IPC-J-STD-001?
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
IPC-610 is inspection of printed circuit boards.
IPCJ-STD-001 is assembly of printed circuit boards. Up to and including class 4 which is for pacemakers and artificial hearts. I built to class 3 which is for things like missiles and launchers, etc; LMMFC. Was a lot of fun.
IPCJ-STD-001 is assembly of printed circuit boards. Up to and including class 4 which is for pacemakers and artificial hearts. I built to class 3 which is for things like missiles and launchers, etc; LMMFC. Was a lot of fun.
Awesome sauce.
I used to troubleshoot and repair at the component level PC boards used in automobile electronics systems IE Chrysler Electronics warranty department for 7 western states. Kinda fun.
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Drove it and will drive it more tomorrow. Drove flawless for about 500 miles and will do it again tomorrow.
Replaced caliper #3 today, number 4 tomorrow.
CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
Love it.Awesome sauce.
RooTBeeRthe1st
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Change the brake fluid for the first time since I bought it(3years)... Never felt like I had an issue, but that fluid might have never been changed in the 4 years that the sheriffs owned it.
So it was way overdue.
And in typical fashion, while I was crawling around underneath it fixing one thing, I found a leaking axle seal from the looks of things.
So it was way overdue.
And in typical fashion, while I was crawling around underneath it fixing one thing, I found a leaking axle seal from the looks of things.
Why DOT 4? Did all your bleeders work? Did you vacuum, gravity, or pressure bleed it?
RooTBeeRthe1st
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I would have gone with the new standard 5.1, but this stuff has a higher boiling point wet and dry.
The front right bleeder was a little tight, but they all worked.
Vacuum bleeder
Looks like that fluid was definitely overdue.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Curious, how many quarts did you use and did you bleed the ABS as well? I went through 6 quarts when we did ours, bled the ABS pump with the Tech-2 and the traditional way to complete.
RooTBeeRthe1st
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No I didn't touch the ABS pump. I think I need to replace the front right caliper in the not too distant future and possibly put on some stainless braided lines if I can figure that out so I'll end up changing the fluid again and be a lot more thorough if I end up replacing those parts.
I could tell a huge difference in the color of the fluid when I got to the more fresh stuff I put in compared to the mud that I was getting out of it at first.
But I could tell it was still a bit darker than the fresh fluid that was coming out of the bottle so it's still not perfect, but a heck of a lot better than what was there.
I used just under 1L
swathdiver
Full Access Member
We did new rotors and pads in 2019 at 135K. In 2020 at 155K, a caliper hung up and then locked up and got to do it all over again, new rotors, pads and now calipers. While everything was apart, we rebuilt the rear calipers as well and then put in new fluid. Oh, all the hoses were replaced too that time.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Gadzooks! That’s some muddy looking chocolate milk. Like James mentioned and you followed up with, the ABS bleed will be a saving grace for your system. Any crap left in there will get flushed out of there. Sometimes the Tech2 can be funny about the bleed and I’ve seen guys have to use a different vehicle year/model selection in order for it to work.
Are you thinking new braided brake lines for the whole system?
Do you know why that caliper hung up? Did the slide pins get over greased?
I say over greased because it is actually the culprit more often than under greasing them because of the vacuum created by the boot and the grease used.
*Guys, you can take it or leave it but I ONLY recommend using Permatex Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant #80653 ($15-20 for a lifetime supply) on the slide pins and 3M Copper Anti-Seize Brake Lube #08945 ($18-20) for the “ears” and any metal to metal contact. Our vehicles are heavy and the brake hardware takes more stopping abuse due to the weight as compared to a car or your neighbors mini-van
You only need to apply the Silicone to one side of the slide pins. Put it in the boot and spin the slide pin around two rotations to spread it evenly. Coating them with any more than that will hinder their performance. Most of the other slide pin grease is Petroleum based which is harmful to the rubber boots and seals. I’ve also seen where too much grease allows brake dust deposits and dirt from the road to collect and gum up the pins causing them to seize.
