2016 Suburban LT Fog Lamps install with OEM switch

[Usdmskyline20]

Can anyone confirm what bulb pattern comes with the Spyder fog light kit ?

I finally had my fogs installed yesterday by a friend of mine who has a local stereo shop. Looking to put HIDs or LEDS in from Vanquish but need the pattern. Any info is appreciated.


2011 Dodge Ram 1500 Big Horn
2017 Chevy Tahoe LT
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Z71Jack]

Can anyone confirm what bulb pattern comes with the Spyder fog light kit ?

I finally had my fogs installed yesterday by a friend of mine who has a local stereo shop. Looking to put HIDs or LEDS in from Vanquish but need the pattern. Any info is appreciated.


2011 Dodge Ram 1500 Big Horn
2017 Chevy Tahoe LT
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm wondering the exact same thing...what do you think of the kit so far?

 

[Hutch08]

vanquish HID low beam, LED high beam and LED fog light kit.

Used there supplied Spyder light housings and wired to turn on whenever low beams are on.

Sorry no pics of fogs on by themselves. They do a decent job of lighting up the ditches.

 

[bezimmer]

Thanks, I downloaded the schematics and looked them over, here are some notes, be advised, all this refers to a 2016 vehicle/schematic:

Front Fog Lamps (RPO T3U) and Rear Fog Lamps (RPO T79)
most info is shown on page 41, it is comprised of three circuits:
Circuit 192 - from Headlamp switch to BCM
Circuit 1317 - is from the BCM to control Fog Relay KR46
Circuit 2234 - +12v output to Fog Light bulbs.


RPO Description
T3U LAMP FRT FOG-FRT FOG
T79 LAMP-FOG, RR (T79 is the ReaR fog lamps, which are only European? canadian?)

here are the page numbers to find the connector picture/description/schematic:

X50A Fuse Block - Underhood X1 page 430
Pin Size Color Circuit Function Terminal Type ID Option
J3 0.5 BN/VT 2234 Front Fog Lamp Supply Voltage III T3U

X50A Fuse Block - Underhood X3 page 434
Pin Size Color Circuit Function Terminal Type ID Option
L5 0.5 BN/WH 1317 Fog Lamp Relay Control I T3U

K9 Body Control Module X1 page 727
Pin Size Color Circuit Function Terminal Type ID Option
4 0.5 RD/BN 2240 Battery Positive Voltage
15 0.35 D-BU/GY 192 Front Fog Lamp Switch Signal T3U
22 0.35 L-GN/GY 13 Headlamp Switch Park Lamp Signal

K9 Body Control Module X5 page 735
Pin Size Color Circuit Function Terminal Type ID Option
10 0.5 BN/WH BN 1317 Fog Lamp Relay Control T3U

S30 Headlamp Switch page 1001
Pin Size Color Circuit Function Terminal Type ID Option
10 0.35 D-BU/GY 192 Front Fog Lamp Switch Signal I T3U

X100 Forward Lamp Harness to Front Bumper Harness (X88 or Z88) page 1122
Pin Size Color Circuit Function Terminal Type ID Option
3 0.5 BN/VT 2234 Front Fog Lamp Supply T3U

View attachment 72972

View attachment 72973

Guys, great thread. I've got a '17 LT and am amassing parts and research info to do this installation. Couple of questions:

- Does anyone know precisely where the factory front fog lamp relay (KR46 in the schematics) is located in the underhood fuse block (schematics all say it's in there)? Could it be one of the upfit relays that's dedicated to the T3U option? Yeah, I looked in my Owner's manual, chatted online with GM, and called 4 Chevy, GMC and Cadillac dealers. The location of this relay must be some huge state secret - even looking at OMs from '15 on, there's no mention of it and no one I've talked to can answer the question.

- When bypassing the BCM, using the 611T and BYO relay, do the fog lights remain on when high beams are on? Pretty sure that would fail inspection in VA (and probably other states). If they do stay on, is there a way to provide a trigger when EITHER the parking lights or low beams are on but goes off when high beams come on or are flashed?

