What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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inmypassatlife

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Haven't done an oil change since I bought it @181k. Dealer sticker said bring it in at 185k, I'm at 183.5k and had already put 2.5 qts in it. Not sure when exactly they changed it or what they put in. I just added parts store cheapo to hold me over.

Added half a can of seafoam to the oil and half to the fuel today when I got home. Let it idle for about 20 min with some revs. Then drained and filled with 6qts 5W-30 full synthetic Mobil 1, STP additive with leak guard (figured I'd try it since I'm burning some oil), and a new Delco filter. Feels good to have some piece of mind and now I can really gauge how much it's burning.
89e180b0130d3cc4a95d2eced90f71ee.jpg


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The ATP stop leak has been most effective for me compared to STP and others
 

jarydM

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Haven't done an oil change since I bought it @181k. Dealer sticker said bring it in at 185k, I'm at 183.5k and had already put 2.5 qts in it. Not sure when exactly they changed it or what they put in. I just added parts store cheapo to hold me over.

Added half a can of seafoam to the oil and half to the fuel today when I got home. Let it idle for about 20 min with some revs. Then drained and filled with 6qts 5W-30 full synthetic Mobil 1, STP additive with leak guard (figured I'd try it since I'm burning some oil), and a new Delco filter. Feels good to have some piece of mind and now I can really gauge how much it's burning.
89e180b0130d3cc4a95d2eced90f71ee.jpg


Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


for what ever reason, and depending on who you talk to, when the switch is made from conventional to synthetic, the engine "uses" 1-2 qts of oil for the first few changes. After that, it normalizes, or whatever, and now my truck doesnt use or leak any oil. I drain 6qts out, and put 6 qts in every time. (then I dump it all over the driveway... ugh)
 

W8TVI

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Nice deep tone. Is it a flowmaster?
My dad is not sure, but the mechanic told him the sound would get better with age.
It is setup as true dual exhaust, and the mufflers look like factory style mufflers.

I plan on eventually getting the same thing on my Yukon XL.
 

04Huck

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The ATP stop leak has been most effective for me compared to STP and others
:shake: I'll look into that for next time. I've had decent luck with the STP products in the past though
for what ever reason, and depending on who you talk to, when the switch is made from conventional to synthetic, the engine "uses" 1-2 qts of oil for the first few changes. After that, it normalizes, or whatever, and now my truck doesnt use or leak any oil. I drain 6qts out, and put 6 qts in every time. (then I dump it all over the driveway... ugh)
I've always heard that as well. It seems like all of my LS powered trucks have used 1-2qts over the course of 5-7500 miles the whole time I owned the trucks (2-3 years each). From my research that's about normal.

I was just concerned with this truck because of the occasional black smoke cloud I get at start up after sitting a few hours and being 2qts low after only ~2500 miles from purchase. But like I said, idk when the dealer changed it or what they used. I may switch to 10w-30 next time if it continues the oil usage, just to see how it reacts.

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04Huck

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Thanks @jarydM. It does have a bit of a rough idle so I'll be doing a tune up soon as well, hoping I don't have a leaking injector or something. It runs awesome otherwise, just shimmies a tad at idle

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jarydM

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Thanks @jarydM. It does have a bit of a rough idle so I'll be doing a tune up soon as well, hoping I don't have a leaking injector or something. It runs awesome otherwise, just shimmies a tad at idle

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is it throwing any codes? have you checked?

black smoke could also be a rich condition, which might also be part of the rough idle. Mine was damn near flooding when one of my O2 sensors let go, and then it started burning oil until I replaced it. Lots of things could cause rough idle though, and with age, some of the intake gaskets start to let go too.

too many issues to think about. I would check and see if it has any codes first. Then clean MAF and Throttle Body (there are special cleaners for both of these), change filter (or clean), and replace plugs and wires, if you haven't ever.

run seafoam, or your additive of choice through the fuel system, and if its pre 2003 (I think) replace your fuel filter. If its doesn't have one on the rails near the rear passenger tire, then its part of the pump inside the tank, and don't replace that unless you HAVE to.
 

04Huck

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is it throwing any codes? have you checked?

black smoke could also be a rich condition, which might also be part of the rough idle. Mine was damn near flooding when one of my O2 sensors let go, and then it started burning oil until I replaced it. Lots of things could cause rough idle though, and with age, some of the intake gaskets start to let go too.

too many issues to think about. I would check and see if it has any codes first. Then clean MAF and Throttle Body (there are special cleaners for both of these), change filter (or clean), and replace plugs and wires, if you haven't ever.

run seafoam, or your additive of choice through the fuel system, and if its pre 2003 (I think) replace your fuel filter. If its doesn't have one on the rails near the rear passenger tire, then its part of the pump inside the tank, and don't replace that unless you HAVE to.

I don't have any codes. But I do have some maf cleaner at the house, planning on new air filter/plugs/wife's and a good seafoam of the top end if I can find a good vacuum spot to suck it in. I have hydroboost so it's a bit more difficult

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jarydM

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I don't have any codes. But I do have some maf cleaner at the house, planning on new air filter/plugs/wife's and a good seafoam of the top end if I can find a good vacuum spot to suck it in. I have hydroboost so it's a bit more difficult

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Good luck on the "new wives" hahaha

Yeah, mine is hydro boost too, I didn't suck the seafoam through the vacuum line, just dumped it in a new tank of gas. Hopefully the stutter at idle is just a tlc thing.
 

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