Need help lowering my 2004 GMC Yukon XL Denali

[Zigger21]

How do you drop the leaf springs to make it a lower ride and the front I just need new shocks and cutting a piece out of the coil springs. Is this correct on the front and how to do the leaf springs. I remembering watching a show and they lowered the springs by spreading them out, I wish I would have DVR'd it. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

If it's a 2004 you shouldn't have lead springs at all in the rear. It should consist of coils and what's virtually a 4 link with panhard bar. The front should consist of torsion keys/bars and spindles.

Depending on how low you want to go will depend on the best route to achieve that

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Leaf springs are only in the trucks.

You'll have coil springs in the rear.

Also there are not coil springs in the front you have torsion bars.


Go take a look under there first and then come back with some questions lol.

 

[Zigger21]

Leaf springs are only in the trucks.

You'll have coil springs in the rear.

Also there are not coil springs in the front you have torsion bars.


Go take a look under there first and then come back with some questions lol.

 

[Zigger21]

Im sorry I was misinformed, sorry guys, but If I want to lower it 2 inches could I do that in my garage with a quick-jack and basically an apprentice tool box plus more besides a welder.

 

[Fosscore]

Take a look here.

http://www.tbssowners.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=90

There are many kits that this vendor has sold to guys all over this forum depending on what setup you are looking for. This kit is for the 2/3 inch drop. Good place to research before going at it and yes you can do it yourself if you want.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Im sorry I was misinformed, sorry guys, but If I want to lower it 2 inches could I do that in my garage with a quick-jack and basically an apprentice tool box plus more besides a welder.

Yeah. You can do it yourself No problem.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Adjusting the torsion keys could get you about a 1" up front before it'll make the ride terrible and cutting 1 curl out of each coil would drop the rear a 1"-2" but then you would have to mess with the ride height sensors being a Denali

But that's the cheap way out. It would be better overall for your ride quality and vehicle longevity to buy a proper kit

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Take a look here.

http://www.tbssowners.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=90

There are many kits that this vendor has sold to guys all over this forum depending on what setup you are looking for. This kit is for the 2/3 inch drop. Good place to research before going at it and yes you can do it yourself if you want.

I still can't figure out why people use keys to drop. The stock keys are more than capable of getting you as low as you can go without completely trashing your ride quality. Yet people still buy them... I have mine turned down about an inch - 1.5" (and I could go further on the stock keys if I wanted) which is really the limit on keys alone if you value ride quality at all. I even run shorter aftermarket jounce bumpers as the ride with the stock jounce bumpers @ this height was harsh. I couldn't imagine people decranking 2"+ on those keys with stock jounce bumpers.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

my 04 had spinldes, keys, and a camber kit to achieve a 5" drop which means I had the keys backed out to about 3" of drop. I don't think you can get that out of the stock keys

 

[01ssreda4]

I did a djm 2/3 and started with stock keys. They were done at about 2 inches of drop, the problem is there was no adjustment left for the alignment guy. I never did install the drop keys because I ended up getting some drop spindles instead. Get the shock relocation brackets for 60 bucks and it will ride like stock. My autoride is deleted btw.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

my 04 had spinldes, keys, and a camber kit to achieve a 5" drop which means I had the keys backed out to about 3" of drop. I don't think you can get that out of the stock keys

So you just use no jounce stop in the front and/or have very little uptravel?

 

[NeverSatisfied]

So you just use no jounce stop in the front and/or have very little uptravel?

Z71 stops with holes drilled in them

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Z71 stops with holes drilled in them

AH you went that route. I've considered that option as well.

 

[Zigger21]

Take a look here.

http://www.tbssowners.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=90

There are many kits that this vendor has sold to guys all over this forum depending on what setup you are looking for. This kit is for the 2/3 inch drop. Good place to research before going at it and yes you can do it yourself if you want.

I have 2004 Yukon Xl Denali all drive with the Autoride, Is there any kits that you know for my ride.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

I have 2004 Yukon Xl Denali all drive with the Autoride, Is there any kits that you know for my ride.

Yeah... does your autoride function properly?

 

[NORCAL SS]

I have 2004 Yukon Xl Denali all drive with the Autoride, Is there any kits that you know for my ride.

here you go
http://www.tbssowners.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=86

 

[Zigger21]

Yeah... does your autoride function properly?

It works properly but the warning is stuck on "i

Yeah... does your autoride function properly?

It works properly but the warning is stuck on " Service Auto Ride". I replaced the compressor and went underneath and applied air to the shocks and they pump up all the way and didn't have any leak at all that heard and they stayed pumped up for 5 minutes on each one without a whisp. But That dumb warning wont go away.

 

[Zigger21]

So you just use no jounce stop in the front and/or have very little uptravel?

Im very sorry for being a rookie and all but what does "Jounce" mean?

 

[Chip18]

I'm very sorry for being a rookie and all but what does "Jounce" mean?

It's a situation you want to "avoid" the rear axle bangs off the rear bump stop. Shocks and springs work together by absorbing the upward energy from bumps, if you hit a bump and you don't have enough suspension travel in the rear ... the process gets halted and the energy gets "transferred to the frame" through the unaltered bump stop location to the vehicle.

In the "Real World ..." that means "instant unanticipated" change of direction! My most spectacular example was back in the day with a full "Koni" Fiero!

80 mph sweeper with a mid corner bump ... I knew it was there (the bump) because, I'd hit it many times in my Merkur XR4Ti (Stock) at 100 or so. So 80 in the "modded" Fiero ... no big deal?? Yeah not so much it was late at night in Ca ... all the "nut balls" prowl the canyons late at night.

I hit that bump hard and the rear end lifts up and I'm in the other lane??? Still pointed in the intended direction since I never lifted but my eyes got pretty big!

But think "Unlimited Hydrofoil" and the boats skipping off the waves ... your "Vehicle" will do the same thing if you don't have enough rear suspension travel!

In San Jose Ca we have a popular stretch of road with some really bumps! And it often takes out high dollar, modded cars with full coilover suspensions! Super stiff springs and limited suspension travel ... the unknowing hit those bumps on full kill and they don't make it to the bottom of the hill!!

Happens all the time out there. Most stock cars with full suspension travel were actually faster down that hill than the full kill turbo charged, coilover equipped monsters!!

I actually shattered a headlight one night going up there in my "Modded Mini Truck" Toyota. A Mustang though ... he was going to pass me up the hill??? Yeah ... I don't think so!! Good Times Good Times ...

But yeah as I am want to say ... I give sound advice ... I don't often follow it so ... don't drive like that on "public roads!"

Pretty sure "Norcal SS" can tell you how much clearance you need to have with your vehicle at rest.