- Looking at the top of the X50A underhood fuse block, it appears the fog lamps fuse (94) is pinned on my '17. Assuming there's connectivity from the (ghost) relay to the fuse pins, did anyone consider using a fuse tap to start the 12+ circuit to the lamps? I'm thinking if I can find the factory front fog lamp relay, adding a fuse tap to the F94UA fuse location might solve being able to use the BCM, once programmed by the dealer (who's willing to do that, BTW).
​

Also, here's why LSs and LTs without Premium packages aren't capable of having fog lights... There is a separate bumper harness - part #23181386 - that feeds the collision sensors and cameras on the front bumper, and as it turns out, the fog lights. It's fed through the X100 connector up front on the passenger side. If you wanted to stay as close to factory as possible/practical, it wouldn't necessarily mean rewiring the entire engine compartment; it would require that harness (street price ~$70) and getting juice to it from the fuse block. Can't believe they put the fog light terminals/wiring on that harness when the front light harness could have carried them. Thanks, GM...

​

Many thanks to all who've contributed here - Especially nilleo for the incredible detail and effort that went into his initial and subsequent posts.

 

[Ruikee]

- When bypassing the BCM, using the 611T and BYO relay, do the fog lights remain on when high beams are on? Pretty sure that would fail inspection in VA (and probably other states). If they do stay on, is there a way to provide a trigger when EITHER the parking lights or low beams are on but goes off when high beams come on or are flashed?

​

I live in VA, and an option would be to disconnect the fogs b4 inspection, and if asked, just for show. Did this with HIDs that wouldnt pass. Not optimum, but an option....​

 

[bezimmer]

I live in VA, and an option would be to disconnect the fogs b4 inspection, and if asked, just for show. Did this with HIDs that wouldnt pass. Not optimum, but an option....​

Thanks, Ruikee. Thought about that but there are two potential issues. As you may know in VA if you have lights - of whatever type - on a vehicle, they must work. So disabling them might also fail. Second is, with the OEM switch bypassing the BCM, I don't believe there's an idiot light for "fog lamps on." So, if you forget they're on and a cop sees you with high beams and fogs, you're likely to get pulled over (at least most communities around where I live).

As an aside, I checked a "Premium" model Suburban with factory fog lights at the dealer today, thinking the relay would be stuck in one of the "upfit" option slots. Its underhood fuse block was identical, absolutely identical to mine. So if there's a foglight relay it's either somewhere else or handled by some solid state device(??) that I've never heard of. Very frustrating that no one can answer where this relay is.

Anyway, thanks for the reply. BZ

 

[Usdmskyline20]

I'm wondering the exact same thing...what do you think of the kit so far?

Sorry for the late reply. Vanquish HID kit is amazing. I like the fogs. I have the vanquish led kit just no time to install it yet. No idea what the exact bulb pattern is.


2011 Dodge Ram 1500 Big Horn
2017 Chevy Tahoe LT
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bezimmer]

Guys, great thread. I've got a '17 LT and am amassing parts and research info to do this installation. Couple of questions:

- Does anyone know precisely where the factory front fog lamp relay (KR46 in the schematics) is located in the underhood fuse block (schematics all say it's in there)? Could it be one of the upfit relays that's dedicated to the T3U option? Yeah, I looked in my Owner's manual, chatted online with GM, and called 4 Chevy, GMC and Cadillac dealers. The location of this relay must be some huge state secret - even looking at OMs from '15 on, there's no mention of it and no one I've talked to can answer the question.

- When bypassing the BCM, using the 611T and BYO relay, do the fog lights remain on when high beams are on? Pretty sure that would fail inspection in VA (and probably other states). If they do stay on, is there a way to provide a trigger when EITHER the parking lights or low beams are on but goes off when high beams come on or are flashed?

- Looking at the top of the X50A underhood fuse block, it appears the fog lamps fuse (94) is pinned on my '17. Assuming there's connectivity from the (ghost) relay to the fuse pins, did anyone consider using a fuse tap to start the 12+ circuit to the lamps? I'm thinking if I can find the factory front fog lamp relay, adding a fuse tap to the F94UA fuse location might solve being able to use the BCM, once programmed by the dealer (who's willing to do that, BTW).
​

Also, here's why LSs and LTs without Premium packages aren't capable of having fog lights... There is a separate bumper harness - part #23181386 - that feeds the collision sensors and cameras on the front bumper, and as it turns out, the fog lights. It's fed through the X100 connector up front on the passenger side. If you wanted to stay as close to factory as possible/practical, it wouldn't necessarily mean rewiring the entire engine compartment; it would require that harness (street price ~$70) and getting juice to it from the fuse block. Can't believe they put the fog light terminals/wiring on that harness when the front light harness could have carried them. Thanks, GM...

