Air ride or bypass

[Axm1096]

Whats best i need to replace my front sturts came across a conversion set

 

[wsteele]

For me, I love the Autoride on my Yukon, maybe the best ride on an SUV I have ever experienced. I replaced my structs when the time came (about 100K).


Having said that, if I had to choose due to budgetary constraints, I would probably delete the front Autoride and go conventional, before I gave up the Autolevel on the rear.

 

[Jason in DLH]

Due to the price I switched to regular shocks and struts. I personally didn’t notice any difference.

 

[Axm1096]

Due to the price I switched to regular shocks and struts. I personally didn’t notice any difference.

Thank you

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I bought my new-to-me 07 Yukon XL Denali with the autoride already replaced with a conventional suspension, and I have no issues with it. One point to note is that I believe that this conversion also requires that the rear coil springs be replaced with stronger springs, as there won't be any assist from the air suspension in the rear.

 

[Axm1096]

I bought my new-to-me 07 Yukon XL Denali with the autoride already replaced with a conventional suspension, and I have no issues with it. One point to note is that I believe that this conversion also requires that the rear coil springs be replaced with stronger springs, as there won't be any assist from the air suspension in the rear.

so i would need to do front and rear at once how about the ride quality is that good or is it verry stiff

 

[swathdiver]

so i would need to do front and rear at once how about the ride quality is that good or is it verry stiff

Converting to the ZW7, smooth ride suspension, delivers just that, a nice smooth ride even on light truck all-terrain tires. Will ride better with 20 inch or smaller wheels and with some weight in the back.

 

[Axm1096]

Converting to the ZW7, smooth ride suspension, delivers just that, a nice smooth ride even on light truck all-terrain tires. Will ride better with 20 inch or smaller wheels and with some weight in the back.

Ok great all i would have to do is just install resistors to fool the system

 

[Joseph Garcia]

so i would need to do front and rear at once how about the ride quality is that good or is it very stiff

My ride is very smooth, though I really do not have anything else to compare it to, truck-wise, other than my 1997 Yukon SLE (RIP), which also had a smooth ride.

And, yes, you would need to install resistors to 'fool' the truck's computer.

 

[wjburken]

There are two systems in play here.

AutoRide and AutoLevel.

You can replace the front struts with non AutoRide shocks and resisters to spoof the AutoRide system, and still keep the AutoLevel working with the air shocks in the rear. Arnott makes a front struts that has a connection for your front AutoRide harness to plug into that has the resisters built in and keeps the system happy.

I personally would keep at least the AutoLevel functional as it has a lot of benefits.

At the end of the day, these are premium functions on premium vehicles so I’m amazed at the folks that balk at the cost of maintaining them.

I just bought OEM front struts so I can maintain the AutoRide functionality. Yeah it costs a little more, but over the course of 100K miles, it’s really not that much.

 

[the_tool_man]

I haven't had to touch my Autoride struts yet, though I'm sure that's in my near future. I just replaced the pump when it failed, because I like having the Autolevel working when I tow.

I'd never disable the system for cost savings. I'd expect that to hurt resale, at least, if not the comfort and usability of the truck. Now if there was a technical incompatibility between Autoride, and say lowering the ride height (which I plan to do), I'd disable it. But as far as I've seen, you can keep the system activated even lowered.

 

[Geotrash]

Count me in as another owner who likes the factory autoride and autolevel systems. My buddy has a 2012 Suburban without the autoride system but with newer shocks, and both of mine have the autoride system. It's a noticeable difference to both of us when we drive/ride in each other's trucks. So much so, he wishes he could easily add it to his.

 

[Mooseman93]

Whats best i need to replace my front sturts came across a conversion set

I did the conversion to conventional both front and rear because at the time money was super tight. Maybe I'm a Neanderthal or they were already so worn out when I got the truck, but honestly I couldn't tell any difference. As others have mentioned, you will need the resistors to fool the system and some cheap manual airbags in the rear springs especially if you are towing because the stock rear springs are too soft and will compress badly without the air shocks when loaded.

 

[ThisIsLivin]

I have a 2015 Denali with the Magnetic ride. When they blew I switched to the Arnott. They have the built in resistor and maintain the air levelers. Best thing I ever did on this vehicle. Lifetime warranty and better ride. They use the Eilbach shock which is an excellent unit. On my vehicle if you don’t fool the computer it limits your top speed. I only have about 5k on them, but so far they are fantastic.

 

[gooffeyguy]

There are two systems in play here.

AutoRide and AutoLevel.

You can replace the front struts with non AutoRide shocks and resisters to spoof the AutoRide system, and still keep the AutoLevel working with the air shocks in the rear. Arnott makes a front struts that has a connection for your front AutoRide harness to plug into that has the resisters built in and keeps the system happy.

I personally would keep at least the AutoLevel functional as it has a lot of benefits.

At the end of the day, these are premium functions on premium vehicles so I’m amazed at the folks that balk at the cost of maintaining them.

I just bought OEM front struts so I can maintain the AutoRide functionality. Yeah it costs a little more, but over the course of 100K miles, it’s really not that much.

Did the OEM front struts include the spring, or was it just the strut cartridge? If just the strut, hiw hard was it to swap springs?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[wjburken]

Did the OEM front struts include the spring, or was it just the strut cartridge? If just the strut, hiw hard was it to swap springs?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I got just the strut. I will be doing them this weekend so I’ll give an update then. I bought a set of heavy duty compressors a while back.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

man I been thinking about this for months. I was able to find a replacement z55 suspension for just over $1000 (Monroe fronts, arnott rears) or just do a conversion for about $500. just don't know if the extra $$$ is worth it or if the z55 is that much more comfortable than a conversion.

 

[wjburken]

man I been thinking about this for months. I was able to find a replacement z55 suspension for just over $1000 (Monroe fronts, arnott rears) or just do a conversion for about $500. just don't know if the extra $$$ is worth it or if the z55 is that much more comfortable than a conversion.

I just replaced my fronts with OEM AC DELCO struts for $525 and used a stout set of spring compressors I bought for roughly $65.
The rears I replaced a couple months ago with Arnott's AS2708's for $300 after the core rebate.

For $825 in parts, I was able to maintain Auto Ride and Auto Level. Over the course of 100K miles (average life of these shocks/struts), if you average 15K a year, that is $123/year to maintain the OEM functions vs $75/year for the conversion.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

I just replaced my fronts with OEM AC DELCO struts for $525 and used a stout set of spring compressors I bought for roughly $65.
The rears I replaced a couple months ago with Arnott's AS2708's for $300 after the core rebate.

For $825 in parts, I was able to maintain Auto Ride and Auto Level. Over the course of 100K miles (average life of these shocks/struts), if you average 15K a year, that is $123/year to maintain the OEM functions vs $75/year for the conversion.

I wasn't seeing any of the fronts for less than $300+ each and I didn't know if it was that big of a deal mixing brands.

 

[wjburken]

I wasn't seeing any of the fronts for less than $300+ each and I didn't know if it was that big of a deal mixing brands.

No issue mixing brands, to my knowledge.

Here is a link to the units I bought from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEGFB4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1