ALC, AutoLevel, Autoride, Magnaride, Premium Ride

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73Vetteman

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It seems there is great confusion regarding the above terms. To make it more confusing, your vehicle can have 2 of the systems at the same time.

Premium ride appears to me to be just an advertising gimmick. Someone chime in and correct me if I am wrong.

Autoride, or magnaride utilizes electronically controlled shock absorbers frequently combined with slightly softer springs but at the same ride height. Top of the line vehicles such as LTZ Tahoe and Yukon Denali have that system and it was not available on lower option models. The processor for that system controls how stiff the shock action is by controlling the magnetic particles of the oil inside the shock.

Autolevel or ALC is part of the optional trailer tow option. That option replaces Standard rear shocks or the Autoride rear shocks with air leveling shocks. Linkage rods attached to rear control arms send a signal to the controller to raise the rear of the vehicle if a drop in height is detected such as when the vehicle is loaded or trailer attached. Air pressure is released after the load is removed to lower the vehicle back to normal height. Vehicles with both Autoride and Autolevel will then have magnetically controlled shocks in the front only and air controlled shocks in the rear. Vehicles with standard suspension with the trailer option will have standard shocks in front and air controlled shocks in back.

When lifting or lowering a vehicle with the Autolevel option, the length of the linkage rod has to be adjusted in order to calibrate the controller so it inflates the shocks when the vehicle is lower than the new chosen height or deflate when the height is higher than the chosen height. I purchased 3" long all threaded 1/8" bolts from Home Depot and after cutting the heads off screwed the end caps off of the original rods to make the rods adjustable. A 1 /16" adjustment in the length makes a significant difference in vehicle height calibration.
 

iamdub

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Basically, yeah. lol

The term "Autoride" is all too commonly misused when referring to the Auto Level Control (ALC). It makes things confusing when shopping for drop components or when diagnosing issues after a drop.

If I'm not mistaken, the Premium Ride is actually a third spring option from GM. There's the standard coil setup, the one for the ALC-equipped units and then the Premium Ride package which I believe is standard on the Escalade. I could Google it but I'm kinda preoccupied elsewhere at the moment.
 

swathdiver

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It seems there is great confusion regarding the above terms. To make it more confusing, your vehicle can have 2 of the systems at the same time.

Premium ride appears to me to be just an advertising gimmick. Someone chime in and correct me if I am wrong.

Autoride, or magnaride utilizes electronically controlled shock absorbers frequently combined with slightly softer springs but at the same ride height. Top of the line vehicles such as LTZ Tahoe and Yukon Denali have that system and it was not available on lower option models. The processor for that system controls how stiff the shock action is by controlling the magnetic particles of the oil inside the shock.

Autolevel or ALC is part of the optional trailer tow option. That option replaces Standard rear shocks or the Autoride rear shocks with air leveling shocks. Linkage rods attached to rear control arms send a signal to the controller to raise the rear of the vehicle if a drop in height is detected such as when the vehicle is loaded or trailer attached. Air pressure is released after the load is removed to lower the vehicle back to normal height. Vehicles with both Autoride and Autolevel will then have magnetically controlled shocks in the front only and air controlled shocks in the rear. Vehicles with standard suspension with the trailer option will have standard shocks in front and air controlled shocks in back.

When lifting or lowering a vehicle with the Autolevel option, the length of the linkage rod has to be adjusted in order to calibrate the controller so it inflates the shocks when the vehicle is lower than the new chosen height or deflate when the height is higher than the chosen height. I purchased 3" long all threaded 1/8" bolts from Home Depot and after cutting the heads off screwed the end caps off of the original rods to make the rods adjustable. A 1 /16" adjustment in the length makes a significant difference in vehicle height calibration.

Basically, yes.

Z71 Off-Road Suspension Package - HD Springs and Rancho Shocks and Struts

ZW7 Premium Smooth Ride Suspension - HD Springs and ACDelco Shocks and Struts

Z55 Autoride Suspension Package - Softer Springs out back, Air Shocks in the rear, standard springs and shocks up front. Air Compressor to control level (G69)

Z95 Magnetic Ride Control - Mangeride electronics shocks and strusts all around.

These are certainly the RPOs for the previous generation, some of them may have changed for the K2s, not sure.
 

iamdub

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Basically, yes.

Z71 Off-Road Suspension Package - HD Springs and Rancho Shocks and Struts

ZW7 Premium Smooth Ride Suspension - HD Springs and ACDelco Shocks and Struts

Z55 Autoride Suspension Package - Softer Springs out back, Air Shocks in the rear, standard springs and shocks up front. Air Compressor to control level (G69)

Z95 Magnetic Ride Control - Mangeride electronics shocks and strusts all around.

