Driver's door switches are "dead"

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Daniel B Martin

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2004 GMC Yukon SLT VIN 1GKFK16Z54J122888

New Member, first post.

I recently acquired this vehicle knowing it needs a lot of work.

All the electric switches on the driver's door are "dead." The power windows operate normally from each individual door switch, except the driver's door. Same for the power door locks.

A YouTube search points to several videos which demonstrate "fixes" by disassembling the switch box and cleaning terminals on a PCB (printed circuit board). That resolved a specific window or door which did not respond to the switch.

My Yukon acts as if it has no power going to the driver's door. I need to know ...
- which fuse(s) protect this circuit
- the color of the wire(s) which bring power from the body to the door

I have plenty of tools and Do-It-Yourself experience but no prior knowledge of GM products. {Been driving and fixing Japanese vehicles since 1987.}

Information, advice, and encouragement are welcomed. Thank you!
 

wjburken

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2004 GMC Yukon SLT VIN 1GKFK16Z54J122888

New Member, first post.

I recently acquired this vehicle knowing it needs a lot of work.

All the electric switches on the driver's door are "dead." The power windows operate normally from each individual door switch, except the driver's door. Same for the power door locks.

A YouTube search points to several videos which demonstrate "fixes" by disassembling the switch box and cleaning terminals on a PCB (printed circuit board). That resolved a specific window or door which did not respond to the switch.

My Yukon acts as if it has no power going to the driver's door. I need to know ...
- which fuse(s) protect this circuit
- the color of the wire(s) which bring power from the body to the door

I have plenty of tools and Do-It-Yourself experience but no prior knowledge of GM products. {Been driving and fixing Japanese vehicles since 1987.}

Information, advice, and encouragement are welcomed. Thank you!
First off, welcome to the forum from Iowa. Lots of knowledgeable folks on here.

I would start by making sure you don’t have a loose connection at the switch and that you are getting power to the switch, but my guess is you have a bad switch. They are about $120-$130 at RockAuto. Removing the switch to see if cleaning the contacts shouldn’t be too difficult and worth a shot before buying a new switch.

One thing to keep in mind is that switch is the one that’s most likely to get wet like when you're at a drive thru with the window down and it rains into the vehicle a little. It also the one that gets the most use in a vehicle and gets bounced around the most when the door gets closed.
 

swathdiver

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2004 GMC Yukon SLT VIN 1GKFK16Z54J122888

New Member, first post.

I recently acquired this vehicle knowing it needs a lot of work.

All the electric switches on the driver's door are "dead." The power windows operate normally from each individual door switch, except the driver's door. Same for the power door locks.

A YouTube search points to several videos which demonstrate "fixes" by disassembling the switch box and cleaning terminals on a PCB (printed circuit board). That resolved a specific window or door which did not respond to the switch.

My Yukon acts as if it has no power going to the driver's door. I need to know ...
- which fuse(s) protect this circuit
- the color of the wire(s) which bring power from the body to the door

I have plenty of tools and Do-It-Yourself experience but no prior knowledge of GM products. {Been driving and fixing Japanese vehicles since 1987.}

Information, advice, and encouragement are welcomed. Thank you!

Welcome Daniel, do you have a bi-directional scan tool that can read BCM codes? That's where I'd start.
 
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Daniel B Martin

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Welcome Daniel, do you have a bi-directional scan tool that can read BCM codes? That's where I'd start.
Unfortunately, no. My scan tool is the simplest variety. It reads Powertrain Control Module codes but not Body Control Module.

I'm looking for specific information such as fuse number and wire color. That information, by itself, would be a big help in troubleshooting. It's probably on the web, somewhere, but where?
 

OR VietVet

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Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

I would also look to see if the wiring loom thru the door at the hinges has any broken wires inside the flexible cover.


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.
 

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wjburken

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Unfortunately, no. My scan tool is the simplest variety. It reads Powertrain Control Module codes but not Body Control Module.

I'm looking for specific information such as fuse number and wire color. That information, by itself, would be a big help in troubleshooting. It's probably on the web, somewhere, but where?
Here is the schematic from GM Upfitters. I think what you are looking for starts around D-182

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/123/2004_LD_CKFullSizeElectrical.pdf
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

You've already got some recommendations from the great folks here to follow up on.

Hopefully, you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
 
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Daniel B Martin

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I would also look to see if the wiring loom thru the door at the hinges has any broken wires inside the flexible cover.
There is no visible wiring damage. I switched the ignition to RUN. With the door open I used one hand to press the driver door switches and the other hand to flex the harness in all directions. A broken wire might have made momentary contact and caused a window to "twitch" but that didn't happen.

We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc.
Good suggestion, and now done! As a newbie I didn't realize the value of doing this.
 

swathdiver

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Unfortunately, no. My scan tool is the simplest variety. It reads Powertrain Control Module codes but not Body Control Module.

I'm looking for specific information such as fuse number and wire color. That information, by itself, would be a big help in troubleshooting. It's probably on the web, somewhere, but where?

You can get a subscription to the shop manual over at AllDataDIY or buy it in download or CD form from SeriousCTBuyer on ebay. A Tech-2 is what these things were made to be worked on by and having one would quickly pay for itself so consider that.
 
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