Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

Is this something you simply changed in the tune?

yeah sorry, i meant to say "with hp tuners"
you really only need a single license to do it, that's $50
when downloading the tune, just uncheck everything except for "tcm"
Then when you write, you will only need to add a single license.

lots of trial and error, go slow but the first thing to do would be to service the valve body.
the little pressure switch "laminates" are a pita, so i suggest an extra set.
I had one set from my little sonnax tool, and another set from my transgo shift kit.
I ended up with one spare.

 

[pwtr02ss]

yeah sorry, i meant to say "with hp tuners"
you really only need a single license to do it, that's $50
when downloading the tune, just uncheck everything except for "tcm"
Then when you write, you will only need to add a single license.

lots of trial and error, go slow but the first thing to do would be to service the valve body.
the little pressure switch "laminates" are a pita, so i suggest an extra set.
I had one set from my little sonnax tool, and another set from my transgo shift kit.
I ended up with one spare.

Thank you sir. Once I get able, we'll probably pulls the pan and filter change. Parts suggestions on the valve body? Everything can be done with the transmission in the vehicle?

Sorry for the dumb questions, you're one of the first people who I've seen mention these things. I thought the 6 speed was super tough lol

 

[Just Fishing]

This was on page 43

i added some extra youtube links, i believe these are the ones i used when rebuilding the valve body.

You will need an special socket set, i added to the list!

-

I pulled this for another thread, so here are the parts for a valve body rebuild i did a while back.
I also rebuilt the techm, i found the pressure switch laminates were on their way out.
(At a minimum, i would replace the little rubber seals)

GM Genuine Parts 24245720 Automatic Transmission Control Valve Body Spacer Plate with Gaskets

Amazon.com

ACDelco GM Original Equipment 24236934 Automatic Transmission Control Valve Solenoid Filter Plate Kit

Amazon.com

Sonnax tool - 124740TL30 - 6L45 6L50 6L80 6L90 6T70

Amazon.com

also search for "124740-30K" finds it with prime

Transgo SK6L80 Shift Kit

Amazon.com

(bunch of stuff you won't use unless the pump has been pulled from the transmission, just ignore those)

This goes with the above kit (mentions the pn in the shift kit instructions)
Transgo 6L8CSTCC Valve Kit

Amazon.com

GM Genuine Parts 24236933 Automatic Transmission Fluid Filter Kit with Seal

Amazon.com

Sonnax checkballs - PN: 10000-08

Pardon Our Interruption...

You will need some special "E" torx sockets.
This is the set i bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S2J6RZP

Looks like no longer available, but these china specials can vary all over the place.
use it as a search term.
"Female E Torx Star Socket Set"
I see several results under $10 and shipped via prime.
I don't recall the exact ones i used, but it's somewhat small.
(And I'm sure it's mentioned on one of the youtube videos below)


Valve body rebuild
Youtube search term "6l80 valve body rebuild"
A few references that look like something i remember watching.

 

[pwtr02ss]

This was on page 43

i added some extra youtube links, i believe these are the ones i used when rebuilding the valve body.

You will need an special socket set, i added to the list!

-

I pulled this for another thread, so here are the parts for a valve body rebuild i did a while back.
I also rebuilt the techm, i found the pressure switch laminates were on their way out.
(At a minimum, i would replace the little rubber seals)

GM Genuine Parts 24245720 Automatic Transmission Control Valve Body Spacer Plate with Gaskets

Amazon.com

ACDelco GM Original Equipment 24236934 Automatic Transmission Control Valve Solenoid Filter Plate Kit

Amazon.com

Sonnax tool - 124740TL30 - 6L45 6L50 6L80 6L90 6T70

Amazon.com

also search for "124740-30K" finds it with prime

Transgo SK6L80 Shift Kit

Amazon.com

(bunch of stuff you won't use unless the pump has been pulled from the transmission, just ignore those)

This goes with the above kit (mentions the pn in the shift kit instructions)
Transgo 6L8CSTCC Valve Kit

Amazon.com

GM Genuine Parts 24236933 Automatic Transmission Fluid Filter Kit with Seal

Amazon.com

Sonnax checkballs - PN: 10000-08

Pardon Our Interruption...

