Best aftermarket alarm for the most stolen vehicle on the road.

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Vector

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Needless to say the Escalade has had the dubious distinction of being the most stolen vehicle since 2003 for at least a decade.
I live in a city with a high incidence of auto/rim theft, and would like to add an aftermarket alarm that interfaces with the factory alarm to help deter all but the most determined thieves.

My thoughts are to go with a Viper alarm, as I have had good luck with them in the past. I will add a GPS based module from Omega to whatever alarm I put in;

http://www.omegagps.com/products.html

Along with a perimeter module to help keep the rims from being stolen;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DEI-508D-D...112663700814?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

My question is what alarms do you'll have(and accessories), and do you have your alarm run of the factory key fob, or the alarms?

TIA
 

Doubeleive

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viper with cellular module, gps module, tilt sensor, glass sensor, it comes with a impact sensor already, there are always going to be ways to bypass an alarm even something as simple as cutting the ground or power by reaching from under the truck or inside from wheel well, you can cut the hood pin harness right in front of the grill and pop the hood and do what you need to, If I really wanted to get into my truck without triggering the alarm I could without a lot of difficulty.
 

swathdiver

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Big dogs and gun stickers. Nobody gets onto our property without the hounds knowing and alerting us. Course, that means little sitting in a shopping center parking lot! I've one of those blue parking tags so I reckon that helps to deter thieves, being right up front in the parking lots. I am thinking of adding the tilt sensor from GM though.
 

LISS1975

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in the car already there is a part of the incorporated security functions. in it there is a perimeter security for opening doors and hood, there is a volume sensor and there is a sound siren. In addition, it is possible to put a block with a built-in immobilizer, impact and movement sensor with built-in gps, cdma and gsm which can be connected via can bus. this will allow the unit to receive information from the factory sensors of the car, as well as activate the alarm system (sound signal). this unit will track its own by a digital tag and it can be connected to a mobile phone or to the monitoring company's console which in case of alarm will be sent to the police. since now there are devices with jamming the gps signal and cellular communication, it makes sense to put an additional search unit that will wake up 1-2 per day and send the coordinates of the car to the owner. because the rest of the time he will sleep, find it a special device will be very difficult and it will be a surprise for the intruders.
 
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Vector

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viper with cellular module, gps module, tilt sensor, glass sensor, it comes with a impact sensor already, there are always going to be ways to bypass an alarm even something as simple as cutting the ground or power by reaching from under the truck or inside from wheel well, you can cut the hood pin harness right in front of the grill and pop the hood and do what you need to, If I really wanted to get into my truck without triggering the alarm I could without a lot of difficulty.

I agree with you on the fact it can be stolen by a determined/knowledgeable thief. Heck someone can just two it away, and unless you have a GPS tracker, they can strip it in the comfortThe perimeter system will deter most as they will set off the alarm prior to being able to stay near the truck long enough.
I though I read where the battery has some type of protection to where it is still connected to the factory alarm even if the main cable is cut?

I like the idea of a cellular module, but aren't those subscription based where you pay every month?

`
 

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I agree with you on the fact it can be stolen by a determined/knowledgeable thief. Heck someone can just two it away, and unless you have a GPS tracker, they can strip it in the comfortThe perimeter system will deter most as they will set off the alarm prior to being able to stay near the truck long enough.
I though I read where the battery has some type of protection to where it is still connected to the factory alarm even if the main cable is cut?

I like the idea of a cellular module, but aren't those subscription based where you pay every month?

`
the smartstart cellular service is a annual contract it's not bad less than $150 (I think) or it's close to that anyway a simple google search will say for sure, the factory alarm is always still connected and working unless you specifically have it disabled which would probably be a major pain to do. disconnecting the power would just prevent the alarm/horn from sounding is all.
 

08HoeCD

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At the end of the day, I'd drive a less desirable vehicle, garage it or relocate. All the other stuff is noise and won't stop a determined thief.
 
