Which should I do? Replace door hinge, fix roller or nothing

[novemberr]

Hello,
The hinge is cheaper than roller pin. Should I change the hinge? Is it easier to work on hinge?
If I don't fix it, will the door be damaged? If it is only noisy, I will leave it for now.
Thank you for the advice.
Regards.

 

[OR VietVet]

Replace it all at the same time. Watch some you tube videos first. Not one video, but several of them.

 

[wjburken]

I’ve had much better luck with full hinge replacement than with the replacement pins and rollers.

 

[petethepug]

I’ve heard the same as above, however, knock on wood, when I arranged to have the body shop guy replace a horribly noisy pass door hinge, he didn’t do it. He sprayed it with one of those super penetrating lubes.

I tried oil & WD40 in the past. The body shop was right. After over a year, the door is buttery smooth, quiet and cured. I’m glad I was wrong about my assumption. I lived with that noisy hinge for over a year and I owe him dearly for his honesty.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Unless the roller is actually broken/cracked then usually what happens is the hole in the roller where the shaft runs gets gunked up and keeps the roller from rolling. Then the sprung hinge part that rides on the roller slides across it, creating the noise.

I've found using something like brake parts cleaner in that area to get it cleaned up so it's rolling freely again, then using a dry lubricant on the shaft only (not on the roller). Also I'll use a pry bar or large screwdriver to press against that notched sprung part to hold it slightly off the roller so I can spin the roller with my fingers to help get the gunk out and the roller freed up.

EDIT TO ADD PIC
Here's a pic of how I use a large screwdriver to take the spring pressure off the roller to be able to roll it manually with the fingers of my other hand. Pushing screwdriver handle outward toward door will press the detent plate away from the roller.

 

[pwtr02ss]

I’ve heard the same as above, however, knock on wood, when I arranged to have the body shop guy replace a horribly noisy pass door hinge, he didn’t do it. He sprayed it with one of those super penetrating lubes.

I tried oil & WD40 in the past. The body shop was right. After over a year, the door is buttery smooth, quiet and cured. I’m glad I was wrong about my assumption. I lived with that noisy hinge for over a year and I owe him dearly for his honesty.

I sprayed mine down with chain lube and it's been quiet ever since.

 

[novemberr]

Thank you all for the advice. My roller does not rotate any more. The pin is kind of bend so the roller sticks.
I will try to push spring away and try to rotate the roller. Appreciate your kind help.

 

[petethepug]

Mine looked like the roller was deformed and refused to move. After cycling it for a week or two with the shops lube I actually forgot how bad it was. It also turned out the roller was coated with rust and completely salvageable.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Most important part is don't lube the outside of the roller. You want it to roll when the spring loaded notched door side piece contacts it. If the outside is lubed it will just make the notched piece slide across it and start making noise.

 

[89Suburban]

I’ve had much better luck with full hinge replacement than with the replacement pins and rollers.

You have done the hinges? Mine need the lower replaced. Any advice on the process?

 

[gooffeyguy]

You have done the hinges? Mine need the lower replaced. Any advice on the process?

First off, I'd buy a can of duplicolor spray touch-up paint in a close color of your paint and paint the replacement hinges unless you want them to really stand out or don't really care.

 

[wjburken]

You have done the hinges? Mine need the lower replaced. Any advice on the process?

Yes. I’ve done them on all of our NNBS vehicles.

It’s pretty straightforward. I use a Jack with a rag or towel to support the outer edge of the door when the hinge is removed. Having a second pair of hands is helpful as well, but not required. I’ve done it solo and with assistance.

It’s kind of tricky finagling a socket or wrench to the various bolts. I use a 1/4” drive socket with various lengths of extensions and a ratcheting swivel box wrench.

When the new hinge is on, I’d snug up a couple of the bolts and check for alignment and adjust as necessary. Once you’re good there, tighten them all up.

 

[intheburbs]

Hit it with penetrating oil - liquid wrench, PB blaster, etc - several times, over several days. I have 2 trucks, and all 8 original rollers still spin freely.

When one starts to freeze up, I hit it again and that's good for another few months to a year.

Two things I've noticed that contribute heavily to rapid seizing of the roller - being parked outside and frequency of use.

 

[novemberr]

I appreciate the advice from you guys.
I sprayed wd40 at the roller and used pry bar to force the roller to rotate with door open/close.
It worked amazingly and magically. Thank you very much.

 

[89Suburban]

The new unpainted hinge works beautiful btw

 

[992dr]

Random question. A couple of my doors are rattling at low speeds going over bumps.
Does this have anything to do with the pin/roller/hinge or more with the striker?
&
I replaced my pin in my drivers door once and now the new one (now old because it's been a while) makes so much noise and the bushing is gouged so it wont roll. Should I replace the pin again or replace the hinge? I have it down to a science replacing them haha.

 

[OR VietVet]

The rattle could be the striker area but also could be because of the hinge pins/bushings. How old is the last set?

 

[992dr]

I've only replaced the drivers, all the rest I believe are original.
It's been a couple of years, I guess. The bushing is definitely all jacked up. I should've lubricated inside the bushing instead of outside of it.

 

[OR VietVet]

I had a door rattle and found an attachment spot inside the door for the regulator has a loose nut/bolt.

 

[992dr]

I'll have to check them out this week.
I'll post back what I find out.

Thanks for the help