.
 

justchecking

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I bought a QUICKJACK for my 2011 Suburban. 22% Off today (2/22/2022) using code TWOTWO.
My garage isn't tall enough for a two post lift.
It's another retirement (next month) gift to me.
Ran a service on my daughter's car before she headed back to college Sunday. Ran the front on the ramps, then the back on the ramps, then thought "you know if I had a quickjack I could have....". Checked Quickjack site out this evening and saw the sale and thought, what the heck? 22%!!
 

Rocket Man

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I bought a QUICKJACK for my 2011 Suburban. 22% Off today (2/22/2022) using code TWOTWO.
My garage isn't tall enough for a two post lift.
It's another retirement (next month) gift to me.
Ran a service on my daughter's car before she headed back to college Sunday. Ran the front on the ramps, then the back on the ramps, then thought "you know if I had a quickjack I could have....". Checked Quickjack site out this evening and saw the sale and thought, what the heck? 22%!!
Congrats on retirement. Last September for me. I’m loving it.
 
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I bought a QUICKJACK for my 2011 Suburban. 22% Off today (2/22/2022) using code TWOTWO.
My garage isn't tall enough for a two post lift.
It's another retirement (next month) gift to me.
Ran a service on my daughter's car before she headed back to college Sunday. Ran the front on the ramps, then the back on the ramps, then thought "you know if I had a quickjack I could have....". Checked Quickjack site out this evening and saw the sale and thought, what the heck? 22%!!
Which model did you buy?
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Filled her up after she sat for 2 weeks.
Took 2 years, finally caught the covid. Pretty sure works paying me for it though which is nice.
Yesterday was back to work as usual though.
And the dirty old hoe never missed a beat!
Was sprinkling a little bit on the way home today and did a little accidental drift around the right hand turn. And then it was barking the tires every 1-2 shift.
 

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Sparksalot

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Filled her up after she sat for 2 weeks.
Took 2 years, finally caught the covid. Pretty sure works paying me for it though which is nice.
Yesterday was back to work as usual though.
And the dirty old hoe never missed a beat!
Was sprinkling a little bit on the way home today and did a little accidental drift around the right hand turn. And then it was barking the tires every 1-2 shift.
 
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Filled her up after she sat for 2 weeks.
Took 2 years, finally caught the covid. Pretty sure works paying me for it though which is nice.
Yesterday was back to work as usual though.
And the dirty old hoe never missed a beat!
Was sprinkling a little bit on the way home today and did a little accidental drift around the right hand turn. And then it was barking the tires every 1-2 shift.
Damn, your E85 is 10 cents cheaper than around here, but you're regular is almost $2 more
 

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