You will need some special "E" torx sockets.
This is the set i bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S2J6RZP

Looks like no longer available, but these china specials can vary all over the place.
use it as a search term.
"Female E Torx Star Socket Set"
I see several results under $10 and shipped via prime.
I don't recall the exact ones i used, but it's somewhat small.
(And I'm sure it's mentioned on one of the youtube videos below)


Valve body rebuild
Youtube search term "6l80 valve body rebuild"
A few references that look like something i remember watching.

Thank for looking that up

 

[Just Fishing]

Thank for looking that up

if needed, i can look up the valve body details in my fsm
i think I really just needed the torque specs and tightening sequence.
I believe the youtube vids shows that as well.

the transgo stuff covers the check ball locations.

and the sonnax check balls are the "non shrinking" type.
the valve body spacer plate kit comes with new factory GM check balls, but they will shrink over time.

I only had a single check ball that was slightly smaller then the rest.

also that valve body separator plate i linked, i confirmed per Transgo instructions, this is the "updated" version.
something about being an upgrade from an earlier one, probably in 08.

my transmission already had it installed, but neat to confirm it.

another thing i didn't link.
Sonnax sells end plugs for the valve body.
they are a little better fitting and feature an O-ring.
this is to prevent leaking out the sides, and should help with overall shift quality as the plugs are known to vibrate and wear over time.

the workaround would be to install the plugs backwards when reinstalling (end with less wear).
I sprung for the end plug kit, didn't cost much.

I believe that's one of the things i bought locally since it's not in ebay or amazon shopping history.
Go to sonnax's website to find it, they also have some good articles and instructions listed there.
Stuff to read before you have the valve body on the bench.


Oh and i love the 6l80e
the fact you can pull the entire valve body like an alternator or water pump =

Older versions you needed to install check balls into the bottom of the transmission.
that means you either need to be very talented when installing the valve body, or just use some transmission assembly gel to hold them in place.

 

[Just Fishing]

and i have this baby on order.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R5G0DO

Plan is to check transmission line pressures before and after i bypass the transmission oil cooler
From there, i get to pull the pan and look at the thrust bearing and the thrust bearing surface on the crank.

I'm thinking about tossing the original 5.3 thrust bearing in there to see if it eats it.
If all checks out, then I'll go through and replace the bearings with the same one i have installed.

@ $140 since I have to buy a complete set...

If the thrust surface looks damaged, then I'm probably going to pull the engine so i can replace the crank.
if that's the case, then the engine gets all new bearings.

good news is it would be a great time to pull the Y pipe and have a second O2 sensor port installed before the cats.
and I still need to see if i can find a used donor from a 6.2 or 6.0, but i doubt I'll have any luck since the cats are part of the assembly.


As for the radiator.
I do recall the transmission side feeling like it was pretty restrictive when i did a flushing before reinstalling.
I did a forward and reverse flushing for good measure.

Noticed a slight pressure build up and slow release, but didn't think anything of it since i didn't have an issue that i knew of before hand.
I'm now thinking that it might be failing internally, or when i ran the engine for a sec at first startup, and didn't have enough transmission fluid in.
Since it was so fresh, i tried my best to not turn it off until i had a chance to get some good oil flowing.

Possible something ended up in the lines, and slowly got worse as i drove while breaking in the engine.

This is all speculation until i prove it.

At the time i was more concerned about the engine oil cooling side, since i know that got metal in there.


It's always that one part i knew i should replace, but didn't because of $$
(and i wanted to spend $500 on an upgraded radiator vs a stock one)

 

[pwtr02ss]

if needed, i can look up the valve body details in my fsm
i think I really just needed the torque specs and tightening sequence.
I believe the youtube vids shows that as well.

the transgo stuff covers the check ball locations.

and the sonnax check balls are the "non shrinking" type.
the valve body spacer plate kit comes with new factory GM check balls, but they will shrink over time.

