Wtf kind of ghost do I have? 97 gmc yukon

[Secureolive]

WHAT DO I DO?
97 gmc yukon slt, 5.7, 4x4
Bought this truck and the person said the tranny has just been rebuilt and it went downhill fast. Immediately did the following:
-New tranny
-New torque converter
-New rear driveshaft
-New rear end
-New oil/oil filter
After a week, the hub assembly and driver cv axle blew out so I parked it until I could get all the front end parts. Ok so I start it every couple days to keep the juices flowing. It snows, I don't go out for 4-5 days...battery dead. I charge the battery it fires up. I go out a couple days later, battery dead, I jump it, it starts. Auto Zone test says that battery had an overcharged cell so dud. Finally able to do:
-New hub assemblies
-New cv axles
-New tie rods ends (inner and outer)
-New upper and lower ball joints
-Newer battery, reading good
It ran fine, started right up for a week...ran meh ok like it needed a tune up but good. Last week it just wouldn't start without a jump box. It won't crank sometimes, it won't start. It'll crank sometimes, no start. Dugguduggdudgggdug like the starter is out but it's good. There is a starter bypass that was run when I got the truck, I ran the truck with a new starter with and without the bypass...same thing. Duggudugggduggdugguu. I put the jump box on it and it starts up. I hear the fuel pump engage when I turn the key to on position. I have checked all fuses inside and out and have only found one shit fuse, the heater blower fuse...replaced it and heater blew, and every other one read good. I have tried to hook my scanner up to it but it didn't even recognize the truck. With the above list, I have also sunk myself deeper into my beloved shit box with:
-New Air filter
-New starter
-Newer alternator, reading good
-Ground connections show ample voltage, also looking good and have resone connections that looked like shit
-New iginition control module
-New ignition coil
-New spark plugs
-Newer plug wires
If you've read this far, wow...thanks for taking time out of your life for my Canadian born freak show. I'm at a loss for words ha I'm here for any words of advice because obviously I'm willing to throw parts at this toddler for a truck.

UPDATE:
Battery that was newer, (2018), read low volts (so obvious drain there). I checked the cells, two of them were low. I stuck my acessory battery on it (2018, 650cca, small acessory battery) and that started it. It started up, I said oh shit...hopped in and took a test drive, drove to get gas, didn't start at the gas station, I jump it, it starts, I get home, I turn it off, wait maybe 10 seconds...started right up.

 

[wjburken]

First off welcome to the forum from Iowa.

Secondly, let’s see if we can get this moved to the GMT400 section. (@Miami-Dade @soulsea @07Burb @NathanJax)

 

[soulsea]

Moved

 

[Secureolive]

First off welcome to the forum from Iowa.

Secondly, let’s see if we can get this moved to the GMT400 section. (@Miami-Dade @soulsea @07Burb @NathanJax)

Thank you. I realized i was in the wrong spot last night ha.

 

[Doubeleive]

the heater fuse is sort of a clue, when the blower motor resistors go bad it can cause a battery drain, although a fuse may blow random for whatever reason I would check out the blower motor resistor usually they are visibly melted or nasty looking. even if it looks ok, maybe do a battery drain test and see if pulling that fuse makes any difference

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

I loved my '97 (RIP).

 

[YukonGTmaster]

Did you replace the cap and rotor at your distributor?

 

[Secureolive]

I

Did you replace the cap and rotor at your distrii

Did you replace the cap and rotor at your distributor?

I have not. Only cause it started w the jump. Could that be the culprit?

 

[Secureolive]

the heater fuse is sort of a clue, when the blower motor resistors go bad it can cause a battery drain, although a fuse may blow random for whatever reason I would check out the blower motor resistor usually they are visibly melted or nasty looking. even if it looks ok, maybe do a battery drain test and see if pulling that fuse makes any difference

I will try this one. Battery drain. Could the battery read good or ample voltage even if I have a drain in power at start?

 

[Doubeleive]

I will try this one. Battery drain. Could the battery read good or ample voltage even if I have a drain in power at start?

not sure what you mean, with the engine running you won't be to do the test, everything must be off

 

[Secureolive]

 

[Secureolive]

not sure what you mean, with the engine running you won't be to do the test, everything must be off

I'm asking would my battery read good volts even if the truck had a battery drain from something like the blower? Like would the heater/resistor drain the battery completely dead?