*I am in no way affiliated with or receiving support from today’s sponsors. Now back to you Permatex. Haha…just kidding.
Finally got around to changing out the power seat switch for my drivers seat. The seat hasn't been able to move forward for awhile, but all other directions worked. Overall it was a pretty simple repair.
Originally I tried to leave the seat back adjustment handle attached and not pull the plastic cover all the way off, but I ended up just splitting the old switch apart.
View attachment 345763
Pulled the whole cover off to do it correctly. New switch installed:
View attachment 345764
I'm about to hit 100k miles, so I also switched out the spark plugs and wires (except for the #8 plug which is impossible to reach) and cleaned off the MAF sensor. Old plugs were looking a little rough:
View attachment 345765
Originally I tried to leave the seat back adjustment handle attached and not pull the plastic cover all the way off, but I ended up just splitting the old switch apart.
View attachment 345763
Pulled the whole cover off to do it correctly. New switch installed:
View attachment 345764
I'm about to hit 100k miles, so I also switched out the spark plugs and wires (except for the #8 plug which is impossible to reach) and cleaned off the MAF sensor. Old plugs were looking a little rough:
View attachment 345765
swathdiver
Full Access Member
One of the pistons on one caliper got stuck. It had hung up about a month before, pushed it back in and greased the slides and it was fine until one day it just got stuck extended and destroyed the pads and rotor on that side.
#8 isn’t too hard if you use the right tools to loosen it. Use a regular 5/8” magnetic plug socket but instead of an extension on it, put a regular depth 3/4” socket on your ratchet and use that on the hex end that is on every plug socket. It’s the perfect length. If you’re still having problems, pull the wheel and inner fender liner and go in from underneath.
Attachments
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Didn't work on the hoe, but i found the brakes on my wifes buick were getting thin.
Had the rotors resurfaced after fighting to get them off for a good hour.
Yes the torx bolt was removed, but i swear they had to have been glued on.
Little orange around the hubs that needed some sanding to fit them back on...
Then decided i wanted to flush the brake fluid out.
Completed that, then hated the way the brake pedal felt.
Mostly holding the pedal down, it would start to slowly sink.
Same issue on the tahoe when i did a basic flush/bleed, so i broke out the tech2 for the abs bleed procedure.
I use my brake vac tool as a one man bleeder while doing it.
Went through the sequence twice before i was happy.
Probably went through a good gallon of brake fluid in the end.
Pedal is nice and firm, I'm very happy with how it came out.
In the tahoe, i had to go back later and do it once more with the calipers upside down and the bleeders fully removed to flush the years of grit out.
The tahoe was really bad lol
Had the rotors resurfaced after fighting to get them off for a good hour.
Yes the torx bolt was removed, but i swear they had to have been glued on.
Little orange around the hubs that needed some sanding to fit them back on...
Then decided i wanted to flush the brake fluid out.
Completed that, then hated the way the brake pedal felt.
Mostly holding the pedal down, it would start to slowly sink.
Same issue on the tahoe when i did a basic flush/bleed, so i broke out the tech2 for the abs bleed procedure.
I use my brake vac tool as a one man bleeder while doing it.
Went through the sequence twice before i was happy.
Probably went through a good gallon of brake fluid in the end.
Pedal is nice and firm, I'm very happy with how it came out.
In the tahoe, i had to go back later and do it once more with the calipers upside down and the bleeders fully removed to flush the years of grit out.
The tahoe was really bad lol
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Hey…it sure beats the two man bleeder method. Which usually ends up being a one man method since one guy up front is lost or not paying attention, smashing the pedal to the floor before, while and after you telling them “ok, slowly pump the brake” right up until just before a lot of cursing pursues (muffled or out loud).
Which vac tool are you using? The Motive or mightyvac whichever name they are using these days.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Please tell me more about this switch. The driver seat in thecopcar is spotty at best moving forward. The other directiones still work.
