2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe
- Thread starter Dantheman1540
- Start date
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I knew that would get your attention @Tonyrodz. See any angry vaginas lately?I'm sure that's not the 1st time he's heard that before
Be sure to capture it for observation. You know, like they talk about doing with the unicorns in the Hot Crazy Matrix!Not lately.....but I'm looking
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
You know I will--for observation purposes---of course
Did you watch it? Funny ass shit but true.You know I will--for observation purposes---of course
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I've seen it before. Funny AF!
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Dantheman1540
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Dantheman1540
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Got the Belltech bushing control arms in as well as cutting the cam bolt slot for more adjustment. I think it's already a little better and I just maxed them out in the same direction they were maxed before. Can't believe how well the little carbide rotary files worked! I'll post a link to them tomorrow when I'm not on mobile.
Not sure I can do anything about the exhaust limited rear up travel unless I cut out this crossmember or chop the exhaust and have it redone.
Who thinks I can hack the cross member and not have the frame fold in half?
Also it looks like during normal driving the bump does touch the frame a tad which is good but that's on the side opposite of the exhaust so it probably has a little more up travel independently.
Not sure I can do anything about the exhaust limited rear up travel unless I cut out this crossmember or chop the exhaust and have it redone.
Who thinks I can hack the cross member and not have the frame fold in half?
Also it looks like during normal driving the bump does touch the frame a tad which is good but that's on the side opposite of the exhaust so it probably has a little more up travel independently.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Can you try to squeeze that part of the exhaust flat somehow?
Ooooohhhhh sparkles!
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Dantheman1540
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I don't think I can do it any more than the axle already has
. I've known the exhaust had been crunched like that for a while because the PO had the truck lowered even more than I do and he raised it back up because it smashed the exhaust so bad. I just thought it had fully self clearanced already clearly, I was wrong. Ooooohhhhh sparkles!
It's my precious!
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Dantheman1540
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So with the chopping option here are my 2 thoughts.
1: Cut the Red lines basically just behind the body mounts and possibly at a gusset under the body mounts.
2: Cut the Blue line which is essentially a notching out where the exhaust is hitting
Either option will require some sort of device to strap the exhaust up higher or a reworking of the over-axle setup which I seriously don't want to do. If I redo the over axle section it may end up being a dual 3" to single 4" and single 4" over the axle and out. I've grown out of love with the resonator tip look anyway.
1: Cut the Red lines basically just behind the body mounts and possibly at a gusset under the body mounts.
2: Cut the Blue line which is essentially a notching out where the exhaust is hitting
Either option will require some sort of device to strap the exhaust up higher or a reworking of the over-axle setup which I seriously don't want to do. If I redo the over axle section it may end up being a dual 3" to single 4" and single 4" over the axle and out. I've grown out of love with the resonator tip look anyway.
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Dantheman1540
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Something like this may be the next option, both are less than $150 which isn't a terrible chance to take.
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Dantheman1540
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I have about 8' of 2" diameter .375 thick DOM (I think) in my scrap pile. Just don't know how in the hell I would make it not look like total dog shit. I suppose cut the cross member flat and plate the ends with some 3/16s then weld the tubular cross member from plate to plate. However, there's no way to get the tailpipes out of the way without cutting them since the closest joint is in front of the big Flopro. So either way it seems the tail pipes would need to be removed/reworked.
**Edit** Didn't see your pictures until after I posted. That would work great If I was going from frame rail to frame rail but, I think the important thing is having something connecting the body mounts so they don't try to sag down or break off.
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Dantheman1540
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@pwtr02ss forgive my earlier comment I just now comprehended what you meant by notching and then reinforcing around the notch. Not completely removing the crossmember. That's a good idea, I will have to take a better look at it and see if that's doable. The issue of how to do it with the tailpipe in place still stands and my unlove for the tailpipe section in general.
Even if I redo the tail pipe section I think a notch of some sort would be beneficial to keep the over axle hump as high as possible.
Even if I redo the tail pipe section I think a notch of some sort would be beneficial to keep the over axle hump as high as possible.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Its hard to explain things sometimes. I posted, then went and found pics, ninja edit. Sorry.
Yes, its looks like tight quarters under there. Definitely looks like no fun.
Maybe you can get a small metal saw up in there and start hacking, then do some final clearance with those badass carbide bits you have
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Dantheman1540
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Damn Ninja! It's ok I edited like 4 times. It might be an excuse to get that little mini Milwaukee sawzaw dude, but even then I think the tailpipes have got to go. Wouldn't be that bad I could run around a couple of weeks with them chopped off and it dumped right in front of the axle until I can figure out what I want to do and get everything clearance properly. I'm fairly certain I could do the over-axle part myself if I get some time on my neighbors lift. The only thing I don't know how to do is the hangers and uh weld pretty lol.
Oh, those rotary files are seriously beasts! Within the first 3 seconds it slung metal so rabidly it shot a piece into my eye and I wore goggles the rest of the time lol.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0871WMKZ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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pwtr02ss
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Just have @randeez come over. He'll weld that exhaust on for ya, no problemo. He has been practicing ya know.
Those bits are cheap compared to the old days. Good to know they are not a pile of shit. Looking forward to your solution. The bottoming out/clank sound would drive me nuts.