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Vector

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in the car already there is a part of the incorporated security functions. in it there is a perimeter security for opening doors and hood, there is a volume sensor and there is a sound siren. In addition, it is possible to put a block with a built-in immobilizer, impact and movement sensor with built-in gps, cdma and gsm which can be connected via can bus. this will allow the unit to receive information from the factory sensors of the car, as well as activate the alarm system (sound signal). this unit will track its own by a digital tag and it can be connected to a mobile phone or to the monitoring company's console which in case of alarm will be sent to the police. since now there are devices with jamming the gps signal and cellular communication, it makes sense to put an additional search unit that will wake up 1-2 per day and send the coordinates of the car to the owner. because the rest of the time he will sleep, find it a special device will be very difficult and it will be a surprise for the intruders.

You do not mean perimeter security like this do you?




`
 

exninja

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^Those proximity detectors are so annoying. If you want to be THAT guy, by all means.

IMHO, alarms are useless. I had an Integra, which was also on the top of those lists. The only reason I still had my car at the end was the transponder car key (previous years of the car didn't have that so they were much easier to steal). It was broken into three times, alarm didn't help any of those times.

First time they clipped the alarm power and destroyed the steering column trying to start it.
Second they just took stuff inside.
Third they actually took the car down the street. I have no idea how they moved it, but I think they used a car because the rear bumper had paint missing.
I didn't hear the alarm any of those times, and I had an alarm on the key fob for the last two.
 

Tozan

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Add and extra phone to your family plan with tracking... Wire the charger into the harness and put the phone into the compartment with the spare tire tools. If it gets stolen track the cell phone.
 
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Vector

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^Those proximity detectors are so annoying. If you want to be THAT guy, by all means.

I don't want to have the voice module, just the chirp warning to stay away. However if they stay within the perimeter for too long it will set off the alarm prior to them being able to cut the power.
 
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Vector

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Add and extra phone to your family plan with tracking... Wire the charger into the harness and put the phone into the compartment with the spare tire tools. If it gets stolen track the cell phone.

That is a novel idea worth considering. Definitely outside of the box thinking.
 

exninja

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I don't want to have the voice module, just the chirp warning to stay away. However if they stay within the perimeter for too long it will set off the alarm prior to them being able to cut the power.

The chirp is all I've encountered. Pass by the car in the parking lot, *chirp*. Then eye roll from me. Good thing I haven't loaded my kiddo into my car while next to a car with a proximity detector yet. Haven't even thought about what I'd do in that situation...
 
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Vector

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The chirp is all I've encountered. Pass by the car in the parking lot, *chirp*. Then eye roll from me. Good thing I haven't loaded my kiddo into my car while next to a car with a proximity detector yet. Haven't even thought about what I'd do in that situation...

Well hopefully you'd be civil and lawful despite the potential scare it might put into your kid.
It can be temporarily disabled in certain situations out in a public area where many people are walking around.

Keep in mind that some of us live in areas where many crooks/punks (not just a top car thief) will try to steal your vehicle whether it be for the rims, a joy ride, or to strip it.
Also I am forced to leave a firearm inside on occasion, so I'd like as much of a deterrent as possible to prevent it from falling into the wrong hands. With a perimeter violation and/or alarm notification, it will also give me a quicker ability to get back before something happens.
Other than annoying some people (that is why I do not want the voice module, as you will get people starting to argue or curse back at the voice), it gives notice to the potential miscreant as well as the surrounding people that something is occurring.
Lastly, a thief after the rims, can lift the car carefully and put it on blocks without setting off the shock/tilt sensor, then take the rims off. That wont happen with a proximity sensor.

`
 

AngelXL

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Best car Alarm you can have is A KILL SWITCH. Take it from a guy thats been installing seens my teenage years.
I had a Supra, 4runner, 1.8s and they all had a Gas Kill switch and a good hood lock.
Old school! The Supra and 4 Runner were tried to be taken and Nada.
Alarms are just for noise to protect your radio or inside items.
One of my buddies. They took his RX7
and left the Alarm in the driveway for him...lol
 

Doubeleive

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^Those proximity detectors are so annoying. If you want to be THAT guy, by all means.