​

Many thanks to all who've contributed here - Especially nilleo for the incredible detail and effort that went into his initial and subsequent posts.

So here's an update. I haven't done my install yet, but I will take pictures and post. This solution seems incredibly easy compared to previous ones because it doesn't involve the 611T MOSFET latching relay. A little background (some of this will be repeats of previous posts - purpose is to outline the new procedure stuff in one place):

• Install OEM switch as was previously described.
• When the momentary fog light switch is pressed, the OEM switch fires a ground signal to the Body Control Module (BCM) which in turn sends ground to the relay to turn on the fog lights. We need to tap that circuit (1317 in the schematics) to grab the ground pulse. The most easily accessible place to grab this connection is found by opening up your fuse block and finding connector X3. In position L5, you will find and follow the brown wire to a bundle outside the fuse block. This will serve as the source for firing a BYO (bring your own) relay.
• Splice a tap in this brown wire and connect it to pin 86 on a general purpose BYO relay (at least 20A rating).
• Find a 12V+ power supply and add an inline 15A fuse.
• Connect fused power to pins 30 and 85 on the relay.
• Assuming your lights are already in place and wire has been run to the fuse block area, connect lights to pin 87 on the relay.
• Have your dealer reprogram your BCM for "Equipped with fog lights (Option T3U)". Mine was more than happy to work with me on this.
• You're done. I believe this will also activate the idiot light on the DIC. And it will behave legally for places where highs and fogs cannot be on at the same time.

There is another option that I'm toying around with. Since my fuse block was identical to the Premium model on my dealer's lot, I'm assuming that it already has relay KR46 (fog lamps relay in circuit 2234). As nilleo pointed out, the fog lamps fuse is already installed in position 94 even on vehicles without them, so I think it's safe to assume the relay is there too (somewhere - I still don't have an answer where it's physically located - one guy I talked to thought it might be soldered to the X50A Underhood Fuse Block somewhere. Dunno).

Anyway, in his first post, nilleo points out that fuse 94 (position J3 in connector X1) isn't pinned - but that's not the whole story. The fuse block appears to be set up for fog lights, just not the X1 connector below. That's because a terminated lead is missing that would run the 12V+ power to the fog lights from the X1 connector. My dealer is looking for that part. It's not a catalog part - kept in what they call their Electric Service Trays - think trays of miscellaneous consumables that mechanics don't need to go to the parts desk for. The part number for the terminated lead is 19301752 and I believe if my dealer can locate that terminated lead, I'll pop it into X1/J3, wire that to the fog lights, and I won't even have to mess with a BYO relay! Almost all factory!

Anyway this is all theory until I get it wired up this week, hopefully, if I can find the time. I love the second option because everything can be OEM except for the wiring from the fuse block to the lamps. Love it. I'll upload some excerpts from the schematics.

 

[bezimmer]

Here's the wiring diagram for the BYO relay option.

 

[bezimmer]

Here's the OEM wiring diagram (confirmed it's the same for 2015-2018):

 

[bezimmer]

Here are the X1 & X3 connectors in the Underhood fuse block:

 

[bezimmer]

Here are the pin-out diagrams for X1 and X3 - note that the connectors are identical.

 

[bezimmer]

And finally (for now), here's the underside of the fuse block top (fuses and relays are found on the other side of this half of the fuse block) showing where X1-J3 resides. Connectors with terminated leads form the bottom of the fuse block and are what this plugs into. The significance of this is that I believe that if there were different fuse blocks for vehicles without fog lamps, this J3 pin wouldn't be there. Nor would the fuse. That also might mean while the fuse blocks are all identical, it's just the wiring harnesses that aren't. Makes sense, to me anyway.

 

[russjameson]

Need help.

Hey there, I have had this page saved for quite sometime to do this on my wife's Suburban. I am pretty mechanically and electronically inclined.....untill 2015 I guess.

Here are the problems I have had so far.
I didn't have a wire for pin 6 on my switch harness. I had one in 10 (rear fogs) but it didn't work. I pulled it out of the connector and put it in 6. It works fine giving the signal to 611T.
My problem lies with the blue wire in X5 pin 22.
When I attach the yellow and black wires to it I have a constant ground to the Brown output wire of the 611T. Even when the lights are off and on Auto. When the switch is in parking lights and on headlights the switch works fine.

But when I turn the car off the fog lights don't ever go off.
For some reason the blue wire isn't switching off. When I ground the yellow and black wire the lights go on and off just fine. Im just looking for control from the parking lights.

