What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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brian.roberts.1293

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I think I need to do this to my friend's '04. Replaced her driver's side window regulator yesterday and she informed me her driver's seat wasn't working. I checked the switches and... well... they're working... but the seat bottom switch is completely backwards. Up is down, down is up, forward is backward and backward is forward. The seat heaters don't work at all.

So I told her that her seat works, but for whatever reason someone put the switch in backwards or plugged the motors in backwards. She said, "No, that's the thing.... no one ever touched them. This stupid thing just went haywire all of a sudden. The electronics in it are all messed up."

Didn't occur to me while I was there to check the grounds, but that's exactly what I should've done.
Mine has done that exact thing. Just out of the blue everything is backwards.
When that reverse action of the seat motors happens, supposedly that's the bcm acting up. I've read to correct it, the bcm needs to be reflashed. Don't know if that's true, but I've run into ALOT of the reversed seat motors deal. ALOT!
Where is the bcm and how do I get it flashed? Is there other symptoms related to that also?

2004 Z71 Suburban Green I have a few upgrades done.
 

HiHoeSilver

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Oil change right at 3000 on Blackstone recommendation as my wear numbers rose markedly last time. It was insanely cold, and I ran a 6k interval. Level was a little low by the time I changed it. Hopefully they look back to my normal trends this time around.

Emptied catch can. First time with the stainless scrubber inside. Hard to compare volume since it's only a 3k interval, but seems good relatively.

20190515_184113.jpg
 

Tonyrodz

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Mine has done that exact thing. Just out of the blue everything is backwards. Where is the bcm and how do I get it flashed? Is there other symptoms related to that also?

2004 Z71 Suburban Green I have a few upgrades done.
Bcm is under the dash--under the steering column, or there abouts. I know the dealer can do the reflash, but not sure who else can.
 

mountie

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When that reverse action of the seat motors happens, supposedly that's the bcm acting up. I've read to correct it, the bcm needs to be reflashed. Don't know if that's true, but I've run into ALOT of the reversed seat motors deal. ALOT!

My '05 driver seat adjust is also backwards ( forward-back)..... At least it works....

We need a sticky

tonyrodz........ just read above .....thanks
 

Tonyrodz

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My '05 driver seat adjust is also backwards ( forward-back)..... At least it works....

We need a sticky

tonyrodz........ just read above .....thanks
I read it. Maybe someone can chime in and give an idea who can reflash the bcm, or if it's even that. I'm only going by what I've read here, on TYF.
 

HiHoeSilver

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I read it. Maybe someone can chime in and give an idea who can reflash the bcm, or if it's even that. I'm only going by what I've read here, on TYF.

It's been a while since I read about that, but are you sure it's the bcm and not the drivers door switch module?
 

Bombsquad85

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I love my foam cannon. What kind of soap are you running and what pressure washer? What kind of cannon? Mine is a 20 dollar Amazon that got great reviews.

2004 Z71 Suburban Green I have a few upgrades done.

I have the $20 Amazon foam canon too, I love it I couldnt imagine that a $80-100 one is any better. I'm using chemical guys honeydew but I might try another type next. And a gas pressure washer, unsure of the psi off the top of my head but its strong. Took my police sticker off my back window lol
 

Scottydoggs

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Cleaned up my ground connections on the driver side frame.View attachment 222998 View attachment 222996
Also added a ground wire.View attachment 222995 View attachment 222997
Hoping this helps.


that ground you added. hit the parts store and buy solder on eyelet. most of use have a plumbing kit, torch solder and flux in the house. ( well us handy guys lol) you take the eye let and clamp it in some vice grips, then heat the eyelet and then fill it 3/4 the way with solder, you just feed the solder into it it melts up nice, have the flux already on the ground wire, then push the ground wire into the eyelet and hold it for a few seconds. let it cool and install it.

if you cut back and dry fit the cable make it so the insulation is inside the eyelet a bit, this way its sealed off good and really dont even need shrink wrap tube on it.

just had to do this for my pos cable to my starter on the regal. damn thing snapped off during the engine pull.

point is see that bare wire in your pic? that meets air, air kills the wire over time, then the "dry wire" as its called creeps up the inside of the cable, and its junk. this dont happen over night, but over time.
 

HiHoeSilver

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that ground you added. hit the parts store and buy solder on eyelet. most of use have a plumbing kit, torch solder and flux in the house. ( well us handy guys lol) you take the eye let and clamp it in some vice grips, then heat the eyelet and then fill it 3/4 the way with solder, you just feed the solder into it it melts up nice, have the flux already on the ground wire, then push the ground wire into the eyelet and hold it for a few seconds. let it cool and install it.

if you cut back and dry fit the cable make it so the insulation is inside the eyelet a bit, this way its sealed off good and really dont even need shrink wrap tube on it.

just had to do this for my pos cable to my starter on the regal. damn thing snapped off during the engine pull.

point is see that bare wire in your pic? that meets air, air kills the wire over time, then the "dry wire" as its called creeps up the inside of the cable, and its junk. this dont happen over night, but over time.

Agreed. Solder that puppy.
 

