What is the best intake to buy looking for a cold air box intake for my 2010 Lt Tahoe 4x4

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TxVet33

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That's an HAI system, HOT Air Intake.

Have you measured inlet air temps while idling and at speed?
Not gonna argue semantics Sir. Stay safe.
 

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j91z28d1

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Not gonna argue semantics Sir. Stay safe.


what he's saying is you're replacing a well made stock intake that seals off under hood heat and pulls air from a cooler location, the fender. with a aftermarket air intake while having a slightly better flowing air filters that is much worse at filtering dirt, almost all of them do not seal off the air from under the hood. so while marketing calls them cold air intakes, they are actually hot air intakes, decreasing performance on a daily driver because intake Temps go up and ecm pulls timing based on intake air Temps.

all the dyno runs you see arw done on a cold engine with the hood open and a fan blowing on the vehicle. in the real world you most likely get a slower truck, worse filtering with a side effect of intake noise that most people think means it's faster.

it is possible to improve on the oem design, but most aftermarket setups do not. and then you gotta factory in that they build the airbox for a 6.2L making 400hp and it's running on a 300hp 5.3. there's probably not a lot of hp left on the table, even if you pull the filter off and ran open intake.
 

TxVet33

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what he's saying is you're replacing a well made stock intake that seals off under hood heat and pulls air from a cooler location, the fender. with a aftermarket air intake while having a slightly better flowing air filters that is much worse at filtering dirt, almost all of them do not seal off the air from under the hood. so while marketing calls them cold air intakes, they are actually hot air intakes, decreasing performance on a daily driver because intake Temps go up and ecm pulls timing based on intake air Temps.

all the dyno runs you see arw done on a cold engine with the hood open and a fan blowing on the vehicle. in the real world you most likely get a slower truck, worse filtering with a side effect of intake noise that most people think means it's faster.

it is possible to improve on the oem design, but most aftermarket setups do not. and then you gotta factory in that they build the airbox for a 6.2L making 400hp and it's running on a 300hp 5.3. there's probably not a lot of hp left on the table, even if you pull the filter off and ran open intake.
Look at pix. It gets the same air the OEM did from the same place.
 

TxVet33

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what he's saying is you're replacing a well made stock intake that seals off under hood heat and pulls air from a cooler location, the fender. with a aftermarket air intake while having a slightly better flowing air filters that is much worse at filtering dirt, almost all of them do not seal off the air from under the hood. so while marketing calls them cold air intakes, they are actually hot air intakes, decreasing performance on a daily driver because intake Temps go up and ecm pulls timing based on intake air Temps.

all the dyno runs you see arw done on a cold engine with the hood open and a fan blowing on the vehicle. in the real world you most likely get a slower truck, worse filtering with a side effect of intake noise that most people think means it's faster.

it is possible to improve on the oem design, but most aftermarket setups do not. and then you gotta factory in that they build the airbox for a 6.2L making 400hp and it's running on a 300hp 5.3. there's probably not a lot of hp left on the table, even if you pull the filter off and ran open intake.
Y’all forget I said anything. Stay safe
 

TxVet33

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Hey John, It gets air from the same place and more as it is not sealed off from the engine bay air. That's all we're saying.
got it
Like I said, you guys are really smarter than me! I mean that Sincerely! I was just answering the Question asked by esemaico91. Stay safe out there gents/Ladies!
 

Joseph Garcia

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Really looking to build up the 5.3 a bit looking to add long tube headers a cam and xpipes with a tune eventually just got the truck to 100% health no issues at all atm
As you can see, this topic has different opinions from different users, some positive and some negative. If you like it, and can afford it, then go for it, and see what you think after installation.

BUT, consider one thing first. With a price of $350+, you are already more than halfway to the cost of a @BlackBearPerf remote tune for your motor AND transmission. And, I will personally guarantee that you WILL feel a significant difference in the truck's performance with a Black Bear Performance tune. And, for a small fee, you can have this tune modified at any time in the future by Black Bear Performance, when you add items such as long tube headers and cams, etc., that actually make a noticeable difference in performance.

That's the way that you slowly, but positively, put together an integrated plan to increase the performance of your truck. Who knows, you may want to add a supercharger to your truck in a few years, like I did.

I wish you the best of outcomes in whatever final decisions that you make.
 
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Joseph Garcia

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Here's the answer.....
( And, some day, I'll give Blackbear a call )
Yes! And, before I installed the supercharger, I had the same Airaid MIT tube, which eliminated all the noise reduction spaghetti that the stock intake had between the motor and the air cleaner, and it cleaned up the appearance of the motor (IMO).
 

Marky Dissod

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... before I installed the supercharger, I had the same Airaid MIT tube, which eliminated all the noise reduction spaghetti that the stock intake had between the motor and the air cleaner, and it cleaned up the appearance of the motor.
If you've a talent for 'welding' plastic, you can remove the GM OE intake's 'mufflers', close their holes, and voila, you just spent a lot less than $350.
 

Charlie207

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If you've a talent for 'welding' plastic, you can remove the GM OE intake's 'mufflers', close their holes, and voila, you just spent a lot less than $350.
Just need a 55W or higher soldering iron, or whatever gets up to 800F, so it can easily/quickly melt the nylon or PA66/GF material they use without lingering and burning.
 

dkad260

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Nope. Put oil, gas and grandchildren in it and go down the road.
I don't know off hand what the threshold is, but around 115 deg IAT, the PCM reduces ignition timing to compensate for the lower air density. The OE air intake is very well designed.

The "Green Filter" might be a consideration which has good flow and very good filtration. I hear what you're saying about the noise and it's personal preference....but in very dusty conditions, I don't know of any oiled filters that don't leave a film of fine dust in the intake tube. Great for drag racing, but IME not so much for keeping fine particles out of the engine.

Just my $.02
 

Charlie207

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I don't know off hand what the threshold is, but around 115 deg IAT, the PCM reduces ignition timing to compensate for the lower air density. The OE air intake is very well designed.

The "Green Filter" might be a consideration which has good flow and very good filtration. I hear what you're saying about the noise and it's personal preference....but in very dusty conditions, I don't know of any oiled filters that don't leave a film of fine dust in the intake tube. Great for drag racing, but IME not so much for keeping fine particles out of the engine.

Just my $.02
I've just started buying the thicker AC Delco air-filter.
 

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