These are certainly the RPOs for the previous generation, some of them may have changed for the K2s, not sure.

Ah- there's four options. I forget about the Z71 stuff. I had a feeling you'd step in and set it straight! :thumbsup:
 

GCATX

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Maybe someone knowledgeable can help. My wife's 18 escalade rides like crap, to me anyway. I went as far as putting 20's with more rubber than the factory 22's. It certainly helped, but you can still feel every little imperfection in the road, concrete roads are horrible. Aired tires down to 30, I still don't like it. It's probably a deal where the dealer will say it's normal, but I don't think it is acceptable.

I have seen kits with new shocks and a resistor, curious if just adding the resistor would allow the shock to go to full soft position. I assume, with my luck, that the shock will probably default to the full stiff position.

Anyone know?
 

Doubeleive

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Basically, yes.

Z71 Off-Road Suspension Package - HD Springs and Rancho Shocks and Struts

ZW7 Premium Smooth Ride Suspension - HD Springs and ACDelco Shocks and Struts

Z55 Autoride Suspension Package - Softer Springs out back, Air Shocks in the rear, standard springs and shocks up front. Air Compressor to control level (G69)

Z95 Magnetic Ride Control - Mangeride electronics shocks and strusts all around.

These are certainly the RPOs for the previous generation, some of them may have changed for the K2s, not sure.
close Z55 has computer controlled front struts and rear shocks and alc
Z95 also has alc
Z55: Autoride automatic load-leveling suspension system, using computer-controlled shocks and struts that adjust to road conditions •
Z71: Conventional monotube shocks that can be replaced with aftermarket monotube units •
Z95: MagneRide magnetorheological damper system, utilizing magnetically controlled shocks and struts •
ZW7: Premium Smooth Ride suspension, using conventional shocks in the front and self-leveling Nivomat shocks in the rear
 

swathdiver

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Maybe someone knowledgeable can help. My wife's 18 escalade rides like crap, to me anyway. I went as far as putting 20's with more rubber than the factory 22's. It certainly helped, but you can still feel every little imperfection in the road, concrete roads are horrible. Aired tires down to 30, I still don't like it. It's probably a deal where the dealer will say it's normal, but I don't think it is acceptable.

I have seen kits with new shocks and a resistor, curious if just adding the resistor would allow the shock to go to full soft position. I assume, with my luck, that the shock will probably default to the full stiff position.

Anyone know?

Which suspension system does it have? Can you post up the "G" and "Z" RPO codes please?
 

swathdiver

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close Z55 has computer controlled front struts and rear shocks and alc
Z95 also has alc
Z55: Autoride automatic load-leveling suspension system, using computer-controlled shocks and struts that adjust to road conditions •
Z71: Conventional monotube shocks that can be replaced with aftermarket monotube units •
Z95: MagneRide magnetorheological damper system, utilizing magnetically controlled shocks and struts •
ZW7: Premium Smooth Ride suspension, using conventional shocks in the front and self-leveling Nivomat shocks in the rear

What does the computer do to the front shocks on Z55? Are they still using Nivomats in the K2s? I was beginning to think that I was wrong and that they stopped using them in the 800s.
 

Doubeleive

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What does the computer do to the front shocks on Z55? Are they still using Nivomats in the K2s? I was beginning to think that I was wrong and that they stopped using them in the 800s.
it's magnetic ride control, it's just not the "good" magnetic ride control, z95 has some special fluid in it so it works slightly better.
upload_2020-1-3_0-34-44.png
 

Ron McKuin

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Maybe someone knowledgeable can help. My wife's 18 escalade rides like crap, to me anyway. I went as far as putting 20's with more rubber than the factory 22's. It certainly helped, but you can still feel every little imperfection in the road, concrete roads are horrible. Aired tires down to 30, I still don't like it. It's probably a deal where the dealer will say it's normal, but I don't think it is acceptable.

I have seen kits with new shocks and a resistor, curious if just adding the resistor would allow the shock to go to full soft position. I assume, with my luck, that the shock will probably default to the full stiff position.

Anyone know?
I have similar issues with my 2019 SLT Yukon!! Rides terrible and has a rumbling/booming noise. I’m not getting any help from my dealer yet?! I have the “Premium Soft Ride Package” that is more like the “Rides Like A Log Wagon” ride!! Sorry and wish I could help!!
 

Oh Kee Pah

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Maybe someone knowledgeable can help. My wife's 18 escalade rides like crap, to me anyway. I went as far as putting 20's with more rubber than the factory 22's. It certainly helped, but you can still feel every little imperfection in the road, concrete roads are horrible. Aired tires down to 30, I still don't like it. It's probably a deal where the dealer will say it's normal, but I don't think it is acceptable.