TheAutumnWind

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Finished my LED "fog" lights. Thanks 01ssreda4 !
that ground you added. hit the parts store and buy solder on eyelet. most of use have a plumbing kit, torch solder and flux in the house. ( well us handy guys lol) you take the eye let and clamp it in some vice grips, then heat the eyelet and then fill it 3/4 the way with solder, you just feed the solder into it it melts up nice, have the flux already on the ground wire, then push the ground wire into the eyelet and hold it for a few seconds. let it cool and install it.

if you cut back and dry fit the cable make it so the insulation is inside the eyelet a bit, this way its sealed off good and really dont even need shrink wrap tube on it.

just had to do this for my pos cable to my starter on the regal. damn thing snapped off during the engine pull.

point is see that bare wire in your pic? that meets air, air kills the wire over time, then the "dry wire" as its called creeps up the inside of the cable, and its junk. this dont happen over night, but over time.
I like crimps rather than solder. Thats how I did my 1/0 big 3 lugs.

I love my hydraulic crimper. It basically creates a cold weld. Better than solder and faster IMHO

similar in style to this one... https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
 
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ArcticYukon

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When that reverse action of the seat motors happens, supposedly that's the bcm acting up. I've read to correct it, the bcm needs to be reflashed. Don't know if that's true, but I've run into ALOT of the reversed seat motors deal. ALOT!

Excellent. I'll let them know. 300k miles on theirs, but it's in really good shape. I'd hate to see them give up the ghost on it because of some goofy computer shenanigans.

bv7MHl6gNo_EpZkTl3qc0XA-yHJyi1n8qveGH3PC5P4ZPcqkPdICmuypWDglW7Go4mJVIlY5NiB9JFtCVzwQmNVZXR3ijrMPPQVZvxdvIxeXhbGWSVd7Q3WUHK33712tDHJduRf6Va2PaBxhS0gR0t0JzplmnvCYTjl6skNLr38uLRwbuGda7U_XCA2xC6Kj5jdUN5qzVgNn9gtj6R3llfZbM7cBBv869gOlRQep6Rt1QscjSX1ZGZRJbOFCS1v2n5JnvWhLjirifklRfh3aI7rRiOjrMvpeQYNbm8DMWiCLbN-E24S_g7gVVquIb5-aPHZ98tTwGHIA1l1w1dfrDzO2JidWUElXvXsk8jd2NwDOsMoto61L6TfWQFaJCqFA8PV7GZTO2Occ-RSicYl5zErOi9DKFeQKtt_xyWF1njjel1vCAcCF1iYAr702qEdfg4_Q1Qmh9NnOsfFZNt1O7fSD8U003d7VluA1Ev9Xfhg_lI0wA-tsbaoNilB5LX8c_YPGafuVb0xMWRHgwnMwm8QuTzoXRHcM28xzI08uIt1BXf5ix3Yx9_LiA2WpX6TLb6hSzmBTTc26gs8DQj2JuHxwPZpJ7mA29eDRYHFZbKvyio9fV0CRYTjLUsLjX8tySGO76nNuU15BxGVZ5kWWMIR7nALnOx7T=w552-h420-no


that ground you added. hit the parts store and buy solder on eyelet. most of use have a plumbing kit, torch solder and flux in the house. ( well us handy guys lol) you take the eye let and clamp it in some vice grips, then heat the eyelet and then fill it 3/4 the way with solder, you just feed the solder into it it melts up nice, have the flux already on the ground wire, then push the ground wire into the eyelet and hold it for a few seconds. let it cool and install it.

if you cut back and dry fit the cable make it so the insulation is inside the eyelet a bit, this way its sealed off good and really dont even need shrink wrap tube on it.

just had to do this for my pos cable to my starter on the regal. damn thing snapped off during the engine pull.

point is see that bare wire in your pic? that meets air, air kills the wire over time, then the "dry wire" as its called creeps up the inside of the cable, and its junk. this dont happen over night, but over time.

Yup. Just did my positive battery terminal on my Dodge this way a month ago.

sA1a4b--OGpxr0xO-RZLGMSz3GxHczMNa8Oqi_qAvLgDnZfUuo48Ct-bZbvnduS7-AToL1fwEg_MZRduQyMiTOE7mGs5VzFdFqrsB76MIY67EqBYBqzM0QoxNV_NrLoi9PO4p97GvPMSEGMSotYkHG-bsfiP8Es1VXA73MUWt7tDk-AOs8GCwL6HNJjvP-p2Petv3rOb3sgXcJg7BtkS-bu2ss9yhvOD62zRaIeH-NB441FynvHqvtcXw2eI7hOyuRMMXr1L0kveRJcRDZ1x51uer5RAIU7DzIUR20mmgusdx-JvdCqK7quXFE9bYqMNlKsV1cOFSaFsHD_HdJiIkPc3a-CsyWyoB8waVt5dRBWtRis8Ns_zUjxDIphWUEg2HmBa2_sysDc5Mfi5cq2iw45hDcT23IZLYseBhK7kQKAvKOc_wJi14pki9dxOUIp3lb5aaIbQp-W50Ox-d-rrqy147vhQyRbxIbP_eiuV_CroUo5Y2v3Z72HQEeDRiju2CDraKRt9baA7xpYk7xvvCr-1dx5gxzYnmQJpRZPEexkPwjjZB9Ca8aDBP3cBbreigpnJvN1eW8IoY4eFpT_IcroxT3bKjaH3G23EC-axyrqf9oIbEnNod9OKVfFOtVbegdMEYFFSPT6OmN8E7QqBHcEP3aFvzqqq=w1280-h720-no
 

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