Oil Change Interval ?

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donjetman

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OAI kits thru Amsoil include TBN, oxidation, nitration, etc at the price I mentioned previously.
 
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donjetman

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Used Oil Analysis(UOA) and Return on Equity(ROE)

10+ yrs ago before I started doing UOA, I changed my oil & filter every 3K miles. Now, on my FJ, I change them every 12-15k miles. On the Yukon it's lookin like every 8-9k miles. I'll let yaw do the math.

I no longer need to keep doing UOA, but I do because why?(read the 1st sentence of post #1 here)
 

HiHoeSilver

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OAI kits thru Amsoil include TBN, oxidation, nitration, etc at the price I mentioned previously.

Right on. Just mentioning another popular option. I like the way Blackstone does their thing. I enjoy the personal touch. Theres a note on each one that says "Hey Nate, check on this, what's up with this, did you do this, try this.....etc."

Side note, go read their FAQ page of you ever need a good chuckle.
 
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donjetman

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A long time ago I sent a sample to both OAI and Blackstone labs just to see if the results would be the same, They were. The TBN# was about 2.2, and OAI said to change the oil & filter, and Blackstone said to keep running it. So I choose OAI.
I like the fact that Blackstone has a larger data base and gives the "universal avg". And Blackstone is not afraid to do aircraft engines.
 
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donjetman

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Why Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5-40w. I thought you would never ask :)

1st) it's SN rated
2nd) I stole it. By that I mean Mobil had a mail-in rebate program on it in 2018 of $12 gal, I bought 6 gals at my local NAPA on sale for $22/gal. Minus the $12/gal equals $10/gal. I couldn't pass that up.

For 2019 Mobil has another mail-in rebate program:
https://apfco.com/secured/R10083W
But they're not as generous, only $10/gal, limit five1 gal jugs, and NAPA isn't on the "terms & conditions" list of sellers. AutoZone and O'reilly is, so maybe I can catch a sale there.

Mobil also sells Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5-30w. If I can kind find a deal, maybe I'll stock up on it.
 
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donjetman

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Mobil also sells Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5-30w. If I can kind find a deal, maybe I'll stock up on it.

OK, I found a deal on Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5-30w full synthetic oil. I got an email yesterday from O'Reiillys with a 25% off orders of $100 or more and free shipping(use coupon code AUG25). Combine this discount with the 2019 Mobil mail-in rebate, https://apfco.com/secured/R10083W , of $10/gal, I'll end up paying $12.50/gal + tax to my door. SWEEEET!!!

I ordered five 1 gal containers. That will be enough oil for the Yukon & FJ for 2019 & 2020 at least.
 
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donjetman

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Cleaning the inside of the engine slowly

We bought this 07 Yukon Denali 6.2L last Oct. w/130k miles from a used car lot without any mx history. I figured out real quick that the previous owner did NOT take very good care of it. I payed less than $10k for it, so I got what I payed for. But, it had good oil pressure and drove like a dream. Since I'm a DIYer, I fixed the leaks by changing the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket. I cured the oil burning by installing the new improved driver side valve cover and performing TSB 10-06-01-008M. I made a lot of posts here w/pics last Nov & Dec when I was doing all this work. When I had things apart, it was easy to see that there is a lot of gunk/crud built up inside the engine from its prior life.

I believe now the engine is being cleaned slowly with the high quality engine oil that I'm using, Mobil Delvac 1 ESP. The filter element pictured below has 7800 miles(35% remaining) on it. The engine had 148+K miles and 4634 hrs on it. You can see the debris that the oil filter is catching in the bottom of the folds. IMO the detergent additives in this oil are doing a good job of slowly cleaning things up in this engine.

I perfer not add anything to the engine oil/crankcase like Kreen etc to quickly remove the debris on the inside of an engine. I fear large chunk(s) will become dislodged and might block an oil passage(s) and/or score a bearing before being caught by my full flow and/or bypass filter(s).

When the filter was removed, I changed the oil to Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5-30w and installed another Fram XG10575. I left the Amsoil EaBP90 in place for another run. We recently did another 2000 mile hwy trip. We averaged 65 mph and 17.5 mpg. I'll do another used oil analysis when this oilhas about 8k miles on it.

View media item 27985
 
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Tonyrodz

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Cleaning the inside of the engine slowly

We bought this 07 Yukon Denali 6.2L last Oct. w/130k miles from a used car lot without any mx history. I figured out real quick that the previous owner did NOT real good care of it. I payed less than $10k for it, so I got what I payed for. But, it had good oil pressure and drove like a dream. Since I'm a DIYer, I fixed the leaks by changing the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket. I cured the oil burning by installing the new improved driver side valve cover and performing TSB 10-06-01-008M. I made a lot of posts here w/pics last Nov & Dec when I was doing all this work. When I had things apart, it was easy to see that there is a lot of gunk/crud built up inside the engine from its prior life.

I believe now the engine is being cleaned slowly with the high quality engine oil that I'm using, Mobil Delvac 1 ESP. The filter element pictured below has 7800 miles(35% remaining) on it. The engine had 148+K miles and 4634 hrs on it. You can see the debris that the oil filter is catching in the bottom of the folds. IMO the detergent additives in this oil are doing a good job of slowly cleaning things up in this engine.

