What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[SRQYukon]

Wow. Impressive. I’m jealous of the coil over setup!!! If you don’t mind what did that cost you?? I have an itch for it. I really need to get off my butt and install my Moog upper and lower LCAs. My 2020 4 piston calipers are also collecting dust in the same corner of garage

Hey blueinkd, the 2020 brake setup was the easiest part of the whole job. I had to play around with different washer thicknesses for a little while, but really very easy.

The coilover setup costs around $1000. Makes a huge difference if you drive on bad pavement. My '03 1500 had a good ride with the Michelin Defenders and the 2/3 drop, but was a bit harsh on bumps. Here in Sarasota, they put a manhole in the drive lane about every 1000 feet, and then pave the road so there's a 2" dip at each cover. I found myself memorizing the location to avoid the bone jarring. After the coilovers were complete, I drove around for 30 minutes hitting every manhole I could find. Of course, I can still feel it, but the truck body no longer feels like it's going to come off the frame. The torsion bars are great for suspension and very rugged, but they introduce a lot of harsh shock transfer into the frame.

 

[SRQYukon]

love the blue on the calipers. What kind of prep if any did you do on them??? Maybe that will motivate me to install mine. Show some pics of the whole rig as well, lets see what they look like behind the wheels.

Finally got some pics with wheels on. And before anyone starts to criticize the stance, I know the rear is too high. I have another set of Eibach springs that are 1" lower, that will eventually go on. Right now I'm testing with the H&W 2'' drop spring but they're too high. Anyway, you asked to see the full rig with the wheels on and the brakes behind them, so here it is. I threw in a pic of the rears just for kicks

 

[Tonyrodz]

Finally got some pics with wheels on. And before anyone starts to criticize the stance, I know the rear is too high. I have another set of Eibach springs that are 1" lower, that will eventually go on. Right now I'm testing with the H&W 2'' drop spring but they're too high. Anyway, you asked to see the full rig with the wheels on and the brakes behind them, so here it is. I threw in a pic of the rears just for kicksView attachment 347109View attachment 347110View attachment 347111View attachment 347112View attachment 347113

Might take a few days for the rear springs to settle a bit. Have you driven it around some?

 

[blueinkd]

I took my angle grinder to the new calipers and smoothed the rough castings and took about 3/16" off the inner shoulder to be sure I had enough clearance for my 22" wheel. Glad I did that because the clearance on the driver side is only about 1/16". Anyway, after smoothing, I used a high heat primer and several coats of VHT bright blue caliper paint, and several more coats of clear caliper paint. Not a show-quality job but looks pretty cool (I'll post some pictures later this afternoon with the wheels on). I'm really tired of red calipers, so opted for something a little different.

Thanks. What attached were you working with on the grinder?? My apologies for the noob question but I don't pull out the grinder I have very often. I have cut off wheels for it but nothing else. I think the cast aluminum calipers would look great behind my black wheels but I'm a fan of blue as well .

 

[Rocket Man]

Been working on my Silverado for a bit but today FedEx stopped by. I knew a box was coming from a company named Medco in Fresno but had no idea what it was. Turns out the can of SEM Classic Coat I ordered on the 4th of July finally came. Amazon refunded me 3 weeks ago so it’s free.

 

[SRQYukon]

Thanks. What attached were you working with on the grinder?? My apologies for the noob question but I don't pull out the grinder I have very often. I have cut off wheels for it but nothing else. I think the cast aluminum calipers would look great behind my black wheels but I'm a fan of blue as well .

I used a 100 grit flap disc, then a 180 flap disc for final sanding. You could probably do finer if you are going high gloss on the finish. I have no idea how long the caliper paint will last.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

You win the first criticism award. Since it's not a show-truck, and the hubs are completely covered by the wheels, I don't care that they have a little scale.

Hah sorry. Couldn't help it. It's looks great!

