I have a 6" lift, need help fitting 35x12.50R20 tires. Any advice?

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20hoe3

20hoe3

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Not trying to kill people but a lot of people run them with no issues. Even my lift came with spacers, fabtech sells them to level some kits, pro comp, and RC. Some are bolt in on frame on top of coil and others like fabtech are under the coil on axle to spring. If you wanted to go the safest route while running them get the RC 2" ones that bolt into the frame on top of the coil spacer. Haha just trying to help him out wit options to gain some extra lift using a barely noticeable BL. Agreed offset is the key but judging by the wheel test picture it appears to be a 20x12 fuel so I was suggesting run that rim with smaller tire and little more lift to clear. Another thing not helping him clear is the front track width increase with that CV spacer! Damn looks to be around 1.5-2". I would run some wheel spacers to even up track width too.




You probably already know. But fabtech supplies the CV spacer with lift kit. Most full lift kits come with the CV spacers.

And do you mean add wheel spacers in the rear only so it's even width front and rear?

Also the black test rim was never purchased. I just ended up getting tires to current chrome rim. I could probably go 20x10 or 20x9 and figure out offset from there with 12.50 wide tire. but yes if it comes down to it I'll go narrower. but that isn't what I wanted LOL this is driving me crazy lol.

Do you agree my lift looks to low compared to other brands. or are other brandside same damn size and people never say they put a BL and keys , etc. lol
 
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20hoe3

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my tahoe is a 6" suspention. i am running a true 35x12.5-20 TOYO on 20x10 Fuel wheels with a -28 offset. the front lower valance is trimmed at an angle of 2" the inner wheel well liners are trimmed flush to the bottom of the washer fluid tank (whatever that measurement is. and my keys are turned like 1.25 more than stock i think 1/4" and thats simply to make the truck sit dead level


Dude your tahoe is clean! That is the look I'm going for as far as wheel dish depth is. In my side profile of suburban do you feel it needs to go up 1/4" with keys to look even more level? I thought it was level right now.

Also you lift looks a lot taller than mine.


Also did you re-gear and do any tuning? because my burb is great around the streets but a Dog going up hills. it's not happy and all torque isn't where I want it to be.
 
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20hoe3

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thats because spacers and shock extensions are the CHEAP alternative to larger springs and proper stroke length shocks. I have 135k miles on my lift and 35s. only issues were 2 ball joints dieing from normal life and wheel bearings about 2.5 years or so needing replace. otherwise she rides smooth. i can take my hands off the wheel at 85mph and she tracks like a .50c hurraling 2,300 yards at a terrorists head to blow a hole thru it like a soft water mellon.

lube your suspension, replace broken parts when warn so other shit does not break and things roll smooth and last.


if you need taller rear springs order a set of the SKYJACKER 7" coils and you are good to go.



Skyjacker 7" that could probably work! I have Autoride you think it will still operate correctly?
 

01Konvict

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You probably already know. But fabtech supplies the CV spacer with lift kit. Most full lift kits come with the CV spacers.

And do you mean add wheel spacers in the rear only so it's even width front and rear?

Also the black test rim was never purchased. I just ended up getting tires to current chrome rim. I could probably go 20x10 or 20x9 and figure out offset from there with 12.50 wide tire. but yes if it comes down to it I'll go narrower. but that isn't what I wanted LOL this is driving me crazy lol.

Do you agree my lift looks to low compared to other brands. or are other brandside same damn size and people never say they put a BL and keys , etc. lol

Yes I'm aware most kits use a cv spacer. Mine uses a 1" so it minimizes track width increase. Yours looks larger than mine around 1.5-2". That doesn't help the high offset with tires getting near bumper corners. The lower the offset the worse it will go into corner. Also looks like the front bumper is lined up good to body.

I would add rear wheel spacers to even front to rear width. Personally like the looks better.

You can run a x10 with true 35x12.50 but need to trim like John said in the corners. The lift looks like a true 6". Your current wheels basically equal a 20x9. It the shorter tires makes it look smaller to others. Rough country will sell their lower shock extenders made for air ride that can help when you add longer coils or coil spacer for extra height. Then some crank on the keys or lift keys to get a little more height with safe angles up front. That will all help the 35s.
 

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i have: a fully built $3,200k transmission i was out of town when is granaded otherwise i would have swapped in an 80, which i have one of and plan to swap. Intake exhaust and a lot of tuning. she is no drag racer but she runs the interstate nice and goes around town plenty quick. With the stock 3.83 gears she will not do a posi burn out with this much meat and that gearing. I feal the camper and before our next trip i will be regearing to a 4.11 or a 4.56 i have not decided.
 

01Konvict

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Yeah I have the 6.2 and 6 speed in my 11 Denali with 3.42 gears. Only 3.73 was an option in the trucks. I tested some 35s and they bogged my truck down pretty bad until I got mid range on rpm. I dropped down to 33.5 and back to normal power. The weight difference in tires was 76 to 63 pounds. That's a huge difference in power. If your set on 35s find the lightest weight tire possible. I decided to run smaller tires and wider wheels to avoid regearing.
 

01Konvict

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@20hoe3 here is a dude in cali that got a 6-8" bulletproof kit. The lift gave him 6" but he wanted a little more so he added keys and 1.5" spacer. Angles were fine after extra lift, here's some pics of it and link to thread.

Before at 6"
image-jpeg.56373


After at 7.5" and CV angles
image-jpeg.56692

image-jpeg.56695

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/newly-lifted-tahoe.75449/
 

yates ™

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^^ that is likely a 7" front drop vs. his 6". Stop trying to get him to over crank his suspension, his angles are already more extreme than the picture you posted.

His current angles.
3-jpg.69133
 

jdpber

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No one likes to ride on a CRANKED torsion front suspension it literally rides like a wild west wagon or a go cart.
 

01Konvict

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If your angles are already stretched then you don't want to add any extra from keys. True statement if keys are cranked it rides like a go cart with fixed suspension.
 

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