Who has the most miles on their 07-14 SUV?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
E

Eric D

TYF Newbie
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Posts
10
Reaction score
4
Well, I was a bit sad to say goodbye, but I decided to let mine go at 297,000. I was able to get $600 over KBB value. I am going to start looking for a newer/lower milage replacement. I wasn't necessarily afraid of keeping it, but now I can get one that is a little newer now too.
 

89Suburban

Bull in the china shop
Space X Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2013
Posts
18,032
Reaction score
51,355
Location
SE PA
On my '07 Tahoe.


IMG_8465[1].JPG







There's a few fellas here in the 400K club in the GMT800 section:


 

kbuskill

***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Joined
Mar 11, 2017
Posts
5,857
Reaction score
9,914
Location
NE. FL.
@kbuskill I think Ken's Suburban is well into the 320K range and he just took it across country.

Mine has a ways to go yet, she's in the 220s.

I believe my '08 Burb is nearing 360,000 miles. My wife daily drives it so I'm not up on the mileage on a day to day basis.

James @swathdiver is correct however, we just completed a big trip at Christmas time and she had 354,155 on the clock when we pulled back into the driveway with zero issues after the 7,086 mile Great American Western Road Trip.

Loaded down with the family and luggage plus a hitch carrier she weighed 7,480 lbs when topped off with fuel and averaged about 19 mpg and consumed about 1-1.5 quarts of oil over the course of the trip, which isn't bad in my book for a truck with a 4 speed and 3:73 gears running 80-85 mph most of the trip since the speed limit out west was 75-80 mph.
 

Prospect62

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Posts
261
Reaction score
200
Location
Central NY
It seems to me that if you can avoid rust and corrosion issues (like someone else said this depends on where you live), and you do a good AFM delete and address the torque converter, there's not really much keeping these things from going indefinitely.

Kinda like a Crown Vic and other very well engineered domestic automobiles made during this era that can trace their lineage back to the 70's and 80's. Just oil, gas, tires and brakes once you address one or two typical issues.
 
OP
OP
E

Eric D

TYF Newbie
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Posts
10
Reaction score
4
Disabled at 205k, at 237k now.
You at 300k with AFM enabled?
I did a disable at about 275K, but then had a lifter tray crack, allowing the lifter to spin, and it started to wipe out the cam. I caught it pretty quick, and did a new oil pump, new standard cam and all new non-afm lifters. Was running great after all that, and it was a tough decision, but I ended up selling it so I can get one newer and fewer miles.
 
OP
OP
E

Eric D

TYF Newbie
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Posts
10
Reaction score
4
It seems to me that if you can avoid rust and corrosion issues (like someone else said this depends on where you live), and you do a good AFM delete and address the torque converter, there's not really much keeping these things from going indefinitely.

Kinda like a Crown Vic and other very well engineered domestic automobiles made during this era that can trace their lineage back to the 70's and 80's. Just oil, gas, tires and brakes once you address one or two typical issues.
What is the torque converter issue? And how do you address it?
 

Prospect62

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Posts
261
Reaction score
200
Location
Central NY
What is the torque converter issue? And how do you address it?
They disintegrate with heat and age, sending metal fragments circulating through the rest of the transmission and subsequently destroying it. Poor design/construction and transmission shifting activity programmed toward smoothness, fuel economy and easing the harshness of the AFM system is what does them in.

I had one let go in my 2016 Suburban. Zero warning. One day it just stopped moving.

The prescription is the removal of the OEM converter and replacement with a billet one.
 
OP
OP
E

Eric D

TYF Newbie
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Posts
10
Reaction score
4
They disintegrate with heat and age, sending metal fragments circulating through the rest of the transmission and subsequently destroying it. Poor design/construction and transmission shifting activity programmed toward smoothness, fuel economy and easing the harshness of the AFM system is what does them in.

I had one let go in my 2016 Suburban. Zero warning. One day it just stopped moving.

The prescription is the removal of the OEM converter and replacement with a billet one.
Recommendations on the billet one?
 

Prospect62

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Posts
261
Reaction score
200
Location
Central NY
Recommendations on the billet one?
That I can't help you with. My transmission shop just included one they said was billet with a reman 6L80 for a total of $5500. Ouch. That truck is now gone (not because of the trans but because it started to ROT OUT at 8 years old).
 

BaffledRob

TYF Newbie
Joined
Mar 6, 2026
Posts
3
Reaction score
8
I'm at 300k, but the previous owner did the software delete somewhere before 200k miles. I recently measured the lifter bores on the driver's side and the #7 is 0.845" so I'm driving it as is for now, but it's going to get an afm and vvt deleted motor that I'm going to build from a junkyard motor sometime this year. I put it back together with new lifters, trays, and the upgraded vlom, so hopefully it makes it another 10k miles or so.
 

Ivanhoe

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
60
Reaction score
102
Location
Canada
2012 tahoe with 248000 miles (400000 kms)
Deleted afm at 270000 kms after failed
Lifter
Still driving well but recently started to drop oil pressure towards oil change time which is remedied by oil change.

Using kirkland 5w30 for past few years as its right spec and cheap
 

Forum statistics

Threads
138,038
Posts
1,997,637
Members
102,975
Latest member
jkhuntzinger
Back
Top