What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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I hop on and off here as time allots, sorry that's not convenient for answering all questions. Once the questions and responses start paying for my mortgage and go fast parts I might be more vigilant of staying on top it.

But as far as the Kids comment, don't get it mixed, I don't owe YOU or anyone here anything. You're not my father nor an authority figure to me, so you can officially slow your role.

I have posted in other threads that I have NOT been to the track. - there, both questions have been answered - Happy now?
Thanks for the info. It just seemed like you were purposely avoiding the two simple questions for some reason :rolleyes:

I am looking at buy something like this to use in the off season when the tracks are closed around here and just wanted your opinion, I'm not trying to pull teeth.

Like I said in the original quote, I had one of those G-Tech Pros back in the 90's that basically was an accelerometer only and was just curious how the newer devices work and if they're accurate and what setup you had.

The ones that use the OBD port and use the vehicles onboard sensors won't work on a couple of my vehicles because one of them is OBD1 and the other is carburated.

For the other three vehicles I have that are OBDII, I'd probably just be as well off using the performance dashboards in the Torque Pro app and my OBDLink MX+ bluetooth adapter, but I don't know how accurate they'd be, but I could use it as a baseline before/after tool to see if something improved or not.

geesh
 

Sparksalot

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Thats awesome. I'm using my GI Bill to finish BS'ing my way through my undergrad in Cyber Security Management & Policy. Once I'm done with my BS, I will have enough left over to complete about 80% of my Masters program
That's cool. I had about $50 left in GI benfits, and in my bank account when I graduated.
 

swathdiver

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I... I just can't. At most, I'll write how I speak ("gonna", "'em", "cuz", etc.), and I use punctuation cuz some statements read like questions and vice versa. If that scares the degenerate away, then I don't need to associate with them. FB Sellers be like "Call are text me", "U gon git dis rn", "U tryna com nw are 2mro". I be like "I don't speak Walmart". *Deletes convo and unsaves ad*


Today I looked at my Tahoe and, for a few seconds, I fantasized what it'd be like to own it again.
I think you ought to buy another just like with an L9H motor and 6-speed!
 

iamdub

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Unpinned the regulator motor wires from the DDS harness and made a stand alone fused harness on a 6 pole toggle switch until I get this situated.

1629290092045.jpeg

THIS guy's goin places.
 

iamdub

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I think you ought to buy another just like with an L9H motor and 6-speed!

A few months ago, I tried to contact that guy in WA (or was it OR?), the one that posted the walkaround YouTube vid. Never heard back.

Now's a terrible time to be buying anything. I guess I'll just end up having to build my own. :D
I'm still monitoring FB and CL for a good 6.2.
 

Doubeleive

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That the best fix?
apparently since the bushing likes to break, why gm didn't design it that way to begin with is beyond me, other than speed of production, they could have even just slapped on a metal clip. stupid engineers will put a lock tab on a freaking plug that will likely never ever ever come off but won't where it's most likely to come off :confused:

if the original bushing is toast you can use 2 thin washers and a short sleeve for the center and drill a small hole in the shifter control nipple for the cotter pin
just a trip to the hardware store if you don't already have a bucket of misc stuff in the garage already. autoparts store has a little kit of all different size cotter pins.
$5-10 and 5 minutes and permanent fix.

I bought the bushing from bushing fix but the heat made it soft and so it popped off 3 months later, I left that on and added a outside washer and cotter pin, works great
 
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Bill 1960

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Shift cable bushing let go on me. Ordered a new lower shifter cable from rockauto
When that happened on my Jeep I found a vendor online that was selling shift linkage bushings for all kinds of vehicles. It was a very inexpensive part. Sorry, it was years ago and I don’t recall the name.

Full disclosure the Chinese bushing failed later and I did the fix with a cotter pin like @Doubeleive mentioned. I don’t think the aftermarket bushings were as good as the original.
 

Doubeleive

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When that happened on my Jeep I found a vendor online that was selling shift linkage bushings for all kinds of vehicles. It was a very inexpensive part. Sorry, it was years ago and I don’t recall the name.

Full disclosure the Chinese bushing failed later and I did the fix with a cotter pin like @Doubeleive mentioned. I don’t think the aftermarket bushings were as good as the original.
ya the heat makes the plasti-rubber or whatever they make it out of soften up and it won't hold tight
 

CaptainAmerica1

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apparently since the bushing likes to break, why gm didn't design it that way to begin with is beyond me, other than speed of production, they could have even just slapped on a metal clip. stupid engineers will put a lock tab on a freaking plug that will likely never ever ever come off but won't where it's most likely to come off :confused:

if the original bushing is toast you can use 2 thin washers and a short sleeve for the center and drill a small hole in the shifter control nipple for the cotter pin
just a trip to the hardware store if you don't already have a bucket of misc stuff in the garage already. autoparts store has a little kit of all different size cotter pins.
$5-10 and 5 minutes and permanent fix.

I bought the bushing from bushing fix but the heat made it soft and so it popped off 3 months later, I left that on and added a outside washer and cotter pin, works great
Thanks, I may go that route. I’m on travel till Friday so it’s zip tied for now. Just sucks cuz it was raining when it happened so I had to lay in 2” of water to rig it up temporarily…
 

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