 

[Doubeleive]

I'm asking would my battery read good volts even if the truck had a battery drain from something like the blower? Like would the heater/resistor drain the battery completely dead?

depends on how bad the drain is, if it is a slow drain the battery might be fine for 2-3 days or longer and then become dead presuming the vehicle was not driven, or it could be a heavy drain and leave you stranded by the next morning.

 

[Secureolive]

depends on how bad the drain is, if it is a slow drain the battery might be fine for 2-3 days or longer and then become dead presuming the vehicle was not driven, or it could a heavy drain and leave you stranded by the next morning.

Ok. I will test. Thank you.

 

[drakon543]

i didnt see it mentioned so ill mention it. you also said you replaced the starter, what starter did you purchase? on my 97 tahoe i used to have i went through 3 starters with a similar issue. i finally upgraded to a pmgr starter and problem completely went away. only difference im reading is yours definitely seems more of a drain issue as the way im reading it generally only happens after its sat for a while. mine would do it at any given time but definitely more noticeable if i was doing alot of driving.

 

[YukonGTmaster]

I



I have not. Only cause it started w the jump. Could that be the culprit?

I



I have not. Only cause it started w the jump. Could that be the culprit?

With all the ignition components you changed already, distributor cap and rotor are cheap insurance. These are notorious for corrosion and wearing out. As far as battery drain I always look first at aftermarket add ons such as alarm systems, etc. Another red flag is, why a starter bypass installed? Is there a fault in the circuit to the solenoid? I had a battery drain in the summer, that ended being a stuck engine oil pressure switch, that would run the fuel pump with the key off. You said in your post “Newer Battery”. How Newer? Lol

 

[Eman85]

Do you have a digital volt ohm meter with an amp meter in it?

 

[Secureolive]

i didnt see it mentioned so ill mention it. you also said you replaced the starter, what starter did you purchase? on my 97 tahoe i used to have i went through 3 starters with a similar issue. i finally upgraded to a pmgr starter and problem completely went away. only difference im reading is yours definitely seems more of a drain issue as the way im reading it generally only happens after its sat for a while. mine would do it at any given time but definitely more noticeable if i was doing alot of driving.

Thank you for your response. I got a direct drive starter. DD was oe so that's why I got that over the pgmr.

 

[Secureolive]

I will also try the cap and rotor. I have no idea why the bypass was installed. It makes no sense really because it started fine, at the steering column, without turning the key on the bypass, mounted at the bottom of the dash. When I was following wires and checking connections, everything thing looked good, I put my volt meter to them and again good. I have a stereo system but have not turned it on in weeks because of the issue. Could it still drain the battery? The battery I had in it was from 2015, bwaha! The one I put in it was from 2018, still laughable. The little acessory battery I had on the drivers side (I say little because it is and 650 cca from 2018) and its starting it now (will update post). Started up, drove to get gas, didn't start at the gas station, I jump it, it starts, I get home, I turn it off, wait maybe 10 seconds...started right up.

With all the ignition components you changed already, distributor cap and rotor are cheap insurance. These are notorious for corrosion and wearing out. As far as battery drain I always look first at aftermarket add ons such as alarm systems, etc. Another red flag is, why a starter bypass installed? Is there a fault in the circuit to the solenoid? I had a battery drain in the summer, that ended being a stuck engine oil pressure switch, that would run the fuel pump with the key off. You said in your post “Newer Battery”. How Newer? Lol

 

[Secureolive]

I will also try the cap and rotor. I have no idea why the bypass was installed. It makes no sense really because it started fine, at the steering column, without turning the key on the bypass, mounted at the bottom of the dash. When I was following wires and checking connections, everything thing looked good, I put my volt meter to them and again good. I have a stereo system but have not turned it on in weeks because of the issue. Could it still drain the battery? The battery I had in it was from 2015, bwaha! The one I put in it was from 2018, still laughable. The little acessory battery I had on the drivers side (I say little because it is and 650 cca from 2018) and its starting it now (will update post). Started up, drove to get gas, didn't start at the gas station, I jump it, it starts, I get home, I turn it off, wait maybe 10 seconds...started right up.

Thank ypu for your help!!