Would you replace engine

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Goldstreak2874

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I have an 07 Suburban with 215,000. We rebuilt the trans 8 months ago. It needs motor mounts, has an oil pan leak. Needs some front end work and struts. We owe about 4,000 on it. Paid off next year. Would you just repair motor mounts or put a reman in? We have the typical oil consumption issue even after changing the gaskets. It has other issues but nothing that I can't deal with right now.

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iamdub

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Why replace the whole motor just for motor mounts? Replace the mounts with the non-hydraulic ones and move on. An oil pan leak doesn't constitute total replacement, either, unless there's more to the story that you haven't divulged.
 

David Smith

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I would just replace the mounts and the pan gasket. Assuming there are no other hidden issues like dub stated above.
 
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Goldstreak2874

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We have issues with misfires and fouled plugs pretty frequently. probably 3 times a year. Plus we have 215,000 on it so we just want to make an educated repair. The body is excellent.
 

swathdiver

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I have an 07 Suburban with 215,000. We rebuilt the trans 8 months ago. It needs motor mounts, has an oil pan leak. Needs some front end work and struts. We owe about 4,000 on it. Paid off next year. Would you just repair motor mounts or put a reman in? We have the typical oil consumption issue even after changing the gaskets. It has other issues but nothing that I can't deal with right now.

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Looks nice! Have y'all replaced the driver's side valve cover with the updated one that came out in 2011? It helps reduce oil consumption. Judging from your other post, it sounds like your AFM system is worn and needs to be overhauled or replaced. This requires removing the cylinder heads and putting in new lifters and such depending on what you want to do. Is this a 2WD or 4WD truck?
 

01FormulaTA

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just replace the motor mounts, and while you are at it might as well just pull the engine when you replace the mounts and rebuild it with new gaskets and lifters, get the heads refreshed, throw a little cam in there and delete the AFM and you'll be good to go for another 200k+ miles...also you can get some new OE struts for very cheap and then have a shop just swap over the old springs for prob 2 hours of labor or less...I believe the struts are part# 20955497
 
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Goldstreak2874

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Looks nice! Have y'all replaced the driver's side valve cover with the updated one that came out in 2011? It helps reduce oil consumption. Judging from your other post, it sounds like your AFM system is worn and needs to be overhauled or replaced. This requires removing the cylinder heads and putting in new lifters and such depending on what you want to do. Is this a 2WD or 4WD truck?
We did do the valve covers. Didn't help.
Is putting new lifters in cheaper then a reman? How do you check the lifters first? Excuse my lack of knowledge I'm here for honest opinions. It is 4WD
 
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Goldstreak2874

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just replace the motor mounts, and while you are at it might as well just pull the engine when you replace the mounts and rebuild it with new gaskets and lifters, get the heads refreshed, throw a little cam in there and delete the AFM and you'll be good to go for another 200k+ miles...also you can get some new OE struts for very cheap and then have a shop just swap over the old springs for prob 2 hours of labor or less...I believe the struts are part# 20955497
just replace the motor mounts, and while you are at it might as well just pull the engine when you replace the mounts and rebuild it with new gaskets and lifters, get the heads refreshed, throw a little cam in there and delete the AFM and you'll be good to go for another 200k+ miles...also you can get some new OE struts for very cheap and then have a shop just swap over the old springs for prob 2 hours of labor or less...I believe the struts are part# 20955497
That sounds like a lot of money
 

HiHoeSilver

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Why replace the whole motor just for motor mounts? Replace the mounts with the non-hydraulic ones and move on. An oil pan leak doesn't constitute total replacement, either, unless there's more to the story that you haven't divulged.

Is this a situation for the hummer mounts?
 

Da90

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Is this a situation for the hummer mounts?
I would like to know this also. The motor mounts in my Suburban are broke. I’ve seen the thread on here about these. Will the Hummer mounts really bolt up? I went to the dealer and o’Reillys neither had them in stock for me to compare.


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swathdiver

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We did do the valve covers. Didn't help.
Is putting new lifters in cheaper then a reman? How do you check the lifters first? Excuse my lack of knowledge I'm here for honest opinions. It is 4WD

Depending on where you live and who does the work, retail price for a top end rebuild is about $3000 with labor and reman engines seem to run $3500-4500 before installation.

Folks with a modest knowledge of mechanics, physical ability and who can follow a manual can do the work themselves saving $1000+ in labor costs but broken exhaust bolts will need extracting and surely slow the process down.

The best way to check the lifters is first by sound and then by monitoring each cylinder's performance with a Tech2, GMs tool for working on these trucks. It can test the fuel system, ignition coils and AFM system and see where any problems lie. This I would do first to gain as much knowledge as possible as to what is exactly wrong with the truck.

If you decide on a reman or new crate engine, get the ones without VVT, that feature came out in 2010. Your engine is the all aluminum LC9, you can confirm that by looking for that on the RPO sheet on the inside of your glovebox door.

At 215K, it's time for a mid-life overhaul. If the front suspension and steering was not rebuilt it's likely time. same with the rear, all fluids should be changed every 50k or 100k miles depending on how y'all drive it.

If you do not desire the original fluid filled motor mounts which helped dampen engine vibrations, people use the mounts from the H2 Hummer. Not sure how that will affect the truck in V4 mode so you might ask around about that before deciding which way to go.

Post up where y'all live, there may be forum members close by with a Tech2 or good scan tools that would be delighted to help.
 
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Goldstreak2874

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Depending on where you live and who does the work, retail price for a top end rebuild is about $3000 with labor and reman engines seem to run $3500-4500 before installation.

Folks with a modest knowledge of mechanics, physical ability and who can follow a manual can do the work themselves saving $1000+ in labor costs but broken exhaust bolts will need extracting and surely slow the process down.

The best way to check the lifters is first by sound and then by monitoring each cylinder's performance with a Tech2, GMs tool for working on these trucks. It can test the fuel system, ignition coils and AFM system and see where any problems lie. This I would do first to gain as much knowledge as possible as to what is exactly wrong with the truck.

If you decide on a reman or new crate engine, get the ones without VVT, that feature came out in 2010. Your engine is the all aluminum LC9, you can confirm that by looking for that on the RPO sheet on the inside of your glovebox door.

At 215K, it's time for a mid-life overhaul. If the front suspension and steering was not rebuilt it's likely time. same with the rear, all fluids should be changed every 50k or 100k miles depending on how y'all drive it.

If you do not desire the original fluid filled motor mounts which helped dampen engine vibrations, people use the mounts from the H2 Hummer. Not sure how that will affect the truck in V4 mode so you might ask around about that before deciding which way to go.

Post up where y'all live, there may be forum members close by with a Tech2 or good scan tools that would be delighted to help.
I'm in Delaware and we just had a code 2 weeks ago and the fuel alcohol levels needed reset.
 

swathdiver

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I'm in Delaware and we just had a code 2 weeks ago and the fuel alcohol levels needed reset.

Do you know if the alcohol content was reset? Do you remember the code? That can sometimes happen and the fuel mileage will suffer and if really bad, it can foul the catalytic converters. With the right tool, it's a five minute job.

I sure wish we had a map for members to participate in, showing where they lived so people could get together to help each other out in person if desired.
 

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