Where to mount resistors for LED taillight bulbs?

[66 Galaxie]

Where are people mounting resistors for LED taillight bulbs on '21-'22 Tahoes and Suburbans?

 

[Chad G 1979]

I have just used zip ties to have them float in the air on my tahoe. I made sure to keep the resistors from touching thw wiring harnesses as well. I have had no issues with the lights or any rattles from them.

 

[66 Galaxie]

Thanks. I may try that but was thinking of using self tapping screws to attach them to the body if I can find a good spot.

Just waiting for the temps to get at least to the mid 20s before working on it. Hoping that way plastic parts aren’t too brittle.

 

[CASTLEDFW15]

I am about to tackle this project for the third time on my 23 Premier…

Clarification…..not third try on same 23…..2021 Premier and 22 Z71 were the other two.

I think I found the right application and mounting point on the 22.


Rather than having the resistors hang loose like the 21. I made a mounting plate.

If you look when the lens assembly is removed you should see a small little flat spot a touch over 1/2 way up.

I cut about a flat piece of aluminum….3X3 or 4X4 sound familiar for the dimensions.

Whatever size it is cut four pieces. You probably wouldn’t be wrong to cut just a touch over the dimensions and use a Dremel tool to make a “relief cut” in the corners and fold over.

I also used two pieces of wood….anything will do, I used simple pre cut pieces from Amazon.

Glue the two pieces of wood together first.

After the two pieces of wood dry, repeat same step to the aluminum pieces to each side of the wood.

The wood is basically a spacer for the resistor screws.

When the mounting plate is assembled, you can drill the pilot holes for the resistors. I believe I did I did a slightly offset for the center resistor….( outer and inner use the top of the bracket and the middle aligns with the bottom)

Not done yet….

Take 24 flat washers…….

Take two for each resistor mounting screw location. Insert between the mounting bracket and the resistor……stay with me, it will come obvious in a few steps.

When all the resistors are mounted to the mounting plate (s). Take a piece of Velcro and mount as normal. Doesn’t matter what side goes against the mounting plate.

You probably figured out the area to mount the other side of the Velcro.


Back to the washers….

I wanted to get some protection against the heat of the LED’s and resistors. Here’s how……I used a custom cut piece of aluminum foil to wrap around the resistors. This should hold the heat of the resistors in and prevent melting of the wires. The aluminum foil wrap should also prevent melting of the lens assembly.

The mounting plate with Velcro makes it easy to remove for whatever reason…usually trade in. Just cut the resistor wires at the splice point and move on.

I will try to be more conscientious about getting in progress photos this time.

Trust me with the Cold Snap the project would not be done for a few days even if all items were on property!

 

[66 Galaxie]

Thanks for the ideas.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

 

[SCiesie154]

I am curious to know why we would be mounting resistor panels in new vehicles for led lights?

 

[Fast_AT4]

This thread needs pics... @CASTLEDFW15

 

[66 Galaxie]

Tahoes and Suburbans do not come with LED bulbs in the taillights for Brake, Turn or reverse. When switching the stock incandescent/filament bulb to LED you typically get error codes due to the electrical draw being less than stock so the system thinks there is a bulb out. The addition of appropriate sized resistor(s) creates the extra electrical draw to mimic the current used by the stock incandescent/filament bulb and not trigger a bulb out error code.

Here is a picture of one mounted for the right backup light before being connected.

 

[DuraYuk]

Tahoes and Suburbans do not come with LED bulbs in the taillights for Brake, Turn or reverse. When switching the stock incandescent/filament bulb to LED you typically get error codes due to the electrical draw being less than stock so the system thinks there is a bulb out. The addition of appropriate sized resistor(s) creates the extra electrical draw to mimic the current used by the stock incandescent/filament bulb and not trigger a bulb out error code.

Here is a picture of one mounted for the right backup light before being connected.

View attachment 388076

Ouch. Drilling into the body like that hurts to see. To each their own I suppose...

 

[H1Chester]

Use the search. There is another tread where someone stuck the resistors behind where the lights mount. It was a white Tahoe.

 

[CASTLEDFW15]

I am getting the equipment in order and all equipment should be here in the next few days.

 

[CASTLEDFW15]

This is some file photos from the last time I did the LED conversion. These are in progress photos not the final product. These should be able to at least visualize the concept. When the resistors are installed to the mounting plate then it can be trimmed a bit more. When the mounting plate is in its final design, then the Velcro is attached. The other end of the Velcro is mounted to the frame in the approximate final spot. The Velcro idea maintains the mounting point but allows for simple removal and cutting of the resistor wires without interfering with the power and grounding wires of the bulb circuit.

Also not the washers between the resistor and plate. That’s your room for air circulation and to thread some Aluminum foil around the resistor to hold the heat on the resistor and prevent melting of the plastic trim, wire insulation etc….since the resistor doesn’t actually touch the plate in theory the heat from resistor shouldn’t transfer to the plate etc…..

Sorry the bonus photo was the 22” Gloss Black wheels with Michelin Defender’s

 

[Fless]

That last pic -- seems like the foil around the heat sink would defeat the purpose.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

On my '07, I did not receive any error lights on the dashboard, when I converted the truck to all LEDs. I do have hyperflash with the directionals, but I believe that the fast flash attracts more attention from other motorists, and after all, that is the purpose of the directional signals in the first place.

So, no resistors on my truck.

 

[CASTLEDFW15]

Fless,

You are nt the only one to consider the heat sink angle. U had them in there for seven months with no issues. The other thought although not verified by electrical engineers with certified calibrated test equipment…..Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI).

After the installation I had no hyper flash, no CANBUS errors, perfectly timed and sequenced turn brake and back up light application. The model bulb I used was ALLA 7440/7443/T921 bulbs. Brake and Reverse lights were a three flash then solid bulbs. Turn signals were Amber LED but didnt have to worry about the three flash first.

With almost a year of the LED upgrade spread across two different vehicles I only had the CANBUS Error. The typical Resistor heated up during extended traffic delays. The CANBUS error was turn signal related. After the turn was made and resistor cooled off no further issues.

I admit I might have gone a bit overkill on the Aluminum foil but think about this. If the bulbs are installed correctly, resistors are wired correctly and mounting plate is oriented correctly….…..The lens and bulbs should never have to be removed again. This area for the most part is not a common inspection item. Unless the lens assembly is removed for some other reason then this is a set and forget item.

If the lens assembly does have to be removed for whatever reason, then probably a good as time as any to check the areas for melting, (plastic lens assembly, wiring etc…)

 

[CASTLEDFW15]

This is one quick photo to show the overview of my mounting plate. The 4X4 pieces of wood might need to be trimmed but that’s what wood cutoff wheels for the Dremel Tool are for. After that splicr the wires into the bulb connectors. It really doesn’t matter which wire is where as long as the Positive and Negative wires are spliced into correctly.