 

[Doubeleive]

Been working on my Silverado for a bit but today FedEx stopped by. I knew a box was coming from a company named Medco in Fresno but had no idea what it was. Turns out the can of SEM Classic Coat I ordered on the 4th of July finally came. Amazon refunded me 3 weeks ago so it’s free.

sounds about how I got my free phone from amazon, morons shipped it from here in town to kentucky or something then it finally made it's way back here like 3 weeks later in the meantime they refunded me and sent me another phone that came right away. lol

 

[Kman]

After the minor work I did on the Tahoe in this post I took it on a 800 mile trip. Ran like a dream! I did notice when I got out of the Tahoe with it still running that the fuel pump was making a very loud whining noise. Fuel was at half and the outdoor temp was 110 degrees. Fuel pump going out?

 

[Doubeleive]

After the minor work I did on the Tahoe in this post I took it on a 800 mile trip. Ran like a dream! I did notice when I got out of the Tahoe with it still running that the fuel pump was making a very loud whining noise. Fuel was at half and the outdoor temp was 110 degrees. Fuel pump going out?

they sometimes get noisy, it may or may not run like that for a long time, they are rated for 100k.
when mine first started whining I was far from home and about to cross back over some very desolate hot desert so i opted to have it replaced by a dealer i was close to in new mexico I don't remember the mileage then but i was over 100k, the new one started whining after about 40k off and on so I just let it be and ran until 324k and sold it.

 

[SRQYukon]

Might take a few days for the rear springs to settle a bit. Have you driven it around some?

Only about 20 miles around town. I don't plan on any changes until I drive it for a couple of weeks. I may decide to adjust the front coilovers up a little instead of swapping springs.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Only about 20 miles around town. I don't plan on any changes until I drive it for a couple of weeks. I may decide to adjust the front coilovers up a little instead of swapping springs.

I think it looks just fine with the rear a tad higher. Especially if you plan to tow or put equipment in the back. Your truck looks great I'm glad your enjoying all the mods!

 

[02Z71Raven]

Well, I tried my best to be patient and salvage these plug wires but they refused. After I broke the second one there was no sense in saving them. Besides, new set was already in the mail.
Got the old manifolds off, only to find out that 3 of the bolts were already missing their heads and two of them are broke off flush with surface. Luckily the heads are going to the shop for a valve job and resurfacing next week before the new cam and valve train is installed.
After that dumpster fire I decided to clean up and rearrange my tools. I work for a company where I was able to order a 300+ set for half price so all the old Frankenstein sets are going into the truck as backups and I got my new ratchet wrenches in so that's fun.
Not a great day, not a bad day. 2 steps forward, one step back I guess. I'll go ahead put the headers and new exhaust system on anyway. I want to hear this Borla before the cam and tune. Hopefully I won't have a massive exhaust leak mixed in.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

So recently Ive had some health issues, wasnt able to do a intake gasket and valley pan gasket to easily right now. So had a friends shop do the work, did knock sensors/harness/oil pressure sender and cam position while in there... Might as well do it all up. So a day later, the truck starts doing no start first cycle of the key, starts on the second... Then after its fired it will pop right off on every key cycle after that. So Checked fuel pressure, 44 lbs running, pull vac off reg up to 54, but was bleeding pressure down after sitting a few minutes, down to 20 area... So decided to cut the hole in the floor and do the fuel pump last night, new delphi unit, all in and working, same pressures, still bleeds down pressure... So At this point, I have no clue what's leaking down.... Injector maybe.? It pumps right up to over 50 psi on turn of the key every time.. then drops to 44 when pump turns off, then watch it slowly move down in pressure. Watched it one time not go down at all, so its very weird...

Just didn't know if the new cam position sensor may have caused it, but looks more like fuel pressure issue with leaking injector possibly... So trying to decide if I need a new set of injectors to fix or just a Italian tune up, or buttload of injector cleaner...

FUN FUN FUN....

 

[Fless]

Might want to check the fuel pressure regulator.

