Replacing my control arms

[JaysTahoe90]

so I got my truck serviced today for sum “squeaky noise” I have notice while driving. And when I turn the wheel. I had my mechanic just inject grease to quiet down down the noise. I just got her back and the noise is gone. He told me I would need to replace my upper/lower control arms and ball joints and 2 front axles. Can anyone help me on what brands to look for and if I should get anything else?

*side note*
2009 LS 4WD Tahoe
Supreme suspension 2.5/1 level kit

 

[Tiki]

If you are doing your Upper and Lower control arms your going to have enough off the truck to basically do your whole front end. Wheel bearings, CV boots, steering, coilover, etc.

The 2.5" lift is accelerating wear on almost all components. Question is how long do you want to own the vehicle because if you have a shop do this, your going to be for a chunk of change.

 

[Big Mama]

As for parts use oem unless you want to upgrade but you may want aftermarket suspension parts designed for a lift

 

[Lil_Stump]

If you are doing your Upper and Lower control arms your going to have enough off the truck to basically do your whole front end. Wheel bearings, CV boots, steering, coilover, etc.

The 2.5" lift is accelerating wear on almost all components. Question is how long do you want to own the vehicle because if you have a shop do this, your going to be for a chunk of change.

I second this. If I were you I’d run zone off-road UCAs, they will help with angles and they’re incredibly beefy so they’ll last. I’d also just go ahead and replace most of the front suspension parts as that will just help you in the long run. As for LCAs I’m not sure who makes good ones but I’m sure places like rock auto will sell good ones. Most of this can be done in your front yard, just takes time but will save you monumentally in labor costs, then you just have to drive it to get an alignment for like $80 and you’re set.

 

[steve45]

How many miles on it? Did he actually show you what was wrong?

 

[mang213]

I always try to use Moog upper and lower control arms. They are slightly beefier than oem parts. But if you've got a lift then you need to decide whether you're keeping the truck or not. Any lift should be accompanied by legit aftermarket parts

 

[dnt1010]

Hmm so it sounds like I need to buy aftermarket UCAs for my 2009 Tahoe with a 3.5" body lift? My drivers side upper ball joint is currently squealing like a stuck pig. I have only had the truck for a couple of months and the previous owner told me that they had laready replaced the ball joints on it so something is bad wrong here. They look like std elcheapo UCAs arms on there to me. Looking at the zone off-road UCA pics it looks like they are built with a certain amount of drop offset already in them. I guess that keeps the ball joint better aligned when running a lift?

 

[Lancem]

A body lift will not change any suspension angles so it will not be the cause of any problems.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Hmm so it sounds like I need to buy aftermarket UCAs for my 2009 Tahoe with a 3.5" body lift? My drivers side upper ball joint is currently squealing like a stuck pig. I have only had the truck for a couple of months and the previous owner told me that they had laready replaced the ball joints on it so something is bad wrong here. They look like std elcheapo UCAs arms on there to me. Looking at the zone off-road UCA pics it looks like they are built with a certain amount of drop offset already in them. I guess that keeps the ball joint better aligned when running a lift?

Can't say I've heard a ball joint squeal. You sure it's not the hub?

 

[dnt1010]

Can't say I've heard a ball joint squeal. You sure it's not the hub?

I have only had the Tahoe for a couple of months the drivers side wheel bearing was replaced a few thousand miles back with a MOOG. Check out this youtube video.

I am going to jack it up tomorrow remove the wheel and detach the tierod end and rotate by hand to make sure that it is JUST the upper ball joint. Previous owner says they replaced both upper and lower ball joints on drivers side about a year ago. The UCA has MS stamped into the arm so whatever brand that is it does not appear to be a quality part that will last. I might be wrong on the body lift maybe it is a suspension lift I have never owned a lifted truck so really not familiar with the terms. I have a copy of the recipet where the previous owner had it lifted with wheels and tires and it simply states 3.5" lift?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I have only had the Tahoe for a couple of months the drivers side wheel bearing was replaced a few thousand miles back with a MOOG. Check out this youtube video.

I am going to jack it up tomorrow remove the wheel and detach the tierod end and rotate by hand to make sure that it is JUST the upper ball joint. Previous owner says they replaced both upper and lower ball joints on drivers side about a year ago. The UCA has MS stamped into the arm so whatever brand that is it does not appear to be a quality part that will last.

Whoa.

 

[JaysTahoe90]

I have only had the Tahoe for a couple of months the drivers side wheel bearing was replaced a few thousand miles back with a MOOG. Check out this youtube video.

I am going to jack it up tomorrow remove the wheel and detach the tierod end and rotate by hand to make sure that it is JUST the upper ball joint. Previous owner says they replaced both upper and lower ball joints on drivers side about a year ago. The UCA has MS stamped into the arm so whatever brand that is it does not appear to be a quality part that will last. I might be wrong on the body lift maybe it is a suspension lift I have never owned a lifted truck so really not familiar with the terms. I have a copy of the recipet where the previous owner had it lifted with wheels and tires and it simply states 3.5" lift?
View attachment 213856

I had the exact same noise going on before my front axles went out. Luckily I wasn’t driving. But anyways after my guy replaced my front axles, the noise went away

 

[JaysTahoe90]

I had the exact same noise going on before my front axles went out. Luckily I wasn’t driving. But anyways after my guy replaced my front axles, the noise went away

This what it looked like when my front passenger went out

 

[Beto_Z71]

To hop on the question, I recently did a Leveling kit on my 03 Tahoe z71, I know I need control arms because I got camber even after alignment . Suggesting on what parts to get ? I’m trying to keep suv for a while .

 

[dnt1010]

I decided not to buy a special set of control arms for my high mileage 09 with the 3.5" leveling lift kit. On my +205k truck I could not justify the extra cost especially since the drivers side was recently done with stock type parts. I just ordered passenger side Moog UCA and LCA plus a new damper bushing for the steering rack from Rock Auto. Around 200 bones. All pieces are here now so I have a project for this weekend Haha.
Note: After jacking up the truck disconnecting the tierods to isolate each steering part I found to my complete surprise that it was my PASSENGER side ball joints that were making the noise. It is almost impossible to tell with everything all hooked together. Check out this youtube.

Not sure how the rack and pinion is set up on the earlier models but on my 09 with a 3.5" leveling kit lift it puts the tierod at a steep angle and tends to wear the rack damper bushing.

The toe changes as you drive destroying the front tires!!!!!!!!!!
All around I guess the 3.5" leveling lift kit is probably just not a good idea unless you go with a full blown kit that compensates the angles correctly. BIG $$$$$$$$ for an old used Beater ride IMHO. She does look cool though LOL

 

[dnt1010]

Steering damper bushing for a NonHybrid Hydaulis steering rack Gm part #22960484 will not fit. The Hybrid electric steering uses a bushing that is approx 1/2" wider. I am bummed. I cut some .020 brasss shim and used it between the worn bushing and the support bracket to tighten it up. That works pretty good for now but I suspect that the bushing will loosen back up over time and mileage.
Existing steering damper bushing has a factory part number molded into it NR+BR-0-S4532-B7010-A Isearched the internet with no help on that part number. I have a email in to a place that re-manufactures the steering racks to see if they will sell me a bushing only.