Plug wire heat shields?

[Sam Harris]

You can buy longtubes with high-flow cats. I’m not sure on price for the budget headers with their y-pipe and cats but others here have gone that route. I went with American Racing longtubes with cats but they’re speedy. ( My Denali doesn’t use a y-pipe) There are other options though, you should explore. And depending on how old your cats are, they might need replacing soon anyway. Sure would be a shame to go to the expense of shorty headers and then have to replace your cats in a year or 2 and have spent the same as longtubes and new cats up front. Might have to save for awhile but that would be worth it.

So I’m really having a hard time now, deciding between shortys, and longtubes, with a new y-pipe. (Thanks a lot Rocket Man!)
Trying to research a bit, seems the longtubes are going to provide more top end hp, and definitely better for any kind of boosted motor.
OTOH, the shortys may help retain the lower rpm torque, better than the longtubes.
Since I’m not able to build a 6.0 motor, and apply forced induction at the moment, doesn’t it make sense to stick with the shortys?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

So I’m really having a hard time now, deciding between shortys, and longtubes, with a new y-pipe. (Thanks a lot Rocket Man!)
Trying to research a bit, seems the longtubes are going to provide more top end hp, and definitely better for any kind of boosted motor.
OTOH, the shortys may help retain the lower rpm torque, better than the longtubes.
Since I’m not able to build a 6.0 motor, and apply forced induction at the moment, doesn’t it make sense to stick with the shortys?

Honestly , with a couple broken bolts and a nice muffler install, I've wondered the same myself, despite all the "shortys are a waste" talk.

 

[Rocket Man]

So I’m really having a hard time now, deciding between shortys, and longtubes, with a new y-pipe. (Thanks a lot Rocket Man!)
Trying to research a bit, seems the longtubes are going to provide more top end hp, and definitely better for any kind of boosted motor.
OTOH, the shortys may help retain the lower rpm torque, better than the longtubes.
Since I’m not able to build a 6.0 motor, and apply forced induction at the moment, doesn’t it make sense to stick with the shortys?

Where did you hear the shortys will help retain lower rpm torque? The longtubes will definitely do that as long as you get the correct primary size for non-boosted applications. Just don't get 1 7/8" and instead get the 1 3/4". Or get shortys and forever wish you'd gotten "real headers" lol. People have been installing longtubes on non-boosted engines forever for real gains both low and high(er) rpm's. (Our engines don't really perform well at real high rpm's) Go ask @Tonyrodz how well they work and sound. In the end, it's up to you. I just know that no matter what engine I had, big or small, boosted or not, there would be no question which ones I'd choose.

 

[Sam Harris]

Where did you hear the shortys will help retain lower rpm torque? The longtubes will definitely do that as long as you get the correct primary size for non-boosted applications. Just don't get 1 7/8" and instead get the 1 3/4". Or get shortys and forever wish you'd gotten "real headers" lol. People have been installing longtubes on non-boosted engines forever for real gains both low and high(er) rpm's. (Our engines don't really perform well at real high rpm's) Go ask @Tonyrodz how well they work and sound. In the end, it's up to you. I just know that no matter what engine I had, big or small, boosted or not, there would be no question which ones I'd choose.

Yes, definitely 1 3/4 primaries. Just been reading up online. But honestly, it seems to have everything to do with the specific motor as well, so this forum is likely a better resource than the general intarwebz.
The idea of doing headers, and the y-pipe seems like the way to go regardless, since I’m fairly confident they’re original cats. I just don’t want to lose anything at the bottom end. Clearly, these motors are not built for high rpm in stock form.

 

[Grind]

Food for thought. Shorties with cat back add a whopping 8hp and 1tq over stock. Is it worth the money and effort?

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/129-0910-gibson-short-vs-stainless-long-headers/

 

[Rocket Man]

Food for thought. Shorties with cat back add a whopping 8hp and 1tq over stock. Is it worth the money and effort?

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/129-0910-gibson-short-vs-stainless-long-headers/

That's a pretty good article.

 

[Rocket Man]

Yes, definitely 1 3/4 primaries. Just been reading up online. But honestly, it seems to have everything to do with the specific motor as well, so this forum is likely a better resource than the general intarwebz.
The idea of doing headers, and the y-pipe seems like the way to go regardless, since I’m fairly confident they’re original cats. I just don’t want to lose anything at the bottom end. Clearly, these motors are not built for high rpm in stock form.

Just wanted to say, don’t let me or anybody else talk you into doing something you don’t want to do. If you feel more comfortable doing shortys, or think that’s the way you want to go, then don’t let me stop you. I’d feel terrible if you decided on longtubes because of me and then regretted it when you went to install them. Just make sure you get a set that others have experience with so you don’t have trouble. They don’t have to be the most expensive but make sure they’ll fit good so you don’t have install issues.

 

[Sam Harris]

Just wanted to say, don’t let me or anybody else talk you into doing something you don’t want to do. If you feel more comfortable doing shortys, or think that’s the way you want to go, then don’t let me stop you. I’d feel terrible if you decided on longtubes because of me and then regretted it when you went to install them. Just make sure you get a set that others have experience with so you don’t have trouble. They don’t have to be the most expensive but make sure they’ll fit good so you don’t have install issues.

