Time for brakes

[Les W]

Hey Guys Just had my brakes checked and I am due for replacement. I usually do my own but getting a little old to be laying around on concrete anymore. I was quoted local to replace with Raybestos reman calipers and turn rotors. They would be the better ones with rust coating on them which is good since I hate rusted looking rotors and calipers. I prefer new rotors not turning and I have never replaced calipers unless there was a problem and if I did they were new ones. Any thoughts ??

 

[Danny3737]

I use E coated rotors and Akebobo brakes and have never been disappointed.

 

[domoarigato]

whats wrong with the calipers on there now? or did they give any reason as to why they need to be replaced?

 

[Les W]

whats wrong with the calipers on there now? or did they give any reason as to why they need to be replaced?

whats wrong with the calipers on there now? or did they give any reason as to why they need to be replaced?

I am going to guess one generic price for one generic job. Cover their bases with caliper pads turn rotors and bleed sytem. No returns or price changes. It only has 83k first brake job. I never trust reman parts since I don’t know how many times. Thks for reply, just checking how many think like I do or am I missing something.

 

[domoarigato]

I am going to guess one generic price for one generic job. Cover their bases with caliper pads turn rotors and bleed sytem. No returns or price changes. It only has 83k first brake job. I never trust reman parts since I don’t know how many times. Thks for reply, just checking how many think like I do or am I missing something.

If your calipers aren't leaking at the seals / locking up / sticking, I would not think you would have to replace them (which is why I asked why they recommended it)

Most brake jobs you can get by with just replacing the rotors or getting them turned, along with fresh pads and fluids.

 

[Les W]

If your calipers aren't leaking at the seals / locking up / sticking, I would not think you would have to replace them (which is why I asked why they recommended it)

Most brake jobs you can get by with just replacing the rotors or getting them turned, along with fresh pads and fluids.

Exactly! That is why I posted since it has been many years since I did a brake job. I wanted to make sure recommendations hadn’t changed. I personally prefer new rotor and pads, flush system as minimum. Guess I will go with my gut on this one.

 

[SuperOldSchool]

I flushed system and used OEM rotors and Wagner Quietstop pads.

The orig pads were still fine for all but 1 of 4 pads, which was worn to nothing- must have been a sticking slide.

If that wasn’t there pads still had a ton of life left. This was at 60k

 

[Nashoba]

I still worry about my brakes, but maybe I shouldn't. Odo just turned over 151,300 at the end of September and I have yet to replace anything about the brakes. Put new tires on it about 2K ago and the tire/brake guy I have used for about 20 years said the pads and rotors still look great. No leaks anywhere and brake fluid still looked OK. Original shocks are still good, too. Had coolant drained and replaced last week and all hoses and belts are still fine, too. I don't know if anything is "extra duty" because the Tahoe is a Hybrid, but is sure seems to be a low maintenance truck in this area.

 

[SuperOldSchool]

Flush the fluid at all 4 for sure. It might look ‘good’ but it’s not after all those miles.

 

[Nashoba]

Yeah, probably.

 

[Nashoba]

OK, took SuperOldSchool's advice and had the Tahoe brakes inspected. Had the old brake fluid removed from reservoir and new fluid added. Then all four corners were drained till the new fluid showed and the reservoir was topped off. Rotors and pads were examined again by my super mechanic and he said the front rotors and pads were in amazingly good condition but the back pads would need to be replaced in 20-30K miles. Though the back rotors looked great, he suggested we might need new ones, maybe when we replaced the pads. Had the throttle body removed and cleaned. Had the differential fluid changed out and although it was discolored somewhat, there was no metal in the bottom of the diff or in the old fluid. Had a new battery connection put on the positive cable and he noticed around the positive terminal there was "swelling and weeping", which was causing the corrosion I had complained about. Took the Tahoe to the dealership today (10/12) who put it in the last week of December, 2017, and they put a brand new one in today for no charge.

$206 charged by my mechanic and N/C by the dealership. Great service both places.

 

[SuperOldSchool]

Good price!

Now you have peace of mind knowing your systems are clean and in good working order. Good for many more happy miles.