I have looked at the diagrams online and have no clue where to tap so the parkinglights control the 611T.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[russjameson]

Anybody?
I'd like to get them working before she goes for her state inspection.

Thanks

 

[Chuck13]

Hey all,

I wasn't able to find many (or any) cases where aftermarket fog lamps were added to a 2015+ Suburban /Tahoe (or similar generation) with the OEM switch, so I created an account here to share for anyone else that's interested.

Let's get to it…

Tools you'll need:
7mm socket driver
10mm socket driver
T15 torx driver

Suggested tools:
Clip removal tool
Electrical tape
Wire ties

Parts used:
Spyder FL-CTAH15-C fog lamp kit
GM headlamp switch w/fog part# 22752195
DEI 611T

Preface
I was hoping to use as much factory wiring for this installation as possible to keep everything as “factory” as possible, but mostly to avoid doing more work than I had to . I dug into some schematics to see what the factory wiring was like and then proceeded to look for all the wires in the truck before getting dirty.

The good news – the factory fog lamp fuse was installed in the fusebox from the factory, woohoo. Also, the wire from the headlamp switch harness to the BCM was present at the headlight switch and at the BCM. The wire from the BCM to the underhood fuse box for the OE fog lamp relay trigger was also present at both the BCM and the underhood fuse box, excellent!

The bad news – the wires that are supposed to go from the fusebox to the factory fog lamps weren't in the wire bundle going to the front grille where they're supposed to be. I investigated further and found that the wire isn't even pinned in at the fusebox, way to cheap out GM!

Here's where the wire should go, notice how pins are populated to the left and right of the pin we need, but not where we want one

This setback meant that I would have to run my own wiring from the aftermarket fog lamps to the battery, and a relay to to control it all. I'll still be using the factory trigger wire for the factory fog lamp relay and just use that to trigger my relay.

Reverse engineering
The factory front fog lamp circuit works as follows – when you press and release the fog lamp request button at the headlamp switch, this sends a ground pulse to the BCM. The BCM interprets this pulse as a request to turn the fog lamps on, and if the headlamps are on, it sends a ground signal to the underhood fusebox to the fog lamp relay. When the fog lamp relay clicks on, it sends power to the front fog lamps and there ya have it.

Since I don't have access to a programming tool to enable the fog lamps feature on the BCM, it didn't do anything when I installed the new switch, as expected. No matter, I brought the 611T into the picture to replace the BCM's role in this party. So the 611T will take the momentary pulse from the fog lamp switch and control a latching on/off ground output that I will feed into the factory fog lamp relay wiring. Since the factory fog lamp relay wiring is missing at the fusebox and I'll be using my own relay, I'm pretty much just hijacking this wire as a way to get through the firewall without running any new wiring.

611T wiring
Black – to BCM brown connector, Blue - pin 22
Green – to headlamp switch, Blue/Gray – pin 6
Red – to BCM brown connector, Red/White – pin 4
Yellow – to BCM brown connector, Blue – pin 22
Brown – to BCM brown connector, Brown – pin 10

611T wiring explained
The module is “active” when the Black wire is at ground and the Red wire is at 12V+. I wired it up so that it only has ground when the parking lamps are active so that the fog lamps can only come on when the parking lamps are on, and turn off when the parking lamps turn off. The Green wire receives the momentary pulse from the headlamp switch to control the MOSFET that the Yellow and Brown wires go to. The Yellow wire is looped over to the Black wire so that it only has a ground input when the parking lamps are on as well. Lastly the Brown wire is what will trigger the aftermarket fog lamp relay on/off witch each press of the fog lamp switch when the parking lamps are on.

Interior Disassembly
Remove the fuse panel lid on the left side of the dashboard – it's the large plastic panel covering the interior fuses on the left dash.
With that door off, remove two T15 torx screws from the side of the lower dash panel as shown.

Next, remove another two T15 torx screws holding the lower dash panel from underneath, they should be easily visible.

Optional – use a small flathead screwdriver to unclip the hood release latch and separate it from the panel. You don't have to do this, but doing so will let you completely set that panel aside once you unclip it from the rest of the dash assembly.

You should now be able to unclip the lower dash panel. There are about 3-4 clips holding it on now, just get a good grip and pull towards the rear of the truck. These clips can be stubburn.