I perfer not add anything to the engine oil/crankcase like Kreen etc to quickly remove the debris on the inside of an engine. I fear large chunk(s) will become dislodged and might block an oil passage(s) and/or score a bearing before being caught by my full flow and/or bypass filter(s).

When the filter was removed, I changed the oil to Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5-30w and installed another Fram XG10575. I left the Amsoil EaBP90 in place for another run. We recently did another 2000 mile hwy trip. We averaged 65 mph and 17.5 mpg. I'll do another used oil analysis when this oilhas about 8k miles on it.

View media item 27985
Looks like your hard work is paying off.
 

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When you cut a filter open and remove the media, do you blot it clean/dry or let it sit and drain? I've looked inside filters and I only see black, wet, shiny oil. If I removed the media, it'd just look like a shop rag soaked in oil. Just wondering how you get it to the point in your pic above, where you can see and identify the particles in the creases.
 
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donjetman

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When you cut a filter open and remove the media, do you blot it clean/dry or let it sit and drain? I've looked inside filters and I only see black, wet, shiny oil. If I removed the media, it'd just look like a shop rag soaked in oil. Just wondering how you get it to the point in your pic above, where you can see and identify the particles in the creases.

I hang it vertically for a week or two and let gravity do its thing.
 

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I looked at my dipstick, oil has about 3000 miles on it...it was fairly dirty. I am going to use my "free" oil change when I get backk up north. The OLM shows 51 % right now.

Given the fact that it had OE plugs in it at 134k miles I am not sure how religious the previous owners were on OC.
 
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I looked at my dipstick, oil has about 3000 miles on it...it was fairly dirty. I am going to use my "free" oil change when I get backk up north. The OLM shows 51 % right now.

Given the fact that it had OE plugs in it at 134k miles I am not sure how religious the previous owners were on OC.
How do you know they were original plugs?

Just curious. I just recently changed my plugs at 110k miles (bought vehicle last year with 101k miles) with ACDelco 41-110 plugs and that is the same #s that I pulled out. It ran fine and the plugs seemed fine but definitely looked like they've been in there at least a couple of years.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 

avalonandl

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How do you know they were original plugs?

Just curious. I just recently changed my plugs at 110k miles (bought vehicle last year with 101k miles) with ACDelco 41-110 plugs and that is the same #s that I pulled out. It ran fine and the plugs seemed fine but definitely looked like they've been in there at least a couple of years.

Just looking at them, the heat glazing on the creamic etc. They were OE. Same pt number as yours. Plus the erosion on the electrode. My highway gas mileage went up also. I had been at 14-15- Now at 17- 18. Changed plugs and wires.

Theres a pic in my thread.
 
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Bigkevschopshop

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I run about 4-5500 miles on my OC... Its getting a nice color change by then... But not black... You may dump some marvel mystery oil in a day or 2 before your change, let it clean up whatever may be in there if sludge etc...
 
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donjetman

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Evidence?

We bought our 07 Yukon 6.2L Denali one yr ago. We have put 16,000+ miles on it. We have done 2 oil and filter changes(8,000 miles ea) and 2 UOA, (used oil analysis). Each time I have cut the oil filter open and have found black carbon/gunk/crud at the bottom of the pleats(See pics in posts #s 1 & 27 here). I've asked myself if my extended oil change intervals are causing this stuff or is the oil I'm using, Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40, actually slowly cleaning up the carbon/gunk/crud that's stuck on the guts of the engine from it's prior life? I think I have my answer.

The oil I'm using is cleaning things up. I came to this conclusion by taking the new improved driver side valve cover off for inspection(see pic below). It is still as clean as new(the evidence). It was installed 16,000+ miles ago before we started using this oil. Here's a pic from the other day.
View media item 28002
The pic below is from a yr ago when I take the original VC off and installed the new improved one.
View media item 27448
You won't catch me adding any product(s) to my oil that might quickly break the gunk loose for fear of plugging things up.

You may remember we bought this 07 Yukon 6.2L Denali Oct. 2018 w/130k miles off a used car lot without any mx history. We figured out real quick that it burned and leaked a lot of oil. But, it had good oil pressure and drove like a dream. I am a DIYer. I fixed the leaks by changing the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. Cured the oil burning by installing the new improved driver side valve cover and performing TSB 10-06-01-008M. I made a lot of posts here w/pics last Nov & Dec when I was doing all this work. There is a lot of gunk/crud built up inside the engine from its prior life. I also installed a remote engine oil bypass filtration system that utilizes an Amsoil EaBP90 spin-on filter.

I cleaned and reinstalled the spark plugs, installed new wires, installed a catch can. Before I fixed everything, the catch can was catching about 1oz of oil every 100 miles. Now it catches 1 oz every 6000 miles. We don't need to add oil between 8,000 mile oil/filter changes.

We love our Yukon

What do ya think?
 

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Loving the in-depth documenting. I'm looking forward to the pics of the filter pleats with almost nothing in the creases. Having this thread to reference and compare is gold!
 
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donjetman

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Loving the in-depth documenting. I'm looking forward to the pics of the filter pleats with almost nothing in the creases. Having this thread to reference and compare is gold!

I don't think I'll ever see the end of crud in my filters. I say that based on the amount of crud I saw when I had things apart. But at least NOW its heading in the right direction, removing the gunk/crud it instead of adding to it.
 

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