I have seen kits with new shocks and a resistor, curious if just adding the resistor would allow the shock to go to full soft position. I assume, with my luck, that the shock will probably default to the full stiff position.

Anyone know?


From my research in the past I came up with 5 different rear coil springs being installed on the GM vehicles. You don't have the PPV unit listed and I'm not 100% clear on the Heavy Duty Tow Package. I think the Tow Package has a different rear spring...

My 2015 LTZ had the MRC at all 4 corners. The rear rode like a dump truck.
I have installed Xineering's GM Shock Sims MRC delete sensors at all 4 corners and gone to a complete passive suspension setup. Using Fox up front and Bilstein in back.
I have my truck leveled up with a 1" spacer in the rear; HOWEVER, when I did the new rear shocks and spacer I also purchased and installed a NEW set of the z71 rear coil springs.
The owner of Xineering is using his own MRC delete on his Tahoe and using the Monroe passive replacements. Basically when you use his MRC delete sensors you can then install ANY rear shock that would fit a TAHOE LT trim. Up front you can replace the ENTIRE strut assembly and install a new coilover that fits any TAHOE LT trim. The MRC delete kits using brackets and rod extensions only "tricks" the computer and does NOT allow you to run different shocks on LTZ or Denalis.
 

swathdiver

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Z75 and Z95, didn't see a "G" code.

Ok Z95 is for the Magneride Suspension. I reckon that there are internal trouble codes, when a shock stops working properly, the system won't ride right. Gotta have the codes and be able to perform diagnostics and resets on it. A bi-directional scan tool can do this. Wes created an economical solution with a tablet and OBDII adapter and some software. If interested, send him a PM, @Doubeleive
 

Seamus

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Maybe someone knowledgeable can help. My wife's 18 escalade rides like crap, to me anyway. I went as far as putting 20's with more rubber than the factory 22's. It certainly helped, but you can still feel every little imperfection in the road, concrete roads are horrible. Aired tires down to 30, I still don't like it. It's probably a deal where the dealer will say it's normal, but I don't think it is acceptable.

I have seen kits with new shocks and a resistor, curious if just adding the resistor would allow the shock to go to full soft position. I assume, with my luck, that the shock will probably default to the full stiff position.

Anyone know?

Thats the way they are and designed. I had a 2015 Denali XL and a 2017 Denali XL. The '15 was a dump truck, the '17 was better but just NOT a nice ride. Dealer explained to me they were designed that way to lower their rollover rate. Well I can agree that it was fast as hell and handled turns well at higher speed. But the ride sucked. I had more problems with this new generation truck than any other GM vehicle I ever owned. (which is many!) Between the horrible seats, and the crappy ride after 3 years of warranting a host of other issues I gave up. As you can see from some other posts, it's a common complaint. I loved alot about the truck and was pretty close to changing out the suspension after tons of research when I got a grip on myself and reminded myself how much I paid for that truck...2 times!! I traded on an S550 and bought a 2013 LTZ suburban as our second vehicle which has worked out good for me. The prior generation just had a better ride and seats. Wish it had the 6.2 and a 10 speed though!!! LOL
It amazing once the new car smell and happy first impressions fade...those same issues pop up for many guys. For me at that price point it just wasn't a refined vehicle.

I will say this. I considered every SUV out there at that point. Came close to the GLS550. Nothing really compares to an Escalade or Denali as far as speed, fuel mileage, presence, capability, towing, cost of maintenance. It was really so unfortunate they didn't fine tune this truck for comfort and luxury as they should have. Everyone of my friends commented on how "tight" and rough my trucks rode.....and I live in Florida with excellent roads!! At this price point it became very unacceptable. If you love the truck you can dump some money into it but expect to lose every penny of it when you trade out of it. Thats what made my decision to cut and run. Good luck
 
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GCATX

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Thats the way they are and designed. I had a 2015 Denali XL and a 2017 Denali XL. The '15 was a dump truck, the '17 was better but just NOT a nice ride. Dealer explained to me they were designed that way to lower their rollover rate. Well I can agree that it was fast as hell and handled turns well at higher speed. But the ride sucked. I had more problems with this new generation truck than any other GM vehicle I ever owned. (which is many!) Between the horrible seats, and the crappy ride after 3 years of warranting a host of other issues I gave up. As you can see from some other posts, it's a common complaint. I loved alot about the truck and was pretty close to changing out the suspension after tons of research when I got a grip on myself and reminded myself how much I paid for that truck...2 times!! I traded on an S550 and bought a 2013 LTZ suburban as our second vehicle which has worked out good for me. The prior generation just had a better ride and seats. Wish it had the 6.2 and a 10 speed though!!! LOL
It amazing once the new car smell and happy first impressions fade...those same issues pop up for many guys. For me at that price point it just wasn't a refined vehicle.

