What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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I got the connector off.

I noticed I could get to it with a long screwdriver through that hole in the plastic cover. I had to stick the screwdriver between the fuel rail and fuel hose. After getting grey plug up, I used screw driver to push in on the black tab then used my other hand to reach around to the plug and pull it off 20210629_142549.jpg
 
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That's all taken care of. I had to clear the DTC before the light would go out and the gauge to respond.

Now I'm doing an oil change. The OLM is at 18%. It's been 5400 miles and 8 months since last oil change

I'm noticing oil on bottom of pan near drain, on sway bar, and oil filter. Last oil change there was nothing. It was also the first time I used an ACDelco UPF48R filter instead of Mobil 1. Maybe I didn't tighten filter enough. I included some pics. Gonna wipe it all off and check it in a week or two. 20210629_153730.jpg
20210629_153749.jpg
20210629_153831.jpg
 
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Fless

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I got the connector off.

I noticed I could get to it with a long screwdriver through that hole in the plastic cover. I had to stick the screwdriver between the fuel rail and fuel hose. After getting grey plug up, I used screw driver to push in on the black tab then used my other hand to reach around to the plug and pull it offView attachment 343396

The classic reach-around works again!
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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That's all taken care of. I had to clear the DTC before the light would go out and the gauge to respond.

Now I'm doing an oil change. The OLM is at 18%.

I'm noticing oil on bottom of pan near drain, on sway bar, and oil filter. Last oil change there was nothing. It was also the first time I used an ACDelco UPF48R filter instead of Mobil 1. Maybe I didn't tighten filter enough. I included some pics. Gonna wipe it all off and check it in a week or two. View attachment 343398
View attachment 343399
View attachment 343400
Interesting that the oil pan bolt above the filter is ready to drip.
 

avalonandl

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My Lloyds mats are in the front. I mounted the hold downs on the driver side. I also added additional weather stripping to reduce road noise along the a pillar starting about 8 inches above the beltline down to bottom. Also on the inside trailing edge of front door. It helps a little so this vehicle is really quiet.
 
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Interesting that the oil pan bolt above the filter is ready to drip.
Yeah, and it's only oily around that lower back half of the pan. I was thinking rear main seal, but I popped the inspection cover, and while the cover had oil around it's edges it was all clean/dry inside.

I then thought that Allen plug on the rear of the oil cooler line block but that's all dry. The bottom and sides of the oil cooler line block where it meets the engine looks fine unless it's seeping from the top which I can't see.

The engine block is clean above the pan on the sides. I forgot to check some of the pan bolts to see if they're tight. Maybe I'll do that this weekend when I rotate the tires.

Everything else on that side looks clean going forward, but there is a little gunk on the oil cooler lines where they transition from hard to rubber. I've heard those crimps don't hold well, but I don't think any oil leaking from that far forward would leave the mess I have in those pics
 

Doubeleive

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Yeah, and it's only oily around that lower back half of the pan. I was thinking rear main seal, but I popped the inspection cover, and while the cover had oil around it's edges it was all clean/dry inside.

I then thought that Allen plug on the rear of the oil cooler line block but that's all dry. The bottom and sides of the oil cooler line block where it meets the engine looks fine unless it's seeping from the top which I can't see.

The engine block is clean above the pan on the sides. I forgot to check some of the pan bolts to see if they're tight. Maybe I'll do that this weekend when I rotate the tires.

Everything else on that side looks clean going forward, but there is a little gunk on the oil cooler lines where they transition from hard to rubber. I've heard those crimps don't hold well, but I don't think any oil leaking from that far forward would leave the mess I have in those pics
you might check above the oil filter where the oil cooler line adapter is those are known to leak sometimes, check your valve covers, front of the oil pan where the timing cover is.
get a bottle of purple power and spray it all over under the engine and clean it with a pressure washer then check it every morning to see where the leak is, if it is dripping on the ground then put some clean cardboard under the engine area and look at it in the morning.
 

Sparksalot

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So I have an interesting thing going in with theothertwin. I’ve noticed the last few mornings driving in that I have vapor blowing from the driver side vents in the dash with AC running. Does not occur on the passenger side. Humid every morning.

this afternoon it did this as well. Temp was about 80, but humidity was over 70%.

the last couple of days I’ve been seeing water in the floor on the passenger side as well.

again this afternoon when I got home and parked, water dripping down on the floor. The duct cover is in place, so I don’t know exactly where it drips from.
 

avalonandl

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That's all taken care of. I had to clear the DTC before the light would go out and the gauge to respond.

Now I'm doing an oil change. The OLM is at 18%. It's been 5400 miles and 8 months since last oil change

I'm noticing oil on bottom of pan near drain, on sway bar, and oil filter. Last oil change there was nothing. It was also the first time I used an ACDelco UPF48R filter instead of Mobil 1. Maybe I didn't tighten filter enough. I included some pics. Gonna wipe it all off and check it in a week or two. View attachment 343398
View attachment 343399
View attachment 343400
Classic filter leak eithr loose or too tight
 
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Classic filter leak eithr loose or too tight
I'm hoping that's what it is. The last time I changed the oil was the first time I used one of those ACDelco filters and I always just hand tight.

When I was replacing the motor mount about a month ago I noticed a bit of oil around the filter area and the filter was still able to be turned/tightened by hand. When I just now removed the filter it was super tight.
 
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My wife wanted to close the hood on me!

Usually I use a step stool and lay up on the core support and reach back but that kept hurting my stomach. I'm 6' and 210, so not fat, but not skinny. Getting in and out of there was a feat, but once in it was fine. Also at my age she found it amusing 20210629_204651.jpg
 
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Tonyrodz

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So I have an interesting thing going in with theothertwin. I’ve noticed the last few mornings driving in that I have vapor blowing from the driver side vents in the dash with AC running. Does not occur on the passenger side. Humid every morning.

this afternoon it did this as well. Temp was about 80, but humidity was over 70%.

the last couple of days I’ve been seeing water in the floor on the passenger side as well.

again this afternoon when I got home and parked, water dripping down on the floor. The duct cover is in place, so I don’t know exactly where it drips from.
I've had that happen before too. No idea why.
 

Bill 1960

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So I have an interesting thing going in with theothertwin. I’ve noticed the last few mornings driving in that I have vapor blowing from the driver side vents in the dash with AC running. Does not occur on the passenger side. Humid every morning.

this afternoon it did this as well. Temp was about 80, but humidity was over 70%.

the last couple of days I’ve been seeing water in the floor on the passenger side as well.

again this afternoon when I got home and parked, water dripping down on the floor. The duct cover is in place, so I don’t know exactly where it drips from.

Are you still getting the normal condensation dripping out of the evaporator and hitting the ground below the vehicle? If so your drain line is OK. If not, it’s plugged.

I have on occasion experienced the same phenomenon you described in multiple vehicles when the temperature and humidity were just right. The evaporator chills the air below the dew point and blows out a stream of fog. And under similar high humidity conditions moisture can condense on the exterior surfaces of cold HVAC parts like ductwork and the evaporator housing, and drip down.

The most effective way to combat the latter scenario is running the HVAC on recirculate so more humidity is not drawn in, and crank the fan speed up to reduce the temperature delta between the components and the air passing through. Once the interior humidity is dried down by the HVAC, the surface condensation should stop.
 

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