I only had a single check ball that was slightly smaller then the rest.

also that valve body separator plate i linked, i confirmed per Transgo instructions, this is the "updated" version.
something about being an upgrade from an earlier one, probably in 08.

my transmission already had it installed, but neat to confirm it.

another thing i didn't link.
Sonnax sells end plugs for the valve body.
they are a little better fitting and feature an O-ring.
this is to prevent leaking out the sides, and should help with overall shift quality as the plugs are known to vibrate and wear over time.

the workaround would be to install the plugs backwards when reinstalling (end with less wear).
I sprung for the end plug kit, didn't cost much.

I believe that's one of the things i bought locally since it's not in ebay or amazon shopping history.
Go to sonnax's website to find it, they also have some good articles and instructions listed there.
Stuff to read before you have the valve body on the bench.


Oh and i love the 6l80e
the fact you can pull the entire valve body like an alternator or water pump =

Older versions you needed to install check balls into the bottom of the transmission.
that means you either need to be very talented when installing the valve body, or just use some transmission assembly gel to hold them in place.

It'll be a little bit before I'm ready to dig in. But when I get healed back up, I'll get to the nitty gritty.

 

[Just Fishing]

While i had my grille inserts removed, i thought it could use a screen.

I'm sure this will probably cause more problems than it solves, but it's worth a shot...

Lower,

I used this stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PBF1SLJ

This stuff worked pretty good, but i did find it a little brittle.
Tended to try and break on me if i bent too quickly, or too much of an edge.

Then some fine stainless steel "safety" wire to make sure that crap stays in place.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FVQVJBG

Lots of holes in my hands!
That safety wire is just fine enough to crawl under your skin if you're not paying attention.
It's not a good feeling.

 

[Just Fishing]

And i found some metal parts in my radiator cooler.
Pressure difference was not too noticeable with and with out the coolers in place.

I'm sure I need to be under load to really see a difference.
Gauge hose was a little too short to get it strapped into a good place for a drive.
So i'm going to run it as is.

If i burn up another thrust bearing, then the engine is coming out.
And i might try and replace or rebuild that transmission pump...

 

[Just Fishing]

Also the metal i got out of the radiator cooler...
I meant to save it but it got lost.
It was a little dark in color, and magnetic.
My thinking is that it came from the converter.
sorta looked like hardened steel, possible flash from welding due to the coloring and how hard it was.


Possible it came from the old converter and it just managed to lodge itself.
Found when i did a reverse blow out with compressed air, the trans fluid still in the cooler...
(covered with a towel to capture anything that came out)

I still have the original converter, I plan on cutting it open at one point.
Should be neat to open it and get an idea of how long it had left.

I also think some of the internals would look cool on the wall...

 

[Just Fishing]

And for the grille screen retainer.
For the most part i was able to push the screen out in order to lock it in place.

But for the wire retainer part, this is what i did.

The trick is to not crack the screen through.
a little trial and error for me.
I ended up picking a thicker place in the screen for the wire, since thinner ends broke through way to easily.

One thing i was unsure of, how much space for the wire would i have when the grille inserts are reinstalled.

Answer = plenty of space.


I went back through the lower insert to brace it a little better.

The top screen also helps to block access to the hood release, as i found out earlier how easy it can be opened from the outside of the truck.
Now of course you can still just jab a screw driver through the screen, but it will leave a very obvious mark.

 

[Just Fishing]

and a little image of my trans cooler bypasses.

Front "tow package" bypass

Main radiator bypass.

I couldn't find all of my hose clamps, so i ended up using my "ClampTite" tool

That tool uses wire to create pretty little one time use clamps.
So far i have been very impressed by this tool.

But for most things, i prefer a reusable clamp that's easier to deal with vs having to locate my special little tool.

That said, it's great if i don't want to go to the store to buy hose clamps.
And it should seal a little bit better than a hose clamp, since there is no raised part that could possibly leak (where it might require a second hose clamp otherwise).


IIRC it was either a youtube video, or something on velocity channel that showed me the handiness of it.

Pretty much you can wrap the wire as many times as you want around the hose.

