Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"

[Rocket Man]

Whatever you go with make sure you measure the plunge depth of the converter to make sure its fully seated on the pump and once bolted up measure the spacing of the converter pads to the plate. Getting the spacing right will keep you from busting the pump in the converter (not fully seated on trans) and pulling the converter off the pump (too much spacing from pads to plate.).

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I hope I can figure out what you mean when I start working on it. This will be my first time installing an automatic trans. I also just went ahead and ordered a new TruCool Max in case I can't get the other one flushed good. No sense taking any chances and it's only $100 or so. If I don't need it I'll send it back.

 

[sumo]

The performa build should come me with a cooler if i Remember correctly taking to them.

 

[Rocket Man]

The performa build should come me with a cooler if i Remember correctly taking to them.

I see that now, it's in the FAQs but they don't say which one.

 

[bottomline2000]

I decided on the TCI flexplate 399753. It's a bit more expensive but I don't want to have to pull the trans because I went cheap. And I ordered ARP bolts but they say they're .880. Are you saying those are the wrong ones? They're for the 6.0 LS-based engines.

Edit: I just noticed that it looks like TCI includes mounting hardware so I'll see what they send.

I was referring to the flexplate to converter bolts when I said the 8.8 vs 12.9. Its a hardness rating and my PI converter came with 8.8 rated bolts that were useless and I reused my 12.9 bolts which aren't ARP. I don't think ARP has hardness issues with anything they make. My ARP flexplate to crank bolts are these..https://www.summitracing.com/oh/par...hopping-_-srese1-_-arp&ibanner=MobileSwitchNo

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[Rocket Man]

I was referring to the flexplate to converter bolts when I said the 8.8 vs 12.9. Its a hardness rating and my PI converter came with 8.8 rated bolts that were useless and I reused my 12.9 bolts which aren't ARP. I don't think ARP has hardness issues with anything they make. My ARP flexplate to crank bolts are these..https://www.summitracing.com/oh/par...hopping-_-srese1-_-arp&ibanner=MobileSwitchNo

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Those are the ARP bolts I ordered, the 244-2901. I'm hoping the FTI converter comes with the correct flexplate to converter bolts but if it doesn't, what should I have on hand?
edit; found them, ARP 230-7305 set of 6. Ordered.

 

[bottomline2000]

Those are the ARP bolts I ordered, the 244-2901. I'm hoping the FTI converter comes with the correct flexplate to converter bolts but if it doesn't, what should I have on hand?
edit; found them, ARP 230-7305 set of 6. Ordered.

Weird they sell them in sets of six. Your converter should only have 3 bolt holes. The stock 4l80 has 6 bolt holes. As long as they work. Sell the extras.

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[Rocket Man]

Weird they sell them in sets of six. Your converter should only have 3 bolt holes. The stock 4l80 has 6 bolt holes. As long as they work. Sell the extras.

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I wasn't sure if I needed the pack of 6 or 3; the description said 6 are needed for trucks. Figured more is better, not enough is not an option. Since I'm going to replace the rear main seal while the trans is off, I also ordered an OEM rear main seal cover (12639250) with main seal installed to make that job easier, a flywheel turning tool to ease things when I'm under there so I don't have to use a big flathead screwdriver, a set of 3/8" extensions in 18,24 and 30 inch lengths for the bellhousing bolts since I heard you need around 48" and 3 gallons of Dex VI. I think that will do it. I hope so, I'm going broke lol.

 

[Rocket Man]

Ok NOW I'm broke. I remembered reading that my G80 Eaton rear differential was in need of a girdle to strengthen the bearing caps so they don't flex under high HP applications and it seems the TA performance ones are favored so I ordered this beauty:

I should have a nice looking rear end soon...my truck should that is. This has a drain and fill port and studs that tighten against the bearing caps to prevent flex and also increases capacity by 1/2 pint and average 15 degrees cooler operating temp. It's also the low-profile one so panhard bar clearance isn't an issue. Still looking for info on the front diff as far as failure prevention.

 

[95escahoe]

Ok NOW I'm broke. I remembered reading that my G80 Eaton rear differential was in need of a girdle to strengthen the bearing caps so they don't flex under high HP applications and it seems the TA performance ones are favored so I ordered this beauty:

I should have a nice looking rear end soon...my truck should that is. This has a drain and fill port and studs that tighten against the bearing caps to prevent flex and also increases capacity by 1/2 pint and average 15 degrees cooler operating temp. It's also the low-profile one so panhard bar clearance isn't an issue. Still looking for info on the front diff as far as failure prevention.