Once you take off that lower dash panel, you should now see two 7mm bolts holding the switch panel in place. Take those bolts off and pull that panel off – again, pull toward the rear. There are maybe two or so clips on this one. Unplug the harnesses and swap out your switch then set the whole thing aside.

The switch is held on with these clips...

Exterior Disassembly
Start the engine and turn the wheels all the way to one side.
Remove the 7mm bolts securing the felt wheel-well cover on the front bumper.

Get under the bumper and remove two 10mm bolts and a clip holding the felt cover on from each side of the truck.

Reach in and remove four 10mm bolts holding on the fog lamp blanks. (the left-most screw is out of view in the image below due to the angle)

Put the new fog lamps on, turn your wiring up through the fender and into the hood area, and put it all back together if you'd like. Don't forget to secure the wiring with a few wire ties to keep everything tidy.

Wiring

Headlamp switch
Fog lamp request wire (Blue/Gray)

BCM
X5 connector with parking lamp (Blue) and fog lamp (Brown) relay activation wires and a decent constant 12V+ source (Red/White) for the 611T note: the fog lamp relay wire may be Brown or Brown/White, take note of which color it is for you!

Underhood
Trigger wire for your fog lamp relay, should be the same color as you found inside at the BCM

Just in case it's not exactly clear from the previous picture where that harness is, here's a more zoomed out shot...

Good 12V+ source for your fog lamp relay

Appendix
For your reference, here's a rough block schematic of some of the circuits discussed here.

And lastly the final product

All lamps on

Parking lamps and fog lamps only

Fog lamps off

Do you still remember the setting on your 611T? Thanks!

 

[russjameson]

Does anyone check this anymore?

What if I used the 611T to give me a negative for the fogs, using a constant ground as a input for the 611T when the Foglight switch is on, and I tap into the positive lead going to the parkinglights and use that as the positive for the fogs. That way the fogs can only come on when the parkinglights are on

 

[Rdr854]

Need help.

Hey there, I have had this page saved for quite sometime to do this on my wife's Suburban. I am pretty mechanically and electronically inclined.....untill 2015 I guess.

Here are the problems I have had so far.
I didn't have a wire for pin 6 on my switch harness. I had one in 10 (rear fogs) but it didn't work. I pulled it out of the connector and put it in 6. It works fine giving the signal to 611T.
My problem lies with the blue wire in X5 pin 22.
When I attach the yellow and black wires to it I have a constant ground to the Brown output wire of the 611T. Even when the lights are off and on Auto. When the switch is in parking lights and on headlights the switch works fine.

But when I turn the car off the fog lights don't ever go off.
For some reason the blue wire isn't switching off. When I ground the yellow and black wire the lights go on and off just fine. Im just looking for control from the parking lights.

I have looked at the diagrams online and have no clue where to tap so the parkinglights control the 611T.

Thanks in advance for your help.

We have rear fog lamp capabilities? How so?

 

[Jessie Sanchez]

Hey all,

I wasn't able to find many (or any) cases where aftermarket fog lamps were added to a 2015+ Suburban /Tahoe (or similar generation) with the OEM switch, so I created an account here to share for anyone else that's interested.

Let's get to it…

Tools you'll need:
7mm socket driver
10mm socket driver
T15 torx driver

Suggested tools:
Clip removal tool
Electrical tape
Wire ties

Parts used:
Spyder FL-CTAH15-C fog lamp kit
GM headlamp switch w/fog part# 22752195
DEI 611T

Preface
I was hoping to use as much factory wiring for this installation as possible to keep everything as “factory” as possible, but mostly to avoid doing more work than I had to . I dug into some schematics to see what the factory wiring was like and then proceeded to look for all the wires in the truck before getting dirty.

The good news – the factory fog lamp fuse was installed in the fusebox from the factory, woohoo. Also, the wire from the headlamp switch harness to the BCM was present at the headlight switch and at the BCM. The wire from the BCM to the underhood fuse box for the OE fog lamp relay trigger was also present at both the BCM and the underhood fuse box, excellent!

The bad news – the wires that are supposed to go from the fusebox to the factory fog lamps weren't in the wire bundle going to the front grille where they're supposed to be. I investigated further and found that the wire isn't even pinned in at the fusebox, way to cheap out GM!

Here's where the wire should go, notice how pins are populated to the left and right of the pin we need, but not where we want one

This setback meant that I would have to run my own wiring from the aftermarket fog lamps to the battery, and a relay to to control it all. I'll still be using the factory trigger wire for the factory fog lamp relay and just use that to trigger my relay.

