Will replacing factory speakers be enough?

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dsquared

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I drive a 2001 Tahoe with non-bose and with onstar. My rear factory sub woofer blew a long time ago, and I had just unhooked it and used my factory door speakers. This is obviously not ideal, but at the time it didn't bother me much.

About 6 months ago, I replaced the factory sub woofer with my buddies old factory sub woofer he had taken out of his F-150(It was in its own "shallow" box so i just placed it the cargo area and connected the old wires from my tahoe to the wires on his sub). About 2 months ago, the sub woofer randomly stopped working. I've tried to figure out the reason why, but can't for the life of me. The back tweeters are also not working, so I'm guessing it has to do with power getting to the rear of the car?

At this point I'm wondering if I replace all of the door speakers with higher quality speakers, will this add more bass? I know it obvoiusly won't be as nice as having a seperate sub, but will it sound okay? I am also willing to replace the factory head unit as well.

Any advice??
 

yates ™

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It could be that the factory deck has bad speaker channels or if you have a factory amp they could be bad on that. Probably be happiest changing the head unit and adding amps and speakers or just speakers if you are not huge into loud music.
 

YukonXL04

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I have replaced many of factory radios and speakers. For the normal listener replacing the radio and keeping stock speakers seems to have a fuller sound. On most of the vehicles I have done replacing the speakers even with expensive high end components usually sounds "clearer" but lacks lower end. Because most dont want to pay for the sound deadening to "seal" the doors and adding a aftermarket amp as well.

So just swapping speakers IMHO would be a no. I would say to swap the radio first.
 

HortonHiresAHoe

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You will be very surprised with the sound from a nice, powered 3 way component set, but (as Shawn mentioned) deadened and sealed is a must to get that low end. A basic sub/amp setup w/ mid-level components would be cheaper though.
 
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dsquared

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Thanks for all of the help everyone. I think I'll swap out the factory head unit first, then get 4 new 3-way speakers. I don't know too much about all of this and I'm not sure which stereo to buy. My price range is around $120 +- $20 for the new head unit, and about the same for all 4 speakers, maybe a little more. I'm not looking for anything too loud or high end, just something that will sound good.
 
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dsquared

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http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63986_Pioneer-DEH-X7500HD.html

I have that one in my golf cart and am really happy with it for the price

Haha, I'm not sure if it's sad that my price range for a head unit is the equivalent to your golf cart or awesome that you have, what I'm assuming to be, a pretty badass golf cart :laughing1:

Either way, thanks for the advice!

What's your take on these?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...scplp3797051&gclid=CMS1sPWetr0CFTMV7Aod_VwAjw
 

HortonHiresAHoe

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YukonXL04

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Son of a gun someone else knows what audiopipe is! Hahaha the wholesale place I buy some of my audio stuff from carries audiopipe. Honestly I love their subs and amps for the money. sound quality Eh... It's decent.

Those incriminators probably sound good, but will need a full deadening and amp.

For budget friendly, no deadening or amp, these are my go to speakers.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63995_Pioneer-TS-A1605C.html

I have used them in multiple installs only powered by a radio and they seem to have more of a fuller sound to them compared to others under the same circumstances. They aren't super high end, but for the average person they do well. Just run those in the front doors and keep your stock speakers in the rear.

Haha see my albums for my golf cart install.

I would recommend using a subwoofer though.
 
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dsquared

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Really appreciate all the help Shawn! Apparently my girl's brother has an alpine R 12'' sitting at his house so I'm gonna see if he'd let me get that off his hands haha. Ok last question(probably)...what type of amp should I use to power the sub if I do end up getting it? Again, not trying to beat up the block just have a nice, full sound in my tahoe.

Checked out the golf cart by the way..diggin it lol
 

YukonXL04

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Well... 2 options. Get a monoblock (single channel) amp just for the sub.
Or get a 4 channel, run the front speakers off channels 1+2 and the sub off 3+4 bridged to make 1 channel. Then buy a small 8 inch sub to fit in the factory box and it won't take up any cargo area. From what I understand of you that would be a good option.

