OMG!Lol, you need a new rear--not for your rigGet it...?? Lol
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OMG!Lol, you need a new rear--not for your rigGet it...?? Lol
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J/kOMG!
yes, if you have the stock nivomats, but if you change springs at the same time you won't notice a difference.So when I replace my autoride shocks with regular generic shocks I'll lose an inch or 2 ?
yeah, i was just talking about shocks vs springs on some of our trucks. it still wouldn't change alignment. I liked my nivomats because my truck had more load capacity, but it rode best when pulling a trailer and i rarely did that so they had to go.Once again, that's for the rear. Still won't affect alignment which is what we were talking about. But yes, any time either Premium Z55 or Nivomat (forget RPO code) rear shocks are replaced it's recommended to change the springs to Z71 or similar. I've heard from some who say they have changed to regular shocks without changing springs and there's no difference, and some who have had a soft mushy ride after. I like having the self leveling myself, especially with bigger wheels and towing.
my truck had them nivomat shocks. they were shot to hell. i put bilstiens in place of them, dont ya know, my ride height did not change one bit.
now holding extra weight i could see them help out with. but they are still not lifting the truck up one bit.
i added a pair of air bags to help with towing or hauling weight.
Yeah, yours is an LT so maybe it was equipped differently. Mine is a LS with SLE pkg. Technically my truck should be stripped, but I have a tow pkg tow hooks, leather interior, for lights and body side molding including painted bumper cap. Only my mirrors are black. GM did strange things back then.
Yeah, yours is an LT so maybe it was equipped differently. Mine is a LS with SLE pkg. Technically my truck should be stripped, but I have a tow pkg tow hooks, leather interior, fog lights and body side molding including painted bumper cap. Only my mirrors are black. GM did strange things back then.
Go check out "TheSeatShop" they have factory replacement seat covers for a few hundred dollars. As far as the foam, they have the lower foam but not the back. If you feel the metal seat frame near the arm rest (around the bottom of where your rip is) then that's probably normal as mine is the same.Got in my truck this morning and cut my arm. Didn't know what it was but then I saw this.... not happy
Also saw a big oil stain in my car port. Hopefully it's an easy fix
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Any idea where I can get the back leather and foam?
https://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/gm-suv-suspension-decoder.cfm
I agree, changed out my rear springs after removing the nivomat shocks. Moog Z71 spring on the left, Moog standard Tahoe spring center, GM ZW7 spring on the right.
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2009 Tahoe Hybrid 4x4 (recently acquired) It is high mileage so my plan was to change all fluids. I changed the front differential gear oil yesterday. Manual called for SAE 80W-90 Axle Lubricant GM Part No. U.S. 89021671 for the front. I used a Valvoline 80W90 Gear Oil Part No VV831. Now I am second guessing my choice of fluid.......The more that I research the more that I get confused.
I am wanting to change the Rear differential fluid also the owners manual calls for SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant GM Part NO. U.S 89021677 I had picked up some Mobile1 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic LS for the rear. Now I am afraid to use it since it is marked LS (I assume that stands for Limited Slip?) and the G80 axle does not use the LS additive or at least that is what some internet articles say. I never thought it was that big of a deal but maybe it really is? Sigh nothing is ever easy. I may just pony up the cash and order the GM stuff.
Does anyone have the part number for those Moog Z71 springs? I too had the Nivomat shocks on my truck. Back when they still worked fine, they were awesome. The few times that I have towed heavy trailers they helped tremendously. I towed a Chevy Blazer on a car hauler trailer well over 350 miles and it did great. At first, the ass end was squatting very bad, but after driving barely a mile to go get gas, I noticed that the Nivomat shocks were doing their job and helped level the load. When they failed a few years ago, I replaced them with KYB Monomax shocks. And although the ride height or ride quality never changed initially, I am now noticing that I am bottoming out a LOT easier now, so I think I need to replace the springs, which is honestly what I should have done when I replaced the shocks.
Has anyone relocated the battery to the spot over by the coolant reservoir? I need the room to adjust my retrofit but my battery is in the way
you just need a long ass pos cable to loop around the rad support to the red box where pos cable goes now.
i went pos to pos, and ran a new short ground right to the engine head. my plow was never so fast working, alt gauge hardly dropped when in use.
Why not just run a positive from new bat location to starter which is right there on passenger side, remove stock positive from original red box position. The other side of the red box goes down to starter and small 10g goes somewhere, fusebox maybe? i forget, but red box still will get power from lead heading off to starter.