IMHO, alarms are useless. I had an Integra, which was also on the top of those lists. The only reason I still had my car at the end was the transponder car key (previous years of the car didn't have that so they were much easier to steal). It was broken into three times, alarm didn't help any of those times.

First time they clipped the alarm power and destroyed the steering column trying to start it.
Second they just took stuff inside.
Third they actually took the car down the street. I have no idea how they moved it, but I think they used a car because the rear bumper had paint missing.
I didn't hear the alarm any of those times, and I had an alarm on the key fob for the last two.
I take it that was a old one way system? and wasn't a 2 way alarm and didn't have cellular signaling? if you even bump my door I am going to get a alarm text on my phone (anywhere worldwide) and alarm on the fob up to a mile away.
 
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Vector

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Best car Alarm you can have is A KILL SWITCH. Take it from a guy thats been installing seens my teenage years.
I had a Supra, 4runner, 1.8s and they all had a Gas Kill switch and a good hood lock.
Old school! The Supra and 4 Runner were tried to be taken and Nada.
Alarms are just for noise to protect your radio or inside items.
One of my buddies. They took his RX7
and left the Alarm in the driveway for him...lol

Well that is why I started this thread, so as to not only get the latest greatest info regarding Escalades (and interfacing with the factory theft deterrent system), but to be reminded about the old school stuff. I only had a gas cut off module on one car, but knew it would do the trick if ever engaged. However that was in the days of one fuel line going from the pump to the carb. I assume they have one for modern day fuel injection. Heck I know they have those systems that slow and eventually kill the fuel and/or power like you see on those bait cars to catch car thieves.

The Omega system I will likely add not only can track like Onstar does, but can kill the power to the starter once the vehicle is turned off, so as to not start again. Of course if they have taken it to a chop shop by then your only hope is to report to the police where it's present location is.

BTW - What "good hood lock" do you install?

`
 

AngelXL

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All you have to do is find the fuel pump and find the ground wire. Throw a switch in between. My supra was a fuel injection and some of the newer Hondas. Those Vtech engines are like hot cakes for thiefs.
The hood lock was the Defender I think.
It had like a Knight Armor logo.
 

ScottyBoy

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Like mentioned above, the alarm will only do so much. But there's lots of other things you can do or add to help prevent theft. First off, like others mentioned, make sure that the starter kill relay is definitely hooked up on the alarm. This will prevent the truck from starting if the alarm is armed. Some installers will get lazy and not hook it up if the vehicle already has a factory anti-theft system or "chip key". You can also add a manual kill switch wired to the ignition or fuel pump.
The next big thing that you want to do is prevent a thief from cutting your battery. Look under the truck and make sure that the battery cable are not easily accessible from under the truck. If they are, then consider something to block it cover the cables. Maybe some like a skid plate or similar, even thick plastic screwed in place to cover that area, whatever works.
Then move on to the hood latch. You need to prevent the hood from being easily opened. Check to make sure that it can NOT be opened from under the truck or through the grill. Sometimes a thief can pop the hood right through the grill with a long screwdriver if he knows what he is doing. Once you make sure that the hood latch is not easily bypassed from outside the truck, then you can also go a step further and put some type of hood lock on it. This will prevent the type of crook who will smash the window and reach in a pop the hood really quick. Then in a matter of seconds he can have the battery cable snipped. There are several companies that sell cable type hood lock that is locked through a sheathed cable that you mount under the dash and run to the hood latch.
Or else you can go the cheap and reliable way and get a short legnth of chain and a padlock. Bolt a piece of chain to the hood near the latch, and a piece on the radiator support, and then lock them together, have them just long enough to pop the hood and reach in to unlock the padlock.
 

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