Now the alpine 12 will have much more bass. Where as the 8 will just fill in the lower range and compliment the front.

Thanks, the golf cart is a work in progress. Wanted the audio done first, up next is paint, lift kit, and wheels and tires.
 
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dsquared

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Yeah the four channel amp would make sense, think I'll go that route.

Then buy a small 8 inch sub to fit in the factory box and it won't take up any cargo area.

Would that sub be powered off the stock amp or something? Because at the moment, the 8" sub i have in a separate box but using the factory wiring isn't working. Still not sure what the problem is there. Possibly the amp is going bad, but I would doubt that.
 

YukonXL04

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Okay a 4 channel amp has 4 channels. Ch1 for drivers side front door speaker. Ch2 for passenger side front door speaker. Channels 3 and 4 will be bridged and used as one combined channel to power the subwoofer
 
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dsquared

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Alright, so far this is what I'm planning on putting in my hoe:

Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-X7500HD $104.95

Front - Pioneer TS-A1605C 6.5" 2-Way Component $69.99

Sub - Alpine SWR-12D2 12" Dual 2 ohm Type-R Already Own

Amp - Alpine MRP-F300 4-channel amp - 50 watts RMS x 4 $129.99

For a total of about $305.

I'm planning on using the first two channels to power the front speakers, the head unit to power the rear stock speakers, and bridging the last two channels together to power the sub.

Okay a 4 channel amp has 4 channels. Ch1 for drivers side front door speaker. Ch2 for passenger side front door speaker. Channels 3 and 4 will be bridged and used as one combined channel to power the subwoofer

I think I misunderstood what you were saying previously. I thought you were saying add both the alpine sub and another 8" sub, which is why I asked where the 8" would be powered from.

Anyone see any issues with this? Amp not strong enough, resistance issues, ect? Thanks again for all of the help, would've had much more trouble deciding what to get without ya'll.
 

YukonXL04

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Yeah that amp definitely isn't strong enough to power the alpine type r.
If your on a budget try finding a used amp locally. Also your going to have a hard time finding a 4 channel amp that will power that sub. So if you are going to use the alpine type r then just find a monoblock amp to run it and power the speakers with the radio.
 
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dsquared

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Ahh I see, perhaps I'll check on craigslist then for the amp. I know the sub is rated at 1000 watts rms, but would an amp that gives it 500 watts power it decently?
 

HortonHiresAHoe

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Yeah that amp definitely isn't strong enough to power the alpine type r.
If your on a budget try finding a used amp locally. Also your going to have a hard time finding a 4 channel amp that will power that sub. So if you are going to use the alpine type r then just find a monoblock amp to run it and power the speakers with the radio.

This is 100% accurate... the type r needs dedicated power. As mentioned earlier, Audiopipe sound quality is just so-so (on par w/ kicker, pioneer, etc...), but they make one of the most powerful amps for the money.

If I were doing a budget build, I wouldn't hesitate to run an APSM-1300 w/ that Type R
 
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dsquared

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This is 100% accurate... the type r needs dedicated power. As mentioned earlier, Audiopipe sound quality is just so-so (on par w/ kicker, pioneer, etc...), but they make one of the most powerful amps for the money.

If I were doing a budget build, I wouldn't hesitate to run an APSM-1300 w/ that Type R

Ah shit yeah, that looks perfect and still cheap. Like I said from the beginning, I'm not trying to make a crazy ass system..just something that will sound a lot better than stock. Preciate it man!
 

HortonHiresAHoe

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No problem... I didn't notice earlier that you have the 2 ohm vc's. You'd be better off to spend an extra $20 or so to step up to the ASPM-1500 and wire to 4 ohms. The 1300 is power hungry and you'd need to upgrade the electrical to run @ 1 ohm, which would defeat the purpose of buying an inexpensive amp. Good luck and post lots of pics.
 
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livingez_123

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How about a nice 6chl amp? run the front on 1,2 rear on 3,4 and bridge 5,6 for the sub?
 

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