What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Scottydoggs]

So recently Ive had some health issues, wasnt able to do a intake gasket and valley pan gasket to easily right now. So had a friends shop do the work, did knock sensors/harness/oil pressure sender and cam position while in there... Might as well do it all up. So a day later, the truck starts doing no start first cycle of the key, starts on the second... Then after its fired it will pop right off on every key cycle after that. So Checked fuel pressure, 44 lbs running, pull vac off reg up to 54, but was bleeding pressure down after sitting a few minutes, down to 20 area... So decided to cut the hole in the floor and do the fuel pump last night, new delphi unit, all in and working, same pressures, still bleeds down pressure... So At this point, I have no clue what's leaking down.... Injector maybe.? It pumps right up to over 50 psi on turn of the key every time.. then drops to 44 when pump turns off, then watch it slowly move down in pressure. Watched it one time not go down at all, so its very weird...

Just didn't know if the new cam position sensor may have caused it, but looks more like fuel pressure issue with leaking injector possibly... So trying to decide if I need a new set of injectors to fix or just a Italian tune up, or buttload of injector cleaner...

FUN FUN FUN....

ive never had a car or truck hold f/p after its turned off. they all bleed off to some degree. try turning the key to run for a few seconds, then back off, then try starting it, this gives it double prime action.

 

[Rocket Man]

ive never had a car or truck hold f/p after its turned off. they all bleed off to some degree. try turning the key to run for a few seconds, then back off, then try starting it, this gives it double prime action.

But if you have to cycle the key twice in order for it to fire up, somethings wrong.

 

[Scottydoggs]

But if you have to cycle the key twice in order for it to fire up, somethings wrong.

for sure somethings wrong lol might be a gummed up injector or 3.

 

[Kman]

Drove around today running errands and the pump wasn't whining like it was yesterday. Hope it's nothing to worry about.

 

[Tonyrodz]

So recently Ive had some health issues, wasnt able to do a intake gasket and valley pan gasket to easily right now. So had a friends shop do the work, did knock sensors/harness/oil pressure sender and cam position while in there... Might as well do it all up. So a day later, the truck starts doing no start first cycle of the key, starts on the second... Then after its fired it will pop right off on every key cycle after that. So Checked fuel pressure, 44 lbs running, pull vac off reg up to 54, but was bleeding pressure down after sitting a few minutes, down to 20 area... So decided to cut the hole in the floor and do the fuel pump last night, new delphi unit, all in and working, same pressures, still bleeds down pressure... So At this point, I have no clue what's leaking down.... Injector maybe.? It pumps right up to over 50 psi on turn of the key every time.. then drops to 44 when pump turns off, then watch it slowly move down in pressure. Watched it one time not go down at all, so its very weird...

Just didn't know if the new cam position sensor may have caused it, but looks more like fuel pressure issue with leaking injector possibly... So trying to decide if I need a new set of injectors to fix or just a Italian tune up, or buttload of injector cleaner...

FUN FUN FUN....

If you have a tech 2 you can test your injectors individually.

 

[DenaliReyes]

WELP.....(Takes hat off)

Mechanic said my psi is at 10... he checked other things and is sure its the cam bearings. With the engine reaching 250k its best to start new.
So, my options are to either spend a **** load of money trying to fix it and rebuild.. or... spend that money in replacing the engine with either new or low miles used.
I have almost new everything on it as far as waterpump and intake, so maybe all I need is a block?? IDK... your input is highly appreciated amigos

 

[Tonyrodz]

WELP.....(Takes hat off)

Mechanic said my psi is at 10... he checked other things and is sure its the cam bearings. With the engine reaching 250k its best to start new.
So, my options are to either spend a **** load of money trying to fix it and rebuild.. or... spend that money in replacing the engine with either new or low miles used.
I have almost new everything on it as far as waterpump and intake, so maybe all I need is a block?? IDK... your input is highly appreciated amigos

I had a similar situation. Developed a tap. Sounded like a valve tap, nothing too serious. My oil pressure gauge hadn't worked for awhile either--def should've fixed that--once I heard the tsp I parked it. When the mechanic finally looked at it, turned out to be a seized cam bearing. It was a low mileage motor too. Imo it's best to find a low mileage motor, and then transfer over your new parts. Also make sure that whoever is doing the work is thorough and knows what they're doing. Now would be the time to do your upgrades--csm, heads etc. Btw--I went from a 4.8 to a cammed 6.0. No regrets--powerwise anyway.

 

[SRQYukon]

What steering box did you end up going with?

Sorry, I haven't been online today. I went with one from BuyAutoParts. I purchased it from Amazon. Was about to buy one from Detroit Axle, but their reviews were terrible and they required a core to be returned. Was about $80 more expensive, but it looks brand new. They explain in detail what their remanufacturing process includes, and that tipped the scales. Of course, only time will tell if the quality is really there. Been driving it for a couple of days now, and it is really tight. But then I replaced every part in the front end, as well.

