What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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mountie

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Are those wires original? I can't make out the lettering. They look blue.

You can't beat OEM wires and plugs. They last +100K miles and, if they're good enough for modded Corvettes, etc., they're more than sufficient for a stock 5.3 in an SUV. Surely you'd know better than to fall for the gimmick plugs. I believe yours came from the factory with platinum plugs. In all honesty, old-fashioned copper plugs perform best as far as producing spark. They just require more voltage to spark and don't last nearly as long as the platinum, iridium, etc. variants. With the platinums, etc., the loss in sparking power is a small compromise when you don't have to replace them every ~30K miles.

As for aftermarket wires, I've never been let down by Taylor. On past vehicles, I've had issues with MSD (I think a few of us here have) and Accel. I'd stick with OEM, but would get Taylor if I wanted a pretty color. Last I checked, they tended to be the same price, if not cheaper than AC Delco Original. Actually, I've been wanting to replace my wires but just haven't bothered.
I looked on the Summit website for Taylor wires..... To me a bit confused on choices. I wish to install new wires just as a stock setup, ( metal heat guards, etc / length ??)
I prefer the 10.5mm blue?. Just not clear to which ones if I order from them.

Thoughts?
 

Tonyrodz

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I looked on the Summit website for Taylor wires..... To me a bit confused on choices. I wish to install new wires just as a stock setup, ( metal heat guards, etc / length ??)
I prefer the 10.5mm blue?. Just not clear to which ones if I order from them.

Thoughts?
I had these.
Taylor Cable 79614 409 Pro Race LS Truck Race Fit Ignition Wire Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ER0RIAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apanp_X5RH2c6AHTO4O Screenshot_20220123-153752_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 

SRQYukon

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The pillar covers, you mean, not the slots. At least on mine, the slots were purely decorative. I replaced them with smooth covers.
 

Rocket Man

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The pillar covers, you mean, not the slots. At least on mine, the slots were purely decorative. I replaced them with smooth covers.
The slots IN the pillar covers. They let the air through. The Esky smooth covers have slots too, they’re continuous from top to bottom, as seen from the rear. The slots serve the same purpose. If there were none, the air trying to rush through would have no way of escaping fast enough. The slots on both styles are not purely decorative, they serve a purpose. Did you notice the large rubber flaps on the body underneath the appliqués when you removed the old ones?
image.jpg
 

Tonyrodz

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Is that just a stock photo or of the actual product? You can't use the metal shields with the ones in the pic.
Stock photo of the actual wires. He said Taylor wires, so my old set came immediately to mind. Forgot about his requirements tho--to use stock heat shields--and he doesn't have headers.
 

mountie

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Stock photo of the actual wires. He said Taylor wires, so my old set came immediately to mind. Forgot about his requirements tho--to use stock heat shields--and he doesn't have headers.
If only headers is a heat problem, ( mostly),.... I won't worry about the shields.

I'm not trying to be picky..... I want to order one time/ right wires. If the metal shields are not necessary, due to the 'higher protection' of the Taylors, then that will be great!

Taylor has a few choices.... I get confused easily......
 

iamdub

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Stock photo of the actual wires. He said Taylor wires, so my old set came immediately to mind. Forgot about his requirements tho--to use stock heat shields--and he doesn't have headers.

I started to look for Taylors that fit the shields but saw a squirrel. I wanna keep the shields. I have round coils and headers but the stock wires fit perfectly fine.
 

iamdub

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If only headers is a heat problem, ( mostly),.... I won't worry about the shields.

I'm not trying to be picky..... I want to order one time/ right wires. If the metal shields are not necessary, due to the 'higher protection' of the Taylors, then that will be great!

Taylor has a few choices.... I get confused easily......

Personally, I'd run some type of shielding. Maybe Taylor opted against designing wires with the factory style ends so you'd buy their insulator sleeves if you needed/wanted protection.
 

clandr1

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Replaced the backlighting in my HVAC controls this morning. Pretty tedious, but better than having to buy a new one.

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Just a follow up to this for anyone who tries this and experiences something similar. I'm not sure if I installed the new bulbs incorrectly, or if the new bulbs were slightly longer/taller than the factory bulbs, but my switches for Auto and floor/dash/defrost, along with most buttons along the bottom (on/off, recycle, A/C compressor, etc.) started sticking a few days after I replaced the bulbs (the buttons would press in, but would not rebound).

I took the unit apart again and it appears the heat from the new bulbs slightly melted the backside of the plastic housing, causing the buttons to hang up when depressed. I used a small pair of pliers and removed the plastic that was deformed, and all seems well now.
 

NoReverseYukon

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Questions for those who have Denalis/6.0/etc. with all 3 engine covers and catch cans :

I was going to install these engine covers today, but hit a snag - I mounted my catch can to the alternator bracket and that is right in the way of where that engine cover needs to go.

Where is the best place to mount the catch can, and more importantly how did you route the hoses underneath the cover?

It seems like there is a lot of stuff in the way that will prevent this thing from getting where it needs to be.

In taking these off at the junkyard, I also noticed that the passenger side cover puts a lot of stress on those heater core tees. I better buy 2 new ones just in case.

Thanks
 

Rocket Man

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Questions for those who have Denalis/6.0/etc. with all 3 engine covers and catch cans :

I was going to install these engine covers today, but hit a snag - I mounted my catch can to the alternator bracket and that is right in the way of where that engine cover needs to go.

Where is the best place to mount the catch can, and more importantly how did you route the hoses underneath the cover?

It seems like there is a lot of stuff in the way that will prevent this thing from getting where it needs to be.

In taking these off at the junkyard, I also noticed that the passenger side cover puts a lot of stress on those heater core tees. I better buy 2 new ones just in case.

Thanks
I don’t have the engine covers as you can see but my CC came with a bracket that attaches with one of the bolts for the brake booster. I tried to get a good pic but it’s a black bracket so it doesn’t show up good. You could make something similar.
985B100F-D0AF-4C4C-AD60-C4EC97A58DFF.jpeg
9AF007BF-652F-46FE-A9ED-70D12EB1142D.jpeg
 

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