Yes, that’s my next hurdle. I will install what I want to. I appreciate the feedback, that’s why I’m here. I want experience, and opinions on what’s been done, and results. Thanks very much for all the information.
So I really dig the kooks, but looks like they don’t coat any of theirs, so you’d have to get that done separately. I’m not looking to do that. I just figure if I’m going to spend more on this, I should get some ceramic coated headers, and I don’t want to pay a separate shop to do that.
I believe the JBA headers can be had coated from the manufacturer. Are these decent?

 

[Rocket Man]

Yes, that’s my next hurdle. I will install what I want to. I appreciate the feedback, that’s why I’m here. I want experience, and opinions on what’s been done, and results. Thanks very much for all the information.
So I really dig the kooks, but looks like they don’t coat any of theirs, so you’d have to get that done separately. I’m not looking to do that. I just figure if I’m going to spend more on this, I should get some ceramic coated headers, and I don’t want to pay a separate shop to do that.
I believe the JBA headers can be had coated from the manufacturer. Are these decent?

I’ve not heard of JBA. My AR’s are stainless as are Kooks and I see no need to coat them. Most guys don't. Again, that’s something that seems to be personal preference. I really like the way mine look and I have no problem with heat now that I have the right wires and heat shields. The coating will lower the temps by a bit but I know from using it on my Harley pipes, it only does so much. Again, not trying to say you should do it one way or the other.

 

[Sam Harris]

I’ve not heard of JBA. My AR’s are stainless as are Kooks and I see no need to coat them. Most guys don't. Again, that’s something that seems to be personal preference. I really like the way mine look and I have no problem with heat now that I have the right wires and heat shields. The coating will lower the temps by a bit but I know from using it on my Harley pipes, it only does so much. Again, not trying to say you should do it one way or the other.

View attachment 221115

Thanks again for your feedback. [emoji16] After reading quite a bit about that, seemed more necessary. If you’re saying it’s not going to cut down much on heat, then I won’t sweat it. The Taylor wires should be here tomorrow. Still need to order heat socks.

 

[Sam Harris]

Well shit, the AR headers & y-pipe system looks quite reasonable, after considering the kooks. [emoji23] GM53-99134300LSWC: $1699.95.. https://americanracingheaders.com/c...-3l-1999-2006-long-system?variant=29943902212

 

[Rocket Man]

Thanks again for your feedback. [emoji16] After reading quite a bit about that, seemed more necessary. If you’re saying it’s not going to cut down much on heat, then I won’t sweat it. The Taylor wires should be here tomorrow. Still need to order heat socks.

It will cut down on heat, not sure how much though. I personally didn’t feel like it would eliminate the need for heat shields from my experience and would not look as good as the stainless so I opted to spend more money on nice headers instead of on coating.

 

[Sam Harris]

It will cut down on heat, not sure how much though. I personally didn’t feel like it would eliminate the need for heat shields from my experience and would not look as good as the stainless so I opted to spend more money on nice headers instead of on coating.

Yeah, I like the look stainless gets from the heat anyway. [emoji16][emoji106]. Thanks again ! Now I have to save up some more dough.

 

[Rocket Man]

Well shit, the AR headers & y-pipe system looks quite reasonable, after considering the kooks. [emoji23] GM53-99134300LSWC: $1699.95.. https://americanracingheaders.com/c...-3l-1999-2006-long-system?variant=29943902212

Those are badass headers and I guarantee they will fit without any problems. The ones for my Denali are precision in the way they fit around everything and were easy to install.

 

[Sam Harris]

Those are badass headers and I guarantee they will fit without any problems. The ones for my Denali are precision in the way they fit around everything and were easy to install.

That’s what I like to hear. [emoji16]

 

[Tonyrodz]

Well shit, the AR headers & y-pipe system looks quite reasonable, after considering the kooks. [emoji23] GM53-99134300LSWC: $1699.95.. https://americanracingheaders.com/c...-3l-1999-2006-long-system?variant=29943902212

I wish I would've bought this setup.

 

[Sam Harris]

I wish I would've bought this setup.

What do you have Tony? I guess I forgot that part of your build thread.

 

[Tonyrodz]

What do you have Tony? I guess I forgot that part of your build thread.

I have speed engineering 1 3/4--with catless Y pipe.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/tonyrodzs-tahoe-build-thread.92329/page-7

 

[Sam Harris]

Got my wires and plugs.. heat socks ordered. That’s it for the cheap stuff, now I’ve gotta save a bit for those AR headers, and some stage 8 bolts. I’m guessing the AR headers should come with decent (felpro?) gaskets.. As far as correct parts, do I just order the correct gaskets & bolts for my year, etc..?

 

[Rocket Man]

Got my wires and plugs.. heat socks ordered. That’s it for the cheap stuff, now I’ve gotta save a bit for those AR headers, and some stage 8 bolts. I’m guessing the AR headers should come with decent (felpro?) gaskets.. As far as correct parts, do I just order the correct gaskets & bolts for my year, etc..?

The headers will come with gaskets, and I highly recommend ARP header bolts. They’ll never break. ARP 134-1102 Header Bolt Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5YSH70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KT2TCbVVB0624