What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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BigRed300r

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I dedicated a lot of time to some mods on my Tahoe this weekend. I replaced my low beam halogen lights with one of HID Guy's kits, plasti dipped my chrome surround on my grille, tried to repaint my front bowtie (FAIL!), replaced my interior lights with LEDs, installed my holster under my steering column, and replaced a seatbelt latch on the driver's seat. Now I'm waiting on my rear door actuators to come in as well as the billet bowties I ordered. As soon as they get here I'll get to installing them too. Long weekend but I got it done. What did you do to your Tahoe/Yukon?
 

Fubar0715

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I guess our prices up here are better than I thought.

E85 - $3.15
93 - $3.25 (edit change from 91)


*In other news, we woke up to 5” of fresh powder this morning with another 2-3” expected by tomorrow. Two weeks in Florida can’t get here soon enough. So @swathdiver make sure to tell your state to get its act together by mid-Feb.
That is so precious that you think Florida will get its act together. Being born and raised there-you know everything is a fantasy world and you are dreaming! :2cents:
 
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Be careful pulling on the panel to close the door without those bolts in place. The panels break easily and they’re not cheap. If you break the main handle part, you can’t buy just that piece, you’ll need to buy an entire door panel.
Update:

Yesterday I found out that Autozone sells a bolt that fits the door: Needa 455940 (replaces GM 11570136). Now all I need are the trim pieces and my job is completely complete.
 

Rocket Man

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Update:

Yesterday I found out that Autozone sells a bolt that fits the door: Needa 455940 (replaces GM 11570136). Now all I need are the trim pieces and my job is completely complete.
Those stupid little cover pieces are expensive. When I did a LT to LTZ conversion, I bought the door panels for about $80 apiece used and those 2 covers that each door needed were about $20 by themselves per door (new, couldn’t find used). Probably cost more now.
 
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Those stupid little cover pieces are expensive. When I did a LT to LTZ conversion, I bought the door panels for about $80 apiece used and those 2 covers that each door needed were about $20 by themselves per door (new, couldn’t find used). Probably cost more now.
I've seen the armrest trim piece for about $15 and the handle trim piece for around $10, both on eBay. The problem is that they're insanely hard to find at that price. Other sellers have them listed for the same prices that you mention.

Since you've done door panels, you got any tips for getting the lock knob back on? I bought a replacement (really, whoever took this door panel off the first time did the worst job they could without actually breaking the thing ), but I can't get it to stay.
 

Rocket Man

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I've seen the armrest trim piece for about $15 and the handle trim piece for around $10, both on eBay. The problem is that they're insanely hard to find at that price. Other sellers have them listed for the same prices that you mention.

Since you've done door panels, you got any tips for getting the lock knob back on? I bought a replacement (really, whoever took this door panel off the first time did the worst job they could without actually breaking the thing ), but I can't get it to stay.
If you mean the tab you pull up and down to manually lock the door, just do it with the door unlocked so the rod is all the way up, that way the little locking tab has room. Then open the lock tab with a pick so it’s popped out, slide the lock button down on the rod until the opened lock tab hits the trim, and then push in the lock button. Here’s mine in the released position, ready to pull he knob off. As you can see, somebody was fighting to get it open at one point. Now that I see it again I’ll probably have to buy a new one. Crap.
 

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If you mean the tab you pull up and down to manually lock the door, just do it with the door unlocked so the rod is all the way up, that way the little locking tab has room. Then open the lock tab with a pick so it’s popped out, slide the lock button down on the rod until the opened lock tab hits the trim, and then push in the lock button. Here’s mine in the released position, ready to pull he knob off. As you can see, somebody was fighting to get it open at one point. Now that I see it again I’ll probably have to buy a new one. Crap.
I can get it to attach, but it doesn't sit flush with the rest of the trim when locked. It could just be that the knob I bought isn't strictly OEM.
 