The AWD front diff on the Escalade/Denali is a ticking time bomb when stock, your best bet is doing more frequent fluid changes unless someone makes a front diff for more power


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[HiHoeSilver]

I wasn't sure if I needed the pack of 6 or 3; the description said 6 are needed for trucks. Figured more is better, not enough is not an option. Since I'm going to replace the rear main seal while the trans is off, I also ordered an OEM rear main seal cover (12639250) with main seal installed to make that job easier, a flywheel turning tool to ease things when I'm under there so I don't have to use a big flathead screwdriver, a set of 3/8" extensions in 18,24 and 30 inch lengths for the bellhousing bolts since I heard you need around 48" and 3 gallons of Dex VI. I think that will do it. I hope so, I'm going broke lol.

We're all going broke just reading your thread! Keep it up, Red. You're killing it.

 

[Rocket Man]

The AWD front diff on the Escalade/Denali is a ticking time bomb when stock, your best bet is doing more frequent fluid changes unless someone makes a front diff for more power


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I'll probably get a Yukon Gear & Axle master rebuild kit and have it installed when I get the ring & pinion gears changed out to 4.11. it's better stuff than OEM. Until then it will be fluid changes and fingers crossed. I had the fluid changed about 20000 miles ago.

 

[1992rs]

Hey Red just a heads up the TA diff cover didn't fit my axle without Modification. I had to grind down the fins and the face of cover by the load bolts and notch a small bit out of my panhard bar.


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[bottomline2000]

Hey Red just a heads up the TA diff cover didn't fit my axle without Modification. I had to grind down the fins and the face of cover by the load bolts and notch a small bit out of my panhard bar.


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I was about to say this. I'm looking at this cover and regearing and it seems even the low profile one doesn't clear the Panhard. .

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[Rocket Man]

Hey Red just a heads up the TA diff cover didn't fit my axle without Modification. I had to grind down the fins and the face of cover by the load bolts and notch a small bit out of my panhard bar.


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Did you get the low profile one or the original? The low profile one has the area where the logo is ground down and the load bolts are recessed; it's made for vehicles with clearance issues due to panhard bars etc. Also I have the Spohn panhard bar which increases the clearance by about 1/2". I'm hoping it clears!

 

[1992rs]

Did you get the low profile one or the original? The low profile one has the area where the logo is ground down and the load bolts are recessed; it's made for vehicles with clearance issues due to panhard bars etc. Also I have the Spohn panhard bar which increases the clearance by about 1/2". I'm hoping it clears!

I got the low profile one too. With the spohn panhard bar you might be able to clear. TA says their cover is 3.75" deep, I measured mine at 3.5" and I had around 3.4" of room. Apparently in typical GM fashion, they didn't have good quality control and some brackets sit closer then others. I ended up making my own panhard bar with offset misalignment spacers that pushes it back 1/4" and smaller chromoly tubing and now I maybe have 1mm of clearance now.

Good luck, fingers crossed. Even mangled, my diff cover is still a beauty and it does work wonders!


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[Tonyrodz]

Got a li k for the cover?

 

[Rocket Man]

Got a li k for the cover?

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=automotive&field-keywords=ta-1807a

 

[Rocket Man]

Got the TA Performance girdle today. Sure is pretty. Too bad it won't fit even with the Spohn panhard bar so I ordered a QA1 panhard bar which is curved away from the diff and hopefully it will fit then. My rear end was only off-center by 1/4" so I don't really need an adjustable. Pulling the trans tomorrow, taking Wed off I can install the new one.
Edit: just noticed my Paypal for the QA1 went to Spohn Performance. Maybe they build them?

 

[Rocket Man]

Tranny is out. That was a hard job, and it took me 7 hours. Now that I know what it takes it should go in quicker. Fluid is real burnt - it smells horrible- and there's a lot of metal flakes in it. Definitely a catastrophic failure. Now I have to replace the rear seal on the engine and pull the flexplate and bell housing. Then wait until Wednesday to install.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Tranny is out. That was a hard job, and it took me 7 hours. Now that I know what it takes it should go in quicker. Fluid is real burnt - it smells horrible- and there's a lot of metal flakes in it. Definitely a catastrophic failure. Now I have to replace the rear seal on the engine and pull the flexplate and bell housing. Then wait until Wednesday to install. View attachment 181472View attachment 181473

Maybe you can keep the old case, and when time and money allows, rebuild it with some goodies, or even a stock build.