I bought the cheaper "aluminum" bodied one

I wish it had a little case, i keep this tool in a Ziploc bag so i can keep the instructions with the tool.
But It works fine with just a single wrap.

My tool, pen for size reference.

(Found on ebay for about $25, took some hunting before i found one with a price tag i liked)

 

[pwtr02ss]

That's a nifty little tool.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Making any progress? Haven't seen much of you lately...or maybe I've just missed it. Checking in

 

[Just Fishing]

Nah, not doing much on it right now.
Probably in a few weeks I'll pull it back into the garage.

 

[Stonefort]

Are you going to check the thrust bearing or just look for metal in the oil filter?

 

[Just Fishing]

Are you going to check the thrust bearing or just look for metal in the oil filter?

Already done the check for metal and it's there.
And the thrust bearing check, i can see that the crank was being pushed forward.

I also proved that the transmission cooler in the radiator had at least a slight blockage.
Bypassing the coolers, the transmission is already acting better.
I had noticed that my engine braking in the transmission had nearly stopped, bypassed the coolers and it's back.

So the plan is to pull the pan off, roll out the thrust bearing and check the crank surface.
Depending how the crank looks, i might either roll in a new thrust bearing or pulling the engine for a new crank.

Good news is i have been **** about filter changes in order to cut them open to view contents.
If any metal bypassed, it was very little.
And i didn't see any metal at the top of the engine when i had the valve covers off.

Main plan is to see if a new crank bearing lasts.
And hope the transmission isn't damaged.
If it is, then more $$ (yay...)

If the engine comes out again, then i'm going to probably try my hand at pulling the transmission pump for a check/replacement.

Only thing that concerns me is that i have never done a transmission with it on it's side.
On a 4l60, the 2-4 band messes with you.

On the 6l80, i think I'll just need to pull the valve body since it seals directly against the pump.
And that will also allow me to install a boost valve, i have one from Transgo that has a pressure relief built in.
Supposed to prevent drum failure due to over pressure.

 

[Stonefort]

Already done the check for metal and it's there.
And the thrust bearing check, i can see that the crank was being pushed forward.

I also proved that the transmission cooler in the radiator had at least a slight blockage.
Bypassing the coolers, the transmission is already acting better.
I had noticed that my engine braking in the transmission had nearly stopped, bypassed the coolers and it's back.

So the plan is to pull the pan off, roll out the thrust bearing and check the crank surface.
Depending how the crank looks, i might either roll in a new thrust bearing or pulling the engine for a new crank.

Good news is i have been **** about filter changes in order to cut them open to view contents.
If any metal bypassed, it was very little.
And i didn't see any metal at the top of the engine when i had the valve covers off.

Main plan is to see if a new crank bearing lasts.
And hope the transmission isn't damaged.
If it is, then more $$ (yay...)

If the engine comes out again, then i'm going to probably try my hand at pulling the transmission pump for a check/replacement.

Only thing that concerns me is that i have never done a transmission with it on it's side.
On a 4l60, the 2-4 band messes with you.

On the 6l80, i think I'll just need to pull the valve body since it seals directly against the pump.
And that will also allow me to install a boost valve, i have one from Transgo that has a pressure relief built in.
Supposed to prevent drum failure due to over pressure.

Dang I was hoping you got the issue solved.....so you have a new thrust bearing in and it's still making metal?

 

[Just Fishing]

Dang I was hoping you got the issue solved.....so you have a new thrust bearing in and it's still making metal?

Yeah it burned up the new thrust bearing right away.

Then i found that a blocked transmission cooler could be the problem...
That's where i'm at now.

I just need to hope that i didn't damage the crank shaft this time around.

 

[Stonefort]

Yeah it burned up the new thrust bearing right away.

Then i found that a blocked transmission cooler could be the problem...
That's where i'm at now.

I just need to hope that i didn't damage the crank shaft this time around.

Ah ok I see now. I was misreading some of that. Thanks for clearing it up. I hope the crank is fine as well, for a bunch of reasons. But if you can just roll a new bearing in, it would be interesting to see if a blocked trans cooler could wipe a thrust bearing out that quick. Looking forward to the next update, keep it going!