I will say this. I considered every SUV out there at that point. Came close to the GLS550. Nothing really compares to an Escalade or Denali as far as speed, fuel mileage, presence, capability, towing, cost of maintenance. It was really so unfortunate they didn't fine tune this truck for comfort and luxury as they should have. Everyone of my friends commented on how "tight" and rough my trucks rode.....and I live in Florida with excellent roads!! At this price point it became very unacceptable. If you love the truck otherwise you can dump some money into it but expect to lose every penny of it when you trade out of it. Thats what made my decision to cut and run. Good luck

Well said. We got a really good deal on it and my wife really loves it. I just can't bring myself to drive it, given a choice. I think the cop tahoe we got for my son, with 198k miles, rides better and that's with cop shocks and springs. Our raptor is on a whole other level though, it's our desired vehicle for any road trips.

I think I will probably try just disconnecting the shock electronics and put the resistors in place to see if that will smooth things out. If the magna shocks do some crazy stuff disconnected, I will buy some non-magna replacements. Otherwise, it is a very impressive truck.
 

iamdub

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Well said. We got a really good deal on it and my wife really loves it. I just can't bring myself to drive it, given a choice. I think the cop tahoe we got for my son, with 198k miles, rides better and that's with cop shocks and springs. Our raptor is on a whole other level though, it's our desired vehicle for any road trips.

I think I will probably try just disconnecting the shock electronics and put the resistors in place to see if that will smooth things out. If the magna shocks do some crazy stuff disconnected, I will buy some non-magna replacements. Otherwise, it is a very impressive truck.

My 2008 rode overly stiff so I unplugged the shocks as a test and it rode super soft. Felt great on a smooth road and going perfectly straight. But if I hit the shallowest dip or slightly jigged the wheel, it would start a top-heavy oscillation that could easily get out of control. I only drove like that for about 2 miles then had to plug them back in before I wrecked it.

I now have lowering struts and shocks with the resistors to spoof the computer and all is well.
 

Seamus

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Well said. We got a really good deal on it and my wife really loves it. I just can't bring myself to drive it, given a choice. I think the cop tahoe we got for my son, with 198k miles, rides better and that's with cop shocks and springs. Our raptor is on a whole other level though, it's our desired vehicle for any road trips.

I think I will probably try just disconnecting the shock electronics and put the resistors in place to see if that will smooth things out. If the magna shocks do some crazy stuff disconnected, I will buy some non-magna replacements. Otherwise, it is a very impressive truck.

Don't waste your time disconnecting it....it will still ride very tight. The spring rate is just high. As posted above Fox is a fantastic shock and properly picked can have a great ride, if you also change the springs. Fox makes the shocks for the Raptor. But they also have the correct spring rate with that specific shock.

My friend had the old Raptor and... now the new one.........what an awesome ride!!! That is a luxury ride!!!! He literally can ride over a parking bumper and it rides nicer than my Denali did!! But as I tell him............Sorry bro...it's a Ford, can't do it!!! LOL

I was so mad when I finally gave up on my truck. I mean Jesus it was 95% great and the 5% outweighed it! But at over 70K I didn't think my pet project should be re engineering the ride of my luxury truck!!!!!

Hope they get the new one right.
 

nofaz

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When I have 4 people in my 13' Yukon Denali the air compressor seems to run constantly. With just 2, no problems, it runs at startup and quits after 10 seconds or so. I'm guessing I need new rear shocks? Any experience with this problem? Just noticed this 2 weeks ago.
 

iamdub

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When I have 4 people in my 13' Yukon Denali the air compressor seems to run constantly. With just 2, no problems, it runs at startup and quits after 10 seconds or so. I'm guessing I need new rear shocks? Any experience with this problem? Just noticed this 2 weeks ago.

The usual chain of failure starts with the air bladders leaking, but there are plenty of other possibilities. Spray the bladders and air lines where they plug into the shocks with soapy water and look for bubbles. If none, you're gonna have to drop the compressor and spray around that end of the lines. There's a chance of an internal leak with the exhaust valve of the compressor, but chances are that the air bladders are worn and leaking. It's a good thing you noticed it now. Most people don't realize a problem until after the compressor is dead. Oh, you might wanna have that weight in the back to help promote the leakage.
 

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