Nice that must work really well then, funny all my trucks have not had hydro, the 2 I bought for the wife both had hydroHydro
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Nice that must work really well then, funny all my trucks have not had hydro, the 2 I bought for the wife both had hydroHydro
I like this: Novita LM487 Flasher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KS6GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xnuyFbTYHS9D6
Takes care of the hyperflash, and the resistor issue for the tails.
Thx Chris, I'll check it out tomorrow. Probably give it away anyway. How would this cam perform in a 4.8 or 5.3? Just curious.
Well, with this, my cruise works just fine. That’s what I was trying to say.I know. I've done this years ago and ezven created a thread about it here.
The issue was I lost the Cruise Control and it is very useful to me so I'd rather have incandescent bulbs at the back AND CC ranther than just LED bulbs. ^^
The guy is awesome. Fun to watch. He does all kinds of good tests!screenshot of a Richard holdener video, I don’t remember the engine/ setup, but cam is the only difference between runs. Guessing this is on a 5.3
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The window trim. Specifically the rear windows. And tailgate / hatch window trim. (I would like to replace the rear with a trim-free version ASAP, but for now I have the trimmed glass.
Also, tbh, I’m using either the Chemical Guys VHT, or the Chemical Guys TVD tire and trim gel.
It seems like it doesn’t really soak in, or change the trim at all. It’s just a layer over the top that’s pretty easily wiped off.
Other than painting the trim I’m not sure what would work better. I just want it black, to match the windows and Esky appliqués! [emoji16][emoji106]
screenshot of a Richard holdener video, I don’t remember the engine/ setup, but cam is the only difference between runs. Guessing this is on a 5.3
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Nice! Thanks man, I’ll try that out!I assumed you meant those. I use polish on those parts , they’re like a super hard rubber that’s not porous but holds onto wax really well and shine up so good they almost blend with the glass.
Yellow I use rubber dressing, blue I use polish and wax. Just try it out. No taping required. While everyone tapes these areas off I don’t when I polish/wax the truck. I swear by it and so far they’ve stayed glossy and great shape, no cracking or fading.
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if fuel and air are ok then it must be spark.Well, I thought my fuel pump just died as the truck started to run rough at a light on my way to work then as I accelerated it died and will not start. Towed it to a buddies business nearby and checked fuel pressure at the rail. It has pressure! When pressing the valve on the fuel rain and turning the engine over fuel sprays out like a fire hose so I don't think that's the issue. My next thought is the Crank sensor? Had 60psi of oil pressure and the motor never sounded bad so I don't think anything is hurt. It almost wants to start when cranking but never does fire off. I got a bad out of the box crank sensor when I built the 6.0 in my Silverado and it took me forever to realize that's why it didn't start.
What do you guys think?
Edit: New info
Tachometer, IAT, ECT, and MAP are all readying correctly.
Timing is showing 10* steady during cranking (Not sure what startup timing is supposed to be)
The exhaust smells of gas but the engine sounds like timing is off.
Still no codes
I'm thinking Cam sensor
if fuel and air are ok then it must be spark.
Didn’t you just pull a wire? You lean on something?Now to identify what specific thing is stopping spark or producing spark at the wrong time. Going on lunch to change the cam position sensor and see if that fixes it.
Didn’t you just pull a wire? You lean on something?
I would check the coil harness
not sure, there have been cases where the ground breaks on the coil harness, the fix if this happens is to make a new ground or replace the harness. but I would get a meter out and check just to rule it in or out. assuming you don't have a million miles on the plugs and wires then you don't have to worry about those if the coils have power then I would move on to the injectors. just a process of eliminationI did and I looked all around that area pretty well and didn't see anything unplugged or burned. I'll look better on lunch but theres not much on that side that I can think of that I could have bumped.
That's a good one to check, where do they typically fail at?
The CG Tire & Trim Gel works good for me but if the plastic is too faded you’ll have to paint it.The window trim. Specifically the rear windows. And tailgate / hatch window trim. (I would like to replace the rear with a trim-free version ASAP, but for now I have the trimmed glass.
Also, tbh, I’m using either the Chemical Guys VHT, or the Chemical Guys TVD tire and trim gel.
It seems like it doesn’t really soak in, or change the trim at all. It’s just a layer over the top that’s pretty easily wiped off.
Other than painting the trim I’m not sure what would work better. I just want it black, to match the windows and Esky appliqués! [emoji16][emoji106]
Nice work Nate!Finished the brake project tonight. All new rears, NNBS fronts. New AC Delco performance calipers painted with POR15, R1 concepts rotors/pads, goodridge lines.
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I used the Goodridge rubber clamps to route the lines. I also cut the factory ones (and hit them with high heat black, wth), so i could retain the spot to clip the wheel speed sensor cable.
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Also touched up the red on the tires. With the calipers, center caps, and tires, I figure I'm around +10hp per corner now. Will get some daylight shots and do the bedding tomorrow...
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I was wondering when you said you hope to be driving it in the next 2 months!I really hope not. I reminded him he's had it for 4 months, and it's actually been 1 year since it's been undriveable. I didn't want to be put on the back burner--AGAIN. He said he wants to get rid of it as much as I want it back. So I let him know where I was coming from.