Trouble filling up the gas tank

[Goodfootin]

As for the battery, no. Also, the plug is recessed into the cap, so I would need the parts on the tester to reach them (sorry, don't have the vocabulary on what also those parts are). But the blowing is a good tip. At least I'll know what to do when I get a tester. Thank you!

 

[Goodfootin]

You can remove the end on top of the engine. You have to take off the engine cover and it’s basically right in the middle towards the front. It has a gray or green press clip thing and a rubber gasket.

Are you referring to the purge valve?

 

[treehan77]

I just used alligator clips to clip onto to the leads inside the plug

 

[treehan77]

Are you referring to the purge valve?

Yes. Take that off, so you have both ends of the line free and blow air through that one also

 

[Goodfootin]

I just used alligator clips to clip onto to the leads inside the plug

Makes sense. Just don't have what I need at my house.

 

[Goodfootin]

Yes. Take that off, so you have both ends of the line free and blow air through that one also

Got it. Will do. Thanks!

 

[treehan77]

You can buy a multimeter for like $9 almost anywhere!

 

[Goodfootin]

You can buy a multimeter for like $9 almost anywhere!

That would be a smart move if I plan to keep trying to repair things on my own.

 

[treehan77]

Not to mention around the house also.

 

[RoosterTX]

I'm glad my experience is proving helpful to someone!

I think the vac line in question is the line going to the purge valve, which is up in the V of the engine. I disconnected the engine side and the charcoal canister side and blew compressed air through it to clear it out.

regarding pressurizing the tank, yes I believe you can definitely damage something by over doing it. And by all means, only use a manual pump that does not create any spark whatsoever, after all this is a fuel tank that could definitely cause you a big problem otherwise. I used a cheapo fluid pump from the auto part store, and I used the line coming off the evap canister only because i'd already replaced the hose going to it with a radiator hose (saw someone else give that advice when starting my search about this problem). All those OEM lines have the fittings on the end that would make it hard to get a seal, the hose I replaced worked awesome for this. You should be able to use whatever line you want to though.

I didn't pressurize very much at all. But I repeated the cycle probably 20 times until almost nothing was coming out any more. Start out very light, see how it goes and judge if you need to go heavier. But yes, I believe you could damage a seal if you go to hard, I wouldn't recommend compressed air at all. The fluid pump allowed me the confidence to know that I wouldn't over do it.

 

[RoosterTX]

I tested my parts just using the car battery and some leader wires

 

[Goodfootin]

Thank you again! Your write up with pics and labels was tremendous!

 

[treehan77]

Like he said, if you do t have a bench tester for 12v, use the battery and attach some wires. Be careful there. Might want to unhook the - from the truck lol

 

[Goodfootin]

Ha! Yeah, might be a good idea.

Here is another question out of ignorance. Are the leads inside the canister plug interchangeable, or is one positive and one negative? If it matters to which one I apply +/-, how do I determine which one is which?

 

[treehan77]

You could look at the plug that goes to it and determine that way. I don’t remember the colors. If you had a multimeter, you could check that, then do the same on your test. I don’t think it’ll matter for bench testing.

 

[Goodfootin]

I may try to make an adapter for the tank vent line by cutting off the pipe on the old charcoal canister.

This was a brilliant idea. Worked perfectly!

Rooster, your solution for pressurizing the tank and letting it exhale did the trick! The vent line looked like the big black inmate in The Green Mile exhaling the bad stuff. Pellets flew everywhere, and after 3 or 4 times, it was totally clear. Also got a few dozen pellets out of the line up to the purge valve. Refueled this morning with no trouble at all. And Treehan, thanks for the tips on testing my parts. Bought a multimeter and made sure the solenoid and the wiring were all functioning properly.
I'm likely one of the least mechanically savvy people on this forum, but I'm smart enough to know that I'm not that smart, so I don't take risks and screw up my truck. I'm cheap, so I don't want to pay a mechanic a ton of money, and I can read and follow directions. All of you who posted great info in here just saved a high school teacher a bunch of money, and I cannot thank y'all enough. It is greatly appreciated!!!

 

[treehan77]

Glad you got it. Filling the tank for 49 minutes sucks!

 

[DenaliReyes]

What headache , I need to clean the line again. I keep seeing bits of charcoal on the purge solenoid. I recently changed everything is new the purge valve the evap can, the solenoid. I just tried vacuuming the line. Hope this helps but I still hear rattles of bits of coal. Will see

 

[Soop]

Quick question. If you did take it to a mechanic to replace Evap system and lines, etc, what would be an approximate cost?

 

[treehan77]

$1000

 

[stubbs]

Do any of you guys know if this problem also applies to the NNBS Suburbans?

I’ve got an ‘07 2500 (6.0 LY6) that I think is stuck with the same issue. I just went to fill it up for the first time today and found that despite the gauge showing empty, it wouldn’t take more than 31 gallons AND fuel came flowing back out the filler before the gas pump shut off the first time.

Since the 2500 has the 6 gallon aux tank, I’m guessing I’ve got a venting problem somewhere that’s causing the aux tank to not fill and/or the main tank to not vent properly while filling and shut off early. No CEL or any other problems though.