Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
For stability? Weird.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Oil change because it wasn’t done before I bought it.
lots of lash in the front diff pinion. Pattern doesn’t look good. At least not to my untrained eye.
lots of lash in the front diff pinion. Pattern doesn’t look good. At least not to my untrained eye.
Last edited:
ya the maf sensor data controls a bunch of stuff including how the transmission shifts, so if unmetered air is getting sucked in it can cause all kinds of problems, the newer trucks are even more picky on my 2018 if I even take a plastic sleeve out of the cai it gives me a lean code bank 2 and makes it shift weird.
Peter Tremonti
Member
I replaced all of the peanut bulbs in the headlights and tail lights (168 bulbs I think). I noticed the driver's side brake light wasn't working. Decided to check the bulbs and found out all 3 bulbs on the driver's side were dimmer than the right. Pulled the bulbs to check them and found after removing the top bulb, all the running lights died... Found a bad repair on the body side of the harness and fixed it. Put the tail light in before testing (because that's how you fix things right?) Bulbs were still dim. It looks like somebody bypassed the connector ground wire all together previously and they didn't fix it after fixing it poorly on the body side of the harness (it pulled out and didn't have any heatshrink either). Anyways... wiring is fixed and all the bulbs are working again.
I glued in the mounting screws in the license plate bulb holder panel since they were all spun out of the housing and it was rattling like crazy. Also replaced the glass release button since it had already fallen apart.
Changed the oil with some Rotella and a WIX filter to see the condition of the engine. Not an abnormal amount of metal or anything.
Disassembled the driver's window switch to see if the contacts are dirty like some of the truck switches I've seen in youtube videos. They were not and my driver's window switch still doesn't work at the moment. I'm assuming the switch anyways. The motor works when direct powered. All of the other windows work with the driver's door switch... Still figuring out that one.
Installed a new rear wiper arm and cleaned off the motor splines after prying off the corroded old wiper lug.
I stapled the air box back together and knocked the dust off the old filter since I don't have a new one yet.
I glued in the mounting screws in the license plate bulb holder panel since they were all spun out of the housing and it was rattling like crazy. Also replaced the glass release button since it had already fallen apart.
Changed the oil with some Rotella and a WIX filter to see the condition of the engine. Not an abnormal amount of metal or anything.
Disassembled the driver's window switch to see if the contacts are dirty like some of the truck switches I've seen in youtube videos. They were not and my driver's window switch still doesn't work at the moment. I'm assuming the switch anyways. The motor works when direct powered. All of the other windows work with the driver's door switch... Still figuring out that one.
Installed a new rear wiper arm and cleaned off the motor splines after prying off the corroded old wiper lug.
I stapled the air box back together and knocked the dust off the old filter since I don't have a new one yet.
Got lots of stuff done then. Nice.
trailblazer
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2019
- Posts
- 291
- Reaction score
- 405
Installed a Rockville SS8P poweredsub today. Then drained the 8300 miles Amsoil.
Kee Fuller
Full Access Member
I got a driver's master switch if ya need one for sale
looks like someone did a repair on the rear wiper washer fluid line also, unless that is something else
Peter Tremonti
Member
The first picture is of the bad tail light wiring if that's the one you're wondering about.
it' behind the light harness where the 2 big zip ties are
Mickey_7106
Full Access Member
Interesting, never crossed my mind to attempt this. Ive read mixed reviews on those powered subs, but im wondering how they compare to the bose crap that's already there
Installed a Rockville SS8P poweredsub today. Then drained the 8300 miles Amsoil.
if you have the bose system then you would need to yank it all out to put a aftermarket sub in the same place there is no room otherwise
Kee Fuller
Full Access Member
I got an aftermarket 8 inch jbl there. I want a lil more thump and kinda want to upgrade to a 10 inch.
avalonandl
Full Access Member
I have to see if my sub is still working...
Just plug in Harry Nilssons "Jump into the Fire" or Stanley Clarkes "Justices Groove"
The bass lines in those will let you know if the sub is working.....
Just plug in Harry Nilssons "Jump into the Fire" or Stanley Clarkes "Justices Groove"
The bass lines in those will let you know if the sub is working.....
Imo don’t try one of those slim powered subs. I bought one and they don’t put out real bass, more like mid bass. I took it out and bought one of Rodneys Boxes for the console and put a 10” JL with an amp in. It hits hard especially for a concealed box, fits perfect in the console and makes use of all available space so you can install a decent sub.https://www.ebay.com/itm/221236119840
I had one and imo it sucked, no real bass but more like mid bass. There’s no volume to the enclosure so there’s no thump. They’re better than nothing though.
Peter Tremonti
Member
Didn't notice that honestly. That was there already.
Yeah I spent the extra money and got the ARP because I knew I would have to remove it to do the cam.
Yeah thankfully the front crank seal is super easy on the LS based motors
Mickey_7106
Full Access Member
i wonder if this will fit. 300w rms 600w peak https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3008P/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-8P.html