 

[Teamiez]

Today, I finally got around to a major suspension, brake upgrade, and differential swap (with the help of my son-in-law and another of his mechanics. In spite of major problems with the rearend sent to us by ATK (under a warranty claim), we accomplished a crazy amount of work in about 10 hours (thanks to a rear auto shop with lifts). Here's what we did:
Front of truck:
New UCA and LCA
All ball joints. tie rod ends. pitman and idler arms
Reman. steer gearbox
4-piston 2020 brake upgrade w/R1 Concept drilled and slotted rotors
R1 Concepts Optimum OEp brake pads
New SS brake lines
Atomic Fabrication Products Coilover kit with Viking coilovers

Rear of truck:
ATK rear unit swap
Bilstein 4600s
SS brake lines
Airlift coil bags and compressor
New R1 Concepts drilled and slotted rotors
New stock calipers and ceramic pads

So far it drives like a dream I once had. I'll be breaking in the rear diff. for a few days, so won't be able to do much performance testing. I'll post brake a performance review in the 2000-2006 section "4-Piston Big Brake Upgrade" section.


View attachment 347041View attachment 347042View attachment 347043View attachment 347044View attachment 347045

What steering box did you end up going with?

 

[Rocket Man]

So recently Ive had some health issues, wasnt able to do a intake gasket and valley pan gasket to easily right now. So had a friends shop do the work, did knock sensors/harness/oil pressure sender and cam position while in there... Might as well do it all up. So a day later, the truck starts doing no start first cycle of the key, starts on the second... Then after its fired it will pop right off on every key cycle after that. So Checked fuel pressure, 44 lbs running, pull vac off reg up to 54, but was bleeding pressure down after sitting a few minutes, down to 20 area... So decided to cut the hole in the floor and do the fuel pump last night, new delphi unit, all in and working, same pressures, still bleeds down pressure... So At this point, I have no clue what's leaking down.... Injector maybe.? It pumps right up to over 50 psi on turn of the key every time.. then drops to 44 when pump turns off, then watch it slowly move down in pressure. Watched it one time not go down at all, so its very weird...

Just didn't know if the new cam position sensor may have caused it, but looks more like fuel pressure issue with leaking injector possibly... So trying to decide if I need a new set of injectors to fix or just a Italian tune up, or buttload of injector cleaner...

FUN FUN FUN....

Might want to check the fuel pressure regulator.

I was just going to say it might be the FPR and yours should be on the fuel rail. If it is, it's easy to change it out. In later years they made them part of the pump assembly. It can bleed pressure off into the return line. I had that exact issue with my 02. I was actually able to find a FPR rebuilt kit but I can't find the p/n. There was an o-ring that I lost when switching the FPR from my old fuel rail onto the new one on my Whipple. I realized it was missing when I saw the part in the rebuild kit.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Might want to check the fuel pressure regulator.

oH YEAH, I tried that before a pump, sorry forgot that piece of information.

 

[NoReverseYukon]

Today I drained the transmission pan and added some old-school Dexron. I had been having the P1870 code pop up and rebuilt the valve body with a TransGo SK 4L60E repair kit a few month's back. I thought that would solve the problem, but no.
When I previously rebuilt the entire transmission, I filled it with Dexron VI.
I did not know at the time that the D VI is a low-viscosity ATF, while the Dexron III is high-viscosity. I guess GM switched to improve fuel efficiency.
Between better fuel mileage and no P1870 code, the choice is obvious. I'll drive it for a few hundred miles and do another fluid change to get as much of the Dexron III into it as possible. Fingers crossed that solves my problem.

 

[Rocket Man]

Today I drained the transmission pan and added some old-school Dexron. I had been having the P1870 code pop up and rebuilt the valve body with a TransGo SK 4L60E repair kit a few month's back. I thought that would solve the problem, but no.
When I previously rebuilt the entire transmission, I filled it with Dexron VI.
I did not know at the time that the D VI is a low-viscosity ATF, while the Dexron III is high-viscosity. I guess GM switched to improve fuel efficiency.
Between better fuel mileage and no P1870 code, the choice is obvious. I'll drive it for a few hundred miles and do another fluid change to get as much of the Dexron III into it as possible. Fingers crossed that solves my problem.

Hoping for the best.