Wheel bearing recommendation

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Dustin Jackson

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We don’t need another wheel bearing thread but this sections been dead and it’s fun talking with yall.

Recently the Tahoes been riding very strangely like not as predictable in the steering and slightly shaky.

I got home jacked up each front control arm and inspected the wheels. There seemed to be some sort of play in the passenger front wheel when trying to move it and seemed to produce a thud. Both wheels had some left and right wiggle but I think that’s just give in the steering.

When spinning the passenger wheel it seems to produce a bit of a hum and scrape but it’s hard to tell if it’s just the rubber from the CV axle and the router slightly rubbing the pads.

I’m going to take it for a second opinion so I need to budget out some parts.

The current hubs are some Moog premiums from about 40k miles ago so I don’t think I’ll use these again.

Are there any reasonably priced hubs that are worth getting or should I bite the bullet and get Kryptonite hubs or something else?

Side note, really not pleased with the quality of parts these days. 1 year old PCV hose on my 94 k1500 already turned to dust, 2 year old Tahoe CV axle boots torn slinging grease, Moog premium tie rod end Boots torn already. Almost want to start using junk yard parts if it means I’ll get more time out of them
 
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Dustin Jackson

Dustin Jackson

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I suppose it’s worth going with those since they are only about $160 vs the $260 of the kryptonite I just don’t want to have to do this again in 3 years. How long are peoples Timkens lasting ?
 

Doubeleive

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I don't think I have worn a timken out, when I replaced mine on the denali I used oem which I think were stamped skf
you figure "normally" oem last's around 160k (average) if you replace them 1 time that's 320k which most people get rid of them before then
pretty sure I used timken on my 00 and only did them once and sold it at 324k, replaced one side on my 03 used a timken I think and that was years ago and my sister still drives it, no issue's that she has mentioned and it has like 285k on it at least.
the timken's should have a 3 year warranty if you buy them from somewhere legit.
 

Trey Hardy

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We don’t need another wheel bearing thread but this sections been dead and it’s fun talking with yall.

Recently the Tahoes been riding very strangely like not as predictable in the steering and slightly shaky.

I got home jacked up each front control arm and inspected the wheels. There seemed to be some sort of play in the passenger front wheel when trying to move it and seemed to produce a thud. Both wheels had some left and right wiggle but I think that’s just give in the steering.

When spinning the passenger wheel it seems to produce a bit of a hum and scrape but it’s hard to tell if it’s just the rubber from the CV axle and the router slightly rubbing the pads.

I’m going to take it for a second opinion so I need to budget out some parts.

The current hubs are some Moog premiums from about 40k miles ago so I don’t think I’ll use these again.

Are there any reasonably priced hubs that are worth getting or should I bite the bullet and get Kryptonite hubs or something else?

Side note, really not pleased with the quality of parts these days. 1 year old PCV hose on my 94 k1500 already turned to dust, 2 year old Tahoe CV axle boots torn slinging grease, Moog premium tie rod end Boots torn already. Almost want to start using junk yard parts if it means I’ll get more time out of them
I’ve put over 100,000 miles on my kryptonite wheel hubs with no isssues and I run 24x14s with 35/15.50s and wheel spacers
Kryptonite is the way to go
Just got one from Rudy’s diesel the other day for my sister but they went up in price from when I first got mine a couple years back I think it was 260$ but worth it not to have to mess with it anymore and if you do atleast it’s under a lifetime warranty!
 
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Dustin Jackson

Dustin Jackson

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Thanks everyone, this morning I installed new Timken hubs in both sides. The old passenger side was grinding but the driver side was still good.

Pain in the butt with my setup I had to undo the upper ball joint so that I could get my CV axles out so that I could reach the wheel bearing bolts. And then ended up rounding the head on the last wheel bearing bolt and had to take a trip to the dealer and spend $30 on a new wheel bearing bolt.
 
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