Reverse engineering
The factory front fog lamp circuit works as follows – when you press and release the fog lamp request button at the headlamp switch, this sends a ground pulse to the BCM. The BCM interprets this pulse as a request to turn the fog lamps on, and if the headlamps are on, it sends a ground signal to the underhood fusebox to the fog lamp relay. When the fog lamp relay clicks on, it sends power to the front fog lamps and there ya have it.

Since I don't have access to a programming tool to enable the fog lamps feature on the BCM, it didn't do anything when I installed the new switch, as expected. No matter, I brought the 611T into the picture to replace the BCM's role in this party. So the 611T will take the momentary pulse from the fog lamp switch and control a latching on/off ground output that I will feed into the factory fog lamp relay wiring. Since the factory fog lamp relay wiring is missing at the fusebox and I'll be using my own relay, I'm pretty much just hijacking this wire as a way to get through the firewall without running any new wiring.

611T wiring
Black – to BCM brown connector, Blue - pin 22
Green – to headlamp switch, Blue/Gray – pin 6
Red – to BCM brown connector, Red/White – pin 4
Yellow – to BCM brown connector, Blue – pin 22
Brown – to BCM brown connector, Brown – pin 10

611T wiring explained
The module is “active” when the Black wire is at ground and the Red wire is at 12V+. I wired it up so that it only has ground when the parking lamps are active so that the fog lamps can only come on when the parking lamps are on, and turn off when the parking lamps turn off. The Green wire receives the momentary pulse from the headlamp switch to control the MOSFET that the Yellow and Brown wires go to. The Yellow wire is looped over to the Black wire so that it only has a ground input when the parking lamps are on as well. Lastly the Brown wire is what will trigger the aftermarket fog lamp relay on/off witch each press of the fog lamp switch when the parking lamps are on.

Interior Disassembly
Remove the fuse panel lid on the left side of the dashboard – it's the large plastic panel covering the interior fuses on the left dash.
With that door off, remove two T15 torx screws from the side of the lower dash panel as shown.

Next, remove another two T15 torx screws holding the lower dash panel from underneath, they should be easily visible.

Optional – use a small flathead screwdriver to unclip the hood release latch and separate it from the panel. You don't have to do this, but doing so will let you completely set that panel aside once you unclip it from the rest of the dash assembly.

You should now be able to unclip the lower dash panel. There are about 3-4 clips holding it on now, just get a good grip and pull towards the rear of the truck. These clips can be stubburn.

Once you take off that lower dash panel, you should now see two 7mm bolts holding the switch panel in place. Take those bolts off and pull that panel off – again, pull toward the rear. There are maybe two or so clips on this one. Unplug the harnesses and swap out your switch then set the whole thing aside.

The switch is held on with these clips...

Exterior Disassembly
Start the engine and turn the wheels all the way to one side.
Remove the 7mm bolts securing the felt wheel-well cover on the front bumper.

Get under the bumper and remove two 10mm bolts and a clip holding the felt cover on from each side of the truck.

Reach in and remove four 10mm bolts holding on the fog lamp blanks. (the left-most screw is out of view in the image below due to the angle)

Put the new fog lamps on, turn your wiring up through the fender and into the hood area, and put it all back together if you'd like. Don't forget to secure the wiring with a few wire ties to keep everything tidy.

Wiring

Headlamp switch
Fog lamp request wire (Blue/Gray)

BCM
X5 connector with parking lamp (Blue) and fog lamp (Brown) relay activation wires and a decent constant 12V+ source (Red/White) for the 611T note: the fog lamp relay wire may be Brown or Brown/White, take note of which color it is for you!

Underhood
Trigger wire for your fog lamp relay, should be the same color as you found inside at the BCM

Just in case it's not exactly clear from the previous picture where that harness is, here's a more zoomed out shot...

Good 12V+ source for your fog lamp relay

Appendix
For your reference, here's a rough block schematic of some of the circuits discussed here.

And lastly the final product

All lamps on

Parking lamps and fog lamps only

Fog lamps off

 

[Jessie Sanchez]

Help needed! I wired up all as I read but fog lights turn on and stay on even when vehicle is off. I have 3 wires from relay that came with fog lights...white I ran to trigger brown wire underhood...red was connected to red wire run in harness with brown trigger wire...black to chassis ground...as soon as I grounded black wire, lights immediately turned on and would not go off until ground was disconnected.