Rocket Man

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I can get it to attach, but it doesn't sit flush with the rest of the trim when locked. It could just be that the knob I bought isn't strictly OEM.
Does that lock tab look just like my pic before you push it in? The bottom of it should touch the trim before you push it in. If it does, and still doesn’t look right then it must not be the right part.
 

alpha_omega

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I replaced the throttle body and sensor in my 11 Denali yesterday. Now the idle is all messed up. Been watching videos on Youtube on how to help it relearn. Really hoping I don't have to take it in to get it reprogrammed.
Were you able to get it to relearn without taking it in? I’m guessing you don’t have Tech2 or an OBD tool capable of doing a relearn?
Weird how some people have a problem doing that I have swapped and cleaned and replaced mine on several vehicles over the last 15-20 years and not once ever had any issue I even put the ls7 throttle body on my Denali and it worked perfectly
I could be wrong, but I think a big part has to do with the fact of disconnecting the battery prior to disassembly.

That is so precious that you think Florida will get its act together. Being born and raised there-you know everything is a fantasy world and you are dreaming!
Very true…but regardless by the end of Feb the weather has to be better than anything we have in Michigan.
 

Just Fishing

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Did you pick up 90 degree swivels or just hard 90’s?

90-degree swivels?

I have two hose to fitting.
Figuring these ones will go to the Cooler line filter adapter


and 6x

Figuring two for the transmission to -8an
two to the radiator to -8an
and two for the front cooler.

I'm probably fine with what i have, but I really hate to not have enough when the time comes. :jester:
 
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Doubeleive

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Were you able to get it to relearn without taking it in? I’m guessing you don’t have Tech2 or an OBD tool capable of doing a relearn?

I could be wrong, but I think a big part has to do with the fact of disconnecting the battery prior to disassembly.


Very true…but regardless by the end of Feb the weather has to be better than anything we have in Michigan.
nope never disconnected the battery, plug-n-play if the engine is off there is no power to the throttle body
when cleaning I have always cleaned them by hand with spray cleaner and rag, I don't push on it hard enough to bend the butterfly but enough to get the grime off. just hold it open all the way and clean all sides and what can be reached inside the intake i always clean the maf at the same time.
 

Rocket Man

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nope never disconnected the battery, plug-n-play if the engine is off there is no power to the throttle body
when cleaning I have always cleaned them by hand with spray cleaner and rag, I don't push on it hard enough to bend the butterfly but enough to get the grime off. just hold it open all the way and clean all sides and what can be reached inside the intake i always clean the maf at the same time.
I’ve done the same thing, as well as removed it and cleaned it and then reinstalled it. Never a problem.
 

alpha_omega

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nope never disconnected the battery, plug-n-play if the engine is off there is no power to the throttle body

I’ve done the same thing, as well as removed it and cleaned it and then reinstalled it. Never a problem.

That’s the first I’ve ever heard of anyone not unplugging the TB or unhooking the battery when cleaning or changing them out.
I’m curious now…why do you guys think others are running into issues with needing to do a relearn (by that I mean taking it in and having it done)? Is it the difference in OEM vs. aftermarket parts, specific years not relearning as well compared to others, or maybe not giving it enough time to work out the issue?
 

alpha_omega

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Anyone running a Melling water pump? What did you think of it compared to OEM and are you running Melling gaskets as well?
 

Rocket Man

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That’s the first I’ve ever heard of anyone not unplugging the TB or unhooking the battery when cleaning or changing them out.
I’m curious now…why do you guys think others are running into issues with needing to do a relearn (by that I mean taking it in and having it done)? Is it the difference in OEM vs. aftermarket parts, specific years not relearning as well compared to others, or maybe not giving it enough time to work out the issue?
I have no idea. Maybe they’re turning the key on when it’s out? All I know is I’ve never had to do a relearn. I unplug them when I take them out, then clean them and put them back in. There’s no voltage going to them unless the key is turned on. Or turn the butterfly by hand wide open and clean it.
 

George B

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I have no idea. Maybe they’re turning the key on when it’s out? All I know is I’ve never had to do a relearn. I unplug them when I take them out, then clean them and put them back in. There’s no voltage going to them unless the key is turned on. Or turn the butterfly by hand wide open and clean it.
I do the same with no issues.
 

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