Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)
- Thread starter randeez
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randeez
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to change that i mostly just need to pull the pump right?
was prob just going to have them swap all the clutches also while its out and apart
was prob just going to have them swap all the clutches also while its out and apart
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Never been in an 80 but I'd imagine so. You can swap the frictions and steels out while you're in there. Just check tolerance and get it on the lower side and you'll be fine. You may have to buy a spring compressor to get some parts out. I'm really not sure
mikeyss
Full Access Member
I'm just lightening the mood here....
You HAD a 6L80
You swapped to a built 4L80 and broke it
Maybe it's time to try a 6L90 or an Allison, the old 8.1 had an Allison so maybe you could use one of those, lol
You HAD a 6L80
You swapped to a built 4L80 and broke it
Maybe it's time to try a 6L90 or an Allison, the old 8.1 had an Allison so maybe you could use one of those, lol
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randeez
Full Access Member
they use a different spline output so would need another transfer case. but no either way lol
was also a m300 billet input shaft, i beat on it for a while, whole buncha transbrake launches... i may have to start pulling timing on the shifts again if i want it to last for more than a year it looks like tho
mikeyss
Full Access Member
You have the NP149, right?
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randeez
Full Access Member
with a 32 spline input, yea
mikeyss
Full Access Member
I wonder if you have too much traction, the vicious clutch combined with tons of power and the heavy weight of your Denali... It could be a recipe for destruction of any transmission you use. I hope you keep going with this project
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Watched a quick tear down video. They took valve body and all that off, prior to pulling the pump. Once the pump is out, the input shaft comes out. Looked pretty straight forward and they used zero specialty tools during that particular tear down. Those are vastly different from a 60. Much heavier duty assemblies.
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randeez
Full Access Member
Now to pull the engine back out...
Why?
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randeez
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its quickly becoming a **** this engine situation
its just burning coolant/pushing pressure into the coolant system. its possible i just whiffed with the head gaskets trying to do them in the truck, no water in the oil, looks like cyl #8 is cleaner in the exhaust port than the rest.
engine is on the stand in the garage...took a break to eat some spaghetti. going to try and atleast get the heads off tonight
figured while trans is out for a bit i would just do it...it am slightly annoyed
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I gotta say--you have a great attitude about it. I'd be ready to burn it to the ground.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Dammit man. Like every time you've increased power, you'll have to work through this and you'll get it squared away. You're commitment to this truck/combo/crazy ass Denali has always been excellent. Far more than I could've handled (even after the second time you pulled the engine). You'll get it sorted out and hopefully be happy with the outcome. I hate that you're having issues, I really do.
I think sleeper mode is pissed because you shortened her skirt and gave her cleavage via holes in the hood ...sorry, trying to add some humor to the sad situation
I wish you the best of luck in getting it wrapped up.
EDIT: disregard the short skirt. I see you put the steps back on. Pissed about he nipples showing, only
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randeez
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i dont know if great attitude is the right phrase... just literally losing sleep over this pos. i have a considerable amount of $$ tied up in it for it to work like ****
not even really upset about the transmission - its been pretty "reliable" given the circumstances
the engine is what is ******* me off. before, I halfway accepted the cooling probs were due to the "unorthodox" cooling system, but its stripped down to nothing and still wont stay cool ******* idling on the side of the road with a broken trans so i could sit in the AC.
cant really get head gaskets i want to use anytime soon. gm lsx gaskets i can get this week, but they're 4.200 bore - a little over my 4.125.... negligible but with the crap ive been dealing with id like to get something tighter. i ordered them - i think theyre going to get a few coats of copper spray this time and 110ftlbs on the head studs
the head gaskets that were on it: driverside "set up" nice and bonded if that makes sense. had to scrape some of the gasket material off the block/heads when i removed it. fit the same as the other side but seemed to actually work.
the passenger side just came right off like i sprayed pam on it before putting it on. the hoops fit the block well, but i they were pretty much right on the edge of the heads - i think theyre supposed to sit back a .010 or so - i can take the blame for not checking that i guess.
i have a verified straight edge ill check the block deck and see if its out anywhere, i cleaned most of it up. i dont see any signs of cracks anywhere...cylinder walls look smooth and clean, water only in the combustion chamber is going to happen with the head gasket on this combo. the heads have 3/4" thick decks if there was a crack it would be plain as day, even into the runners it should show some signs in them. if it were a problem with the block (thru the sleeve) i would have water in the oil - and there isnt any. if this doesnt fix it , ill just go order a short block from someone else - **** this thing
not even really upset about the transmission - its been pretty "reliable" given the circumstances
the engine is what is ******* me off. before, I halfway accepted the cooling probs were due to the "unorthodox" cooling system, but its stripped down to nothing and still wont stay cool ******* idling on the side of the road with a broken trans so i could sit in the AC.
cant really get head gaskets i want to use anytime soon. gm lsx gaskets i can get this week, but they're 4.200 bore - a little over my 4.125.... negligible but with the crap ive been dealing with id like to get something tighter. i ordered them - i think theyre going to get a few coats of copper spray this time and 110ftlbs on the head studs
the head gaskets that were on it: driverside "set up" nice and bonded if that makes sense. had to scrape some of the gasket material off the block/heads when i removed it. fit the same as the other side but seemed to actually work.
the passenger side just came right off like i sprayed pam on it before putting it on. the hoops fit the block well, but i they were pretty much right on the edge of the heads - i think theyre supposed to sit back a .010 or so - i can take the blame for not checking that i guess.
i have a verified straight edge ill check the block deck and see if its out anywhere, i cleaned most of it up. i dont see any signs of cracks anywhere...cylinder walls look smooth and clean, water only in the combustion chamber is going to happen with the head gasket on this combo. the heads have 3/4" thick decks if there was a crack it would be plain as day, even into the runners it should show some signs in them. if it were a problem with the block (thru the sleeve) i would have water in the oil - and there isnt any. if this doesnt fix it , ill just go order a short block from someone else - **** this thing
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randeez
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the straight edge ive got says its within .002" over 24"... laid across the block (and bores) feeler gauge wont go under it top/middle/bottom/and diagonally both ways. i started with .010>.005>.002
i did drop the trans off yesterday, guys seemed pretty cool...talked about making it more competition ready
via dump valves to help it spool up faster, they say their transbrake works faster on release than the rossler, and is smoother with a bump box - but i dont know - will prob just get it back together for now. i also need to run the converter down to them, they wanted to test it out with it instead of their default one
i did drop the trans off yesterday, guys seemed pretty cool...talked about making it more competition ready
via dump valves to help it spool up faster, they say their transbrake works faster on release than the rossler, and is smoother with a bump box - but i dont know - will prob just get it back together for now. i also need to run the converter down to them, they wanted to test it out with it instead of their default one