 

[Teamiez]

Sorry, I haven't been online today. I went with one from BuyAutoParts. I purchased it from Amazon. Was about to buy one from Detroit Axle, but their reviews were terrible and they required a core to be returned. Was about $80 more expensive, but it looks brand new. They explain in detail what their remanufacturing process includes, and that tipped the scales. Of course, only time will tell if the quality is really there. Been driving it for a couple of days now, and it is really tight. But then I replaced every part in the front end, as well.

Sounds about right, I always found out within 3-5 thousand miles with my gm remans that went bad...the redheads I tried were way ******* up out of the box being entirely way to tight with literally no center at all.

 

[Teamiez]

Sounds about right, I always found out within 3-5 thousand miles with my gm remans that went bad...the redheads I tried were way ******* up out of the box being entirely way to tight with literally no center at all.

I guess we can’t say s c r e w e d up anymore here ?

 

[Kman]

I’ve had my Tahoe in Arizona for 5 days now and just got this nice rock chip today. Right where I look out the windshield. Ugh! Lol. 20 year old Tahoe, 210,000 miles, factory glass. And they don’t make factory glass for the Tahoe anymore.

For those of you that don’t know, Arizona has a lot of rocks on the freeways and such. Most Arizona car insurance policies give you free rock chip repair and one free windshield replacement a year because you go through a lot of glass here. Also you go through car batteries every 2-3 years because they don’t last in the 120 degree summers.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I’ve had my Tahoe in Arizona for 5 days now and just got this nice rock chip today. Right where I look out the windshield. Ugh! Lol. 20 year old Tahoe, 210,000 miles, factory glass. And they don’t make factory glass for the Tahoe anymore.

For those of you that don’t know, Arizona has a lot of rocks on the freeways and such. Most Arizona car insurance policies give you free rock chip repair and one free windshield replacement a year because you go through a lot of glass here. Also you go through car batteries every 2-3 years because they don’t last in the 120 degree summers.

That's a big chip, almost a hole. How does the rock always manage to make a chip exactly in your line of vision?? A sniper isn't even that good.

 

[Sparksalot]

Theothertwin has a broken windsheild, with two very large cracks top to bottom. What many Texans don't know, unless they've lived rural, is the vehicle will pass safety inspection, unless the driver's vision is obscured.

 

[Kman]

Debating getting the chip filled for $70 or a whole new windshield (not factory glass because it’s not made anymore) for $295 installed. Your thoughts?

 

[Tonyrodz]

Debating getting the chip filled for $70 or a whole new windshield (not factory glass because it’s not made anymore) for $295 installed. Your thoughts?

$295? Around me it's $150. How good do you think it would look if it was repaired? From the pic it looks pretty deep.

 

[Rocket Man]

Debating getting the chip filled for $70 or a whole new windshield (not factory glass because it’s not made anymore) for $295 installed. Your thoughts?

For me, a new windshield without a doubt. You’ll get rid of all the pitting that’s undoubtedly there after 20 years and 210,000 miles. You’ll be amazed how much better you’ll be able to see especially at night or in the rain, if you ever get any.

 

[Fless]

Places here won't fix it if it's in the line of sight, which is basically a license-plate-sized rectangle directly in front of the driver's head. Might be a state law. There's a great chance of vision distortion with the repair right in front of you, and that will be most noticeable at night. Recommend getting a name brand windshield; I don't think you can go wrong with Safelite. I had glass insurance on mine when I had it replaced.

 

[Sparksalot]

I’ve tried a repair before. It didn’t work and the cracks expanded.

 

[Sam Harris]

Excuse the ignorance but what led you to completing this repair?? I have seen several discussions on upper and intermediate shafts in the recent months. My rig showing upwards up 245k miles and if I should replace before major failure I'm all for it. I don't like letting things completely fail before fixing them. I'm currently waiting on my front brakes to at least squeak or crap out before the 4 pistons calipers get bolted on.

I did mine, because I had knocking noises / feeling from the steering wheel while going over bumps, etc.. in the road. It wasn’t anything that really “needed” to be replaced, but I’m all about getting rid of any noises and play whenever possible. Especially considering the price and ease of the fix.

 

[Sam Harris]

Thanks Tony. My gearbox is a reman unit. What helped me the most was new idler,pitman, idler bracket and gear box. I did all this at the same time and really improved my steering

Agree. Doing my idler / pitman was what I needed. I thought the steering box would need some work, but after doing the pitman and idler arms, I had zero play, and the steering is tight, and feels brand new. Didn’t touch the steering box, other than to remove / attach the pitman.